LIKEAT6
Member
I had the same bounce problem with the seal from eBay: VW T5 T5.1 T6 Transporter Door Seal 16 x 17mm OEM specs - Sounds like a Golf UK6
I tried trimming the seal ears to make more space for the seal to compress but it didn't work so I moved it to the next step on the door and now it's working perfectly: (lefthand door is a factory fitted caravelle, right hand was ebay seal, then cut down for better compression)
I tried trimming the seal ears to make more space for the seal to compress but it didn't work so I moved it to the next step on the door and now it's working perfectly: (lefthand door is a factory fitted caravelle, right hand was ebay seal, then cut down for better compression)
Guys’ n Gals,
After over a year gleaning seemingly endless useful information on this awesome forum this is my first post. Please treat me gently.
Like many I find the road noise and tinny, hollow sound on shutting the doors an annoyance, especially considering the cost of these vehicles.
I bought the x8r seals ready to fit to my Kombi and referred to their website instructions and video, other YouTube videos and t6f regarding fitting.
I discovered and read all of the four different threads on this site.
Many have had issues with closing the driver’s door after fitting the secondary seals, noting the door ‘bouncing’ open unless slammed shut. Some have suggested re-siting the seals. Some suppliers provide alternate siting instructions and pictures.
I spent some time looking around the door and ‘reveal’.
The way the door step curves up and in it would appear raising the seal siting from the very bottom of the door could allow the door to close more easily, but would not provide as good a water, grime, draught or road noise seal.
I also wonder whether siting the seal down the rear edge of the door onto the second step in could also be allowing a less airtight seal in order for the door to close more easily?
Owners of Californias or Caravelles have noted correct factory fitted siting of the seals and Insert Coin also mentioned a panel in the driver’s door.
I decided to check a friend’s California.
Please (hopefully) see the pics below.
These show not only factory siting of the driver’s door seal, but also, as per Insert Coin, a vent at the bottom rear of the door.
I also noticed Pauly’s post on the first page of this thread showing a line drawing of the parts of a Caravelle door. The vent appears (part no. 8), but strangely, on a left hand door that does not have the cutout for the fuel filler cap.
I’m wondering whether this vent is to release the build up of air pressure at the bottom and rear of the door between the inner and outer seals as the door is shut.
I would appreciate members thoughts and, if this could be the cause of the problem, whether it may be possible to retrofit the vent, or an alternative.
Thanks, Andy
After over a year gleaning seemingly endless useful information on this awesome forum this is my first post. Please treat me gently.
Like many I find the road noise and tinny, hollow sound on shutting the doors an annoyance, especially considering the cost of these vehicles.
I bought the x8r seals ready to fit to my Kombi and referred to their website instructions and video, other YouTube videos and t6f regarding fitting.
I discovered and read all of the four different threads on this site.
Many have had issues with closing the driver’s door after fitting the secondary seals, noting the door ‘bouncing’ open unless slammed shut. Some have suggested re-siting the seals. Some suppliers provide alternate siting instructions and pictures.
I spent some time looking around the door and ‘reveal’.
The way the door step curves up and in it would appear raising the seal siting from the very bottom of the door could allow the door to close more easily, but would not provide as good a water, grime, draught or road noise seal.
I also wonder whether siting the seal down the rear edge of the door onto the second step in could also be allowing a less airtight seal in order for the door to close more easily?
Owners of Californias or Caravelles have noted correct factory fitted siting of the seals and Insert Coin also mentioned a panel in the driver’s door.
I decided to check a friend’s California.
Please (hopefully) see the pics below.
These show not only factory siting of the driver’s door seal, but also, as per Insert Coin, a vent at the bottom rear of the door.
I also noticed Pauly’s post on the first page of this thread showing a line drawing of the parts of a Caravelle door. The vent appears (part no. 8), but strangely, on a left hand door that does not have the cutout for the fuel filler cap.
I’m wondering whether this vent is to release the build up of air pressure at the bottom and rear of the door between the inner and outer seals as the door is shut.
I would appreciate members thoughts and, if this could be the cause of the problem, whether it may be possible to retrofit the vent, or an alternative.
Thanks, Andy
Just to say when I bought my seals last year, I read and followed the YouTube instructions, and had issues closing the driver's door.
I then looked in the bottom of the box the seals came in and found the instructions (as above).
Refitted in the "new position" and problem solved.
@Greybeard if you're concerned that the air pressure is affecting the closure simply try each door with the other side open.
This is quite possible as the two helicopters I look after at work are essentially identical yet one requires a real slam to get the cockpit doors shut. This is only apparent when the door on the other side is closed.
This is quite possible as the two helicopters I look after at work are essentially identical yet one requires a real slam to get the cockpit doors shut. This is only apparent when the door on the other side is closed.
My first T6 mod. At just over £3 per door it's worked out great. Fitted in 10 minutes. Mine were 15mm x 15mm from eBay.
Fitted exactly the same way NIKGRIFF did in post 3.
D Shape Guard Seal Rubber
Fitted exactly the same way NIKGRIFF did in post 3.
D Shape Guard Seal Rubber
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Hi folks. Has anyone used these door seals for their tailgate? I've scanned through this thread but can't see much to suggest it has been done. I completed the door seals this weekend and they went on a treat (with the heatgun in hand to ensure the 3M tape was tacky enough) and sound amazing, but its the tailgate that is probably the most noisy? Can you seal this area? Thanks in advance!
The OEM tailgate seal seems to be very susceptible to leaks around the hinge area in heavy rain. Any modification such as an extra seal may reduce the compression on the OEM seal and cause water ingress.
It maybe you are hearing noise entering from the vents located left and right hand side under the bumper behind the rear wheels.
Mine are effectively blocked by furniture and lining so I’m not sure just how crucial they really are. The plastic vent is easy enough to pop out if you have the bumper off.
Rear wheel arch road noise is probably the easiest fix, this is covered in the forum if you haven’t already done it.
Transporter HQ do them.... I’m sure Vanstyle will too, or eBay
It just needs some time to ‘bed in’.
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