I really like there stuff, I've got a few different things. Unfortunately for my wallet there is a big chemical guys store 30mins drive away.
Wash & Wax Time . . . . . . But Which One And How?
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
Hi Folks has anyone on here used this stuff Lanoguard Vehicle Under-body and Chassis Care Kit for under the vehicle including Wheel arches, did a little research and its used in the marine industry. It states it stops corrosion and rust, water and salt proofs, wont evaporate and the best bit it takes 20 mins to apply so the wife will be happy!!! Ouch! that hurt...
Evening all. Just thought I’d throw my wash routine forward (admittedly this is how my beloved S3 was cared for) but my t6 will follow the same path....
Every 6 months ( beginning of autumn and spring) - full decontamination including tar, film, bug and fallout remover. Clay barred. 2 stage polish. 99 fusso wax coating.
Every 2 months - as above minus clay bar
Weekly maintenance wash - As above minus clay bar and wax
If you put the effort into the 6 and 2 monthly routine, the maintenance washes become easy.
I’ve used a lot of waxes but have settled (for now ) on soft99 fusso wax. It really is good stuff and I highly recommend it.
Every 6 months ( beginning of autumn and spring) - full decontamination including tar, film, bug and fallout remover. Clay barred. 2 stage polish. 99 fusso wax coating.
Every 2 months - as above minus clay bar
Weekly maintenance wash - As above minus clay bar and wax
If you put the effort into the 6 and 2 monthly routine, the maintenance washes become easy.
I’ve used a lot of waxes but have settled (for now ) on soft99 fusso wax. It really is good stuff and I highly recommend it.
You carry out a full decontamination followed by a 2 stage polish every 2 months?
I'd be worried there'll be no clearcoat left after a couple of years.
Then I guess you wax it every week as the tar remover will certainly strip any protective layer off?
Don't use a clay bar, unless you intend to machine polish!!!As dear as those buckets end up being, you do at the end see how they have done their job.
You’ll wonder how you ever lived without claybar
Essentially a clay bar is used (as the final part of a multistage decontamination process) to ensure the paintwork is contaminate free prior to Machine polishing. There are so many different grades of clay bar, clay mitts and clay blocks on the market to cater for varying levels of contamination, not to mention different levels of paint hardness depending on the vehicle manufacturer, in short it’s a bit of a mind field and potentially dangerous if you’re using the wrong type of clay. Clay bars will damage/marr your paint, after all, you are wiping an abrasive putty over your paintwork to pickup/dislodge surface embedded contaminates and if the clay doesn’t damage your paintwork, the pickup on the clay will! Plus when you are using a clay, the paintwork must be wet, so you won’t know you’ve damaged the paint until you’ve finished and dried the paintwork, revealing anything from heavy swirls to hairline scratches.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m all for people looking after their own cars and I’ll always be happy to pass on tips and advice, but when guys watch a few vids on YouTube, go out buy a snow foam lance and clay bar, they call themselves “a detailer“ it is a little worrying. I’ve seen so many cars in my 16 years experience to know a clay bar in the hands of someone who doesn’t know what they’re doing is only going to end badly. Please also consider, that just because you had a fairly pain free experience with a clay bar, that doesn’t necessarily mean your mate (who you advise “clay your car mate, it’s so easy!) will go out and buy the same clay bar, use on the same paint and have the same type of contamination as you.
If you want to keep on top of any contamination as part of your wash process, then get yourself a good tar and iron remover. After washing the vehicle, spray Tar remover on to the lower sections of the vehicle (where you would normally find tar spots) and leave to dwell, then spray again and wipe over with a clean microfibre cloth, then rinse. repeat this process panel by panel, avoid spraying on to unpainted plastic mouldings And trim as it can sometimes stain. Then spray the vehicle with iron remover, if it’s a warm day do a panel at a time and ensure the product doesn‘t dry. Also avoid using in direct sunlight. Leave to dwell until you see evidence of the chemical reaction (purple runs) between the iron remover and the metal particles, then rinse. Ok this will not remove 100% of your paint work’s contamination, but it’s a much safer option.
Hope this helps?
needsmust
Member
Thorough reply Clydiee, thanks.
I‘ve only ever clayed my Abarth 595, so not much surface area. I’ll certainly try some iron-x or similar next time.
My clay has only ever made that lovely frictionless finish. Used Meguires with quick detailer to lube and always been pleased. As soon as it gets contaminated it’s relegated to windows.
I‘m unlikely to recommend buying a clay bar to anyone; they’ll think I’m some sort of OCD weirdo.
I‘ve only ever clayed my Abarth 595, so not much surface area. I’ll certainly try some iron-x or similar next time.
My clay has only ever made that lovely frictionless finish. Used Meguires with quick detailer to lube and always been pleased. As soon as it gets contaminated it’s relegated to windows.
I‘m unlikely to recommend buying a clay bar to anyone; they’ll think I’m some sort of OCD weirdo.
Great thread. So I’m starting to accumulate some products and the Mrs is getting me one of those Argos DA polishers. I’m thinking that I may need a new backing plate and pads for it. My chestnut T6 looks fine until light hits it revealing the worst swirls I have ever seen. What I’m wondering is what polish to go for? Do I need to essentially go down through the grades or at least two stages?? Any recommendations for pads and polish great fully received.
Have a look at Car Care Products | Detailing Products UK | Clean Your Car
I live near to them so popped in before I attacked my red Audi with the buffing machine. Very knowledgeable. Told him what I was doing and he chose the pad and compound for my paint type and gave me some tips.
Did my 15 year old S4 and it came out like a new car. No swirls visible or anything.
I’m going to do the van when the weather gets better, but I’ll be off to those guys again and letting them decide what I need to use.
I used to use DoDo wax but using Wowo's crystal sealant was a revelation
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Washed the bus for the first time in a while. Mrs RosscoPCole normally takes it to the local hand wash place. I noticed a few black steaks on the bottom half wrap and tried some Fenwicks streak remover, but to no avail.
They are difficult to see, but if you look close there are vertical dark lines.
Any suggestions on how to remove them safely without damaging the wrap?
They are difficult to see, but if you look close there are vertical dark lines.Any suggestions on how to remove them safely without damaging the wrap?
