[Guide] How To Retrofit MFSW And Cruise Control To T6 Eu6 2019 Startline - Also Hacking DSG Paddles For CCS

[T6Bob32]

Have a look at post #111 in this thread by mr.needs it contains good info with regards to parts required. I ordered them from ebay

Parts used:
MWFS - 7E0 419 091 M
Wiring kit - From Kufatec
Repair wire 1 - 000 979 009 E (T41 connector end)
Repair wire 2 - 000 979 026 E (T10 connector end)
0.5mm2 wire to connect the repair wires together
Tesa wiring loom fabric tape

 

[Dundee_Kev]

Oh my, I never even noticed that post.

Thanks for your help

 

[Mark72]

Hi,

I'm just about to fit mfsw with cruise. I've got the correct wheel and loom, just need to get the 3 repair wires.

Does anyone know the correct part numbers for them, or the correct terminal sizes? I don't want to have the van immobilised due to having the wrong terminals.

Many thanks

Travelin Lite have the wiring

 

[Dundee_Kev]

Hi,

Quick question, should the mfsw work even before I fit the wire to the T10 connector?

I've got my wheel fitted, popped the wire to light switch and bcm and coded the bcm. But none of the buttons illuminate or work. I realise the cruise won't work as that wire isn't fitted yet.

Van is startline, no cruise fitted, 2018 adblue model.

Thanks in advance for any info

 

[Dundee_Kev]

Ok, to answer my own question. Yes the wheel will work without the cruise control wire installed.

My wheel works fine. I went and tested the continuity through the clock spring followed by the wire back to the light switch. All ok. Popped open the bcm multiplug to check. Discovered some idiot (me! ) had put the wire into pin 35 and not 36!!

Just need time to get the final wire done and will be a happy chap.

 

[Brucey]

I've fitted cruise following this gide and everything is working as expected. I've just done a scan for an unrelated EML fault and found a pile of cruise related faults.

Could anyone point me in the direction of the cause for this please?

From VCDS -

25126 - Implausible Data Received from ESP Control Module

U0416 00 [040] - -

Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

Freeze Frame:

Fault Status: 00000001

Fault Priority: 6

Fault Frequency: 18

Mileage: 101527 km

Date: 2073.01.14

Time: 00:28:45



Engine RPM: 0.00 /min

Normed load value: 0.0 %

Vehicle speed: 0 km/h

Coolant temperature: 28 °C

Intake air temperature: 19 °C

Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar

Voltage terminal 30: 11.703 V

Unlearning counter according OBD: 30

Acceleration: 0.000 m/s²

Vehicle speed: 0 km/h

Cruise Control System (CCS): status: passive

Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-ACC is active despite EPB deceleration: No

Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-ACC active: although TSK passive: No

Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-Start off or stop request at stopping speed not set: No

Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-Start off and stop request sent simultaneously: No

Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-ACC active: although limiter active: No

Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-ACC reactivates itself after locking: No

Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-ACC sends undefined signals: No

Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-ACC active although main switch off: No

Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-ACC is active despite driver braking: No

Drivetrain coordinator: ACC fault status-ACC is active despite ESP/ASR passive sampling: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ABS intervention: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ESP intervention: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-EDL intervention: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ASR intervention: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-MSR intervention: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-Driver braking: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-HDC active: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ESP invokes TSK braking: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-EPB active: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ASP intervention: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ADS intervention: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-Stopping distance reduction2 warning jolt: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ESP sampled passive (ESP off): No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ASR sampled passive (ASR off): No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ESP recognizes vehicle at rest: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake function status-ACC stopping distance control active: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-Deceleration sensor not available: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-Deceleration sensor malfunction: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-ESP system error: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-ESP system malfunction due to inaccurate engine torque: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-ESP indicates TSK message consistency error: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-TSK/ESP handshake error: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-ESP automatic engagement malfunction: No

Drivetrain coordinator: brake fault status-Brake light implausible: No

 

[mmi]

I've just done a scan for an unrelated EML fault and found a pile of cruise related faults.

Could anyone point me in the direction of the cause for this please?

Steering angle sensor?
Please post full unedited VCDS Auto-Scan a) before any modifications and b) the current.

 

[Brucey]

Please see attached.

Any help much appreciated.

 

[mmi]

Please see attached.

Any help much appreciated.

Set Byte 17, Bit 7 Tells BCM CCS is installed

Coding: E0FC793A0A212013002809742C2B8CD50F04710F60464D60320400230840
Looks like you have missed a bit - BCM(09) - byte 17, bit 7 should be set to "1" (ticked). (Thus byte 17 should come "84", now "04").
Please try the above to see if things improve.

 

[dshelton999]

2017 T6 Startline (no previous cruise) but has radar.

HI,

I have followed the post all the way through and tried to solve my issue as much as possible.
I have a steering wheel from a golf mk7 with adaptive cruise buttons.
I have installed all the relevent cables in the correct places but have two issues.

1st issue, horn doesn't work. The airbag harness only has 4 cables in the mfsw clip. Can I add a cable to it and where does it go?

2nd issue, steering buttons that work on left, volume buttons
On right, skip buttons, mfd buttons but they change the radio channel, phone buttons.

I cant access the mfd with any of the buttons but I can from the stalk.

All the cruise buttons are dead. The up and down buttons on the right don't do anything but show as working when checked via obdeleven.

Thanks
Dan

 

[Robert]

What's your buttons part number?
Red or white illumination?

 

[dshelton999]

What's your buttons part number?
Red or white illumination?

Not sure on part number of the buttons but I will go and check.
They light up white

 

[Robert]

Can you confirm that all wires are present in you new setup as per wiring diagram below.

This combined wiring diagram should be helpful and should eliminate any potential confusion.
View attachment 194253

@Dusankooo can you clear all of your old faults and do another fresh Autoscan and post it here?

Additionally it looks like you have used 7E0959442A as you buttons.
And these are for the Adaptive Cruise Control. Send me PM and I could help you with another retrofit by the way.

 

[Jero Garcia]

Hello to everyone from Spain, I’ve been reading all post until I get working my ccs , so I want to say thanks to all of u and add my small contribution,

5G0 959 442P (very easy to find)

this is my button configuration works perfectly on my euro 6 t6 with bcm 090 illumination is in white color but ccs works perfect mfd and radio controls work fine

Just use 5 pin loom to connect

clock spring join wire, pin 7 (brown) - join wire that goes to pin 1 on black connector


clock spring add wire, pin 8 (removed blue/white) - pin 5 black connector


clock spring add wire pin 09 - goes to pin 3 black connector clock spring add wire pin 10 - goes to pin 2 black connector black connector pin 4 - (spade terminal)

Sorry for my English by the way

 

[Matt H 1972]

Fitting and Wiring up the Parts



Before you do anything, get your coding tool of choice and do a full systems scan (VCDS auto scan) and save it. This could make future trouble shooting so much easier. Also it is worthwhile checking out and clearing any faults and after a short drive do another scan to make sure any important faults have gone.



1 - Remove the Steering Wheel



Disconnect the battery (remember you will not be able to open the tailgate to get at your tools) and allow 10 mins for any power to discharge.

Separate the top part of the plastic around the column and fold it back against the clocks.

Undo the 2 bolts behind the wheel and the one by the height adjuster then remove the bottom section.

Turn the wheel to 3 Oclock and lower it.

Use a small flat bladed screwdriver to slide the air bag retainers towards the centre of the wheel (a small mirror or camera phone may help)

Turn the wheel 180 degrees and do the other side.

Centre the wheel.

Pull the air bag out a bit and pull the connectors white clip out and squeeze the clip to the connector as you pull the connector from the clock spring.

Undo the M12 spline bolt and after marking its position on the shaft, lift off the wheel.

Try the new wheel for size to give you more enthusiasm for what's to come.



Here is a video but no need to remove the top plastic from the fabric.

2 - Disconnect the Wiring Connector from the Stalks T41



Ensure that the clock spring is not moved by putting some tape on it. There is a small window that shows you when it is centred.

Undo the single bolt holding the stalks clamp.

Pull the stalks towards you a little then pull the connectors retainer up and release the connector, the stalks and clock spring will come off together.



3 - Get Access to the BCM connector



Push in the light switch and turn it to the side light position then pull out the switch and disconnect the connector.

Remove the bolt from within the switch housing and remove the housing - take care with the 2 clips.

The 2 trim panels under the steering column can be unclipped and removed.

Rather than trying to get at the connector from below it is easier from above so next the clocks need removing.

Using trim removers, unclip and remove the air vents either side of the clocks and the clocks surround (watch out for the 5 tiny condoms on the pegs).

Remove the 2 bolts at the bottom of the clocks and unclip the blue connector (I used a small screwdriver to lift the orange retainer) before removing the clocks.

From underneath, reach up above the pedals and find the two connectors on the BCM. The white one nearer to the passenger side is the one you want. Press in the bit stopping the retainer lifting and lift the retainer to remove the connector.

Push the connector up into where the clocks were.

From above, take off the band around the wires and plastic where the wires enter the connector. It can be rolled onto the loom and later rolled back.

Press in the two retainers and slide off the white cover away from the loom.

The black part, with the pins, is in two parts. slide them apart to get at the pins.



Here is a video

And another but for a T5 so only use it to get an idea of what things look like

4 - Get Access to the T10 connector under the battery



If you are lucky and already have CCS then you can skip this otherwise putting the wire into the T10 connector is the hardest part of the installation.

Remove the battery and the covers below it.

There you will find an enormous bunch of wires and connectors along with the ECU. Of course the T10 connector is right at the bottom.

I found the easiest way to get at it was to disconnect all the connector above it first. There are two black connectors so be careful. The one you want should have a black and yellow wire that it connects to the ECU pin 44 with. I also removed the glove box to help with the routing of the wire.



5 - Remove Redundant Wires from the Stalks Connector T41



The horn will now be operated by the LIN Bus so the brown and yellow wire has to be removed from pin 11 and insulated. This stops the horn sounding when the CCS on/off button is pressed.



If you have CCS on the stalks, and are not changing them to non CCS stalks, remove the six stalk CCS wires from pins 26 to 31 and insulate them. Remove the black and yellow CCS wire from pin 45 on the BCM connector T73b.



6 - Install the 3 Repair Wires



First Run two wires from the stalks connector T41 pins 9 and 10 to the pedal area.

If you already have CCS, reuse the black and yellow wire from pin 26 or 29 (they are connected) for pin 11 and another disconnected wire (I used the blue wire from pin 31 don't use the other black and yellow wire) for pin 11 (wires from pins 9 and 11 should now already be installed).

Pin 9 wire needs splicing into the black wire on the light switch connector. Take extra care with this one as if it fails your lights may go out.

Pin 10 wire needs splicing into the wire for pin 36 in the BCM connector T73b

Pin 11 wire goes to pin 1 of the T10 connector under the battery. I routed it through a blanked hole near the wheel arch, that I think would be used for the bonnet release cable on LHD vans. Then I drilled a hole to get to the T10 connector. The loom I had for the old CCS kit just reached the T10 connector.



7 - Put it All Back Together



Reassemble everything by reversing what you did before. Take care with these -

Wires are cable tied and protected where needed.

The clock spring is still centred by checking the window.

The wheels are straight and the new wheel is straight.

The air bag just pushes into place but make sure the wires underneath are not trapped.

The last step is to reconnect the battery.

Hi, newbie here & just about to take on fitting a MFSW and hopefully cruise to my 2017 EU6 T6 startline. Before I start cutting into the main harness can I just double check some things please? Firstly I have managed to get a MFSW & airbag from another 2017 EU6 T6 startline that had the MFSW from the factory. (The donor van had the MFSW but not cruise) The only thing I didn’t take/ swap was the indicator/wiper stalks. My van has the trip/reset on the wiper side (was this a mistake not swapping these over?) I’m quite happy to run/splice all of the wires myself so just want to check do I need to do anything extra/different due to my wiper stalk having the trip/reset buttons? Also as I will be running/connecting the wires myself and then getting a friend of a friend with VCDS to do the coding, will it cause any errors if I connect all 3 wires required at both ends now but not have the coding done until a bit later? I know the horn won’t work but that’s not a major issue as van is on my drive as I am converting it to a camper/day van. Sorry for the long ask, but so many questions running round my head now I have entered the world of T6. Thanks in advance to any replies

 

[T6_FunBus]

Hi, newbie here & just about to take on fitting a MFSW and hopefully cruise to my 2017 EU6 T6 startline. Before I start cutting into the main harness can I just double check some things please? Firstly I have managed to get a MFSW & airbag from another 2017 EU6 T6 startline that had the MFSW from the factory. (The donor van had the MFSW but not cruise) The only thing I didn’t take/ swap was the indicator/wiper stalks. My van has the trip/reset on the wiper side (was this a mistake not swapping these over?) I’m quite happy to run/splice all of the wires myself so just want to check do I need to do anything extra/different due to my wiper stalk having the trip/reset buttons? Also as I will be running/connecting the wires myself and then getting a friend of a friend with VCDS to do the coding, will it cause any errors if I connect all 3 wires required at both ends now but not have the coding done until a bit later? I know the horn won’t work but that’s not a major issue as van is on my drive as I am converting it to a camper/day van. Sorry for the long ask, but so many questions running round my head now I have entered the world of T6. Thanks in advance to any replies

It’s fine with the stalk buttons, I still have mine and tbh forgot it even had buttons.

If you press the stalk buttons it will disable the mfsw buttons once coded, but cycle the ignition and mfsw cluster buttons will be working again.

Basically when the wheel is fitted and codes just forget the stalk buttons are there like i have

You can code it later.

There is a useful diagram on here somewhere, make sure you have the correct loom for the wheel that connects to the connector on the clock spring. Mine had a wire in the wrong place and gave us the runaround for quite a while.

 

[Matt H 1972]

It’s fine with the stalk buttons, I still have mine and tbh forgot it even had buttons.

If you press the stalk buttons it will disable the mfsw buttons once coded, but cycle the ignition and mfsw cluster buttons will be working again.

Basically when the wheel is fitted and codes just forget the stalk buttons are there like i have

You can code it later.

There is a useful diagram on here somewhere, make sure you have the correct loom for the wheel that connects to the connector on the clock spring. Mine had a wire in the wrong place and gave us the runaround for quite a while.

Thanks for the reply. I assume even if I buy the repair kit cables that the one that goes to the connections under the battery will need to be extended as I can only seem to find cables 1m long which won’t be enough. Also just confirming that until coded in with VCDS the horn won’t work? I should have the correct harness as I took the wheel/airbag & airbag harness it from an identical van at work from the same year it’s just that van the donor van had a MFSW from the factory and my van didn’t.

 

[T6_FunBus]

Sounds like you’ve got what you need then. Maybe just make your own repair wire, I am sure one of the guys on here like @Dav-Tec can let you know what connector you need.

I’m not 100% but if you fit with your old loom, the horn should work normal, if you fit with the new loom it will need coding.

 

[Matt H 1972]

Sounds like you’ve got what you need then. Maybe just make your own repair wire, I am sure one of the guys on here like @Dav-Tec can let you know what connector you need.

I’m not 100% but if you fit with your old loom, the horn should work normal, if you fit with the new loom it will need coding.

Thanks yes that is what is happening. Long story short there was a start line van the same as my van at work but it had an MFSW about to be written off. So I swooped in with my spanner’s to swap over the wheel & airbag. I can go back and retrieve my original airbag loom to make the horn work and swap the wiper stalks but it’s a 4 hr round trip so as you have confirmed I don’t need to swap the stalks and I can manage without the horn as not using the van I will stay with what I have. Looks like I will be busy running some wires next weekend. Thanks for all of your help and advice it is really appreciated. Apologies for all the questions and long posts but I am a details kind of guy

 

[T6_FunBus]

Thanks yes that is what is happening. Long story short there was a start line van the same as my van at work but it had an MFSW about to be written off. So I swooped in with my spanner’s to swap over the wheel & airbag. I can go back and retrieve my original airbag loom to make the horn work and swap the wiper stalks but it’s a 4 hr round trip so as you have confirmed I don’t need to swap the stalks and I can manage without the horn as not using the van I will stay with what I have. Looks like I will be busy running some wires next weekend. Thanks for all of your help and advice it is really appreciated. Apologies for all the questions and long posts but I am a details kind of guy

All good, good luck with the fit MFSW changes the van loads, makes it so much nicer to drive and use, just had a thought actually about something, I’ll send you a pm.