Smikas

New Member
Hi All

I am new to the forum and to the Transporter range! I have been doing a fair bit of reading and need a little advice. In 3 weeks time I will be putting the van in the garage and starting stage 1 of a 3 year, 3 stage process:
Stage 1 - Insulation, lining and electrics (fitted inside an MDF bench on O/S wheel arch)
Stage 2 - Full width rib bed and fridge
Stage 3 - Add pop top

I have done lots electrical setups over the years, though not with newer vehicles, and never with 12v and 240v

Vehicle: 2018 2.0 diesel T6 T28 Transporter panel van - Highline DSG with Bluemotion tech (Euro 6)
Requirements: Leisure battery addition, and 240v hookup power
Electrical parts on order:
  • Kiravans leisure battery (going under the passenger seat)
  • SARGENT EC155/EC50 power management system
  • CTEK D250SA Dual DC-DC Battery to Battery Charger
  • 16mm cable and 20mm corrugated conduit, as well as Midi fuse holders and 80 amp fuses,crimp terminals, heat shrink etc. and a 12v isolator switch. As well as 2.5mm 20amp 3 core blue cable for the hookup internals and a port for under the bonnet
  • Reel of 2.5mm cable red, reel of 2.5mm cable black and connectors and an earth bar bus terminal
  • Battery terminal connectors with 8mm posts for Aux items
  • Some CBE sockets inc twin USB
  • 8 x Dimmable LED lights and remote
  • 300w inverter for 12v to 240v power
Assumptions:

12V setup
  • 16mm cable inside conduit from the under-bonnet battery to the live on the leisure battery under passenger seat - with an 80 amp midi fuse (under the bonnet) and the CTEK D250SA (under the passenger seat) in between the 2 batteries.
  • 16mm good earth to the chassis
  • 16mm cable leisure battery to the Sargent EC155 - with the 12v isolator switch inline to isolate power to all electrics in the back of the van. All electrics run off red (live) and black (earth) 2.5mm cable
  • Earth bus bar wired to chassis to take all 12v electrical items
  • 300w inverter for 12v to 240v power (one 3 pin 240v socket sunk into MDF box)
240v setup
  • Under bonnet hookup connector, with blue 20amp cable in conduit to Sergent EC155 box
  • Sargent unit to 3 x 3 pin 240v sockets sunk into the MDF box

Questions:

  1. What amendments would you propose to my parts list or assumptions above?
  2. Do I need the earth bus bar as well as the Sargent unit? (on reflection maybe not)
  3. Will the CTEK D250SA charge the battery when the van is running?
  4. Do I need a different CTEC product to charge the leisure battery off the hookup (i.e. a Smartpass 120)? The D250SA does not appear to do this (I do have solar panels). Can I charge both batteries off this product without any other wires in my assumption? I have a CTEK MXS 5.0 trickle charger from mains to cigarette lighter for my other car. Could I simply use this in one of the 12V ports own a 3 pin plug? Or use the other cables to put on the battery?
  5. Should I fit a 12v cut off switch between the 2 batteries?
  6. What else have I missed?!
Thank you so much for your advice in advance! It is difficult to find anything that complete, understandable information.
Ian
 
You have thrown a lot of information at us there :)

I am not familiar with the Sargent PMS. To be honest, I am sceptical to what a PMS adds, as some limit your flexibility, but that's your choice.
Have you sketched this out schematically ? A picture paints a thousand words, and might help visualise it all.

Will have a think about your questions.

Pete
 
@travelvolts is your man! He will guide you in the right direction.

Personally Id get the Redarc DC to DC charger rather than the CTEK one. unless your thinking of fitting solar panels. but even then probably still go for a Redarc.
 
No experience of the Red Arc, but I have the CTEK 250SA and it performs well. As long as you have the ignition signal, it’ll charge when the engine is running. Gives the leisure battery a good charge so you can be off grid for longer.
 
I have the Ctek 250SA charger for charging while moving and a Victron for the solar side, along with a Westfalia branded mains charger. Whether having a multipurpose charger would have saved money I'm not sure, but didn't have the option as they were added at different stages, but the setup I have works extremely well.
 
Same approach here, but different components. I find you have more flexibility, and you don't have to find space for a single big unit.

Pete


I have the Ctek 250SA charger for charging while moving and a Victron for the solar side, along with a Westfalia branded mains charger. Whether having a multipurpose charger would have saved money I'm not sure, but didn't have the option as they were added at different stages, but the setup I have works extremely well.
 
Hi All

I am new to the forum and to the Transporter range! I have been doing a fair bit of reading and need a little advice. In 3 weeks time I will be putting the van in the garage and starting stage 1 of a 3 year, 3 stage process:
Stage 1 - Insulation, lining and electrics (fitted inside an MDF bench on O/S wheel arch)
Stage 2 - Full width rib bed and fridge
Stage 3 - Add pop top

I have done lots electrical setups over the years, though not with newer vehicles, and never with 12v and 240v

Vehicle: 2018 2.0 diesel T6 T28 Transporter panel van - Highline DSG with Bluemotion tech (Euro 6)
Requirements: Leisure battery addition, and 240v hookup power
Electrical parts on order:
  • Kiravans leisure battery (going under the passenger seat)
  • SARGENT EC155/EC50 power management system
  • CTEK D250SA Dual DC-DC Battery to Battery Charger
  • 16mm cable and 20mm corrugated conduit, as well as Midi fuse holders and 80 amp fuses,crimp terminals, heat shrink etc. and a 12v isolator switch. As well as 2.5mm 20amp 3 core blue cable for the hookup internals and a port for under the bonnet
  • Reel of 2.5mm cable red, reel of 2.5mm cable black and connectors and an earth bar bus terminal
  • Battery terminal connectors with 8mm posts for Aux items
  • Some CBE sockets inc twin USB
  • 8 x Dimmable LED lights and remote
  • 300w inverter for 12v to 240v power
Assumptions:

12V setup
  • 16mm cable inside conduit from the under-bonnet battery to the live on the leisure battery under passenger seat - with an 80 amp midi fuse (under the bonnet) and the CTEK D250SA (under the passenger seat) in between the 2 batteries.
  • 16mm good earth to the chassis
  • 16mm cable leisure battery to the Sargent EC155 - with the 12v isolator switch inline to isolate power to all electrics in the back of the van. All electrics run off red (live) and black (earth) 2.5mm cable
  • Earth bus bar wired to chassis to take all 12v electrical items
  • 300w inverter for 12v to 240v power (one 3 pin 240v socket sunk into MDF box)
240v setup
  • Under bonnet hookup connector, with blue 20amp cable in conduit to Sergent EC155 box
  • Sargent unit to 3 x 3 pin 240v sockets sunk into the MDF box

Questions:

  1. What amendments would you propose to my parts list or assumptions above?
  2. Do I need the earth bus bar as well as the Sargent unit? (on reflection maybe not)
  3. Will the CTEK D250SA charge the battery when the van is running?
  4. Do I need a different CTEC product to charge the leisure battery off the hookup (i.e. a Smartpass 120)? The D250SA does not appear to do this (I do have solar panels). Can I charge both batteries off this product without any other wires in my assumption? I have a CTEK MXS 5.0 trickle charger from mains to cigarette lighter for my other car. Could I simply use this in one of the 12V ports own a 3 pin plug? Or use the other cables to put on the battery?
  5. Should I fit a 12v cut off switch between the 2 batteries?
  6. What else have I missed?!
Thank you so much for your advice in advance! It is difficult to find anything that complete, understandable information.
Ian

@Smikas how are you getting on with your install?
 
Hello I'm a new member here and I'm looking for some help regarding my leisure battery in my transporter
 
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Have a look here....


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