Scotchlok Or Posi Taps Supplier?....
- Thread starter SAF1981
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My recommendation would be to leave well alone, I have seen many issues caused by these including burnt wiring and even burnt vehicles - do the job properly or don’t do it at all, if you have to join in the loom then bare the wire and solder, if you can get to a plug then pin out and connect there..
I would agree on the scotchloks, not a fan of them but positaps are ok if fitted properly
I think its important to understand what/where/why you are using them and appropriate levels of current going through them is ok
VAG approved methods do not allow soldering of cables but always recommend crimp type connectors, again personally i dont have an issue soldering cables as long as you have good access to make a good joint and the termination is not put under excess stress or vibration afterwards
I think its important to understand what/where/why you are using them and appropriate levels of current going through them is ok
VAG approved methods do not allow soldering of cables but always recommend crimp type connectors, again personally i dont have an issue soldering cables as long as you have good access to make a good joint and the termination is not put under excess stress or vibration afterwards
OK that does sound a bit concerning. Do you have a link on how I would bare the wires to a plug? Can the wires from the led bumper lights be connected straight in to the pins that the tail lights use?
Certainly not!
Scotchlocks are terrible things. For those that don't want to solder (there are many reasons) Part 17 of the electrical regs (not automotive) recognise mechanical connections (crimps) as being of equal status to soldering. Buy the proper crimper (not the £3 cheapies) and a decent wire stripper (automatic or otherwise) and joins are done much more quickly than soldering.
I don't have a link but I basically mean pull the pin out of the plug to the rear light and either solder the new wire to the pin or better still use a new pin with both the original OEM wire and new wire crimped into it. You will need a pin out tool to remove the pin from the plug though - like this For VW Pin Removal Tool Keys X3 Great Design & Quality Brand New | eBay
Cutting and crimping is also ok if done properly, but do use the proper tool and heat shrink type crimp connectors to keep the water out. Personally I don't like cut wires in a loom as it is a weak point but if done properly shouldn't give a problem, I can't tell you how many hours I have wasted chasing a fault to find someone has 'modified' a circuit. Obviously its a different scenario if you did the modification as its the first place you look.
I wouldn't use posi-taps either, as per scotch-locs, anything that breaks the insulation and makes a good connection by a clamp or pressure on the cable has too much potential for damage especially in a vehicle application.
I’m interested to learn more about crimping... have you got a link to any recommended tools and any guides on how to use them?
Many thanks!
Kevin
Use something like this that makes a proper crimp (mine is a ratchet type that cannot be released until it has reached the correct position)
RS PRO Crimping Tool | RS Components
Use these type of crimps for inside work where moisture isn’t an issue (the plastic insulated ones)
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/crimps/cat830488
Use these where moisture might be an issue or hidden in a loom where you cant see them so aren’t easy to visualise if you have a problem.
Heat Shrink Crimp Butt Connector (Red, Blue, Yellow)
Finally if you can tidy them up with some loom tape so it doesn’t look like a dogs dinner, dont use pvc insulating tape if you want a professional look, it’ll just end up a sticky mess
Fabric Looming Tape
I’m not recommending any of the suppliers above and most can be had much cheaper from the likes of eBay or amazon.
RS PRO Crimping Tool | RS Components
Use these type of crimps for inside work where moisture isn’t an issue (the plastic insulated ones)
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/crimps/cat830488
Use these where moisture might be an issue or hidden in a loom where you cant see them so aren’t easy to visualise if you have a problem.
Heat Shrink Crimp Butt Connector (Red, Blue, Yellow)
Finally if you can tidy them up with some loom tape so it doesn’t look like a dogs dinner, dont use pvc insulating tape if you want a professional look, it’ll just end up a sticky mess
Fabric Looming Tape
I’m not recommending any of the suppliers above and most can be had much cheaper from the likes of eBay or amazon.
FWIW 99.9% of aircraft looms are crimped. Soldered joints are rarely used as the risk of dry joints and vibration related breakages are too high.
The aircraft I work on currently have one system that has soldered joints, a live battery fed light system for checking gearbox sight glasses....the wires are always breaking off.
The aircraft I work on currently have one system that has soldered joints, a live battery fed light system for checking gearbox sight glasses....the wires are always breaking off.
This has got to be the best way to go but do you know where to get replacement pins? Also are they all the same?
Thanks for the comprehensive advice. I'll have a rethink on my intended method and check you tube for your method
An interesting insight thanks, I’ve never had cause to get involved with aircraft electrical system failures as that is a completely different skill set, perhaps vibration is a bigger issue here?
Has anyone used Wago connectors in the automotive world?
I have always used either crimped, automotive multi-pin connector pairs (plug & socket), flat 'Lucar' type or soldered & heat shrunk connections depending on the location and type of connection required. Having seen and used Wago connectors in the domestic wiring environment I have wondered how they stand up to use in a vehicle, I know that they are OK for both stranded and solid connectors.
I have always used either crimped, automotive multi-pin connector pairs (plug & socket), flat 'Lucar' type or soldered & heat shrunk connections depending on the location and type of connection required. Having seen and used Wago connectors in the domestic wiring environment I have wondered how they stand up to use in a vehicle, I know that they are OK for both stranded and solid connectors.
Vibration isn't such an issue for fixed wing aircraft but for rotary wing (helicopters) it is THE issue!
I'm a fan of these types of crimps. Ideal for connecting wires with heat shrink over the top.
US $1.22 20% OFF|100pcs 453 U shaped tab cold inserts Docking connector line pressing button quick connect terminal wiring 0.5 to1.5 square mm2|Terminals| | - AliExpress
US $1.22 20% OFF|100pcs 453 U shaped tab cold inserts Docking connector line pressing button quick connect terminal wiring 0.5 to1.5 square mm2|Terminals| | - AliExpress
I only seen these just recently. What’s the correct way to crimp them? Just fold the tabs in one by one?
@cgtmiles they have 2 tabs either side the 1st to crimp the outer insulation and the 2nd to crimp the inner core, they do a special crimping tool for this type that rolls the tab over for a neat tight connection with no sharp edges. the tool is not expensive and available from most of the automotive component suppliers. I've used "Vehicle wiring products" before and they seem OK.
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