[Guide] Clayton LPS II 2500 - 1kWh (leisure battery + Inverter) -- How I Done It --

[Dellmassive]

Hi @Dellmassive, great write up as usual and very useful.

Maybe I am being simple, but rather than the seatbase extender battery requiring a further connection to the vehicle alternator and connection into the Clayton's DC in, couldn't you use the seatbase as the 'main' battery, running your 12v kit off that, and have a simpler mains charger to the seatbase battery from the Clayton?

Granted, you'd limit the charge rate of the seatbase and would only want the Clayton-seatbase charger running when the Clayton is charging (from the vehicle running or EHU), but that would be a simpler extended power bank? I'm sure an ignition/EHU linked relay for switching a charger would be a piece of cake for you to mock up

well, . . . . .

my main usage is 240vac when camping . . . (from the LPS)

kettle,
coffee machine,
hair dryer,
twin fridges,
disco lights and fairy lights
twinkly lights

so the clayton will be running 240v mains, that will drain the internal battery fairly quickly. . . . so i need the extra seatbase battery for the extra 240v run time.

charging the clayton off grid and keeping it running is the main priority,

charging the seatbase buffer battery is a secondary concern.


+++++++++++

if all my main kit was 12v then i could connect a 240v charger to the LPS to charge the seat base battery, . . the LPS would still need a alternator / starter battery connection wired to the DC IN to charge it anyway.

but as you say that would save the cost of a separate DC-DC charger.

the problem with this setup is a short 240v run time.

+++++++++++



The LPS is designed to be installed as-is, . . . but my use-case will run it flat too quickly, so i need a buffer battery.


without stating the obvious - - - - "why not just add an inverter to the seatbase + dc-dc charger that im fitting" which is what i run in the Silver van. . . . well wheres the fun in that..LOL.


.

 

[roadtripper]

but it looks more like a generic cable set,

not sure id have 0.9m of cable before a fuse at the starter battery end.

In a T6/6.1 where you feed off the battery I'd agree with you, but in the generic case they may feed off a dedicated alternator. The later boats built by the boatyard that did our narrow boat switched to wholly independent electrics with a dedicated alternator for engine start and a second for house supply. Then the length is about right to get off the engine to a good position to mount a fuse.

 

[Dellmassive]

In a T6/6.1 where you feed off the battery I'd agree with you, but in the generic case they may feed off a dedicated alternator. The later boats built by the boatyard that did our narrow boat switched to wholly independent electrics with a dedicated alternator for engine start and a second for house supply. Then the length is about right to get off the engine to a good position to mount a fuse.

makes sense,

they mention sail boats and yachts, so i suppose one cable kit to kit all purposes. . .


i wonder if this is a peek at the additional storage battery they are bringing out?






....


hmmm . . .





....


hold on found them . . .


Coming (very) soon…

Our range of 12V batteries will run independently, or alongside your LPS extending your run times!!

Choose either 100ah or 280ah and take your adventures off grid!

 

[Dellmassive]

those batterys look very nice,

100ah & 280ah - very very nice.

i bet they cost a bit. . . .

what BMS?

BT & APP?

looks like they have the DATA port . . .

can be run with oe without a LPS. . . .

 

[roadtripper]

Interesting van they chose to have in their Facebook banner...

Batteries look interesting though I would expect them to be premium and I doubt the market for "battery only" is going to be big.

The thing that strikes me is that they seem the wrong way around. The power and data connectors on the LPS are on the back, but the battery seems to have data (and I assume power by the "handle") on the front?

Maybe there is a set either end?

Be interesting to see.

 

[denz1968]

@Dellmassive see photo attached of my temp setup.
This will be going in a cupboard over my driver side wheel arch.

So far been used to power 12v coloured lights on awning, 2 induction hobs, wifes hair dryer (necessity of course), various chargers for phones, iPad etc.
We also powered a relations van for 2 nights while away in the lake district

whilst converting the van I used it for my hot air gun to heat up the dodo mat that we applied.

 

[denz1968]

Should have said I have the 3000 version of the system. Be good to see the app released for use with this.
I also have EHU port and wiring fitted to this from under drivers side rear bumper using a marine type EHU connection

 

[Dellmassive]

Nice...

Yeh, I'm hoping that they release a new remote that has BT built in.... So that the rest of the LPS2 people can add the app features.

The LPS2 was only released in Q1 2023 so surely they can't do a revision bump already?

I was looking at getting the remote, but I'll wait for now.

I'm hoping that BT is not a main HardWare feature..... Ie a new LPS.

 

[denz1968]

Nice...

Yeh, I'm hoping that they release a new remote that has BT built in.... So that the rest of the LPS2 people can add the app features.

The LPS2 was only released in Q1 2023 so surely they can't do a revision bump already?

I was looking at getting the remote, but I'll wait for now.

I'm hoping that BT is not a main HardWare feature..... Ie a new LPS.

Will be nice if they do.
I will ask my convertors as they are working close with Clayton for VW transporters.

We did go for the remote to save having to grovel in a cupboard every time to turn it on/off etc.

The other feature that works well is jump start. I inadvertently ran my vehicle battery low to the point it wouldn't start. I used the feature on the Clayton and in less than 5 minutes we were started up and running. Sweet.

 

[T6 Syd]

well, . . . . .

my main usage is 240vac when camping . . . (from the LPS)

kettle,
coffee machine,
hair dryer,
twin fridges,
disco lights and fairy lights
twinkly lights

so the clayton will be running 240v mains, that will drain the internal battery fairly quickly. . . . so i need the extra seatbase battery for the extra 240v run time.

charging the clayton off grid and keeping it running is the main priority,

charging the seatbase buffer battery is a secondary concern.


+++++++++++

if all my main kit was 12v then i could connect a 240v charger to the LPS to charge the seat base battery, . . the LPS would still need a alternator / starter battery connection wired to the DC IN to charge it anyway.

but as you say that would save the cost of a separate DC-DC charger.

the problem with this setup is a short 240v run time.

+++++++++++



The LPS is designed to be installed as-is, . . . but my use-case will run it flat too quickly, so i need a buffer battery.


without stating the obvious - - - - "why not just add an inverter to the seatbase + dc-dc charger that im fitting" which is what i run in the Silver van. . . . well wheres the fun in that..LOL.


.

Yes, that makes sense then.

I get the appeal of the one box solution, even though you are adding to it to get the extra power bank. Still, in my setup I'd effectively lose a cupboard to fit the LPS in and as usual cupboard storage is at a premium. The separate components route is more flexible to fit around the useable space in front of the wheel arch. Mind you, having just had my LA leisure battery die and having to remove and refit all the peripherals to get it out and the replacement in I'd have given a lot for the one box slot in setup! Then again, the LiFePO4 batteries should have a 10 year or so life so swapping out failed ones shouldn't be that much of an issue.

Enjoy playing, I mean testing

 

[T6ChrisO]

Apologies if I've missed this whilst reading through Leee but how would you go about wiring lights and fridge into one of these units? How could one of these become the main and only power source should you wish?

 

[roadtripper]

Apologies if I've missed this whilst reading through Leee but how would you go about wiring lights and fridge into one of these units? How could one of these become the main and only power source should you wish?

You'd still wire a bus bar/control panel/sub fuse box as normal downstream of the main 12v out terminals.

And yes some converters are using them as the whole core of leisure electrics, they seem quite a popular choice amongst those experimenting with converting things like the Buzz as a one box independent power supply.

 

[T6ChrisO]

You'd still wire a bus bar/control panel/sub fuse box as normal downstream of the main 12v out terminals.

And yes some converters are using them as the whole core of leisure electrics, they seem quite a popular choice amongst those experimenting with converting things like the Buzz as a one box independent power supply.

Ahh thank you for clearing that up pal

 

[P20]

We have the older original version. It works well and powers the induction hob without issue. The remote works well. The only issue with ours, is turning The ignition off switches the 12v off And you have to turn it back on. Seems like it’s not been wired in properly….. still haven’t investigated this properly

 

[Dellmassive]

You'd still wire a bus bar/control panel/sub fuse box as normal downstream of the main 12v out terminals.

And yes some converters are using them as the whole core of leisure electrics, they seem quite a popular choice amongst those experimenting with converting things like the Buzz as a one box independent power supply.

Yep as he said...

The unit has 12v DC out. That's switchable.

Up to 180A worth!!!!

So way more power available than a 10A output from a EF delta or the like.

You can run a ton of stuff from it......

Just add your own fuse block etc just like normal.

 

[Bundy88]

We have the older original version. It works well and powers the induction hob without issue. The remote works well. The only issue with ours, is turning The ignition off switches the 12v off And you have to turn it back on. Seems like it’s not been wired in properly….. still haven’t investigated this properly

Mine was wired up so that all the 240v and 12v cut off when the ignition came on. Something to do with all the electrical items not being officially tested to use when driving or something like that. I got it changed by the converter so it all stays on whether ignition on or not....means you can charge your laptop when traveling! It was only a case of removing an inline piggy backed fuse in the fuse box

 

[P20]

@Bundy88
The 240v stays on. Both work whilst the ignition is on. The 12v dies when your switch the ignition off. So if the 12v is on and you need to close the windows and put the ignition to first position, ie not started it, it dies when the key is turned off.
Will have to get it looked at

 

[Bundy88]

@Bundy88
The 240v stays on. Both work whilst the ignition is on. The 12v dies when your switch the ignition off. So if the 12v is on and you need to close the windows and put the ignition to first position, ie not started it, it dies when the key is turned off.
Will have to get it looked at

Almost sounds like the 12v is using the van battery and not wired to the Clayton?! Deffo get that looked at.

 

[denz1968]

Mine was wired up so that all the 240v and 12v cut off when the ignition came on. Something to do with all the electrical items not being officially tested to use when driving or something like that. I got it changed by the converter so it all stays on whether ignition on or not....means you can charge your laptop when traveling! It was only a case of removing an inline piggy backed fuse in the fuse box

My converter has told me it is to do with regs, for when they get the vehicle signed off.
So it will be interesting to know what fuse they removed. I haven't seen one on my system. I assumed it was a setting on the clayton.

@Dellmassive can you shed any light on this in any way?

 

[Bundy88]

My converter has told me it is to do with regs, for when they get the vehicle signed off.
So it will be interesting to know what fuse they removed. I haven't seen one on my system. I assumed it was a setting on the clayton.

@Dellmassive can you shed any light on this in any way?

On mine it just looked like a wire from the Clayton with a piggy back fuse in the fuse box for an ignition feed. Took the fuse out and it stops the ignition feed to the Clayton allowing it to operate freely. I can just put the fuse back in if I want the ignition cutting it off again.