As far as I know the adjustable links are to get the alignment of the wheels back in tolerance as dropping a long way can throw them out of spec.
H&R Anti Holl Bars (ARB) Front + Rear
- Thread starter xswind
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- h&r arb jacking-up point
As far as I know the adjustable links are to get the alignment of the wheels back in tolerance as dropping a long way can throw them out of spec.
So they are not relevant to the ARB’s then; but actually to the B14’s?
So if I have had four wheel laser alignment since dropping, and everything adjusted to be correct, then new drop links not required??????
I believe that is correct.
I saw no point in beefing up the roll bar and reconnecting the flimsy drop links that are originally provided.
I jacked up in the centre of the engine cradle (it looks to be made of fairly thick material and doesn't appear to have suffered, used a block of cork on my jack pad to avoid marking it), then placed the axle stands at either side just to the front of the arms on the same cradle.
I jacked up in the centre of the engine cradle (it looks to be made of fairly thick material and doesn't appear to have suffered, used a block of cork on my jack pad to avoid marking it), then placed the axle stands at either side just to the front of the arms on the same cradle.
When you lower your ride height, the angle at which the drop link interacts with the anti roll bar lever arm changes. This in turn alters the effectiveness of the ARB. In the same way as changing which hole you fit the lower ball joint to. Having a shorter drop link compensates for the drop in ride height and will assist in reestablishing the original setting of the ARB.
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Well I’ve just ordered a suitable jack and axle stands, along with a second 21mm socket and replacement c spanners to replace the ones I appear to have lost. £100 all in, and currently looking through all the information I can find ready to have a go at lowering a bit more next week.
If you are changing the ARB's out for H&R one's, you'll need an M14 spline bit for the front and an M10 spline bit for the rear to get the original clamps off.
And don't forget, when you lower the spring heights, when you drop the van back down off the jack, it MAY crush the jack underneath the van! Be careful of your front splitters and low bumpers.
You might have to lower the van wheels onto some wood blocks as an interim measure to get the jack out from under the front of the van, then jack up again on the jacking point behind the wheel to remove the blocks . I had the front and rear bumpers off when I was doing my suspension mods but I found I had difficulty getting the jack under the van when the bumpers were back on.
And don't forget, when you lower the spring heights, when you drop the van back down off the jack, it MAY crush the jack underneath the van! Be careful of your front splitters and low bumpers.
You might have to lower the van wheels onto some wood blocks as an interim measure to get the jack out from under the front of the van, then jack up again on the jacking point behind the wheel to remove the blocks . I had the front and rear bumpers off when I was doing my suspension mods but I found I had difficulty getting the jack under the van when the bumpers were back on.
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No I’ve already got them, I’m just lowering the existing B14s
See my edit re lowering when spring heights are dropped, don't damage the van on the jack.
Good information, thanks. I’ll have to do one side at a time even at the front as I have a gravel drive so it’ll have to be done in the garage and have to turn the van around to get access to the other side. I’ll make sure I have some suitable blocks to lower the wheels onto before I start. It’ll be another week before I get to doing it so I’ll keep researching
Ahh, this is from another thread and could be a problem for me
Actually I suppose I could get both back sides in the air at the same time while in the garage if I can get to what I need from the back and not the sides
Actually I suppose I could get both back sides in the air at the same time while in the garage if I can get to what I need from the back and not the sides
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I adjusted the ride height then fitted the arb, first side easy enough but you need to jack the other end into position while you bolt the retaining clamp into place.
Can someone clarify for me, on this pic is it fixings into these holes that determine the stiffness setting? And which is the front or back? I want to check what setting mine are on when I jack the van up to adjust the B14s
Also, where would I use the axle stands when getting to the B14s? I assume I don't use them at all at the back as the arm needs to be free to drop down?
Also, where would I use the axle stands when getting to the B14s? I assume I don't use them at all at the back as the arm needs to be free to drop down?
The shorter the lever the stiffer the bar (ie it's harder to twist it if you don't have the leverage.)
A good explanation of what adjustments have what effect on handling is here..
Swaybar (anti-roll bar) setup guide for all vehicles
Unfortunately there aren't a lot of options for places to place a jack AND place an axle stand at the same time that doesn't interfere with the movement of the rear arms.
Get some chocks in front of the front tyres, put the van into gear, then you can (if you can get the jack underneath to reach it and still be able to operate the jack) jack up on the inner arm mount and put the axle stand where the van screw jack goes on the outer sill in front of the rear wheels.
I use either a cork jar stopper (about 6" diameter and an inch thick) or a rubber hockey puck depending on whether I'm jacking a flat surface or a sharp edge.
A good explanation of what adjustments have what effect on handling is here..
Swaybar (anti-roll bar) setup guide for all vehicles
Unfortunately there aren't a lot of options for places to place a jack AND place an axle stand at the same time that doesn't interfere with the movement of the rear arms.
Get some chocks in front of the front tyres, put the van into gear, then you can (if you can get the jack underneath to reach it and still be able to operate the jack) jack up on the inner arm mount and put the axle stand where the van screw jack goes on the outer sill in front of the rear wheels.
I use either a cork jar stopper (about 6" diameter and an inch thick) or a rubber hockey puck depending on whether I'm jacking a flat surface or a sharp edge.
While I was in the garage doing other stuff today, I stuck my hand and phone as far as I could get under the van to try and determine what setting my ARBs are on.
Disappointed to see the front ones are already on their stiffest setting. Can't see what the rears are set on, the picture above that I got from H&R's website shows 3 holes, but if there are 3 they're very close together and covered by the clamp. Unless anyone can tell from how much is sticking out?
Front
Rear
Disappointed to see the front ones are already on their stiffest setting. Can't see what the rears are set on, the picture above that I got from H&R's website shows 3 holes, but if there are 3 they're very close together and covered by the clamp. Unless anyone can tell from how much is sticking out?
Front
Rear
Great thanks, I wondered whether that might be the case. Shame, I was hoping they weren't set to max but at least I know now
Why are you looking to change the settings? What handling change are you looking for?
I've never felt any change in the handling after I had them fitted and always sort of hoped it was because they had been on a softer setting and that I could adjust that at the same time as I level the B14s.
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