Mojave conversion
- Thread starter drew_greenday
- Start date
Had the first night away in the van with my girlfriend after fitting the bed and the Eber. The van feels nice and comfortable now, with the roof down and new silver thermal screens it was sitting at a lovely 18 degrees with not much effort. It wasn’t that cold out so didn’t have it running all night.
Woke up to see my van positioned nicely under the rainbow! The weather for the day was awful, 60 plus mph winds and rain pretty much all day. The hills were ok, had done one before but needed to tick the other one.
Harris wasn’t too pleased with the Scottish weather!
Van is off to the garage tomorrow to fix the heater and hopefully they will see to the sliding door also.
I have the ability to read dogs minds just by looking at them. Trust me, you do not want to know what Harris is thinking!!!! Needless to say, have you heard of the phrase ‘dirty protest’?
As @Pauly said, the resistor is blown on my heating system. Annoyingly I told them this when I booked it in for them to now have the van back to fit the part as it’s chassis specific. Atleast I got a free wash with the work, and my sliding door lubed.
I spoke to the ‘salesman’ about the H4’s being crap. He said his H7’s were fine. On closer inspection he also had H4’s and had only driven them around town, so nowhere actually dark. Aftermarket ones for me I think as I can’t justify the OEM LED’s.
I spoke to the ‘salesman’ about the H4’s being crap. He said his H7’s were fine. On closer inspection he also had H4’s and had only driven them around town, so nowhere actually dark. Aftermarket ones for me I think as I can’t justify the OEM LED’s.
Had the resistor changed in the van. They said it was only the resistor but also it’s vehicle specific so I reckon they changed the header unit.
I ordered a set of h7 headlights this morning. Hopefully fit them next week. Does anyone near Glasgow have vcds for the side light coding?
I ordered a set of h7 headlights this morning. Hopefully fit them next week. Does anyone near Glasgow have vcds for the side light coding?
The H7 lights turned up last week, I was away in Stranraer for the weekend so got around to fitting them this morning. Was as simple as written up here. The only tricky part was the hidden clip behind the wheel arch cover if you don’t take that out you will probably break something when trying to pull it out.
Here’s the new light with main beam on.
And with the full beam on. I went to my local VW specialist and phoned up Pauly whilst there. He had auto logic instead of VCDS and was really simple to code. As Pauly said, BCM, byte 22 and reduce the hexi by two. Accept them it worked first time.
Atleast I can now drive far north and see the deer at the side of the road. Will order some brighter bulbs for them.
Good to hear you got it all sorted mate
Defo should have wiped the birdshit off before the photos though !!
Yeah she’s getting a wash tomorrow! Thanks again for your help.
tolbot boulton
New Member
nice, just started converting mine in the same colour! just finishing the wall ply panels which are a nightmare, but ready for carpeting now.
Finally managed to pick up the van from the window fitters, not too sure they were honest about the small leak.
One thing I noticed was I had no internal 12v lights available, then I noticed the battery monitor was blank, and finally nothing at all 12v worked, except the led on the usb chargers. So I think somehow they have totally drained the leisure battery, over the course of two weeks or so. Either all the lights on at once, inverter on etc. I measured the Leisure battery and it was reading 5.7v!!!!! Don’t think it should be that low? I also noticed the dc-dc charger wasn’t doing anything at all when the engine was running. I checked both 40amp fuses and both were good. Hopefully it’s just the charger as I’ve ordered a new one from travelvolts.
Will I need to charge the battery from mains power as it’s so low.
The van had its first service, after picking it back up and component protection in place on my head unit, I spoke to pauly on here and confirmed it, I had to make another trip to the centre where they admitted doing a BCM Software update after the van was recalled for it. It wasn’t mentioned to me before or after the work was carried out and the guy who ‘fixed’ it didn’t know anything about it.
Then I got down to the small jobs I had in my van. I replaced the Ring D.C.-D.C. charger with a CTEK unit. I had to run a cable from the main fuse box under the gearstick for an ignition feed. Then replaced the original wire connectors with ring terminals. Easy job, hopefully this unit won’t give me any hassle.
Then I fitted the Kiravans doorstore in my slider and the two remaining curtain sets. I love the van x quality in the curtains but hate the rails. Make them fit the contours of the van like other companies do and you’ll have a great product.
Off to a wedding tomorrow then away in the van for Hogmanay.
Then I got down to the small jobs I had in my van. I replaced the Ring D.C.-D.C. charger with a CTEK unit. I had to run a cable from the main fuse box under the gearstick for an ignition feed. Then replaced the original wire connectors with ring terminals. Easy job, hopefully this unit won’t give me any hassle.
Then I fitted the Kiravans doorstore in my slider and the two remaining curtain sets. I love the van x quality in the curtains but hate the rails. Make them fit the contours of the van like other companies do and you’ll have a great product.
Off to a wedding tomorrow then away in the van for Hogmanay.
Had a night away over the new year up at the Rest and be Thankful. Was far better than the usual beer fuelled scenes at a pub! Just me, Yvonne and Harris.
My parents bought me some van mugs for the christmas. They were put to good use.
The weather was less than ideal on the 1st so harris donned his new Equafleece. The van was warm with the silverscreens and thermal curtains. Yvonne even complained it was too hot!!!!
I did notice that the difference between the side window with the curtain open and closed. It was remarkably warmer. Top marks to Van-x for the curtains.
My parents bought me some van mugs for the christmas. They were put to good use.
The weather was less than ideal on the 1st so harris donned his new Equafleece. The van was warm with the silverscreens and thermal curtains. Yvonne even complained it was too hot!!!!
I did notice that the difference between the side window with the curtain open and closed. It was remarkably warmer. Top marks to Van-x for the curtains.
Thanks @chriscroft
Like the look of your devonports. Trying to decide what will make the van more appealing when selling, new speakers, a rear spoiler or dropping it 40mm.....
Not selling it yet. But want to do it all sensibly.
Like the look of your devonports. Trying to decide what will make the van more appealing when selling, new speakers, a rear spoiler or dropping it 40mm.....
Not selling it yet. But want to do it all sensibly.
Would you do another conversion?
Defiantly. This is my third. Keep the ball rolling and the cash coming in.
So a rare sunny day in Scotland meant I could fit the door speakers recently purchased from @Absolut5
Firstly I checked the forum for how to remove the door cards, pauly has a picture on a thread somewhere but essentially it’s two plastic lock bolts on the underside and pull off the three clips either side, after you’ve removed the window button.
One thing I found out here is the need to remove the cover to the pull handle and then take out the two torq bolts that hold the handle to the door.
With the cover off you’re left with the standard oem speaker, this has been riveted in so will need drilling. I knew my eleven years in the RAF fixing aircraft skin would come in handy! If you’re worried about doing this then don’t be. Use a 5mm hss drill bit and drill them slowly, the worst thing you can do is push really hard as the drill will grab the rivet and it will start to spin. If this does happen then go on to the next one. Hopefully you will manage all of them off clean. If one does spin then lightly prise the speaker away from the skin and this will tighten the rivet.
With the old speaker off, and all of the rivet tails removed from the inside of the door! Fit the cnc collars supplied. I used stainless steel M5 Allan bolts 20mm long with nyloc washers. You must use nyloc or some form of locking mechanism as the last thing you want is them to come loose. These were bought from Screwfix! When you orientate the collar make sure you have it around enough to allow both parts of the connection to be made.
At this point I offered up the speaker, connected it and gave it a test. All working well I fitted it to the collar. I opted to fit different screws as the black ones provided weren’t the best quality shall we say!
After fitting the speaker I silent coated the skin of the door and the inner of the door card. Then refitted all the pieces ensuring I didn’t forget the door clip! Do’h.
Here’s the drivers side also.
I removed the a pillar trims to have a look at the tweeters but will leave it for a different day, I’m guessing they need to be prised off and the new ones glued in? @Pauly do you have any of the vw connectors so I can fit the crossovers!
Firstly I checked the forum for how to remove the door cards, pauly has a picture on a thread somewhere but essentially it’s two plastic lock bolts on the underside and pull off the three clips either side, after you’ve removed the window button.
One thing I found out here is the need to remove the cover to the pull handle and then take out the two torq bolts that hold the handle to the door.
With the cover off you’re left with the standard oem speaker, this has been riveted in so will need drilling. I knew my eleven years in the RAF fixing aircraft skin would come in handy! If you’re worried about doing this then don’t be. Use a 5mm hss drill bit and drill them slowly, the worst thing you can do is push really hard as the drill will grab the rivet and it will start to spin. If this does happen then go on to the next one. Hopefully you will manage all of them off clean. If one does spin then lightly prise the speaker away from the skin and this will tighten the rivet.
With the old speaker off, and all of the rivet tails removed from the inside of the door! Fit the cnc collars supplied. I used stainless steel M5 Allan bolts 20mm long with nyloc washers. You must use nyloc or some form of locking mechanism as the last thing you want is them to come loose. These were bought from Screwfix! When you orientate the collar make sure you have it around enough to allow both parts of the connection to be made.
At this point I offered up the speaker, connected it and gave it a test. All working well I fitted it to the collar. I opted to fit different screws as the black ones provided weren’t the best quality shall we say!
After fitting the speaker I silent coated the skin of the door and the inner of the door card. Then refitted all the pieces ensuring I didn’t forget the door clip! Do’h.
Here’s the drivers side also.
I removed the a pillar trims to have a look at the tweeters but will leave it for a different day, I’m guessing they need to be prised off and the new ones glued in? @Pauly do you have any of the vw connectors so I can fit the crossovers!
