Installing 12v Socket /s - How Its Done -

Ok, gotcha.

So when retrofitting USB outlets and other electrical equipment to the cabin electrics (not to the leisure battery) - then make sure that whatever equipment you're connecting can handle voltages above 14V, or fit voltage regulators.

BTW, I seem to remember someone saying that the voltage goes all the way up 17v with euro 6?
 
yes basically . .

I've not seen 17v in my testing.

but have seen 12v - 15v


1624139530782.png

more info here:


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I have one of those white amazonbasics usb chargers and its rubbish. Not that it doesn't work, no it's the design of it which makes it slide out of the 12V socket constantly. I think it's down to the design of those rounded spring loaded negative terminals. Utterly annoying. The think simply will not stay in the 12V socket. I see a lot of cheap ebay alternatives around, which all have the same basic flaw.
 
Electrics blow my mind, it’s like I’ve become a primary school pupil and nothing makes sense. I have day van, no electrics in it but I am wanting some 12V in the back to charge few things whilst driving.
Is this an option? Is there anyone in the north west that fits these?
 
Looking at where to get the “blade fuse terminals” to add 3 fuses to the original fuse box for added sockets.
Any help I’d much appreciated
 
Looking at where to get the “blade fuse terminals” to add 3 fuses to the original fuse box for added sockets.
Any help I’d much appreciated
 
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@Dellmassive /all,
the 12v outlet on the upper dash tray is ideadly placed for a usb instead of a 12v outlet.
i know the standard 12v cigarette lighters are perm live, so I’m guessing it’s not just a straight swap to put something like a thlevel dual usb(top pic) in its place?
what I want to do is have a perm non live usb outlet rather than a perm live 12v with an added USB adapter (like the ainope one above). I am worried if I do it the second way I will forget to unplug it and end up with flat battery as I don’t drive the van every day.
any ideas appreciated
 
@Dellmassive /all,
the 12v outlet on the upper dash tray is ideadly placed for a usb instead of a 12v outlet.
i know the standard 12v cigarette lighters are perm live, so I’m guessing it’s not just a straight swap to put something like a thlevel dual usb(top pic) in its place?
what I want to do is have a perm non live usb outlet rather than a perm live 12v with an added USB adapter (like the ainope one above). I am worried if I do it the second way I will forget to unplug it and end up with flat battery as I don’t drive the van every day.
any ideas appreciated


you can run a power feed from the centre line of the SC fuse box (lower dash center)

the centre line is Ignition switched, so only live when the van is running and off when the vans parked.

so just use that power feed instead of the PERM OEM feed.

example fuse tap below:






1636365503404.png
 
you can run a power feed from the centre line of the SC fuse box (lower dash center)

the centre line is Ignition switched, so only live when the van is running and off when the vans parked.

so just use that power feed instead of the PERM OEM feed.

example fuse tap below:






View attachment 135790
Thanks. I hadn't thought of that way about doing it. I even used that middle row the other day too, to hardwire in my dashcam.
Electrics are not my strongpoint, haha
Thanks again
 
So if I take the feed from the middle fuse row with this

A46D698B-0743-4C11-9A63-0FFE54520F56.png


Then replace this into the upper 12v cig lighter socket

0FE74C34-E730-4CDA-9D90-0478B91E753C.png
Then fit the cables supplied with the spade ends to the usb socket, and at the other ends, earth the black and crimp the red into the fuse buddy.

am I correct with this?
am I missing anything else?
 
So if I take the feed from the middle fuse row with this

View attachment 137082


Then replace this into the upper 12v cig lighter socket

View attachment 137083
Then fit the cables supplied with the spade ends to the usb socket, and at the other ends, earth the black and crimp the red into the fuse buddy.

am I correct with this?
am I missing anything else?
Yes that will work.

Make sure to test the fuse .... so the fuse tap is installed the right way around.
 
@Dellmassive /all,
the 12v outlet on the upper dash tray is ideadly placed for a usb instead of a 12v outlet.
i know the standard 12v cigarette lighters are perm live, so I’m guessing it’s not just a straight swap to put something like a thlevel dual usb(top pic) in its place?
what I want to do is have a perm non live usb outlet rather than a perm live 12v with an added USB adapter (like the ainope one above). I am worried if I do it the second way I will forget to unplug it and end up with flat battery as I don’t drive the van every day.
any ideas appreciated
I’m thinking of doing this too! All I end up doing is shoving a usb plug into the “cigarette lighter” holder that’s up there.

A daft question if I may: if I took a feed from here to a wireless charger pad, is the charger drawing power when there is no phone on it? Or, should I look at making the USB socket an “ignition live” feed?
 
Brilliant thread! An “Idiot’s Drop-in Clinic” for people like me! Love it! Thanks @Dellmassive for taking time out to post a great guide at the beginning and popping in to give pointers to fellow members with their projects
 
A daft question if I may: if I took a feed from here to a wireless charger pad, is the charger drawing power when there is no phone on it? Or, should I look at making the USB socket an “ignition live” feed?
Not a daft question. It will draw some current even when idle. It’s possible to design chargers so that the quiescent current is diminishingly small and can be ignored. However most of chargers out there are just made cheaply and will drain the battery eventually - but how quickly is the question.

Your best bet is to measure unless you manage to find one that lists low quiescent current in the data sheet. If the current is in the range of max 10mA I wouldn’t worry about it too much, anything more I would either use ignition live or fit an additional switch to have it on/off just when needed.

Having said that, I’ve kept USB twin socket cig plug in top socket all the time… it’s just that anything permanently installed needs little bit more consideration as it’s not so easy to just pop the socket off if you know you’re not going to drive for a while
 
Not a daft question. It will draw some current even when idle. It’s possible to design chargers so that the quiescent current is diminishingly small and can be ignored. However most of chargers out there are just made cheaply and will drain the battery eventually - but how quickly is the question.

Your best bet is to measure unless you manage to find one that lists low quiescent current in the data sheet. If the current is in the range of max 10mA I wouldn’t worry about it too much, anything more I would either use ignition live or fit an additional switch to have it on/off just when needed.

Having said that, I’ve kept USB twin socket cig plug in top socket all the time… it’s just that anything permanently installed needs little bit more consideration as it’s not so easy to just pop the socket off if you know you’re not going to drive for a while
Thanks for this! I had a suspicion that it might have a “trickle” draw. Time to go back through this thread and look at making it an “ignition live” or, better still, getting an ignition live feed and introducing a new USB feed in a different location.

Thanks again for your response
 
Thanks for this! I had a suspicion that it might have a “trickle” draw. Time to go back through this thread and look at making it an “ignition live” or, better still, getting an ignition live feed and introducing a new USB feed in a different location.

Thanks again for your response
A small amount of trickle draw is not necessarily bad, it might take literally months to pull enough to make a van not start. It’s all about how much it pulls and how often you drive / charge the van.
 
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Thanks for this! I had a suspicion that it might have a “trickle” draw. Time to go back through this thread and look at making it an “ignition live” or, better still, getting an ignition live feed and introducing a new USB feed in a different location.

Thanks again for your response
That is what im trying to achieve @JOG
The 12v is normally perm live. By using the fuse buddy it will only be ignition live if put in the correct place. I had got my head around that bit just wanted someone to confirm i was correct with wiring connections elsewhere.

I want to do it this way coz i know what I'm like and forget to unplug a push in adapter from a perm live feed
 
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