Installing 12v Socket /s - How Its Done -

I’d also like to install this USB charger that doesn’t draw power when the ignition is off.

⬆ Thlevel USB C Car Charger Socket Dual USB Outlet PD & QC 3.0 Fast Car Charger Socket

I've noticed the battery level on my phone (iPhone XS Max) often decreases when plugged into these USB ports – not always, but more often than not. For example, I'll start a journey with 33% battery level and finish my 30-min journey with 28% battery life, despite "charging" the entire time.

What might be the reason for this?

I believe that the 36W produced by the USB Type-C should be enough to charge the phone, despite the screen being on for maps. If I remember correctly, iPhone can only utilise a maximum of 20W when charging. Is it possible that this socket would sometimes provide less wattage for some reason?

Any help would be appreciated, I really need a reliable way to stop my phone from running flat as I rely on it for navigation!
 
Got a pic?

Sure. Below is a screenshot from the battery reporting screen on my phone; the light green backgrounds show when the phone was plugged into power.

The green slither that I've pointed to (with a blue arrow) was a 30-minute drive with the phone plugged into the 36W USB Type-C port – this shows how the battery level decreased during this time. The drive was mostly A roads, so no stop-start. I use the Waze app for navigation, and stream music via bluetooth to the T6 headunit.

1684835600795.png

Here's the setup:
IMG_2821 copy.jpeg

It's powered via a fuse-tap from SC35 (the top one in the photo below):

1684836537919.jpeg
 
Sure. Below is a screenshot from the battery reporting screen on my phone; the light green backgrounds show when the phone was plugged into power.

The green slither that I've pointed to (with a blue arrow) was a 30-minute drive with the phone plugged into the 36W USB Type-C port – this shows how the battery level decreased during this time. The drive was mostly A roads, so no stop-start. I use the Waze app for navigation, and stream music via bluetooth to the T6 headunit.

View attachment 199931

Here's the setup:
View attachment 199932

It's powered via a fuse-tap from SC35 (the top one in the photo below):

View attachment 199934
Looking at your chart and plots it would indicate that the charger is the issue, not providing power that the phone needs.

I'd look at replacing that with a better quality one.?

Your other bits look good
 
Sure. Below is a screenshot from the battery reporting screen on my phone; the light green backgrounds show when the phone was plugged into power.

The green slither that I've pointed to (with a blue arrow) was a 30-minute drive with the phone plugged into the 36W USB Type-C port – this shows how the battery level decreased during this time. The drive was mostly A roads, so no stop-start. I use the Waze app for navigation, and stream music via bluetooth to the T6 headunit.

View attachment 199931

Here's the setup:
View attachment 199932

It's powered via a fuse-tap from SC35 (the top one in the photo below):

View attachment 199934
Can I ask what you did with the original 12v socket? Did you just leave it below the level of the dash? Did you consider using the OEM wiring? It's tricky to see but how thick are those red live wires? Resistance all adds up, and if the length of red live plus a low current output, plus a long power lead add up to a large resistance then 12v (14.4v when driving) will drop considerably. Try asking if anyone locally has a loop current meter, to measure what is flowing through the red live wire.
 
Have you tried the cable that came with the phone? Your anker cable should be good but I had a same issue with cheap charger cables. Used the real one and works fine. Worth a shot?
 
A few going points here ...

Assuming you have a good 0v chassis connection.

And assuming you have a good decent cable gauge from the fuse tap to the usb charger.

Poor connection or thin wire will cause volt drop under load that will cause the charger to drop in power.
 
Slightly off topic but does anyone know the best way of protecting or covering the rear spade connections when a 12v socket is installed? I was looking to install some into some panels where there is insulation and thought it best to cover or protect them.
 
Slightly off topic but does anyone know the best way of protecting or covering the rear spade connections when a 12v socket is installed? I was looking to install some into some panels where there is insulation and thought it best to cover or protect them.
Heatshrink
 
Planning to install a dedicated fridge outlet in the back of my T6 Beach and unsure of what cable size to use.
Length of cable and voltage drop off will be quite relevant.
Leisure battery under seat to new 12v socket in rear approx. 2m length.
Fridge will be installed on a pull out kitchen drawer the runners of which are 1118mm full extension slides (rated 250kg) the fridge will sit at the rear of this drawer so i'll estimate another 2m with cable to the fridge. Cable to the fridge will sit inside a cable chain / drag chain so it guides it nicely in and out without getting pinched.
Fridge Alpicool CX30
Average 45W
Fuse 15A
Current max 3,75A at startup then drops off.

Will 2,5mm2 cross sectional wire be enough, or should i go higher?


Kitchen drawer.jpg
IMG_4148.jpg
 
Are you running both positive and negative cables the same way - ie 8m total cable length?
Apical spec for CX30 is 60W ie 5A nominal - so you should probably use that figure.
12 volt planet provide a voltage drop calculator
Voltage Drop Calculator | 12 Volt Planet Cable Calculator

Which suggests it’s all ok with 2.5mm cable. Don’t forget to fuse at the leisure battery end as well.

Simon
 
Are you running both positive and negative cables the same way - ie 8m total cable length?
Apical spec for CX30 is 60W ie 5A nominal - so you should probably use that figure.
12 volt planet provide a voltage drop calculator
Voltage Drop Calculator | 12 Volt Planet Cable Calculator

Which suggests it’s all ok with 2.5mm cable. Don’t forget to fuse at the leisure battery end as well.

Simon
Thanks,
I didn't think to double my estimated length to 8m but of course this is the full circuit back to the earth.
Yes, was planning a fuse at the leisure battery.
Was thinking one of these in-line fuses but i see it has a 12AWG/3.3mm2 cable installed. would that be frowned upon in the electrical world that you downsize the cable after the fuse?
35-647_xxl_1.jpg
 
Will the negative at the socket connect to the nearest grounding stud on the van or run back to the leisure battery? You can reduce voltage drop and potentially save money on cabling this way. The van body is a much less resistive conductor.
 
Will the negative at the socket connect to the nearest grounding stud on the van or run back to the leisure battery? You can reduce voltage drop and potentially save money on cabling this way. The van body is a much less resistive conductor.
I guess I could do it either way.
But if its considered better to ground it beside the new 12v outlet closer to the fridge (and reduces the total circuit length) then I can try and find a grounding point there?
 
There is a list of earth points here.
you'll need VIP membership to access these downloads but it's money well spent in the long run. It helps to keep this valuable forum going too.
 
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