[Guide] DC-DC Charger (for leisure battery) -- How I Done It --

With the Renogy DCC50S, when I connect my solar suitcase, would I bypass the MPPT attached to the solar panel?
Yes. You need to connect the suitcase panels direct to the dcc50s, and not use the suitcase controller.

Most people install a quick disconect under the seat for this purpose.... So you can add in panels as needed when camping or other.
 
Yes. You need to connect the suitcase panels direct to the dcc50s, and not use the suitcase controller.

Most people install a quick disconect under the seat for this purpose.... So you can add in panels as needed when camping or other.
Yes, I did this, this afternoon. I need to double check I have got the cables the right way around before connecting though.
 
Yes, I did this, this afternoon. I need to double check I have got the cables the right war around before connecting though.
Panel POS to the controller solar input.

Panel NEG to body ground, 0v point, either chassis, battery or dc-DC neg connection.

Use a multimeter to check polarity from the panel in day light.
 
Panel POS to the controller solar input.

Panel NEG to body ground, 0v point, either chassis, battery or dc-DC neg connection.

Use a multimeter to check polarity from the panel in day light.
Oh, I know this. But I fed the cables out and from memory of which connector was the live, cut that in isolation, popped on a fuse and then the Anderson crimps. Then popped them into the connector. Then cut and crimped the neutral and popped them into the connector. I know I have the right cables on the right connections to the DC to DC charger, I'm just unsure if I put the fuse on the right cable to the PV. It appears easy enough to remove the Anderson terminals if I haven't put the correct ones in the pos & neg.

Nipped out to the garage to ensure the red cable from the PV is the opposite to the fused cable end in the van.
 
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Simple answer, no. You’re asking too much of a 110Ah lead acid battery. For a start, regardless of the charger, you won’t put 120A into a 110Ah battery. The battery simply won’t accept it. If you upped the charging voltage to force 120A (the Ctek won’t) into the battery, you’ll boil it dry in a very short time. A 110ah battery would take around 15-20 amps max.

I got this answer from Cteck support:

"Thank you for contacting CTEK!
D250SE and Smartpass will charge your AGM battery in a smart way"

I guess "smart" meaning it will not "boil" the battery.

I presume, if i am useing D250SE and 120S together I will get the power straight from car alternator to the consumers (inverter) and charging of the leisure battery will happen at maximum possible amps.
 
Hi guys ,
Installing my Renogy 30a dc - dc
Do I need to run a negative to the starter battery or can I just use the negative on the leisure battery?
 
Hi guys ,
Installing my Renogy 30a dc - dc
Do I need to run a negative to the starter battery or can I just use the negative on the leisure battery?
Hi @Saffa365 you don’t run a negative to starter battery on T6.1 you run the negative from the Dc to Dc charger to an earth point. I have a Sterling B to B fitted by a professional and they ran a negative to the starter battery but info I got off the forum said to run the negative to an earth point which mine now does under the drivers seat.

John
 
Durite DC-DC charger - That looks suspiciously like a REDARC BCDC1240D?

including the same 32v VOC and wire connection fly leads - - hmmmm?



i think they are OEM the Redarc. . . either way it looks great, and the Redarc is an awesome charger





1676046897445.png



1676046669768.png



+++++++++++++


This new 40A charger from Durite featured dual inputs, combining both alternator and solar charging into an efficient, compact and rugged unit. It works with 12V or 24V alternator systems (both standard and 'smart' alternator types) to provide a suitable 12V, 3-stage charging profile for all lead-acid batteries and LiFePO4 batteries. Installation is straightforward with no configuration required - simply select your battery type and you're ready to go (smart alternators require an ignition feed) - and the charger is fully automatic in operation.

The in-built solar controller can convert up to 400W of solar power and uses Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) technology to get the best possible performance from your panel(s). A series of LEDs indicates the active charging source, the charge status and enables fault-finding, and there are multiple protection features built-in including over-voltage at input/output, under-voltage and high temperature. Designed for harsh environments and with an IP66 protection rating, this charger features an aluminium body and fan-less cooling and can work in temperatures up to 80°C (although it is recommended to install away from heat sources to maintain full charge output).

The charger is supplied with splice connectors and heat-shrink sleeving, should you need to extend the cables, and should be installed as close to the auxiliary/leisure battery as possible to minimise the effects of voltage drop on the charger output.

Features

  • DC-DC charging and MPPT solar charging combined
  • Can be used with standard and 'smart' alternators (Euro 5 / 6)
  • Suitable for 12V or 24V alternators (auto-detection)
  • 12V charging profile
  • 40W maximum continuous charge current
  • Max. solar open circuit voltage of 32V DC (N.B. do not exceed)
  • Suits all battery types including LiFePO4
  • Supports up to 400W of solar power
  • Multiple protection features
  • Lithium battery BMS 'wake-up' function
  • Low standby current (<15mA)
  • 95% efficiency
  • Plug & Play installation (requires ignition feed for smart alternators)
  • Robust construction for tough operating environments
  • IP66 protection
Important - only to be used with solar panels that have an open-circuit voltage (Voc) of 32V or less. Greater voltages may damage the unit and will void the warranty.
 
Durite DC-DC charger - That looks suspiciously like a REDARC BCDC1240D?

including the same 32v VOC and wire connection fly leads - - hmmmm?



i think they are OEM the Redarc. . . either way it looks great, and the Redarc is an awesome charger





View attachment 187758



View attachment 187755



+++++++++++++


This new 40A charger from Durite featured dual inputs, combining both alternator and solar charging into an efficient, compact and rugged unit. It works with 12V or 24V alternator systems (both standard and 'smart' alternator types) to provide a suitable 12V, 3-stage charging profile for all lead-acid batteries and LiFePO4 batteries. Installation is straightforward with no configuration required - simply select your battery type and you're ready to go (smart alternators require an ignition feed) - and the charger is fully automatic in operation.

The in-built solar controller can convert up to 400W of solar power and uses Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) technology to get the best possible performance from your panel(s). A series of LEDs indicates the active charging source, the charge status and enables fault-finding, and there are multiple protection features built-in including over-voltage at input/output, under-voltage and high temperature. Designed for harsh environments and with an IP66 protection rating, this charger features an aluminium body and fan-less cooling and can work in temperatures up to 80°C (although it is recommended to install away from heat sources to maintain full charge output).

The charger is supplied with splice connectors and heat-shrink sleeving, should you need to extend the cables, and should be installed as close to the auxiliary/leisure battery as possible to minimise the effects of voltage drop on the charger output.

Features

  • DC-DC charging and MPPT solar charging combined
  • Can be used with standard and 'smart' alternators (Euro 5 / 6)
  • Suitable for 12V or 24V alternators (auto-detection)
  • 12V charging profile
  • 40W maximum continuous charge current
  • Max. solar open circuit voltage of 32V DC (N.B. do not exceed)
  • Suits all battery types including LiFePO4
  • Supports up to 400W of solar power
  • Multiple protection features
  • Lithium battery BMS 'wake-up' function
  • Low standby current (<15mA)
  • 95% efficiency
  • Plug & Play installation (requires ignition feed for smart alternators)
  • Robust construction for tough operating environments
  • IP66 protection
Important - only to be used with solar panels that have an open-circuit voltage (Voc) of 32V or less. Greater voltages may damage the unit and will void the warranty.
Is it possible to connect a smart charger to this so that it charges my starter battery or would I have to run cables back to the battery?.
I was then going to plug the charger in as I have a socket behind the drivers seat so then when I plug the van into hook up it will charges the main battery.
Thanks
 
Is it possible to connect a smart charger to this so that it charges my starter battery or would I have to run cables back to the battery?.
I was then going to plug the charger in as I have a socket behind the drivers seat so then when I plug the van into hook up it will charges the main battery.
Thanks
see here about chargers. . .

Tip: as you say get a smart charger, plug into the 240v when on hook up, then connect to starter battery via clips, quick disconnect, obd2 port, 12v dash socket etc
 
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part4 DC-DC install

What if i dont have the factory install kit/wires ?


This is where thing can get tricky . . . . . you need to install all the new cabling and fuses etc yourself . . . .

now luckily there some kits available that have all you need.

*****************

here is an example from @travelvolts https://www.travelvolts.net

Extra long wiring kit for all DC-DC chargers. Has enough cable to reach to the rear of the van. Includes all fuses, connectors etc. All lugs pre crimped.

View attachment 52407

****************************************

and here from Splitcharge: Split Charge Kits, Systems, Components & Tools | SplitCharge.co.uk

REDARC BV1240D - B2B Charger 40 Amp - Full Installation Kit | SplitCharge.co.uk

View attachment 52408
*****************************************


There are various guides on what goes where and how, but basically you need to.

fit a new Aux battery,tray,hold down kit.
run new HD fused battery cable from starter battery to Aux battery to feed the DC-DC
run a new HD fused cable from the DC-DC to the Aux battery
run a new HD ground cable from the DC-DC to ground
run a new HD ground cable from the Aux battery to ground
run a new ignition feed cable from the center fuse box to the DC-DC



****************************************


TravelVolts has a great guide here> "Redarc 1240D DC-DC charger."

https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/d959f6_4e84b63f4383484ea1097894b235b0fe.pdf

.

CTEK DUAL 250/ 250SA /250SE DC-DC charger. > https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/d959f6_3ed319f968954720a73c38807b437278.pdf

.

Victron DC-DC >
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/d959f6_f3fd86ccf8344d99976e126b68df54ef.pdf

.

ABLEMAIL ABMC12-12-30 and AMS12-12-30 DC-DC chargers.

https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/d959f6_25939caa940f48ae9bf7bd23ef992976.pdf

.

*****************************************************************************

This was the setup i went with:

View attachment 52410

i removed the factory relay, fuse and fuse holders:

View attachment 52411

and cut the ends off and replaced with MIDI style fuses and crimp ends:

View attachment 52413

View attachment 52412

.

some extra wires went in for some other bits:
View attachment 52414

.

A new HD ground cable was fitted to the seat base bolt, (for the DC-DC charger)
The existing feed for the OEM relay was used as the ignition trigger for the new DC-DC.

A new MIDI style fuse box was fitted:

View attachment 52415


which fits down the side of the AUX battery:

View attachment 52416

and with the rubber battery cover refitted the final outcome looks like this:

View attachment 52417

more battery testing . . . . .

View attachment 52418

and we end up with a very happy Aux battery that is 100% fully charged via the DC-DC, that is totally isolated from the front starter battery.

View attachment 52419


.


That was all stage 1,2,3.

were now at stage 4 with is the Lifepo4 Lithium upgrade . . . . that will entail replacing this DC-DC with one more suited to Lifepo4 charging and new Lifepo4 battery's with associated LBD & LTD etc.




******************************************************************************

You can also find out more info over here>


.
Ignition Live Under Passenger Seat - How Its Done -
.
Installing 12v Socket /s - How Its Done -
.
12v Igntn Feed + 5xusb Charging From Ign Feed - Today's Install
.
12v Aux Feed + 5xusb Charging From Aux Battery - Today's Install
.
Stop/start...regen...smart Alternator... Dc-dc Charger For Leisure Battery Or Not?
.



and other related info here>


Mobile Solar Panels ? . . . - How I Did It -
.
What Solar Panel & Controller ?
.
Solar Panel Cutting Hole In Roof !!!
.
Battery Chargers - How I Did It -
.
Which Jump Starter?
.
Lithium Lifepo4 12v Batteries - - - Time For An Upgrade ? - - -
.


.









.
Hi Dell,
Spot on, Dcdc charger is the way to go so I'm into but have 1 question.
What is the output from the alternator on 2016 T6?
I need to size the cable from the alternator/starter battery to my 30A dcdc charger. Mine is at the back of the van so around a 7m cable run which will be under the chassis.
Thanks again for a great article.
 
Hi Dell,
Spot on, Dcdc charger is the way to go so I'm into but have 1 question.
What is the output from the alternator on 2016 T6?
I need to size the cable from the alternator/starter battery to my 30A dcdc charger. Mine is at the back of the van so around a 7m cable run which will be under the chassis.
Thanks again for a great article.
the standard alternator is 140A,

the uprated factory unit is 180A.


as for cable size . . . this is what victron recomend for a 30A charger.





.

16mm2 for 5-10m


1682845864633.png


++++



see more here:








++++
 
I am currently running a 1200w induction hob off a 230Ah lithium battery - works great but obviously sucks a bit of power. i have a Ctek250se 25A dcdc and 160 w of solar on the roof. i want to get a bit more charging amps into the L battery. recently discovered you can put 2 DCDC chargers together to get say 50A, this should wk ok as i think you have said alternator is putting out 140A.
so if i put say 2 x ctek 250se's together how would i connect these togerther? and would the solar controllers just double up as well? i realise they would be subject to the wattage of the panel/s
or is there a better option??

Thanks
 
Your ctek is 25A max and split with solar... so you feed cables from the engine bay will prob be to small to handle two d260se's.

That would mean running a second new cable set to feed the second charger.

If that's the case then you will better off upgrading your DC-DC charger to say a Renogy 50A or 60A unit..

With new cable feeds. Then run your solar on a seperate mppt controller. Example as a Victron 100/20. That way you can use all the engine charge power, plus all the solar power too .... and with the Victron you can add in another 200w mobile solar panel to get you 360w pv charging.

That's what I would do.
 
If you want to double up dc-dc chargers, you just run them all in parallel along with all other chargers, ie EHU, and solar etc.

Just make sure all power cables are suitable and correctly fused.

They will all run indipentantly at there own pace, Victron will link together with there local BT connection.
 
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