Clear as day in the manual now. Will give it a try when next out in the van.
I've followed all the instructions now and it seems to work fine, although only briefly tested. not sure if it works with the DSG yet. Does anyone know which bit of the coding makes it work with the DSG? Nothing I have seen/noticed specified manual or DSG ref the coding.
For anyone contemplating this, it is not that difficult to follow once you get tucked into it. It does take a while though when it is all new. I'm happy to help as others have helped me. I can't do the coding though as my unlimited clone didn't work for the engine module - happy to let others try it for themselves though as I've now got a gen cable, but limited VIN, and multiple VW's it will be used on.
Serious thanks to the likes of
@chang1 ,
@mr.needs ,
@mmi ,
@Dellmassive for the write-ups/info/guidance - I'm sure there were points to note from others too, but can't remember all. My used steering wheel was £130 from Germany (£70 new one with paddles from Columbia never arrived - surprise!). £40 kufatec wiring harness. Probably about £40 all in on repair wires, 5 mt yellow 0.5 wire, heat shrink, solder, pin release tools, panel tools, etc. mr.needs lists all parts needed.
Coding will be the issue for most if you are not prepared to take the £225 hit on the cable, or don't know anyone who can do it. i saw this bit as an investment in the van's well-being, once i'd realised my clone wasn't going to work....
It took me way longer than I had planned, but i'm lucky enough to have a garage I could do it in. Not sure I would have wanted to do this on the side of the road, especially if raining.
You will need to remove the scuttle panel to route the wire if you don't already have cruise in the van, and the windscreen wipers can be a bugger to get off. i believe Halfords do a cheap wiper removal tool, but I used a small 3 leg gear puller (one leg needed grinding for drivers side as it is very close to trim panel)
Under the battery-
I release all of the fuses and moved the holder out of the way so I could get my hands in easier.
The T10 connector is buried right at the bottom under the battery. I had a bit on a sweat on at this bit, but slow and methodical is the key. The connectors are grouped on each row by their wires, but i took photos at each level just to be sure I put it all back correctly. A long flat blade screwdriver is really useful here for either separating the connectors while you push the release button with your finger as you get further down, and for releasing the T10 housing from the connector support cage as you will need to do this to get the side that the repair wire goes in out on the connector due to some wires coming up through the panel below it. Be careful not to tug on the cables. Slow and steady.
T10 Pin 1 cable route-
There is a grommet on the right of the elec box as you are looking at it whilst doing this. That feeds through easy.
Then there is one behind it to get you up into the scuttle tray. This one is properly insulated. I pushed a small screwdriver through the rubber, then a small rigid tube through the hole. A pen core worked really well as you can then push the wire into it, and feed it through. Then top right is an open hole into the cab. Remove lower glove box to get access to this.
Easiest way to get across to divers side is a piece of 6mm PU air hose, or similar. Rigid enough to feed behind dash and then just feed wire through.
BMC pin 36 was a pain. There was not enough slack to get the connector down, so I ended up removing clocks and feeding connector up through the opening as suggested by Chang1 I think. Easy to splice onto the wire then.
Just one thing: Engine module 01, Byte 5, bit 5-6 is a drop down menu. It is bit 6 that should be high (1) and bit 5 low (0). the string should look like 01000100 and the hex value for byte 5 should be 24. It was 04 initially in my non-cruise van.
If you don't have a whole day and want to, in my opinion this can easily be broken into 2 chunks despite suggestions otherwise in this thread.
Pt 1 - T10 pin 1 cable and feed to into drivers foot well. only need to remove side panel and two lower panels on drivers side. This is really quick and easy so no big deal.
Pt 2 - the rest.
Anyway, just some notes that may help other contemplating this.
It's actually really satisfying to have done it myself.
If you don't want to do it yourself, then look up Michael Sims on facebook. He is based near Manchester and provides the wheels new and does all the install and coding for you. He was kind enough to give me free advice over the phone after seeing a facebook post from me asking for advice. Genuine guy, and no, I don't have any affiliation.
Good luck
