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Deleted member 6852
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Im planning on buying some THQ's in january, after you have fitted them do you need to get them aligned at a garage?
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TransporterHQ (THQ) Aftermarket Headlights
Im planning on buying some THQ's in january, after you have fitted them do you need to get them aligned at a garage?
You could do with getting them aligned properly. Lights that bright your going to either not light up as much road as you could or dazzle oncoming drivers if their not right.
Yea, Loz Jr was driving to work this morning with me as Passenger (L plates) and we were passed by a Red T6 with H4s who had fitted an aftermarket LED and the spread was really bad ..
The VW lights have two plastic Allen screws from above. One moves the beam left-right the other up/down. THQ lights may be different.
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Deleted member 6852
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I know its been discussed in various threads but what is the general opinion....... which is The best option to go for (i currently H4's)
THQ's or OEM h7's ?
THQ's or OEM h7's ?
With the Vanstyle harness being plug and play it's going to be the opposite - as you're not adding another power source (e.g. connecting direct to the battery), this will overload the circuit which is now supplying two bulbs rather than one. By doing the coding, each bulb is supplied by it's own wiring.
Trooutie - those Limastar bulbs are 100W so they too are asking more from your lighting circuit than intended so I'd recommend putting some proper wattage bulbs in. Many months ago I did a voltage drop test comparing 55W to 100W through the OEM wiring and the drop with 100W bulbs fitted is greater than you would want to run (it's in one of these threads somewhere).
Just checked THQ website. The only H7 bulbs they advertise are 55w and not listed as Limastar, what did you fit @trooutie , still got the box or can you remember?
@Mooncat from what I can make out the headlight circuit is protected by a 30a fuse so would expect the wiring to be able to take at least 30a so even running 2x 100w bulbs it would be pulling around 16a.
Anyone know the wire section used to the lights, the important being the earth as that would be taking double if the dipped are on with main?
Thanks @Pauly so the 1.5mm cable is at its limit really at 16a but should be ok if 100w bulbs are used in both and coded for dipped with main. The drl on the Caravelle light unit would not be on so no draw and for the time and intermittent draw of indicators wouldn’t really affect it but the -ve is really at its limit.
trooutie
Member
Boy these new fangled motors are getting a bit complex
When I were a lad we just bolted a couple of cibie oscars to the front of the Moggie thousand with a switch and a relay
now you need to be a quantum physics master just to put fuel in the right tank .
ok Thanks Mooncat. I will put summat with less draw so the wimpy wiring can not set fire to my new bus .
and eat loads of carrots .
That's what the voltage drop tests does - checks that the wiring is man enough for the job (or dodgy connections). 55W bulbs no problem at all but with 100W they were right on the limit. I'd have to find my notes but fairly sure I put the results on the forum somewhere
May be your notes are here --> These headlights are ####!!!
A question: have you monitored the voltage when headlights are on when driving? E.g. at cigarette lighter socket. As the T6 has so called smart alternator and thus the voltage fluctuates quite a lot, so I would expect to see the regular headlights to get brighter and dimmer along with that. Unless there is a voltage stabilizator involved... I can't do that (observe the lights) because I've got LED headlights and they have their own power supply. Just wondering if having headlights on turns also the alternator to higher/stable voltage level...
