Sorry I'm late to the party on this post but we pick up our T6 campervan on Saturday and keen to get some form of security fitted asap. I rang tye UK supplier of bear lock. A polish guy in London, said he'd fit for £300 and takes 3-4 hours to do. I may ask him to do it at the garage I'm collecting from at the weekend.
Hi thinking of getting one of these locks fitted to my new T6 camper when it arrives. Did you get one fitted? How was it and are you happy with it
 
Hi thinking of getting one of these locks fitted to my new T6 camper when it arrives. Did you get one fitted? How was it and are you happy with it
Hi no I couldnt make the fitting work with van collection so didnt get it in the end.
 
Hi Simon, I am thinking of getting a Bearlock fitted to my new T6 when it arrives. Did you get yours done, how was it
Hi Robert,

it seems to work fine, it's a bit of a faff to find the keyhole in the dark...but it's all self contained behind the dash panels so doesn't need room like a disklock or pedal lock...but I guess it's not as much as a visual deterrent. the stickers are on the doors so hopefully that'll be enough to send any thieves to easier prey.
Bearlock fitment (or similar) was mandatory for my insurance here in NL

cheers
Simon
 
I fit the autowatch ghost and i must say it is the best immobiliser on the market, on the t6 it is undetectable due to a really nice location to fit it. I obviously have one myself (be rude not to as an installer lol) you also need deadlocks on the rear load doors if you want to be extra secure i can recommend tvl in horndon essex for these and on the sliding doors you want hook deadlocks! The theiving scum have no chance at all then! Trackers are useless as it is so easy to get blockers for them.
 
Two nights ago I had my T6 broken in to on my drive. I say broken in to, they gained access but did no damage, I am guessing they used some type of key transponder.

Pretty scared they will try and steel it next, so bought a wheel lock and going to beef up security at my house.

Anyone got any tips on how to prevent this next time? I bought a RFID wallet.

Can they store my key code for next time, should I get my keys scrubbed and reset?

Cheers, Andy
 
I have a little experience of rolling code software (keyloq) and I think you can prevent a Samyk stolen code by forcing the van to resync, by pressing the remote at least 16 times whilst out of range, so the van doesnt hear these presses. Then do just one 'in range' press to resync. The van will ignore this first command but will resync ready for the next press (which you dont do). I'm not 100% sure but I believe this should prevent a stolen code from working as it contains the old sync count.
 
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Putting the key in a sheilded bag won’t help as we don’t have keyless entry.
Other methods of immobilisation will be needed; Physical like you have done plus a Ghost to prevent starting. You can also pull a fuse to prevent it from being started.
An ODB lock that prevents access to the CANbus may also help. CCTV on the house so you can see if there are suspect messing with it overnight.

As to how they got in is worth thinking about. Don’t count out the simple options.
  • You forgot to lock it
  • Locked it with a door ajar
  • You didn’t deadlock it
  • You don’t own all the keys
  • Key added to car at last service
  • Key rolling code sniffed whilst you last locked it.
  • New unreported method of simulation of key codes to unlock it.
It’s unlikely they had a cloned key otherwise it would have been taken unless it was blocked in.
 
Some good advice there thank you. Some I hadn't thought about. I will get Ghost fitted asap, get my F type done at the same time.

The doors were closed and it was locked. Deadlocked, maybe not, how do you do that? The van is new, so Im learning its little features, Oli at Bognor showed me yesterday how to flip the mirrors up!

How do I edit my title, realised there are a few spelling mistakes? Im new on here too.
 
With a single press of the key it deadlocks (if fitted) and you hear a clunk,clunk. If you have a habit of double pressing to ensure it’s locked, you are inadvertently un-deadlocking it as you walk away.
Also double pressing the key is also bad practice as it will give a thief with a sniffer 2 of the rolling codes combinations and aid in the deciphering of the codes.
 
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Being in the Caravan and Motorhome industry where it's more common for units being stolen, I've seen my share of security ideas and devices, but the best deterrent we know of is proper security posts that are fixed into the ground. Yes, a thief can still get through them, but as a visual deterrent, nothing seems to be better. (unless you have 2 posts)

I cannot imagine how unnerving it must be, knowing your pride and joy has been tampered with, and could be a potential target to be taken. We rarely see any vehicle crime in my area, but I know i'd be on edge if I heard it was going on near me, so I feel for you.
 
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As we keep saying, layers..

It has been a few years since the paper was released by the Guys from birmingham Uni and this article back in 2016 A New Wireless Hack Can Unlock 100 Million Volkswagens that sums it up quite well.
So it is quite conceivable that there is kit in the wild now that can unlock a vehicle, but starting and driving away is a secondary challenge.
Fortunately we don't have kessy (Keyless entry and start), so we are not vulnerable to the Relay attack that is being used on a lot of cars at the moment where they boost the kessy key allowing both opening and starting.

So to mitigate a possible opening issue, we shouldn't leave anything of value in the vehicle and also block access to the ODB port so a new key can't be added to the immobiliser. They will still need to be able to unlock the steering. so the effort required gets more, and is therefore less likely to succeed.

The thieves could just turn up with with a clamper's lift truck and take it away, so if you dont own a garage to put it away in, you might just end up chaining your Van to a large tree. (something I used to de with my powerboat trailer...)
 
I’m no expert.
But for the extra couple of seconds it takes would locking up with the key in the door stop these people getting the codes??
Just a thought.
 
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I’m no expert.
But for the extra couple of seconds it takes would locking up with the key in the door stop these people getting the codes??
Just a thought.
Yes if they are sat nearby sniffing. But we don't yet know if the whole cryptography has been compromised.
Also lets not jump to the conclusion that in this case there is not a simpler explanation.
 
With a single press of the key it deadlocks (if fitted) and you hear a clunk,clunk. If you have a habit of double pressing to ensure it’s locked, you are inadvertently un-deadlocking it as you walk away.
Also double pressing the key is also bad practice as it will give a thief with a sniffer 2 of the rolling codes combinations and aid in the deciphering of the codes.

You literally do learn something new every day on this forum - by habit I always press the key twice - I think it stems from other vehicles where you had to press twice to deadlock.

I've just done a search on the forum but it's currently returning an error - I thought deadlocking was standard - it is trim specific (I have a Highline)?

Literally just pressed the key once and I get a clunk, clunk (so assuming/hoping I do have deadlocking). Pressed twice and get a third clunk which I assume un-deadlocks - seems odd it does it that way but now need to learn just one click.

Thanks.
 
Literally just pressed the key once and I get a clunk, clunk (so assuming/hoping I do have deadlocking). Pressed twice and get a third clunk which I assume un-deadlocks - seems odd it does it that way but now need to learn just one click.
yes you have deadlocking with that description.
 
I’ve had 2 of our work vans broken into with keys readily available on Amazon, under £30.
Fair enough they are Fords, but to lose thousands of pounds worth of kit that easily leaves a bitter taste.

I hope it was nothing more sinister than leaving it unlocked, but you are right to be asking the questions.
 
If you want to read the paper from the Birmingham Uni guys, it is attached here.


Thats deep. love it.

just shows you that a "secondary" non OEM, non CAN bus, bog standard old school analog secondary alarm (in addition to the factory unit) is not such a daft idea.
 
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