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Got some ebay roof rails and did not want to gorm silicone into and around the fixing holes.

Instead I got some M6 threaded bar cut a little longer than the bolts supplied with the rails. I then used the rubber washers that came off the blanking bolts together with a washer and M6 nyloc nut.
This then fixes into the holes on the roof and seals it the same as the original blanking bolt.
I then simply used a washer and nyloc nut to fix the roof rails to the threaded studs.
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Got some ebay roof rails and did not want to gorm silicone into and around the fixing holes.

Instead I got some M6 threaded bar cut a little longer than the bolts supplied with the rails. I then used the rubber washers that came off the blanking bolts together with a washer and M6 nyloc nut.
This then fixes into the holes on the roof and seals it the same as the original blanking bolt.
I then simply used a washer and nyloc nut to fix the roof rails to the threaded studs.
View attachment 18747 View attachment 18746 View attachment 18745 View attachment 18744 View attachment 18743
Im pulling mine off next weekend and doing this
Thanks
 
Got some ebay roof rails and did not want to gorm silicone into and around the fixing holes.

Instead I got some M6 threaded bar cut a little longer than the bolts supplied with the rails. I then used the rubber washers that came off the blanking bolts together with a washer and M6 nyloc nut.
This then fixes into the holes on the roof and seals it the same as the original blanking bolt.
I then simply used a washer and nyloc nut to fix the roof rails to the threaded studs.

Anyone have any updates on this method of installation for the roof bars?
Looking into doing this for mine and was seeing if it was successful
 
Anyone have any updates on this method of installation for the roof bars?
Looking into doing this for mine and was seeing if it was successful


Well I havn't had any problems since I did mine.

Its dry as a nunns chuff in my ceiling space.
 
Have just done this method after ordering some after market roof rails. Brilliant idea and a lot easier to do on your own !!
I used sealant and the rubber washer that comes off the blanking bolts along with a washer and nyloc nut. Should be totally water tight.
£1.57 for the threaded bar 50p for washers and a couple of quid for a packet of nyloc nuts.
 
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Just came across this thread and it looks like a great solution. Can anyone who has done it comment on how easy it is to get the nyloc nuts onto the threads through the hole in the roof bars i.e. the second nut rather than the one sealing the hole. Magnetic socket or anything special needed?
 
I did this last summer and found it quite straightforward. Once you have the threaded bar in place in all three holes the rails just drop on. I put a bit of silicone in the socket to hold the nyloc nut, then lightly tightened each one down allowing me to move the plastic spacer feet they sit on, once I was happy everything was set I just tightened them all up. They have been on a year so far and no leaks. I did find the threaded bar needs to be cut a lot longer as when you put the spacers and rails on there is not a lot of threaded bar sticking through for the nyloc nut to go on. And its a pain moving step ladders up and down the van, if you have two sets of step ladders the better. The key is working out how much threaded bar is needed too little and there is not enough sticking through to get the nut. Definitely works ...
 
I did this last summer and found it quite straightforward. Once you have the threaded bar in place in all three holes the rails just drop on. I put a bit of silicone in the socket to hold the nyloc nut, then lightly tightened each one down allowing me to move the plastic spacer feet they sit on, once I was happy everything was set I just tightened them all up. They have been on a year so far and no leaks. I did find the threaded bar needs to be cut a lot longer as when you put the spacers and rails on there is not a lot of threaded bar sticking through for the nyloc nut to go on. And its a pain moving step ladders up and down the van, if you have two sets of step ladders the better. The key is working out how much threaded bar is needed too little and there is not enough sticking through to get the nut. Definitely works ...
Thanks for the response. Good tip on the length o the bar. I think I’ll do a dummy run with a full length of bar first so I can see it in situ before i cut it down.
 
Finally found the time to get the roof bars fitted. Used this technique which both seals the holes in the roof very well and makes it a whole lot easier to fit the rails. I used flange nuts rather than nut and washer thinking it will give a better seal as water can’t get between nut and washer.

It rained in the middle of me doing it, you can see in the pictures how the water pools round the bolt, with nothing to seal the hole this would cause a whole lot of mess....crap design from VW. Great solution from the forum :thumbsup:
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I fitted my roof rails like this with the nut and washer but that looks even better @Big.mac . I found it a bit of an arse getting the other nuts on to tighten the rails down as theyre in a hole but got there in the end,i liked this idea better than loads of sealer all over the place
 
I fitted my roof rails like this with the nut and washer but that looks even better @Big.mac . I found it a bit of an arse getting the other nuts on to tighten the rails down as theyre in a hole but got there in the end,i liked this idea better than loads of sealer all over the place
I put a dab of grease on the upper nuts and popped them into a long socket. With the nut held in the socket it was a doddle. I was overthinking it for ages and looking for a magnet to attach to the socket but then the obvious occurred to me.,
 
Yes that overthinker with the magnetic socket holder was me also until i also realised i needed a longer socket!
 
So, if fitting an awning rail under the roof bar would you fit rubber/foam washer under the awning rail onto the roof, or on top of the awning rail but under the roof rail bars? Or washers/sealant on both sides?
 
I put the original rubber washer under the awning rail,not the spongey things that came with the roof rails,the ones already fitted to the van
 
So, if fitting an awning rail under the roof bar would you fit rubber/foam washer under the awning rail onto the roof, or on top of the awning rail but under the roof rail bars? Or washers/sealant on both sides?
The best solution would be to use the technique shown in this thread and then put the bracket for the awning rail on top of the nut on the threaded bar, that way the roof is sealed by the threaded bar/rubber washer/nut combo and it’s doesn’t matter what goes on above it.
 
The best solution would be to use the technique shown in this thread and then put the bracket for the awning rail on top of the nut on the threaded bar, that way the roof is sealed by the threaded bar/rubber washer/nut combo and it’s doesn’t matter what goes on above it.

It's a gutter awning rail as per Lightning Leisure
 
If it's this one
VW T5 / T6 Awning Rail SWB for Roof Bars
or attaches in the same way, I would use the threaded bar approach, put the original rubber washer below it, another rubber washer on top of it, then a nyloc nut. That will put the awning rail in place and seal the roof. The rails can then be mounted on top.
 
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