110Ah
Seat Base Electric + EHU + Solar Install + Charger + DC-DC -- How We Done it --
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
There is a good chance that just fitting a 100ah lithium would give you more than you need. It's effectively doubling your capacity.
Fair enough if you just want to go as big as possible, but you might find you never use it.
Yeah i know going 100/105Ah Lithium will pretty much double my capacity and the seat base batteries are fairly pricey. Would the Roamer 144 (or 160S4) be the largest 'normal' battery that would fit?
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Pass... but at that price I'd be looking at 2 x Renogy Core Mini 100ah instead.
Problem then comes back to size, I can't imagine 2 would fit. Though great price
I couldn't explain how I've shoehorned all this under the driver's seat, just made it up as I went along, but I've got:
Roamer Seatbase230 LiFePo4 (JUST fits in that orientation)
Victron Orion Smart DC-DC 12-12-30
Victron SmartShunt
+I've and -I've busbars
feed out to the Renogy 2kW inverter using 2x 170A cables (max is 250A from the lithium, so playing it safe here with 340 combined but also has a 250A megafuse)
Everything is wrapped in leccy tape to within an inch of its life, and used nylon tape stuff so help avoid any chafing. then duct taped so it can't move
The DC-DC is mounted on a Macgyvered piece of plywood so the fins stick through to the front of the seat area for better ventilation
60A fuse on the output to the main 12v breaker box in the back for lights etc.
There's a main breaker switch so I can disconnect both the main van battery from the DC-DC input, and I can also disconnect the main 60A 12v out. Also have the connector for the Victron mains charger accessible under there so if I'm on EHU I can charge just the van battery by having the DC-DC isolator off, or if I turn it on, it triggers the DC-DC to also trickle into the lithium too.
EHU under bonnet with mini consumer unit.
Consumer unit feeds that silver socket there just behind the drivers seat. The plug that's in view above currently connected to the inverter is just an extension to the main 240v socket in the cubby hole. It lets me easily switch that rear socket so be either EHU or inverter, with no potential earthing issues
And with all that I can boil a kettle to make a brew, anywhere
...oh I forgot this
Roamer Seatbase230 LiFePo4 (JUST fits in that orientation)
Victron Orion Smart DC-DC 12-12-30
Victron SmartShunt
+I've and -I've busbars
feed out to the Renogy 2kW inverter using 2x 170A cables (max is 250A from the lithium, so playing it safe here with 340 combined but also has a 250A megafuse)
Everything is wrapped in leccy tape to within an inch of its life, and used nylon tape stuff so help avoid any chafing. then duct taped so it can't move
The DC-DC is mounted on a Macgyvered piece of plywood so the fins stick through to the front of the seat area for better ventilation
60A fuse on the output to the main 12v breaker box in the back for lights etc.
There's a main breaker switch so I can disconnect both the main van battery from the DC-DC input, and I can also disconnect the main 60A 12v out. Also have the connector for the Victron mains charger accessible under there so if I'm on EHU I can charge just the van battery by having the DC-DC isolator off, or if I turn it on, it triggers the DC-DC to also trickle into the lithium too.
EHU under bonnet with mini consumer unit.
Consumer unit feeds that silver socket there just behind the drivers seat. The plug that's in view above currently connected to the inverter is just an extension to the main 240v socket in the cubby hole. It lets me easily switch that rear socket so be either EHU or inverter, with no potential earthing issues
And with all that I can boil a kettle to make a brew, anywhere
...oh I forgot this
Brother from another mother...
That 1,000 is now a 2,000W inverter and recessed 20mm into the fridge housing as it's a bit tight behind the seat, the Victron is a 30A charger fed from the EHU consumer unit, kitchen looks pretty swish.
That 1,000 is now a 2,000W inverter and recessed 20mm into the fridge housing as it's a bit tight behind the seat, the Victron is a 30A charger fed from the EHU consumer unit, kitchen looks pretty swish.
great minds ;-)Brother from another mother...
View attachment 316231
That 1,000 is now a 2,000W inverter and recessed 20mm into the fridge housing as it's a bit tight behind the seat, the Victron is a 30A charger fed from the EHU consumer unit, kitchen looks pretty swish.
I’ve not used one of these maxi/midi blocks before, but I connect the cable running from my battery positive to the top left post (red circle), so the current passes through the maxi fuse, right?
Then chargers and loads on the 4 slots at the bottom? I’ve got MPPT, DC-DC and a blade firebox connection to add leaving me a spare for future expansion…
Thanks for your help,
Sam
Then chargers and loads on the 4 slots at the bottom? I’ve got MPPT, DC-DC and a blade firebox connection to add leaving me a spare for future expansion…
Thanks for your help,
Sam
jgm0
Member
Yes exactly mate! I did my MPPT off the top right because its a higher rated cable. I also put a switch between battery and maxi/midi block
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Yes
Strangely I just bought a similar one of these. But the busbar plate is I 2 pieces.
Also I believe the fuses need to go below the busbar to keep them level and stop them being deformed.
@Skyliner33 On your version yes or put a washer or two over the stud under the other end of the Maxi fuse to make up the thickness of the added busbar.
I've got the two-piece version as well.
I s
Doubles up the main bar for some extra beef.
I s
Doubles up the main bar for some extra beef.
To be honest, Im not happy with the construction of mine. Although its the one 12Vplanet, splitcharge, and simplysplitcharge sell. (In fact although its the identical part from the 1st 2 retailers) from the third they dont put up the part number but do show a photo its an ENG branded same as the first 2.
12V planet - rating of 180A
split charge - not details
simply split charge - rating of 300A
So 2 places selling the exact same part number totally different current ratings. Doesn't fill me with confidence, as I want to use a 250A fuse. to power an inverter.
Edit @Dellmassive do you mean the bit from the Mega fuse or the bit with 4 bolts in?
Can you remember where you got yours from and the current rating for it?
Mega & Midi Fuse Power Distribution Box
Compact power distribution & fuse box that distributes power theough a single mega link fuse into 4 midi or strip link fuses.
www.12voltplanet.co.uk
Five Way Power Distribution Fuse Box For Mega & Midi Fuses 12v & 24v
Heavy Duty Power Distribution Fuse Box for MEGA and MIDI Fuses 12V & 24V - Five Way Suitable for use in automotive, leisure and marine applications Fuses are not included. Heavy duty high current fuse box with incorporated cover, this fuse box can feed four circuits via a Midi fuse and one...
www.splitcharge.co.uk
MEGA - MIDI fuse distribution box
MEGA MIDI fuse distribution box for 1 x mega 4 x midi fuses Fittings are 2 x M8 studs + 4 x M5 studs with attached nuts.
www.simplysplitcharge.co.uk
Vastly different prices as well.
Plit charge also sell a cheaper one:
Five Way Power Distribution Fuse Box For Mega & Midi Fuses 12/24V
Heavy Duty Power Distribution Fuse Box for MEGA and MIDI Fuses 12V & 24V – Five Way Suitable for use in automotive, leisure and marine applications Fuses are not included. Heavy duty high current fuse box with incorporated cover, this fuse box Can feed four circuits via a Midi fuse and one...
www.splitcharge.co.uk
From memory I've got my 2kw Renogy inverter running straight from the battery isolator doubled up on the output stud via an inline acrylic holder and 250A mega fuse.
Its a 2kW Renogy inverter I got. I have a Blue Sea MRBF on the battery post. I was going to run a single 75mm cable to the distribution block then to the inverter via the 250A fuse. Then use 3 of the midi outputs.
However thinking about it now, I might run 2 cables from the MRBF, one direct to inverter, and the other to this distribution block.
Does depends what capacity your Blue Sea fuse is, whether direct or via the mega/maxi fuse board as either way there's a chance you're going to be pulling 200A through the Blue Sea fuse for the inverter with any other 12V loads running from the remaining 50A capacity so it would be possible to blow the two big fuses in cascade.
In the real world I've never blown anything larger than 80A fuses but they were the glass tube type, ok for car audio back in the day but not modern manly loads!
In the real world I've never blown anything larger than 80A fuses but they were the glass tube type, ok for car audio back in the day but not modern manly loads!
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