Deaky’s Kombi to Camper journey

Hi @Deaky I have just bought a T6 Kombi. It has had a comfort dash fitted. When I removed glove box and panel the footwell light and glove box wires are just tied up. No plugs or connectors. Any advice on where to connect. The footwell light should come on with the interior not sure when the glove box light should come on.
Hi @Dazwoods. The footwell lights and the glovebox light both connect to the courtesy light circuit. Look at the connector blocks pictured below

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in one of the blocks, I think it’s the beige coloured one you can see, look for 3 wires, red/black (timed +ve), brown/red (switched -ve) and brown (permanent -ve). There are the courtesy light circuit

Connect the footwell light to red/black and brown/red they’ll come on when you open the door

connect the glovebox light to red/black and brown. There should be a switch on the side of the glovebox that turns the light on when you open it.
 
Hi @Dazwoods. The footwell lights and the glovebox light both connect to the courtesy light circuit. Look at the connector blocks pictured below

View attachment 94833

in one of the blocks, I think it’s the beige coloured one you can see, look for 3 wires, red/black (timed +ve), brown/red (switched -ve) and brown (permanent -ve). There are the courtesy light circuit

Connect the footwell light to red/black and brown/red they’ll come on when you open the door

connect the glovebox light to red/black and brown. There should be a switch on the side of the glovebox that turns the light on when you open it.
@Deaky Fantastic thanks,
 
Another big up to @Robert and sharing the knowledge :D
Automatic PDC activation when pulling into a parking space. I'm not going the whole hog and installing the rear traffic alert. More than happy with this mod. Saves pressing the button.

I´m pretty sure its just me.... But haven´t been able to locate the actual directions for doing the mod.
Any help to find it?
TIA
 
Under seat install is now finished and connected up to the switch panel. I’ve moved the oem fuseholder H into the new fuse box with the rest of the leisure electrics. The switches in the overhead panel operate the relays in the box next to the fuses, this saves running all the circuits up to the switches. There is just one single multi core cable up to the panel.

View attachment 42450

I’ve done some soul searching about fitting lithium. It would mean replacing the redarc and buying a battery. I decided against it in the end. I’ve fitted a 110a AGM which should be more than enough for my electrical needs and has cost me less than a tenth of the cost of going lithium.

View attachment 42449
Hi buddy that is an excellent install, looks right. As if that was the way it was meant to be that way.
I have installed the eBay battery tray at the front end of the seat, as quite a bit of original electrics I didn’t want to disturb on the rear of the seat box. I have a space between the battery tray and floor so the original looms so they are not crushed. I can fit a 175mm high sealed battery either 85 or 75 ah. I intend to hook up and use my Ctek msx5 most of the time. In the winter if we ever sleep out in it will need to power a D2 parking heater ( have installed the factory b post vent kit) heater to be fitted after I finish the battery, we have a Dometic 18L fridge with their insulated bag fitted for the summer. So possibly two low level consumers averaged over an 8 hour sleep. I don’t think I need to spend the money to install a dc to dc battery charger for our intended use and can always be added later. Our van is a Caravelle so beautiful daily driver, however, camping side requires more improvisation. IYO how much difference do you think a 85 to 75 ah battery makes, straight % it is 13% more but in useable resource not sure if that holds true?
Finally, in danger of sounds like a numpty can I attach a 12v regulator (10 ah) to my leisure battery and with a cut off switch set at 12.8v plug it into my power outlet on the c pillar when driving to top up the battery? The cars alternator would just work as though I had the heated screen, heated Ed seats on etc? I think
Anyhow nice to see a very tidy battery and electrical install which you have done.
 
Hi buddy that is an excellent install, looks right. As if that was the way it was meant to be that way.
I have installed the eBay battery tray at the front end of the seat, as quite a bit of original electrics I didn’t want to disturb on the rear of the seat box. I have a space between the battery tray and floor so the original looms so they are not crushed. I can fit a 175mm high sealed battery either 85 or 75 ah. I intend to hook up and use my Ctek msx5 most of the time. In the winter if we ever sleep out in it will need to power a D2 parking heater ( have installed the factory b post vent kit) heater to be fitted after I finish the battery, we have a Dometic 18L fridge with their insulated bag fitted for the summer. So possibly two low level consumers averaged over an 8 hour sleep. I don’t think I need to spend the money to install a dc to dc battery charger for our intended use and can always be added later. Our van is a Caravelle so beautiful daily driver, however, camping side requires more improvisation. IYO how much difference do you think a 85 to 75 ah battery makes, straight % it is 13% more but in useable resource not sure if that holds true?
Finally, in danger of sounds like a numpty can I attach a 12v regulator (10 ah) to my leisure battery and with a cut off switch set at 12.8v plug it into my power outlet on the c pillar when driving to top up the battery? The cars alternator would just work as though I had the heated screen, heated Ed seats on etc? I think
Anyhow nice to see a very tidy battery and electrical install which you have done.
Battery tray b post trim( cut out the holes for trim vents saves £......
Cheers

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Hi buddy that is an excellent install, looks right. As if that was the way it was meant to be that way.
I have installed the eBay battery tray at the front end of the seat, as quite a bit of original electrics I didn’t want to disturb on the rear of the seat box. I have a space between the battery tray and floor so the original looms so they are not crushed. I can fit a 175mm high sealed battery either 85 or 75 ah. I intend to hook up and use my Ctek msx5 most of the time. In the winter if we ever sleep out in it will need to power a D2 parking heater ( have installed the factory b post vent kit) heater to be fitted after I finish the battery, we have a Dometic 18L fridge with their insulated bag fitted for the summer. So possibly two low level consumers averaged over an 8 hour sleep. I don’t think I need to spend the money to install a dc to dc battery charger for our intended use and can always be added later. Our van is a Caravelle so beautiful daily driver, however, camping side requires more improvisation. IYO how much difference do you think a 85 to 75 ah battery makes, straight % it is 13% more but in useable resource not sure if that holds true?
Finally, in danger of sounds like a numpty can I attach a 12v regulator (10 ah) to my leisure battery and with a cut off switch set at 12.8v plug it into my power outlet on the c pillar when driving to top up the battery? The cars alternator would just work as though I had the heated screen, heated Ed seats on etc? I think
Anyhow nice to see a very tidy battery and electrical install which you have done.
IMO the difference between a 75ah and 85ah battery is negligible. You can only use half that before damaging the battery so really your talking 37.5 or 42.5 useable ah.

Your battery will probably be an AGM battery. 13.8v is not enough to charge. If you're going to do it, do it properly and fit a DC-DC charger that will supply the correct voltages to charge your battery, same as your Ctek charger will.
 
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Under seat install is now finished and connected up to the switch panel. I’ve moved the oem fuseholder H into the new fuse box with the rest of the leisure electrics. The switches in the overhead panel operate the relays in the box next to the fuses, this saves running all the circuits up to the switches. There is just one single multi core cable up to the panel.

View attachment 42450

I’ve done some soul searching about fitting lithium. It would mean replacing the redarc and buying a battery. I decided against it in the end. I’ve fitted a 110a AGM which should be more than enough for my electrical needs and has cost me less than a tenth of the cost of going lithium.

View attachment 42449
Very neat, I've purchased the same battery, did you install a tray to secure the battery, also what are the relays for? Thanks
 
Very neat, I've purchased the same battery, did you install a tray to secure the battery, also what are the relays for? Thanks
Hi Mike. I already had a battery tray in the seat base as I originally had a factory fitted aux battery. The relays switch my leisure circuits operated from buttons in the overhead cubby hole.
 
I fitted a leisure battery under the driver seat, put in a CTEK 250 underneath the passenger seat, a lot of factory wires in both locations!

The battery is 175mm in height and sits just above the factory looms. Because it’s at the front I could put in power points behind it and leave factory connections in situ.
 

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Apologies if this has already been covered, but does your set up keep the van charging monitor happy, what with it linking straight to the battery + terminal?
The monitoring shunt is on the -ve terminal of the battery the charger ground is connected to the chassis so the van is aware of any charge going into the starter battery.
 
I’m back after a few days away visiting Oli at @BognorMotors

After a few advisories on my MOT I decided it was time to give a little TLC to the old gel :cry:

so after a few conversations and guidance from Oli it was off to Bognor Regis staying a couple of nights in Chichester while @BognorMotors worked their magic.

The van went in for

Revo Stage 1 remap
TVS gearbox software update
Revo callipers and disks on the front
New front rear suspension bushes
Painted callipers and drilled disks on the rear
New wheels and tyres all round
Hunter alignment

Due to the turbo on my van making a few weird noises with the stage 1 map on, Oli advised that I shouldn’t proceed with the map and monitor the turbo. Great advice, I’m sure plenty of other places would have whacked it on and taken my money. Everything else went as sweet as a nut, a few WhatsApp photos of the height with adjustments until I was happy and the job was done. I’m over the moon with it, I’ll be back to Bognor soon to get the turbo sorted and the remap done. It will also give me chance to try out a local Thai that Oli recommend. I even found a bar selling Orval and Rodenbach Belgian beer :inlove:

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