[Guide] Battery Maintainer (for Starter battery) -- How I Done It --

Dellmassive

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[Guide] Battery Maintainer (for Starter battery) -- How I Done It --

Right so its that time of year again . . . . . . . . Winter & (Lockdown 2020)

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The van might be layed up not being used, which will lead to a flat battery in around 3 weeks.

The cold weather doesn't help the battery's either.



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This Thread is about using "what you have" to "back charge" the starter battery...

lets look at some options. . . . . . . .

1# Connect a 240v/EHU charger to the starter battery and leave it connected, that's fine if you have a drive way etc, have a look for the quick disconnects that make things a bit easyier.


more on that here: Battery Chargers - How I Did It -


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2# What about mobile solar . . . . . ? well that possible, though the solar yield during winter time is very low, the normal 50w dash panel may generate enough mA to counter act the drop in charge over time. The mobile solar needs to be connected to the middle dash socket so it connects to the starter battery . . . . . or just hard wire it to the starter battery . . . either way will work. in summer time 50w or up is enough, in winter time you may need 100w or more.


More on that here: [Guide] Mobile Solar Panels ? . . . - How I Did It -



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3# What about my DC-DC charger (with attached solar on the dc-dc charger) ? . . . .

well some DC-DC chargers ( Like the Renogy & Ctek D250) WILL "reverse charge" the starter battery, but there is a caveat . . . it only works by taking power from a solar panel, it will charge the AUX battery first, then its only a small charge back to the starter battery . . . . but it does work . . . . . . if you got enough solar panels (for the time of year)

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4# What about DC-DC and Separate solar? . . . . . . . .

This is an interesting one. . . . . Most people have a DC-DC that charges the AUX battery when the engine is running . . .

and a solar system connected to the AUX battery for when static or in fact at any other time there is enough solar about. . . .

in this configuration, with the van static for a long time the start will run flat . . . but there is any easy fix.

If the Solar was re-connected to the starter battery (instead of the AUX battery)

And there was enough solar to generate a charge . . . . . . . that starter battery will be charged, then at some point when the starter battery voltage was high enough, The DC-DC charger would kick in and start to charge the AUX . . . . . NET effect is that the one solar setup can charge both battery's (Solar power dependent and yes the DC-DC will cycle on/off as the starter battery voltage rises & falls.

i called it "reverse charge" or "auto VSR"

more on this can be seen here: [Guide] DC-DC Charger (for leisure battery) -- How I Done It --


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5# what else . . . . ?

well what about "KISS" - (Keep it simple stupid)

what about a small black box that connects the batteries together? . . . . . so as the AUX battery charges up, it trickle charges the Starter battery?

That way you can leave your solar alone if its connected to the AUX battery.

and you can leave your 240/EHU charger connected to the AUX battery too.


The Basic unit is the Diode/Resister unit, heres mine, with the teardown.

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more on that here : [Guide] DC-DC Charger (for leisure battery) -- How I Done It --



you just connect the two batteries to it and it will "trickle charge" power from the AUX battery back over to the Starter . . its a dumb unit with no smarts . . . .

its just a diode to control the direction of power flow and a resistor to limit the power flow.




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What about a simple black-box-with-smarts?

well, this is where ABLEMAIL ELECTRONICS comes into play,

They have come up with a great little magic box that will solve your problems.

It's called an AMT12-2 Battery to Battery Trickle charger.




Again you just connect the two batteries (plus a ground) and the black box will trickle charge your starter batterys,

its small in size,
its got M6 bolts/nuts for the battery connection.
less than 2mA standby draw,
up to 4A charge rate (5sec pulse every 15sec),
ignition overide input,
built in protection,
Its Programmable too . . .


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.............

AMT12-2 Trickle Charger charges Vehicle Battery from Leisure Battery with Solar Charger /Mains Hookup

tricklecharger.jpg
The AMT12-2 has many names Trickle Charger, Battery Maintainer, Battery Saver, Reverse Charger, Top Up Charger, Battery Equaliser, but its purpose is to keep a Source / Vehicle Battery charged & protected from damage during prolonged periods of Vehicle, Boat & Motorhome inactivity or storage. The charger feeds a low current into the Source Battery to compensate for self discharge, alarm & tracker loads while ensuring the charge of the Auxuiliary / Leisure Battery is maintained. In the ideal scenario a Solar Charger or Mains Charger is attached to an Auxiliary / Leisure Battery to protect it from damage during the period of inactivity & the Trickle Charger draws a small current off to maintain the Vehicle / Source Battery.


The Trickle Charger also feeds charge from the Auxiliary Battery to the Vehicle Battery until they reach 11.5V & 11.7V repectively ensuring that both Batteries are kept as healthy as possible even if no Solar Charger or Main Charger is present.

The unit has 4 User selected programmes & so is suitable for use with any Auxiliairy Battery Charging System including a simple Voltage Sensing Relay & a Battery to Battery Charger.
It does not matter the Make or Type of Charger the AMT12-2 will Charge the Vehicle Battery from the Leisure Battery & the clever software means it is compatible with conventional Alternator Vehicles, the latest Stop / Start & Euro 5/6 & Regenerative Braking Technologies.

The unit has a low current draw of less than 2mA on a 12V system & so presents a very small discharge load to the Vehicle & Leisure Battery. At 1Ahr drain every 20 days the unit has negligible effect on the Battery Capacity & should will easily cover a winter storage period.

When a charging source, either a Mains Charger or a Solar Charger, is connected to the Auxiliary / Leisure Battery, the AMT12-2 Trickle Charger allows a maximum of 4A (Usually considerably less) to flow from the Leisure Battery to the Vehicle Battery thus ensuring the Leisure Battery is Charged first & the Vehicle Battery second.
The AMT12-2 works with all types of Lead Acid Batteries & Lithium Batteries, The Status Led gives feedback on the Trickle Charger Operation & State of Charge of the Vehicle Battery & Auxiliary Battery Conditions.

There is Ignition Override & Switch Enable to allow the user to externally control the charging if, for some reason, they wish to override the automatic settings.
The AMT12-2 Trickle Charger works on 12V & 24V Battery Systems, Automatically detecting whether it is connected to a 24V or 12V system. The compact potted plastic enclosure means it is easily fitted next to the Auxiliary Battery Charger & the 3 x M6 bolt connections, The Inbuilt Fuse Protection means the Installation is extremely quick & easy.
This product has been Developed by Ablemail as part of a Range & if this product does not meet your requirement, Please contact our Technical Department to see if we can meet your exact needs.

EMC:
Type approved to 72/245/EEC as last amended by 95/54/EC
Protection:
Automatic overload and over temperature protection with fully automatic reset
Spec Sheet:
application-pdf.png Trickle Charger Info
General Product Information:
The following files may also be useful:







here's mine . . . (charging my solar shed SLA bank from the Green Lithium AUX battery)

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TBC with more options as they present themselves. . .





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prt2

Remember the trick to this is Monitor, Monitor, Monitor.

Knowledge is power right !

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so having the knowledge about what your batteries are doing give you the power to deal with it and not end up with a flat battery monday morning . . . .

OR EVEN WORSE A FLAST BATTERY AT 4AM CAUSING THE CAR ALARM TO GO OFF AND ANOY THE NEIGHBOURS =[


more on battery monitoring here : Battery Monitoring -- How I Done It --


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if you find yourself in a pickle and need a jump start, bin those jump cables and get yourself a decent jump-pack and be self sufficient . . .

more on that here: Which Jump Starter?


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Good article @Dellmassive and well worth doing

Recently did something similar with a Battery Master after getting a flat starter battery after leaving for only a couple of weeks previously.
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Van has now been parked up for over 3 weeks (maybe 4 weeks) and showing 12.4v on the starter battery according to the reading on my plug in 12v adapter (which may not be entirely accurate). I've just been out to check after reading your article.
 
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prt2

Remember the trick to this is Monitor, Monitor, Monitor.

Knowledge is power right !

View attachment 93017

so having the knowledge about what your batteries are doing give you the power to deal with it and not end up with a flat battery monday morning . . . .

OR EVEN WORSE A FLAST BATTERY AT 4AM CAUSING THE CAR ALARM TO GO OFF AND ANOY THE NEIGHBOURS =[


more on battery monitoring here : Battery Monitoring -- How I Done It --


View attachment 93015



if you find yourself in a pickle and need a jump start, bin those jump cables and get yourself a decent jump-pack and be self sufficient . . .

more on that here: Which Jump Starter?


View attachment 93016

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Sounds good. I will definitely have to have a look at the AMT trickle charger.
 
Good article @Dellmassive and well worth doing

Recently did something similar with a Battery Master after getting a flat starter battery after leaving for only a couple of weeks previously.
View attachment 93019View attachment 93020View attachment 93021
Van has now been parked up for over 3 weeks (maybe 4 weeks) and showing 12.4v on the starter battery according to the reading on my plug in 12v adapter (which may not be entirely accurate). I've just been out to check after reading your article.


very nice.

i did look at the Battery Master , , , , BUT.

its limited to 1Amp and comes in a potted case (what are they hiding then?????) . . . . so i get the feeling its a glorified resitor diode unit.

i need to see inside one to be sure. . . . so basically very expensive Votronics unit, but im ready to be proved wrong when someone cracks one open.

The AMT12-2 Trickle Charger is a proper charger with smarts inside.

and I've had the full 4A charge, which is way better than any of the other options or units.



but for balance here is the Battery Master REV.3 20:


The Battery Master keeps your engine starter battery safely topped up by linking it to the leisure battery. Its automatic one-way action will pass a small trickle charge to the engine battery whenever its voltage becomes less than a defined level below that of the leisure battery, so that the engine battery is kept in the best condition for easy starting and a long service life.

The Battery Master will not allow any charge to flow in the other direction, from the engine battery to the leisure battery.

Battery Master addresses an issue which is inherent in the way that modern motorhomes are often equipped and used: the leisure battery gets a lot of attention (naturally since it plays a vital part in running the equipment which keeps you comfortable in the living area) but the engine battery is left to fend for itself when the vehicle is not running.

Your vehicle is likely to be equipped with a hookup, and maybe a solar panel or generator, which keep your leisure battery charged, and you'll probably have instrumentation which monitors the state of charge of the leisure battery. So the leisure battery can cope with long periods when the vehicle is 'parked up' and not being charged from the engine alternator.

On the other hand, the engine battery is quietly being drained by small loads which are drawn by the vehicle's standard electrical system even when the vehicle is not being used, and by self-discharge. If you have added an alarm system for the motorhome then that increases the drain and the battery can lose charge quite quickly to a level where starting is jeopardised. Batteries which are allowed to become too discharged without prompt recharging will be permanently damaged. And usually there is nothing to warn you that this is happening, since the vehicle most likely does not have instrumentation to display the engine battery's state of charge.

Battery Master has a maximum charging current of 1.1 amps which is designed to cope with these low-level losses from the starter battery.

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Fully waterproof, British made and designed, Battery Master is easy to install and comes complete with instructions, and for fixing it has a self adhesive / velcro-type pad and tie wraps.



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@Dellmassive Does this just affect how quickly the starter battery can be charged from the Leisure Battery being limited to 1 Amp or is there more to it than that? I'm still learning this stuff!
Not 100% sure until we see inside one...

But yes I thinks so.... its just a diode/resistor bank that will allow 1A to flow from the AUX to starter battery, provided the starter is a lower voltage than the aux battery.
 
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1. EHU connected so leisure battery gets a charge as well
2. Ctek Mxs 5.0 connected to 240v socket in van, then Ctek extension lead and cigarette socket adapter plugged in to lower dash socket.

Been about 8 hours now and still on bulk charge.

And yes, I am using a laptop and zoom to watch my battery charge :laugh:
 
@Dellmassive Does this just affect how quickly the starter battery can be charged from the Leisure Battery being limited to 1 Amp or is there more to it than that? I'm still learning this stuff!
Presumably a constant low charge will keep it topped up. The proof is when you come to start it :think smile bounce:
 
I don't think the Redarc DC-DC chargers charge the starter battery from solar input.
yes, sorry my mistake/typo.

Renogy & Ctek will do it, . . . . . . Redarc & Victron etc wont do it !

I've edited the above.
 
2. Ctek Mxs 5.0 connected to 240v socket in van, then Ctek extension lead and cigarette socket adapter plugged in to lower dash socket.]

Can you use the upper cig socket for the same purpose or does it ha e to be the lower?
 
2. Ctek Mxs 5.0 connected to 240v socket in van, then Ctek extension lead and cigarette socket adapter plugged in to lower dash socket.]

Can you use the upper cig socket for the same purpose or does it ha e to be the lower?
The upper is traditionally connected to a leisure battery when it has been spec’d from factory, so if your van came with the aux wiring under the seat, the feed may run from there. If not it’ll obviously be main battery.
 
2. Ctek Mxs 5.0 connected to 240v socket in van, then Ctek extension lead and cigarette socket adapter plugged in to lower dash socket.]

Can you use the upper cig socket for the same purpose or does it ha e to be the lower?
As he said!

Mine was a bog-standard highline panel van, no factory leisure battery. Both plugs will charge the starter battery :thumbsup:
 
As he said!

Mine was a bog-standard highline panel van, no factory leisure battery. Both plugs will charge the starter battery :thumbsup:
Thanks guys, you know how it is, you think you have got it sorted then someone says something and it puts doubt into your mind.
 
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Between 12 and 24 hours to fully charge and get to stage 7 on the MXS 5.

And here is my remote monitoring system

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(it is actually at 12.7v, but camera shutter speed is too fast!)

12v socket splitter with the forum recommended usb voltage display adapter.

Only trouble is I have to go to the front door to get a reading :laugh:
 
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