Seat Base Electric + EHU + Solar Install + Charger + DC-DC -- How We Done it --

Isn't the BB122430 12V in 24V out at 30A ? - How do you have this set up?
I'm not quite sure mate, it was all fitted when I bought the van. I decided to upgrade from AGM to lithium (for more days off grid,). I got another conversion company to fit the new battery, upgrade the solar and fit a victron mppt. I just assumed the DC to dc would be compatible as it has a setting for lithium. Sorry mate that's as technical as I can get

The solar is working superbly, battery went from 30% charge to 94% over 4 days and it's been overcast most of the time.
 
I'm not quite sure mate, it was all fitted when I bought the van. I decided to upgrade from AGM to lithium (for more days off grid,). I got another conversion company to fit the new battery, upgrade the solar and fit a victron mppt. I just assumed the DC to dc would be compatible as it has a setting for lithium. Sorry mate that's as technical as I can get

The solar is working superbly, battery went from 30% charge to 94% over 4 days and it's been overcast most of the time.
Bud I would rather you spoke to someone else but simply I have a roamer SB which I installed.so after dark( which rules out solar just to be really simplistic NOT patronizing),sit in van open roamer app on phone. Once that's done look at the word current RHS of screen. Now start bus.....................if the B2B is putting in amps it will show.

I have just literally done this and can see the minute I switched the victron 12 12 30 B2B on I had 30A show. I installed a manual kill for B2B as I have concerns about heat which is an aside. but it means I can actually manually switch it on.just for you :D ( I doubt meself a lot mate)

So basically if no amps show on your roamer app then I'd summize something is afoot. Buddy that's where I hand you to other folks I know nowt of the sterling B2B .

I will say this Dellmassive has created a vast resource here.couple that with you tube vids . Do some cold hard research I really think it's time well spent to learn as much as possible about your camper leccy .

Hope this helps

stu
 
Bud I would rather you spoke to someone else but simply I have a roamer SB which I installed.so after dark( which rules out solar just to be really simplistic NOT patronizing),sit in van open roamer app on phone. Once that's done look at the word current RHS of screen. Now start bus.....................if the B2B is putting in amps it will show.

I have just literally done this and can see the minute I switched the victron 12 12 30 B2B on I had 30A show. I installed a manual kill for B2B as I have concerns about heat which is an aside. but it means I can actually manually switch it on.just for you :D ( I doubt meself a lot mate)

So basically if no amps show on your roamer app then I'd summize something is afoot. Buddy that's where I hand you to other folks I know nowt of the sterling B2B .

I will say this Dellmassive has created a vast resource here.couple that with you tube vids . Do some cold hard research I really think it's time well spent to learn as much as possible about your camper leccy .

Hope this helps

stu
Cheers mate will do, not patronising at all ;):D thanks for getting back to me. I suspected I should be able to see if amps were going in via the roamer app but wasn't sure exactly what I should be looking for. I'll be hoping for 30a then if not I'll get reading/investigating. :thumbsup:
 
Soz kiddo I worry tis all....................... eng lang is not me thang :rofl:


Bud as the roamer nears being full a smart charger will drop the amps so one shouldn't necessarily see 30 A but what one should see is amps on engine start up.leastways if that is how it's been wired ...................unless simply like moi you have to flick a switch . Most installs use an ingnition feed trigger.asking converter I guess is worth while?

Look right on roamer app below" discharging on" for those amps.

Forgive me I'm a clutz with computers or I'd just screen shot for you. .Can't stress how much use having a base understanding of what the converter has done will be of use to you.

All the luck
 
Soz kiddo I worry tis all....................... eng lang is not me thang :rofl:


Bud as the roamer nears being full a smart charger will drop the amps so one shouldn't necessarily see 30 A but what one should see is amps on engine start up.leastways if that is how it's been wired ...................unless simply like moi you have to flick a switch . Most installs use an ingnition feed trigger.asking converter I guess is worth while?

Look right on roamer app below" discharging on" for those amps.

Forgive me I'm a clutz with computers or I'd just screen shot for you. .Can't stress how much use having a base understanding of what the converter has done will be of use to you.

All the luck
Tried what you suggested and the current in is 0 the battery is currently at 100% soc so it's own internal battery management system might have something to do with that?.

I'm sure when I checked this the other day when the battery was at 62% the current was only something like 3.8a nothing like 30a. I'll do some more monitoring when I get away for the weekend and drain some power out of the battery. Can't fault the solar set up though it's pumping this thing full of power.

 
sorry @Muckyboots havent been getting the pings from this thread?

you need to run the ROAMER down to about 50%, (disable the solar for a while)

then take some screen shots when the engine is running,

and some pics of the battery and dc-dc charger.

does the charger have a lithium profile?

if the DC_DC is not charging it may be a supply fuse gone.

you will need a voltmeter to start checking.

++++++++++++++++++


when the dc-dc is charging you should see 20-30 A charging going into the battery


1677738705292.png



see here for settings,

make sure the lights are correct and lithium profile is set:




.


1677738980436.png

1677738994476.png
 
No need to apologise mate. Thanks for taking the time to reply. I'll check the lithium setting tonight when I get home. I read the battery type selected flashes when you turn the ignition on. When I checked the charger the other day No's 19 and 20 were lit but not battery type indicator so I'm guessing it only flashes for a bit then goes out.

I'll try running the battery down next weekend when I'm away in the van then see how the charger performs. Not sure if I'll manage to get it down to 50% right enough this thing is a monster ha

Thanks again, much appreciated.
sorry @Muckyboots havent been getting the pings from this thread?

you need to run the ROAMER down to about 50%, (disable the solar for a while)

then take some screen shots when the engine is running,

and some pics of the battery and dc-dc charger.

does the charger have a lithium profile?

if the DC_DC is not charging it may be a supply fuse gone.

you will need a voltmeter to start checking.

++++++++++++++++++


when the dc-dc is charging you should see 20-30 A charging going into the battery


View attachment 190364



see here for settings,

make sure the lights are correct and lithium profile is set:




.


View attachment 190365

View attachment 190366
 
I might be nearly finished wiring my set up or moments away from releasing the magic smoke, could some kind person tell me if my layout (which I've installed) will work as, at the moment, to me it looks like my EHU smart charger will charge the starter battery as well as the Roamer seat battery and they're different battery types.
This is what happens when you leave elderly folks to their own devices but I'm dithering now and going round in circles and not sure if I should alter the layout slightly to version 2 on my paper point presentation drawing, apart from more fuses I won't be able to isolate the DCCS50 with the battery isolator in version 2.

IMG20230306172838.jpg
 
@Dellmassive
I might be nearly finished wiring my set up or moments away from releasing the magic smoke, could some kind person tell me if my layout (which I've installed) will work as, at the moment, to me it looks like my EHU smart charger will charge the starter battery as well as the Roamer seat battery and they're different battery types.
This is what happens when you leave elderly folks to their own devices but I'm dithering now and going round in circles and not sure if I should alter the layout slightly to version 2 on my paper point presentation drawing, apart from more fuses I won't be able to isolate the DCCS50 with the battery isolator in version 2.
 
I didn't like to pester Lee and was hoping there might be a consensus of yes/ no from the various people on here who had been down this particular rabbit hole... I'll turn it on for the smoke test as it's nearly above 8C here now!
 
@bobbybasic I thangyew, I struggle with tech at many levels and poke my way around on the phone... seem to have lost my smilies on that again too although they work on this laptop!

Regarding my two versions I've got the wiring as per version 1 currently as I was getting paranoid reading about the leisure battery being drained back through the various bits of equipment attached to it so I wanted to be able to completely isolate the battery, on the live side anyway, then the doubts creep in.

Edit and no they don't work on the lap top either.
 
@Stay Frosty

you can do either. . .

just remember to fuse all battery connections ( as close to the POS terminal as practical).

diag#1 is more traditional, using the isolator switch to totally disconnect the battery from the system.



see here for more schematics to compare:





..

eg:

1678202500997.png
 
Couple of pictures for @Ian1966 a fellow Redline reconvertor showing the 230Ah Roamer seatbase battery and a Renogy DCC50, it's not finished, there will be a battery strap and one more fuse at the battery positive before the battery isolator, just waiting for the icy rain to wash away the snow, then wait for the temperature to climb towards double figures, then stand there dithering while the wife turns on the battery isolator.:thumbsup:
Yes I will be fitting the Renogy terminal covers although there is a massive 6mm gap between the battery and the DCC50!

IMG20230303121948.jpg

IMG20230303122051.jpg
 
Current, hopefully final, wiring layout as installed here, pretty snug and can see maybe installing a PC fan on the front of the seat base cover I made to help the DCC50S heatsink lose heat... we'll see how that fares come summer.

IMG20230312113507.jpg

The wires are 4 guage from the starter 75A fuse onwards and between the leisure battery, Renogy DCC50S and 4 way fuse block, the other wires are 8 guage from the Victron smart charger and for the mini blade fuseboard then 10 guage for the incoming solar pair.
 
Current, hopefully final, wiring layout as installed here, pretty snug and can see maybe installing a PC fan on the front of the seat base cover I made to help the DCC50S heatsink lose heat... we'll see how that fares come summer.

View attachment 191791

The wires are 4 guage from the starter 75A fuse onwards and between the leisure battery, Renogy DCC50S and 4 way fuse block, the other wires are 8 guage from the Victron smart charger and for the mini blade fuseboard then 10 guage for the incoming solar pair.
Mini blade fuse holder under seat.hmm.Frosty....................... I am really really good at taking out My T5 seats I've done it waaay waay too many times. But it is a proper PITA. and really I'm waaay too old for that stuff..... so maybe snick that mini blade on the back of a seat base?

I can almost guarantee you will pop a seat back and then want to pull a fuse. Someone brighter than I mentioned this which I came across inadvertantly I owe that guy !!

Oh and regarding cooling of B2B Mr massive pointed me at a R1209 temp sensing relay jobby a few quid ( and a biggish fan ;)) made me worry less.


Sparkies have so many red and yellow tools and only come out in fair weather.............. strange breed:rofl:

All the luck with it mate I adore my roamer

stu
 
Next problem and one I hadn't given a thought but how can I drain the Roamer down to give it's first cycle?
I've got a Waeco fridge and the various led spots and strips but as it's not exactly summer yet the fridge is using bugger all electric and in about 5hrs the shunt display has gone down from showing 196Ah to 193Ah... I could do with a 12V fan heater.
 
any high electrical load. . .

12v fan heater.

i use an inverter and 240v small fan heater.
 
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