Night Heater location - internal or external??
- Thread starter hoggle
- Start date
This is a chinese 2kW heater fitted to the California heater mount that is now fitted beneath my van.
I had to add some spacers between the cradle and the heater to centralise the inlet/outlet with the california ducts, then used silicone hose reducers to join them together.
Once fitted beneath the driver's seat and with the van underguards refitted it is out of the worst of the weather, no problems in over a year.
I coated the circuit board with a spray on plastic PCB conformal coating, and sprayed the casing black to both protect from corrosion and try to get some more heat out of it.
I had to add some spacers between the cradle and the heater to centralise the inlet/outlet with the california ducts, then used silicone hose reducers to join them together.
Once fitted beneath the driver's seat and with the van underguards refitted it is out of the worst of the weather, no problems in over a year.
I coated the circuit board with a spray on plastic PCB conformal coating, and sprayed the casing black to both protect from corrosion and try to get some more heat out of it.
I managed to get myself one of the true 2Kw heater which are a good deal smaller in length at 330mm. I now intend to mount the heater under the driver's seat using a stainless steel turret. I can see the turrets come in different depths. e.g. 30mm , 50mm 75mm. Can anyone recommend the best turret depth I should get? P.s I have a VW T6 obviously
You don't need a flanged mount if you are going straight onto the steel floor - the flanged type are more for when you are going through a wood floor etc that is laid over the van floor hence the different size of the flange. A flat plate mount will suffice.
I had to make a flanged mount for my old Merc bus with a 13cm flange as it had a double floor.
I had to make a flanged mount for my old Merc bus with a 13cm flange as it had a double floor.
ah OK. I thought I would need a flanged plate because the steel floor isn't very even where it is to be mounted. I will have a look at that and could save myself the cost of a plate then.
On a corrugated floor you only need a flat plate of a size to bridge the corrugations, the gaps being filled with sealant. Hole cutting is also much easier without a flange also as you only need 28/30mm holes for the exhaust and combustion ports which can be done with a cone drill rather than cutting a great big hole for a flanged mount. There is a tool that will flatten some corrugations to avoid the use of a plate but it is far easier to fill them. Non flanged enable easier access for servicing removal.
that's great. Appreciate you taking the time to explain this. I have got the flat plate that came with the kit. I was a bit worried about cutting such a large hole in the van floor, so if I can do it your way, I will be a lot happier.
You need the hole for the exhaust to be a little larger than the air inlet to keep the surrounding underseal/sealant clear of the heat. It is obvious how to do it once you make a start, it is plucking up the courage to make holes in your new van that is difficult.
Thanks for that tip re the exhaust hole and the sealant. Yes... a bit apprehensive about drilling the holes. I saw this guy doing it on youtube>> Drilling holes for flat plate T5 . I will just need to take the plunge and do it. Thanks again
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Diesel air heater located under VWT6 driver's seat.
Ok, drilled and fitted plate and sat heater in place for first fix. Can you recommend the correct heat sealant compound that I should use?
Should I open up the exhaust hole for more clearance?
Images
1. View of heater first fit from under floor
2. Heater first fit
Ok, drilled and fitted plate and sat heater in place for first fix. Can you recommend the correct heat sealant compound that I should use?
Should I open up the exhaust hole for more clearance?
Images
1. View of heater first fit from under floor
2. Heater first fit
I would open up the exhaust hole a little more. You shouldn't need any sealant - hopefully you have a silicone rubber base seal that takes care of sealing. Just make sure that the cut edges are well protected with paint - I use engine enamel spray cans as they have a higher heat tolerance, my main worry is underbody waxes that could drip on an exhaust if heated up - you don't need to worry about that by the look of it.
Yes I was thinking I would need to open that exhaust hole a bit . Great tip re enamel spray can. Thanks for all your help. Much appreciated!
Putting it bluntly - you can put it anywhere you want provided that you can ensure that the exhaust etc is safe in a clear space underneath. There is no right or wrong place you just have to check your underside where you are envisaging mounting it.
yes i know, fitted one to my t4, everyone seems to fit them under drivers floor on t6, i had to replace rubber fuel pipe connecters a few times on my t4 due to the conditions(perished rubbers) in scotland, bit worried about sticking an £800 heater underside.
This is the thread you want @Doulsy
www.t6forum.com
Night Heater location - internal or external??
Hi all, after spending a couple of chilly nights off grid in the Van. I have decided that I will be fitting the above. The question is about whether it's best to fit underneath or under the drivers seat! Will there be much of a difference noise wise? I am leaning towards fitting it under the...
im not keen on putting it outside, bought it with outside kit but that is only a base, still not sure, any pictures of fuel line from pick up? where your pump is ect?
I mounted mine underneath but your fuel pump and pick up will still be under the van even if you fit heater inside. I mounted fuel pump near the tank on a bracket beneath passenger side. I put the fuel stand pipe in the fuel sender as per usual. It was a bit nerve wracking drilling sender after dropping tank but did it carefully. Here is a few pics. 
