Help! Lots of faults after going over a bump

Mrtints

VCDS User | Camper Conversions
VIP Member
T6 Pro
So, other day I went over a bump in the road. Then lots off issues came on the dash
Abs fault
ECS fault
Parking aid fault
Headlight range control fault
Cruise control fault
reverse camera don’t work

Looked on vcds and communication errors
Looked on OBD11 says there’s various errors
Fault codes U112300 and U112400 keep coming up across all modules

See images

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Did you accidentally post your private details?
 
There are people here who know way more than me, but some of those systems are familiar to me because they pass through the connector block under the passenger seat. Have you got a twin passenger seat? Could something you’re storing under there have dislodged a connector?
 
There are people here who know way more than me, but some of those systems are familiar to me because they pass through the connector block under the passenger seat. Have you got a twin passenger seat? Could something you’re storing under there have dislodged a connector?
Interesting as there’s a wire under the seat that comes through the floor which looks like it’s connected to nox sensor, and other stuff under there steering rack and something else, coincidentally I ripped off the ad blue cover in some floods the other day and then these wires and plugs were exposed but it makes sense that one of them wires got pulled .

I can’t find out what the plugs and connectors are under the twin seat.
All the fuses under the seat are fine but possibly when I’ve thrown something in it’s got caught.

All the errors would point towards the gateway electrics wouldn’t they?
 
coincidentally I ripped off the ad blue cover in some floods the other day and then these wires and plugs were exposed but it makes sense that one of them wires got pulled .
Might be worth expanding on this event a bit. Sounds like a possible culprit.
 
Might be worth expanding on this event a bit. Sounds like a possible culprit.
This happened before the event.

However I have noticed that the rear abs sensor wire sheathing has been squashed a bit and coincidentally vcds is showing a fault with the sensor.

Plus a lot of the other faults show ESP issues
 
I see. Have a look at @Dellmassive’s post here. Some way down the message is a list of connections under the passenger seat. See if it matches the errors you’re seeing.

Ignition Live Under Passenger Seat - How its done -

View attachment 39447

This question pops up fairly often so i thought i would look at it a bit closer. . . . .

If your van was factory fitted with the AUX battery under the seat, then your sorted. There is already a feed under there . . . . =]

BUT what if your van hasn't got the Factory option? . . . . Well there are two options for you.


Run (a new wire) the factory wire from the BCM under the dash/steering wheel

or

Run a (a new wire) from the ignition feed center-line of fuses in the under dash fuse panel.


************************************

lets look at the first option #1

The factory setup has a trigger wire that connects the BCM to a relay under the seat, which in tern connects the AUX battery to the front SA fusebox > VW T6 Fusebox - Fusebox/Fuse Chart SA - Primary Battery Fusebox
Now this feed is not an ignition feed as we traditionally know it, it used to be called "X-relief " as its only switched on when the BCM sees a RPM signal from The ECU. So it kicks in and out during start stop events.

this can be seen here:


1-jpg.27190


.

Lets look at the diagram:

View attachment 39446

download a copy credit: @Loz here> Second battery wiring diagram

You can see that the BCM(J519) has a wire pin in connector T73a /3

its a sw (black) 0.5mm wire core that runs from the BCM under the central cable tunel and up into the seatbase. This is the BCM switched +12v signal when ignition is on and rpm is detected.

This connects to the factory 12v relay (J7) at pin 3, the relay has a perm 0v ground via J7 pin4 (brown wire 1.5mm down to the earth point under the seat base)

If you just needed the ignition feed then thats it . . . . .But if you were fitting an aux battery/relay or DC-DC charger then you need to fit the heavy duty +12v feed cable also.

in the factory setup its a 10mm red cable fed from the SA Fusebox under the starter battery, fed via an 100A supply fuse SA2, REMEMBER you need to fuse BOTH ends of the cable !!! so VW have added a 80A fuse under the seat base to protect the cable from any issues heading back toi the engine bay.

another thing to not is the VW relay is 100A rated.

the factory setup can look like this:
a6504a76-cdf2-4a9c-961a-29c5f9c674b3-jpeg.27188


or this:

20180430_184818-jpg.21559


here is the Factory cable install for the 10mm feed cable . . . . . >
Tpi 2046279, T6 Repair Instructions For Voltage Supply Of 2nd Battery

here is a great guide from @travelvolts Electrics | Travelvolts > https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/d959f6_e84b43c19cce424e90952d456c91f103.pdf

and here > Installation Guide for Redarc DC-DC Charging Kit

more info over here > Stop/start...regen...smart Alternator... Dc-dc Charger For Leisure Battery Or Not?

******************************************************************************

So what about option #2 . . . . . well this will give you a more traditional "ignition feed" the BCM supplys the SC fuse box with a +12 supply when the ignition is switched on.

credits to @Loz for these:

here > VW T6 Fusebox - Fusebox/Fuse Chart SC - Lower Dash Fusebox Listings

here > VW T6 Fuse Boxes - Overview Of Fuse Holder Vehicle Locations

here > Fuse Card

you can add new fuse terminals into any blank center fuse holder to addin a new circuits, this is the preferred more professional way of doing it, but dont go crazy with the amps, i would limit the circuits to 5A or 10A (unknown/untested max additional circuit loading to center line SC fuse-box)

you can buy the crimpon fuse terminals from the shop > Four Genuine Volkswagen Crimp Connectors For Stereo Quadlock / Fusebox

or buy the VW repair wire which comes with a length of yellow wire attached so you can just clip in and join the wire.

like these . . . .

View attachment 39449


another popular method is the piggyback fuse adapter as seen here>


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So what about all those existing connectors under the seat . . . . . . one of those must be ignition fed?

NOPE !! see here > Ignition Live Under Passenger Seat

as @Deaky said early on there isnt!

all the mid loom connectors at the bottom, which will be the rear PDC loom, rear lights loom, rear doors loom, rear ABS and brake pad also passenger seat loom,

here:

32-jpg.39423

.

20190308_132526-jpg.39442


.

***********************************************************************
There is no "No Dedicated Switched Ignition Live Under The Seat" - You Need To Run A New Wire From fuse-box . . . (if you want a separate 12v live when the key is on the accessory position your need a new feed from the center line of the under dash center fuse box.....)
************************************************************************

FYI - (yellow colour plug)

(Green) wire is T17f /9 - G46 Rear left speed sensor (do not connect to this)
(black) wire is T17f /10 - G46 Rear left speed sensor (do not connect to this)
T17f /2 - ABS - (do not connect to this)
T17f /3 - ABS - (do not connect to this)

T17f /8 - F11 Rear right door contact switch - (do not connect to this)
T17f /4 - F10 Rear right door contact switch - (do not connect to this)

T17 /11 - (white) G34 Front left brake pad wear sender - (do not connect to this)

T17 /12 - MX4 Right tail light - (do not connect to this)




33-jpg.39443

.
34-jpg.39444


..


**************************************************************************
There is no "No Dedicated Switched Ignition Live Under The Seat" - You Need To Run A New Wire From fuse-box . . . (if you want a separate 12v live when the key is on the accessory position your need a new feed from the center line of the under dash center fuse box.....)
***************************************************************************
FYI - T17q (black colour plug)

T17q /1 - G203 Rear left parking aid sender (do not connect to this)
T17q /2 - G204 Rear centre left parking aid sender (do not connect to this)
t17q /3 - X68 Positive connection (parking aid), in rear bumper wiring harness (from J446 PDC) (do not connect to this)
t17q /4 - 352 Earth connection (parking aid), in rear bumper wiring harness (from J446 PDC) (do not connect to this)
t17q /5 - G205 Rear centre right parking aid sender (do not connect to this)
t17q /6 - G206 Rear right parking aid sender (do not connect to this)


35-jpg.39445


.






****************************************************************************
more info can be found here:

Installing 12v Socket /s - How Its Done -
.
12v Igntn Feed + 5xusb Charging From Ign Feed - Today's Install
.
12v Aux Feed + 5xusb Charging From Aux Battery - Today's Install
.
Led Rear Interior Lights - How I Done It.
,

Dellmassive`s -- "how I Done It" -- Thread


cant download the VIP docs....? come and jaoin T6F and become a VIP > VIP Membership | VW T6 Forum - The Dedicated VW Transporter T6 Forum


.

work in progress.

T17-P RED conector under seat:
T17p 17-pin connector, red, under seat on front left



1 - wht/grn
2 - or/brn
3 - or/grn
4 - vil
5 - grn
6 - blk/blu - res heat relay
7 - rd/blu -
8 - brn
9 - or/br can?
10 - or/blk can?
11
12 - br/vi - v386
13
14
15
16
17 - rd/yel SC46 - j364 aux heater unit











End.
 
This happened before the event.

However I have noticed that the rear abs sensor wire sheathing has been squashed a bit and coincidentally vcds is showing a fault with the sensor.

Plus a lot of the other faults show ESP issues
ABS sensors can throw all sorts of errors up, much like those that you are seeing. I would investigate that as priority number one.
 
I see. Have a look at @Dellmassive’s post here. Some way down the message is a list of connections under the passenger seat. See if it matches the errors you’re seeing.
Amazing thanks
 
UPDATE - she’s fixed.

I do have some errors still but weird ones like undefined control unit in gateway

Anyway, the fault was the rear ABS sensor wire must have got crushed between the control arm and the chassis. I could see damage to the conduit, but the rubber sheathing that houses the wires was completely intact. Anyway, managed to cut it back, solder a new bit of wire in and clear codes - interestingly enough, I had fitted a new abs sensor, cleared codes and came back straight away.
However after repair the new sensor had a fault saying incompatibile component. I wonder if the resistance in the wires caused that fault? Either way it’s fixed and thanks to everyone that had an input, the diagrams in the VIP section were super helpful. Deffo worth the subscription.
 
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