Pauly’s pic looks like they were made with lugs to plastic weld them into place. Otherwise i wonder if just glueing them would be enough?
 
Pauly’s pic looks like they were made with lugs to plastic weld them into place. Otherwise i wonder if just glueing them would be enough?
I tried gluing. It doesn't stick! Tried contact glue, epoxy and super glue. Maybe I am not skilled enough in glues to be able to say for sure.
One option I haven't tried is dichloroethane (beware, dangerous). Also in my wishlist for buying, apparently a good substance to "weld" plastic on our cars.

I have another question - if VW are welding it into place, why don't they offer this part as a standalone part number??? Esp that there is an embossing on the standard step.
 
Just ordered my OEM heater. Also while looking at what's available on the market, I came up across this:

s-l1600.jpg
s-l1600 (4).jpg

At first, it looked exactly what I needed. Condition was new and price was lower than great price. But, taking a closer look something didn't seem right...:

s-l1600 (10).jpg
Two plugs instead of one? But wasn't this on the early T5a with webasto? (same plug colours as early T5).

Taking a closer look at the sticker...
s-l1600 (1).jpg

Unfortunately, the part number is hidden. But we can see it was made in 2022 (last year), so I think these are the first pics of the OEM Eberspacher setup for T6.1...
Unfortunately, remote control didn't come with this sale so it would have been a bad buy. I don't know if these are compatible with T6/T5.2, especially that they switched back to 2 plugs.

s-l1600 (4).jpg

s-l1600.jpg
 
I have quotes for the parts list from UK TPS and from a dealer in Germany. They both tell me a couple for different part numbers from our/my list;

Air Guide B-Pillar 7H5 819 655 should be 7ES 819 655
Warm Air Vent B-Pillar - Rear 7H5 819 383 A should be 7ES 819 383

So both 7ES instead of 7H5. I sent them both the VIN so I presume this is an update for a 2023 model Cali?

I have shaved a few pounds of the list from TPS but the German price, inc MwSt/VAT, is £120 less!! However to pay it nett in Germany and then add UK customs duty, VAT, shipping and handling makes it out of order :mad:
 
I would agree

7E0 normal chassis code
7E5 caravelle chassis code
7E7 california chassis code

never seen 7ES before so guess its a typo or misinterpreted
 
7H0 is also normal chassis code, majority of transporter parts will begin 7H0 or 7E0

normal parts that dont carry over to a caravelle will be given the 7E5 (and maybe 7H5 im not sure) code and any parts that dont carry over to a cali will be given 7E7 code (and maybe 7H7 again not sure)
 
Any 4-5kw heater (even chinese) will do (3kw might be fine as well - OEM is 3.5kw I think). There are 2 main advantages for installing non-OEM heater:
  1. You can place remote control close to where you sleep. It is not comfortable to control OEM heater at night due to the control panel being in the overhead front.

  2. There is no possibility to install High Altitude kit if you go OEM.
    If you drive into mountains, then this kit is important to have. I've camped at 2000m and above in my car.
    There is a plan to try installing Hohekit as in experiment, since I have the Eberspacher Hohekit already purchased but Eberspacher told me they can't give instructions how to install it on the VW OEM heater so definitely not an option to go for.
View attachment 187177
Thank you.

Thats useful information.

I have read through this thread and can't really understand about fitting the OEM ducting.

In particular:

With regard to the 2kW heaters do they line up with the ducting if I fit the OEM heater cage parts - just need a 60-90mm reducer. Or do I need other parts? On the intace side are people fitting the OEM pipework or the flexible pipes that come with the heater?

I am thinking that If I get a 4kW heater it is all a straight fit on the OEM kit intake and output if have the OEM cage ?

Finally I have seen a company that adapt the OEM Eber heater to work with the aftermarket Eber loom etc. Would this be the best heater size for the van ie 3kW (I was told) as a 4kW heater would be overkill?

Thank you (or anyone else) who can help me with this.
 
@Gsixty as you might have seen in this thread, fitting D2-type heater onto the original vents and cradle has been done before (see here for example). Personally, I would not do this as I don't like these reducer pipes etc. I think budget is what drives this decision.
Maybe someone can help you here by posting an aftermarket mounting bracket part link that could fit to the original vents - I've not seen or tried one. The original cradle costs a lot. If you can find an non OEM that fits right onto the rivets and positions the fan in the right way - you can reduce the cost a bit.

On the intace side are people fitting the OEM pipework or the flexible pipes that come with the heater?
Yes, I've seen mostly a case where intake is non original with the round vent drilled into the footstep.

I am thinking that If I get a 4kW heater it is all a straight fit on the OEM kit intake and output if have the OEM cage ?
Yes, 4-5kw is straight bolt on. If you can - go with this way and you won't have a headache.

Finally I have seen a company that adapt the OEM Eber heater to work with the aftermarket Eber loom etc. Would this be the best heater size for the van ie 3kW (I was told) as a 4kW heater would be overkill?
Two questions here. re fitting non OEM control to OEM eber - this is an interesting approach and I am sure can be done. The advantage of the original control is that it is connected via CAN to the car and has some special functions such as start to blow more air when you open a window or a door. I don't imply that these are absolutely essential features.
Second - 4kw is not an overkill. 5kw might be though. D3 that are fitted are close to 4KW (have a look at the sticker on this page). It just means it will work in smaller cycles to heat your van. I have seen many installations of non-OEM D4 implanted with original brackets and ducts. Everyone was very happy with this setup.
 
@Gsixty as you might have seen in this thread, fitting D2-type heater onto the original vents and cradle has been done before (see here for example). Personally, I would not do this as I don't like these reducer pipes etc. I think budget is what drives this decision.
Maybe someone can help you here by posting an aftermarket mounting bracket part link that could fit to the original vents - I've not seen or tried one. The original cradle costs a lot. If you can find an non OEM that fits right onto the rivets and positions the fan in the right way - you can reduce the cost a bit.


Yes, I've seen mostly a case where intake is non original with the round vent drilled into the footstep.


Yes, 4-5kw is straight bolt on. If you can - go with this way and you won't have a headache.


Two questions here. re fitting non OEM control to OEM eber - this is an interesting approach and I am sure can be done. The advantage of the original control is that it is connected via CAN to the car and has some special functions such as start to blow more air when you open a window or a door. I don't imply that these are absolutely essential features.
Second - 4kw is not an overkill. 5kw might be though. D3 that are fitted are close to 4KW (have a look at the sticker on this page). It just means it will work in smaller cycles to heat your van. I have seen many installations of non-OEM D4 implanted with original brackets and ducts. Everyone was very happy with this setup.
Thank you. Some information to digest. As far as I am aware the company that swaps the loom from the OEM heater to an aftermarket loom would make the OEM heater work as an aftermarket one so no canbus functions as far as I am aware.
I have had a search around the internet and I cant find anyone selling a NON OEM cradle that fits into the OEM b pillar ducting. I am a but surprised as I think it would sell a lot. Especially as I have found out that drilling up into the seat base should be an MOT fail if anyone spotted it.
 
Thank you. Some information to digest. As far as I am aware the company that swaps the loom from the OEM heater to an aftermarket loom would make the OEM heater work as an aftermarket one so no canbus functions as far as I am aware.
I have had a search around the internet and I cant find anyone selling a NON OEM cradle that fits into the OEM b pillar ducting. I am a but surprised as I think it would sell a lot. Especially as I have found out that drilling up into the seat base should be an MOT fail if anyone spotted it.
Drilling a hole = MoT fail? I have never heard of that. If you fit OEM the harness passes through the factory hole that is already there, other than that hole there is no need to drill through there whatsoever.
There is no market for non OEM mounting bracket for 4Kw sized heaters ( the vast majority of heaters fitted to our vans is 2Kw ) - they will fit in the Webasto mount but I do not know if they have kept exactly the same position to marry up to the ducting.
Don't go for a 4Kw unless you have a specific reason for needing a lot of heat quickly and no overnight background heating. You could always fit an older Webasto 3500ST or Evo 39 instead for lower output. Keep the heater out of the van electrical system then you can run it from your leisure battery and save draining your starter battery which is only 80% charged at best.
 
Check out this water heater using the OEM ducting, its nuts!



Not sure I’d be confident leaving it to heat up in the van unattended.
 
Here are the pics from the van with the VIN number I have. You can see that Cali, or at least T6.1 Beach, doesn’t have front step lights.

0E45B205-651D-4DE1-8EAE-364DC4F2AE22.jpeg

EF85ECDF-AB76-4C06-920E-30907CED7A91.jpeg
 
Back
Top