[Guide] DC-DC Charger (for leisure battery) -- How I Done It --

LhHutch

Member
VIP Member
As above,
I chose option one.

Didnt have the option for monitoring at the time.... id imagine its like the cali panel you get in the top cubby hole.
I’ve found some info on these options but no mention of that panel but seems to be more dc-dc charge regulation than just SCR.
Anyone interested generally in all the options for the non standard bodybuilder options within the dealer configurator it’s here

https://bodybuilder-database.com/jc...f/9c7fc858-d792-0cf7-98bc-40a65a4aab76#page86

page 82 was the 2nd batt stuff but I’m thinking that will over complicate stuff? Do you agree?
 

t0mb0

Senior Member
VIP Member
T6 Guru
I’ve found some info on these options but no mention of that panel but seems to be more dc-dc charge regulation than just SCR.
Anyone interested generally in all the options for the non standard bodybuilder options within the dealer configurator it’s here

https://bodybuilder-database.com/jc...f/9c7fc858-d792-0cf7-98bc-40a65a4aab76#page86

page 82 was the 2nd batt stuff but I’m thinking that will over complicate stuff? Do you agree?

Given its devilishly clever response to a low'ish aux battery appears to be to crank up the alternator voltage and you're already planning to fit a DC-DC anyway, then it's almost certainly a bad idea.
 

zlea73

Member
VIP Member
Hi, finally completed first part of the installation , it took a while. Before I connect to the main battery I want to double check if it Is all right to connect the ground from the leisure battery and both grounds from the Isolated Victron 12 12 30 to the same earthing nut under the passenger seat.
Or alternately connect the two grounds from the Victron dc dc charger to the negative terminal connnector (3 nuts) on the leisure battery and from there send only one cable to the nut under the seat? As they are at same potential I don’t think it doesn’t make much of a difference, Or does it?
I did not use a negative busbar But I see it is used in many installations. Can I do whit-out it?

Tomorrow second part I will install the fuse box for the loads and the smart battery protect under the other seat (driver) and leave plenty of space for the diesel heater.

CD20CB6A-53DB-4D8B-A8F8-41D95614B6BA.jpeg

6B27416C-DDD1-4C32-8BEA-03B2B0D3107A.jpeg

8677B88D-EE02-4170-923C-1F776D344ED7.jpeg

D3737D17-94BC-45A6-A94A-1669D23A9AE5.jpeg

18E70733-19A2-4E9E-8A39-15FD4BAB1FCB.jpeg

image.jpg
 

Dellmassive

204 T32 DSG LWB SPORTLINE PV MY18
VCDS User
Moderator
VIP Member
T6 Legend
Hi, finally completed first part of the installation , it took a while. Before I connect to the main battery I want to double check if it Is all right to connect the ground from the leisure battery and both grounds from the Isolated Victron 12 12 30 to the same earthing nut under the passenger seat.
Or alternately connect the two grounds from the Victron dc dc charger to the negative terminal connnector (3 nuts) on the leisure battery and from there send only one cable to the nut under the seat? As they are at same potential I don’t think it doesn’t make much of a difference, Or does it?
I did not use a negative busbar But I see it is used in many installations. Can I do whit-out it?

Tomorrow second part I will install the fuse box for the loads and the smart battery protect under the other seat (driver) and leave plenty of space for the diesel heater.

View attachment 123839

View attachment 123840

View attachment 123841

View attachment 123842

View attachment 123843

View attachment 123844
you can do either - or.

as long as the Battery and DC-DC have very good metal connections and the cable gauge is adequate. .

from the pics it looks good.





.
 

zlea73

Member
VIP Member
Thanks for the reply I still have to add any load, I activated the Victron app I can see both dc dc charger and the battery protector. Everything seems working but I can’t see the charger led lights on either status or Bluetooth. Bluetooth is working as I connected and updated the firmware device.
I think may be a problem with the trigger signal coming from the H pin to the ignition.
I have a fused piggyback on top middle fuse box whit wire out the fuse box pointing to passenger side.
Looks all right but I don’t think is set correctly
 

albertramsbottom

New Member
@albertramsbottom

as you say most modern smart alternators are 100-200A.

you wont blow them up drawing 50A via a DC-DC charger. (50A Renogy or Redarc or Abelmail)(30A Victron)(20A ctek,Renogy)

but you could blow them up if you tried to:

pull above its rated max - ie 200A from a 180A T6 uprated alternator

or

pull high amps for an extended duration - ie 110A from a 140A T6 alternator for a long time.

( i done this years ago in an Astra van on a 3hr drive from London to Bristol. . . pumping out the bassline from a massive ICE install at night in summer . . so AC and lights on. . . lost electrical power and van dead . . towed to a garage. next day the garage said they had never seen a melted + Blued Alternator and couldnt explain it. - i knew why drawing 120A (1600w RMS Ice install on 2x L7 Kicker SoloBaric`s) for a long time - the alternator got super hot and cooked its self)



i think the standard T6 alternator is 140A and the bigger version is 180A - you can get the uprated one when you spec the factory leisure battery option.


++++++++++++

2x 110ah AGMs will take around 20A each to charge if they low.

a 1000w pure sine inverter will try to pull 100A, so it will draw 50A from the dc-dc (in engine running with a 50A dc-dc) and 50A out the batterys.

fridge/freezer, TV, lights - all all small loads and will draw under 10A

++++++++++++

a 50A dc-dc charger is no joke.

nor is a 1000W inverter . . .

you will be dealing with some very high currents - correct fusing and cable gauge will be critical or you will end up with melted fuse holders or even cable catching fire.


+++

Its me again :)

I dont understand what you said below
=======================================================================
a 1000w pure sine inverter will try to pull 100A, so it will draw 50A from the dc-dc (in engine running with a 50A dc-dc) and 50A out the batterys.
========================================================================

Why would a 1000 watt invertor try to pull 100amp? Surely it will only pull what I ask of it, i.e. TV, lights, laptop etc. I wouldn't try to run an electric kettle from it or a microwave

Sorry but I am still trying to create a wiring diagram for my two 110am sealed lead acid batteries, 50amp Renogy DC battery charger and a Renogy 1000 watt invertor

Cheers
 

albertramsbottom

New Member

Pete C

T30 102bhp converted to camper
VIP Member
T6 Legend
I think the assumption is that if you have a 1000W inverter, then if you use it at its maximum rating, then it will draw close to 100 A at 12v.
You are right, it will draw less current with lower loads.

Pete
 

Dellmassive

204 T32 DSG LWB SPORTLINE PV MY18
VCDS User
Moderator
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Thank you @Pete C yes thats the assumption.

If you install a 1kw inverter.... Then you need to wire and fuse for the max 1kw load....but in practice you will draw much less for most of the time.

The assumption is that on a 12v system... Every 1000w will pull 100A.


If you plan on using more than 1kw regular then moving to 24v is a better idea.
 

Steele T6

Member
I pickled up my Renogy DCC30S From the post office this morning. First impressions are good. It is well packaged, appears to be well made and comes with all the bits and bobs you’d expect to make installation straightforward. I ordered the optional Bluetooth module with mine.

As it comes in the boxes:
View attachment 88922
View attachment 88921

This is what comes in the box:
  • Charger
  • Bluetooth module (seperate option)
  • decent manual (much more in depth that the CTEK one)
  • Ignition wire to connect to a switched IGN feed
  • Temp sensor and cable
  • RS485 cable (for future development connecting to monitoring screen/app)
  • 4 x ring crimp connectors for the main input/output cables
  • some stickers
View attachment 88923


The charger has a neat cover on each end that goes over the main connections to keep them insulated away from debris etc. There is a decent set of fins on the bottom of the unit to distribute the heat and well labelled sockets for plugging in the IGN feed/temp sensor etc.
View attachment 88926View attachment 88927View attachment 88928

There was no tamperproof screws so i popped the rear cover off to expose the circuit board which looks like this. I didn’t go any further with disassembly.
View attachment 88929


Installation. I’m planning to put mine under the drivers seat to replace the CTEK250SE that is there just now. I also plan to replace my fuse box with a larger unit as I’ll be adding some additional USB outlets and a dedicated feed for my fridge. The Renogy is a fair bit bigger than the CTEK so i was planning to mount it onto a ply board, mounted vertically inside the seat base. I made a cardboard template the same size as the ply board will be and you can see how it might fit in the photos below. It will be quite tight so i may put the Renogy on one side of the board and have it rear facing as I can access it over Bluetooth, then place the Bluetooth module and fuse panel on the front of the board which will be visible from under the front of the drivers seat. The fuse box has an LED next to each feed to show if a fuse is blown so I should be able to see this and change a fuse without taking the seat off.

Renogy and fuse panel on same side of board - no room for Bluetooth module:
View attachment 88930

Renogy on one side, fuseboard and Bluetooth Module on the other:
View attachment 88931View attachment 88932

One thing to be aware of is cable entry. The covers mean cables enter as shown below. It should still fit where I plan to put it as there is enough room to make a nice curved entry off of the backboard (Ignore the top right black being in the wrong place this is just to show cable entry)
View attachment 88933

If it were to be placed on the floor under the seat it would look something like shown below. The cardboard template being the same size as the seat base.
View attachment 88935

I won’t be installing it for a few weeks as I have other priorities just now but will post an update when I do install it.
Great post. Do you have any pictures of the final install under the seat ? Are you pleased with the setup ?
 

Big.mac

Senior Member
VIP Member
T6 Guru
Great post. Do you have any pictures of the final install under the seat ? Are you pleased with the setup ?
Very pleased. Solar has been added since and it works like a dream. I leave the fridge running 24/7 and have had no problems with low voltage on either battery, even when leaving the van unused for several days (on a campsite).
Pictures in this post
Post in thread 'What Have You Done To Your Van Today?'
What Have You Done To Your Van Today?
 

Shortbread69

Member
VIP Member
T6 Pro
Think I might bite the bullet and replace my Sterling unit / Victron Solar controller for one of those Renogy. Need this trickle starter battery charge…
 

Dellmassive

204 T32 DSG LWB SPORTLINE PV MY18
VCDS User
Moderator
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T6 Legend
Renogy have updates there DC-DC MPPT ( RBc50D1S-G1 )

Now with Screw bolts instead of Studs . . and adjustable & programable power limiter. and battery setting parameters.


1630244046517.png1630244059430.png1630244071175.png


you can add the BT-2 Bluetooth unit . .


1630244099637.png

which links you to the APP..


1630244123503.png1630244134184.png1630244143669.png1630244152697.png


in this example i reduced the MAX output from 50A to 40A to keep the Anderson connectors cool . .

the output was varified with the Vic BMV..

1630244242000.png1630244261586.png
 

Sabre

Senior Member
VIP Member
T6 Legend
So, my leisure battery finally died. Now there's a real thought process on the potential cost/investment. There be changes ahoy!
 

Sabre

Senior Member
VIP Member
T6 Legend
Cheers Lee, I currently dont have a dc-dc charger so I knew this was gonna happen, 3 1/2 yrs aint too bad with a little split charge relay. BUt its time go.
I'd like to throw out a question tho... THe next part of this journey will need to lead towards a LiFePO4 but maybe not with the rest of this invest.
Theres 120w of solar, an MPPT coupling the 2 panels, a sargent EC150 centres everything, which has been OK, So given Im not really going to rip out the whole conversion just to rewire, is this going to be a massive headache to upgrade and what would you suggest?
I.m feeling a low level pain building in my bank account already! :-D
 

Dellmassive

204 T32 DSG LWB SPORTLINE PV MY18
VCDS User
Moderator
VIP Member
T6 Legend
@Sabre you need to check if you're solar MPPT has a Lifepo4 profile for that battery type.

Then you have two options... Either seperate dc-dc and solar.... Or combined unit.

The Renogy, ctek, redarc units can do combined.

Other popular DC-DC units are the Victron Orion.

Then on the battery front.. look at the new range of Lifepo4 battery that have fully integrated BMS with all the protection built in... Look at. Renogy, Poweroad, sterling lithium.




++++




Short cut --->



buy this Renogy DC-DC with solar mppt




1631688350196.png


++++


buy this 100ah lifepo4 battery



1631688283707.png
+++

you can add BT monitoring APP with this BT-2 unit





1631688596578.png


++++

here is 10% off for you . . .



I can get you a discount at Renogy United Kingdom




+++++



also availible here:








1631688487631.png



.....





1631688537497.png



....
 
Last edited:

Dellmassive

204 T32 DSG LWB SPORTLINE PV MY18
VCDS User
Moderator
VIP Member
T6 Legend
@Sabre

start here for Lifepo4 batteries:


and here:





see here for dc-dc chargers:






then see here for the rest:


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