Get yourself a step drill bit which is likely to be easier to open up a hole.
Roof Rail Leak Free Fixing.
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Just my input FWIW. As an Engineer who’s worked on ‘liquid/air systems’ in my career from Low Pressure domestic water and gas, to fully automated High Pressure hydraulic system circa 3200 psi, when I fitted my ARB Baserack I massively over thought the ‘will it leak’ paranoia.
Then in a moment of clarity I just said ‘used the tried and tested principles you used in the above systems to great effect and keep it simple!!’
For roof rail, roof rack etc fitting that bolts into the existing roof mount threads I would simply use a good quality rubber spacer, or flat seal to suit your application and use some good quality liquid PTFE.
I rate this stuff. I use it on LP water and in a few minutes it forms a W/T seal. I used this on my roof rack bolts along with supplied ‘rubber pad’ from ARB and no issue. Also used it on other friends VW roof blank bolts as a precaution and 18 months later they too say previously leaking bolts now cured.
We are all guilty of overthinking it sometimes ( jeeeeeez. I’m the worst
) but often a simple proprietary solution with less points of failure is best.
just my ‘go to’. HTH
Then in a moment of clarity I just said ‘used the tried and tested principles you used in the above systems to great effect and keep it simple!!’
For roof rail, roof rack etc fitting that bolts into the existing roof mount threads I would simply use a good quality rubber spacer, or flat seal to suit your application and use some good quality liquid PTFE.
I rate this stuff. I use it on LP water and in a few minutes it forms a W/T seal. I used this on my roof rack bolts along with supplied ‘rubber pad’ from ARB and no issue. Also used it on other friends VW roof blank bolts as a precaution and 18 months later they too say previously leaking bolts now cured.
We are all guilty of overthinking it sometimes ( jeeeeeez. I’m the worst
) but often a simple proprietary solution with less points of failure is best.just my ‘go to’. HTH
This has been my defacto solution in the past Pardon our interruption... but same principle. 4 months on and some recent rain how has this solution been holding up?Just my input FWIW. As an Engineer who’s worked on ‘liquid/air systems’ in my career from Low Pressure domestic water and gas, to fully automated High Pressure hydraulic system circa 3200 psi, when I fitted my ARB Baserack I massively over thought the ‘will it leak’ paranoia.
Then in a moment of clarity I just said ‘used the tried and tested principles you used in the above systems to great effect and keep it simple!!’
For roof rail, roof rack etc fitting that bolts into the existing roof mount threads I would simply use a good quality rubber spacer, or flat seal to suit your application and use some good quality liquid PTFE.
I rate this stuff. I use it on LP water and in a few minutes it forms a W/T seal. I used this on my roof rack bolts along with supplied ‘rubber pad’ from ARB and no issue. Also used it on other friends VW roof blank bolts as a precaution and 18 months later they too say previously leaking bolts now cured.
We are all guilty of overthinking it sometimes ( jeeeeeez. I’m the worst
just my ‘go to’. HTH
View attachment 289361
New member here ... first post. I'm looking to do this fix on my leaking roof bars but just one query. The OEM roof blanking bolt use a course 1.5mm thread pitch as far as I can tell, but most threaded bars and nuts I can find use a standard 1.0 mm thread pitch. Are peeps using standard 1.0 mm thread pitch bar and nuts ? Is there anything I should even be worrying about. Cheers
If I were simply sealing the original bolts I’d upgrade with these.
stitchesandsteel.com
HTH
Blanking Bolt Upgrade
Volkswagen supplied as standard, a now notoriously liable-to-failure bolt on the roof of the Transporter T5, T6 and T6.1 platform. The Aluminium 'blanking bolts' supplied from new in all vehicles have an issue where they fuse with the thread in the roof. The eventual extraction without...
stitchesandsteel.com
HTH
M6 x 1.0
Standard metric thread.
About to fit some OEM type bars from van style. Have to say I’m so glad I found this thread - the foam washer supplied with the fittings looks appalling and absolutely invites disaster.
And so I’m getting myself into a slight state of paralysis by analysis thinking this over. The instructions on this thread are pretty clear and I have the requisite parts on order, but I’m going belts and braces on this as I don’t want to regret fitting the bars.
A question for the forum sages…..
The op suggested he didn’t want to use silicon up the roof holes, but surely a small amount prior to the M6 bolt going in can only help create an absolute water tight seal, no? Also, a thin bead underneath the epdm washer and around the hole in the washer prior to the nylock nut tightening down? Any reason not to do either of the above that I’m not realising?
Thoughts?
And so I’m getting myself into a slight state of paralysis by analysis thinking this over. The instructions on this thread are pretty clear and I have the requisite parts on order, but I’m going belts and braces on this as I don’t want to regret fitting the bars.
A question for the forum sages…..
The op suggested he didn’t want to use silicon up the roof holes, but surely a small amount prior to the M6 bolt going in can only help create an absolute water tight seal, no? Also, a thin bead underneath the epdm washer and around the hole in the washer prior to the nylock nut tightening down? Any reason not to do either of the above that I’m not realising?
Thoughts?
Paulh87
Member
I was thinking about this the other day I wish I used silicone on mine just for good measure. Water gets in every tiny gap conceivable.
I put silicone on mine 6 years ago and it’s still fine . After all, the windows are glued in so a little silicone won’t hurt
As per my previous, a few post up, and I’ll say it again, (no offence intended I promise 
) but use liquid PTFE on the thread. It is a proprietary product for sealing THREADS. Silicone is NOT. By all means (if you feel the urge) you can back it up with Silicone on the mating surfaces (ie roof to bracket, I didn’t bother) but the silicone will not flow into the lands on the threads. This stuff seals LP water and I’ve used it in anger on many pressurised water systems.
) but use liquid PTFE on the thread. It is a proprietary product for sealing THREADS. Silicone is NOT. By all means (if you feel the urge) you can back it up with Silicone on the mating surfaces (ie roof to bracket, I didn’t bother) but the silicone will not flow into the lands on the threads. This stuff seals LP water and I’ve used it in anger on many pressurised water systems.I use that stuff at work . My only grip is that it can set hard on some makes so can be tougher to remove. But that’s what it is for and will still work. Main thing is you put something on to stop it leaking . Wish I could slap it on the kombi windows to stop them leaking!
Paulh87
Member
Have done with them and replace them with fixed windows. One of the best mods I've done to my van! However the list of mods is utterly endless but enjoyable
I've just used this method to fit aftermarket rails to my Buzz - the only problem I had was tightening my nylock securing nuts - the opening in the rail wasn't wide enough for a standard socket - I had to spend half an hour with a 1/4" drive socket on a bench grinder until it would fit through!
I used the method in this thread without silicone and they have been there 4 years leak free.
I personally wouldn't use silicone as it will make a mess and may be slightly uneven making the rubber washer not sit tight against the chassis.
I personally wouldn't use silicone as it will make a mess and may be slightly uneven making the rubber washer not sit tight against the chassis.
I’m just following this now. Did anyone use the OMTEC bars which come in two halves? It appears there are no feet under the centre hits, which feels odd as it means plastic straight on the roof with small pressure points. It also feels really flimsy, although it says 75kg. Can someone assure me it’s all fine before I spend hours putting it together 
