I’d happily buddy up with you on exploring this!
Installing 12v Socket /s - How Its Done -
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
Dellmassive’s "How I Done It" blogs.
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Love how this solution “future proofs” the van for additional kit. Bury a multi-way and plug into it if needed!
Cheers for all the previous info on this thread guys/gals. Think I’ve managed to get it done and working correctly
finished product. Off with ignition off.
usb with ignition on. Can be isolated by the button too
the tiniest of trimming with scalpel to fit new socket
piggyback fuse to feed from ignition live. You need the piggyback with the long legs(I got the wrong one!)
finished product. Off with ignition off.
usb with ignition on. Can be isolated by the button too
the tiniest of trimming with scalpel to fit new socket
piggyback fuse to feed from ignition live. You need the piggyback with the long legs(I got the wrong one!)
That’s a cracking job! Love that you can isolate the USB too
Stupot67
Member
Hi. Am a newbie to here and van life and trying my best to avoid starting new threads that have already been covered and found this one. On hooking up my dash cam, it seems that the top dash 12v and the cig lighter are permanent live (cam was still on hours after parking up). Is this correct? Seems an odd default to have. Surely off with ignition makes more sense? Anyway, I just wanted to double check that is the case and then I guess I can use info on this thread to connect one to ignition power. Thanks.
loadinglevelone
Member
All volkswagens and skodas I've owned have had permanent 12V on the factory cigarette socket. I installed an additional socket myself and wired it to 12v with ignition on only.
Stupot67
Member
I was looking at your pics. Do you have the fuse number slot for the piggy back to go in by chance?
I’d also like to install this USB charger that doesn’t draw power when the ignition is off.
Are the two items below correct and all that is required for this?
⬆ Thlevel USB C Car Charger Socket Dual USB Outlet PD & QC 3.0 Fast Car Charger Socket
⬆ KOLACEN Mini Blade Type Fuse Assorted Kit 81 Pieces + 3 Pieces 16 Gauge Add-a-circuit Mini Fuse TAP Adapter
For charging only when the ignition is on, my understanding is to piggyback to the 15amp fuse in middle row, second fuse down (as per @Dellmassive's post: 12v Igntn Feed + 5xusb Charging From Ign Feed - Today's Install). And use a 10amp fuse for the charging socket.
And I’d need to attach the o-type connector on the black ground cable to one of the fuse box mounting screws.
Does that sound correct?
Yes.
Make sure the the piggy back is the right way round. ( So the fuse cuts power when pulled)
And that the ring terminal has a good ground.
Will here be okay? (Attach the black -ve ring terminal to the fuse box mounting plate via bolt circled in red.)
Yep... Should be good.
The above worked a treat @Dellmassive; thanks for the help and all the awesome information in your threads. 
I'd like to add another one of these cigar lighter style USB sockets for charging only when the ignition is on. How would I go about locating another appropriate fuse? (I've piggybacked the current one on the 15amp fuse in middle row, second fuse down as per your post – so I believe that fuse is no longer available to me…)
I'd like to add another one of these cigar lighter style USB sockets for charging only when the ignition is on. How would I go about locating another appropriate fuse? (I've piggybacked the current one on the 15amp fuse in middle row, second fuse down as per your post – so I believe that fuse is no longer available to me…)
all the middle row are IGN fed. . . . so you can use any of the others.The above worked a treat @Dellmassive; thanks for the help and all the awesome information in your threads.
I'd like to add another one of these cigar lighter style USB sockets for charging only when the ignition is on. How would I go about locating another appropriate fuse? (I've piggybacked the current one on the 15amp fuse in middle row, second fuse down as per your post – so I believe that fuse is no longer available to me…)
Thanks! It turns out I don't have another >=10A fuse available in the middle row. I can't use a fuse-tap with both of the 15A fuses because there's not enough physical space.
I know very little about what I'm doing, but I checked with a multimeter and it seems my three empty fuse slots have 12v power!
Apparently these slots would be:
From my research, I believe I can attach my fuse-tap to any one of these (with no fuse in the bottom slot of the fuse tap). I think using SC31 would be best as that'd provide my fuse-tap with the most headroom. I'd then use the same ground point as the other charger (shown in the top-left of the above picture).
Does this all sound correct/safe @Dellmassive?
I know very little about what I'm doing, but I checked with a multimeter and it seems my three empty fuse slots have 12v power!
Apparently these slots would be:
Code:
Fuse 31 on fuse holder C -SC31-:
Nominal value -
not assigned
Fuse 33 on fuse holder C -SC33-:
Nominal value 10A
Rear differential lock switch -E121-
Vacuum switch for rear differential lock -F363-
All-wheel drive control unit -J492-
Differential lock control unit -J187-
Fuse 34 on fuse holder C -SC34-:
Nominal value 5A
Operating and display unit for camping equipment -E153- Internet access control unit -J666-
10-pin connector -T10bj/10-
Interface for external use 10-pin connector -T10bh/9-From my research, I believe I can attach my fuse-tap to any one of these (with no fuse in the bottom slot of the fuse tap). I think using SC31 would be best as that'd provide my fuse-tap with the most headroom. I'd then use the same ground point as the other charger (shown in the top-left of the above picture).
Does this all sound correct/safe @Dellmassive?
there is a bar on the back of the fuse holder linking these fuses so they are all live when the ignition is on. A much neater solution would be to add your + wire using extra pin terminals into the back of the fuse holder and then you can put your fuse in the front OEM style. Saving having a rats nest of piggy backs in the front and is much neater. It does involve taking the fuse holder out but its pretty simple to do by removing some of the lower dash plastics.
I have done this in several of the slots for rear USB sockets and my dash cam. Just make sure you label them , i did this by writing on the rear of the fuse cover lid.
Found another @Dellmassive guide here which was super helpful:
[Guide] Barn-Door Reversing Camera Retrofit -- How I Done It --
Barn door Reversing Camera Retrofit -- How I Done It -- This is how its works: ******************************************************************* At the time of ordering the van i was told i could not have the RVS CAM option as it was only for tailgate models . . . . yeh right what-ever...
