H&R front anti roll bar install query

[Obee1toby]

Wonder if someone can help with this. I’ve got limited time this weekend to install the h@r front anti roll bar and I’m looking for any advice/tips to make it go smoothly. I’ve looked today while I did the rear which was a doddle but the front looks quite tight to get the roll bar out and the new one in, not sure if the drive shaft needs disconnecting or not (4 motion t6.1) or if anything else needs to be moved/removed to get it in.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[DXX]

Soak the ARB clamp bolts with penetrating oil a week in advance.

 

[CRS Performance]

Prop shaft has to come out. Quite a job. Depending on age of vehicle to pull the prop off is a mare

 

[n10n]

Prop shaft has to come out. Quite a job. Depending on age of vehicle to pull the prop off is a mare

I was able to fit H&R front arb to T6 4motion without touching prop shaft, not sure if T6.1 is different. I was doing full suspension at the same time so had wheels, shocks, hubs and support arms removed. Still very fiddly, but just doable.

This was 1.5 years ago so the details have escaped me a little bit but here’s couple of tips:

The ARB has to be fed in from left to right and rotated / twisted around a lot. Watch for scratching the left fender with ARB left end while focusing on what the right end does.

This plug has to be unplugged and it’s mounting plate released and moved to side to give little bit more room.

 

[Obee1toby]

Prop shaft has to come out. Quite a job. Depending on age of vehicle to pull the prop off is a mare

Cheers for the reply, does it have to fully come out? Was kind of hoping it may just be the front and lift it up?

I was able to fit H&R front arb to T6 4motion without taking prop shaft out, not sure if T6.1 is different. I was doing full suspension at the same time so had wheels, shocks, hubs and support arms removed. Still very fiddly, but just doable.

This was 1.5 years ago so the details have escaped me a little bit but here’s couple of tips:

The ARB has to fed in from left to right and rotated / twisted around a lot. Watch for scratching the left fender with ARB left end while focusing on what the right end does.

This plug has to be unplugged and it’s mounting plate released and moved to side to give little bit more room.

View attachment 218215

Cheers, kinda wished I’d installed these when I fitted the suspension, like you said there’s more room to play with.

 

[n10n]

Oh and one more tip: the ARB is asymmetric so make sure to pay attention on which end you should feed in first. Don’t ask how I know this

 

[Texxaco]

Soak the ARB clamp bolts with penetrating oil a week in advance.

2nd what @DXX says here, you don’t want to sheer an ARB bolt, soak them good and proper.

Coming from me who has sheered a ARB bolt when swapping out my rear air bags. Had to source a whole replacement trailing arm as I could not remove the sheered bolt.

 

[Ads_Essex]

2nd what @DXX says here, you don’t want to sheer an ARB bolt, soak them good and proper.

Coming from me who has sheered a ARB bolt when swapping out my rear air bags. Had to source a whole replacement trailing arm as I could not remove the sheered bolt.

I presume you’re replacing the bolts @Obee1toby

 

[Texxaco]

I presume you’re replacing the bolts @Obee1toby

View attachment 218265

That’s look familiar @Ads_Essex. I now have five spare bolts… just in case.

 

[CRS Performance]

Cheers for the reply, does it have to fully come out? Was kind of hoping it may just be the front and lift it up?


Cheers, kinda wished I’d installed these when I fitted the suspension, like you said there’s more room to play with.

Just the front section we remove . spray lots of easing oil on the transfer box bolts and the actual CV where it sits in the cup , that is the bitch to get out normally

 

[Obee1toby]

Just the front section we remove . spray lots of easing oil on the transfer box bolts and the actual CV where it sits in the cup , that is the bitch to get out normally

Thanks for the info, from what I’ve read you seem to be an expert on transporter set ups. So I never got the time to change the front anti roll bar over the weekend but did get the back done last week. Already I’ve noticed how better it is, question is how much difference will doing the front make as at the moment the van feels perfect.
Im not after a van that handles crap, crashes through bumps and flat through corners as my spec shows.
199 4 motion
Twin adjust project comforts lowered around 40/50mm
18’s

 

[CRS Performance]

Thanks for the info, from what I’ve read you seem to be an expert on transporter set ups. So I never got the time to change the front anti roll bar over the weekend but did get the back done last week. Already I’ve noticed how better it is, question is how much difference will doing the front make as at the moment the van feels perfect.
Im not after a van that handles crap, crashes through bumps and flat through corners as my spec shows.
199 4 motion
Twin adjust project comforts lowered around 40/50mm
18’s

OK , we are well known in the Transporter fraternity and sadly i am not a fan of the twin adjust kit you have for many reasons. One reason is that the AR B bracket for the drop link is not ideally situated , its in a standard position and not lower to suit kits that can be set 40 to 70 mm

This actually stops the roll bars working in the ideal position ( less effective )

There fore i would strongly recommend fitting the front bar if you can .

Picture shows our kit that we sell against the Twin project kit and you can see the difference clearly