Fogstar Lithium batteries?

Have a look at the lithium section over here .....





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You can charge lithium up to a maximum rate of “C”. Where C=the battery capacity. For maximum battery life the recommended rate is C/3. Which in your case would be 105/3= 35A. In extreme circumstances you can charge at C=105A. This is why Lithium needs good management, they aren’t self regulating like lead acid batteries.

Fwiw.

I run the Roamer sb230 battery which has a 100A max charge.

Charged with a Renogy 50A dc-dc charger.

But I set the current limit in the dc-dc settings to 30A.

I also drop the charge voltage down to 14.2v

That's a sweet spot for me, it keeps all the temps low and doesn't stain the cable install.

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In a pinch when camping and need a fast top-up charge I adjust the settings and set the DC-DC charger to 50A with a 14.6v voltage.
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Then change back after to the chill out settings.



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Charging at 50A and above on a 12v system is serious, and needs a beefcake cable install and fuse blocks.. . . Stuff starts to got hot very quick at those rates.

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Fwiw.

I run the Roamer sb230 battery which has a 100A max charge.

Charged with a Renogy 50A dc-dc charger.

But I set the current limit in the dc-dc settings to 30A.

I also drop the charge voltage down to 14.2v

That's a sweet spot for me, it keeps all the temps low and doesn't stain the cable install.

.

In a pinch when camping and need a fast top-up charge I adjust the settings and set the DC-DC charger to 50A with a 14.6v voltage.
.


Then change back after to the chill out settings.



..


Charging at 50A and above on a 12v system is serious, and needs a beefcake cable install and fuse blocks.. . . Stuff starts to got hot very quick at those rates.

..
Yup, similar here. I charge the SuperB at 30A with the good old Victron Orion. The Mains charger is 15A and the solar is whatever mood the sun’s in. The only time things get warm is if the battery is low & we start driving & the Orion kicks in at full chat. But that doesn’t last long, and a thick piece of aluminium durbar plate as a heat sink helps mitigate that.
 
People who expected them end of December got them start of Feb on the other forum I think, so looks like there is different batches coming through. Dunno. They were quite happy to refund me they said if I couldn't wait.

Just got email from them (after I chased) saying its now expected end of April, i'm not in a massive rush and it seems a good deal so will likely wait. If you're thinking of ordering I'd maybe wait till they have stuff in stock :confused:
 
Just got email from them (after I chased) saying its now expected end of April, i'm not in a massive rush and it seems a good deal so will likely wait. If you're thinking of ordering I'd maybe wait till they have stuff in stock :confused:
I keep watching. My LB is pretty goosed so fingers crossed there are some spare at the end of April.
 
I'm thinking of upgrading to lithium battery, but how do I tell if my vsr is up to Charging it?

Vsr says 12v 140amp. Cut in is at 13.3v, but I don't know how to work out what the output voltage is?
 
I'm thinking of upgrading to lithium battery, but how do I tell if my vsr is up to Charging it?

Vsr says 12v 140amp. Cut in is at 13.3v, but I don't know how to work out what the output voltage is?
A VSR is not capable of charging a lithium battery period. You need a DC-DC charger with a lithium profile
 
A VSR is not capable of charging a lithium battery period. You need a DC-DC charger with a lithium profile
Thanks deaky. You mean like the victron chargers that you use when connected to the mains to charge it?

How do you charge it while driving?
 
Thanks deaky. You mean like the victron chargers that you use when connected to the mains to charge it?

How do you charge it while driving?
No, not a mains charger. A DC-DC charger is a battery to battery charger. Look at Victron Orion or CTEK
 
Also important is the lowest current that the BMS can detect.... Ie led lights and USB chargers, dash cams etc..... I'd it's not low enough you will get a lot of BMS drift.
Can you expand on this?

My AGM has finally let me down, so the Fogstar 105 is my front runner at the moment.

I have Renogy DCC50S. I do need sometimes to pull fractions of an amp for a LED nightlight. Is this a problem?
 
Can you expand on this?

My AGM has finally let me down, so the Fogstar 105 is my front runner at the moment.

I have Renogy DCC50S. I do need sometimes to pull fractions of an amp for a LED nightlight. Is this a problem?
no, no problem.

to reset the BMS just fully charge the battery,

some BMS will shut down the battery into SLEEP mode if the dont detect and draw or charge . . . normally over a 24hr period. ( Poweroad)

the Renogy battery holds power at the terminals 24/7.

I've not tested a Fogstar yet. - ill look into that.


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more info here:

 
Fogstar tell me that the battery will go into sleep mode if it has no charge/discharge/bluetooth activity. And to wake it, just apply a load they say.

I'm not sure how this can work, if the battery output is turned off, how will it know a load is present?

Anyhow, I leave my fridge on most of the year, so that'll keep the BMS occupied, so I've ordered one.
 
Fogstar tell me that the battery will go into sleep mode if it has no charge/discharge/bluetooth activity. And to wake it, just apply a load they say.

I'm not sure how this can work, if the battery output is turned off, how will it know a load is present?

Anyhow, I leave my fridge on most of the year, so that'll keep the BMS occupied, so I've ordered one.
The BMS will have a small amount of power at the terminals. (Possibly 5v) that is used to detect a load.

Incoming charge will wake it.

Standard stuff on lifepo4 batteries that have a sleep mode.

Renogy and Roamer for example don't sleep.

But poweroand and fogstar seem to have it.
 
The BMS will have a small amount of power at the terminals. (Possibly 5v) that is used to detect a load.

Incoming charge will wake it.
Interesting, when the battery arrives, I'll get my fluke out and check this.

Next job for me is to suss out the BLE data if I can, so that I can get battery info up on my OLED display without using the app.
 
Interesting, when the battery arrives, I'll get my fluke out and check this.

Next job for me is to suss out the BLE data if I can, so that I can get battery info up on my OLED display without using the app.
Keep me posted - am interested. Sorry to have missed your post on Monday asking for a review. Replied on that thread. But all good - though anything has to be an improvement on what I was limping along with previously!
 
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