Front doors sound deadening
- Thread starter Littleblackflash
- Start date
I did this a couple of weeks ago and access is an issue.
You can open the inner door skin up but only just enough to slide an arm in unless you are prepared to disassemble the window mechanism. I got 4 1/2 sheets of Silent Coat in each door on the outer skin. Basically 2 above and 2 below the side impact bar/reinforcement plus an extra half sheet above the curve of the wheel arch.
I then put one sheet on the inner skin plus a few offcuts dotted around the remaining metalwork.
The inner skin was then topped off with 12mm Dodo mat plus 6mm on the door card.
Nice and quiet now.
You can open the inner door skin up but only just enough to slide an arm in unless you are prepared to disassemble the window mechanism. I got 4 1/2 sheets of Silent Coat in each door on the outer skin. Basically 2 above and 2 below the side impact bar/reinforcement plus an extra half sheet above the curve of the wheel arch.
I then put one sheet on the inner skin plus a few offcuts dotted around the remaining metalwork.
The inner skin was then topped off with 12mm Dodo mat plus 6mm on the door card.
Nice and quiet now.
I went all in. About 4 full sheets of Dynamat. I just drilled out the pop rivets to the door plastic door bracket, and left it in place, then removed the middle panel. Replaced the pop rivets with some M6 bolts fed in through the rear window drop glass attachment bar.
Nice. I wasn't prepared to disassemble that far but I can see it makes for a much better result.
I think one of the worries with doing this is that you need to de-grease the door skin which removes the randomly (in my case) applied corrosion protection. I left the bottom 1/2 inch clear and re-protected as required.
I would be surprised if the sound deadening fell off if applied to a clean surface.
I would be surprised if the sound deadening fell off if applied to a clean surface.
I was advised that Dynomat has better adhesion than Silentcoat. Having used Dynomat I can’t imagine it falling off, recommended.
I fitted door seals and the doors sounded better when closing. The drivers’ door needed a slam, mind.
I’ve since sound-deadened both the outer skin and the inner skin. They sound much better and no longer need a slam.
I fitted the extra door seals last year - the most cost effective improvement I’ve done so far - why don’t VW fit them, and more sound proofing?
I'm a big fan of Dynamat and similar, it makes a very noticeable and worthwhile difference on the outside of doorskins, especially on vans and the like that don't have much deadening in the first place. Did the same to my Vivaro a few years ago;
I also had a big improvement on my Cayenne with dynamat, big slab sided doors and thin metal. I use this to get distortion out of the audio by dampening the panels. The sound insulation qualities are impressive too.
It's certainly worth taking the centre frame out of the T6 door and doing the inside of the door skin, it takes an additional 1.5-2 hours whilst the thing is in bits anyway.
As another poster said, it's very sticky, I can't see it coming off and fouling any window mechanism, it's never happened with the half dozen or so cars I've done.
Dynmat is thicker than Silent Coat, I've used both, but prefer the bigger sheets of Dynamat.
I also had a big improvement on my Cayenne with dynamat, big slab sided doors and thin metal. I use this to get distortion out of the audio by dampening the panels. The sound insulation qualities are impressive too.
It's certainly worth taking the centre frame out of the T6 door and doing the inside of the door skin, it takes an additional 1.5-2 hours whilst the thing is in bits anyway.
As another poster said, it's very sticky, I can't see it coming off and fouling any window mechanism, it's never happened with the half dozen or so cars I've done.
Dynmat is thicker than Silent Coat, I've used both, but prefer the bigger sheets of Dynamat.
off topic
More pictures of the lambo needed.
More pictures of the lambo needed.
Sorry, we are drifting off topic, OP asked about doors, we end up on rear arches.
As I have piles of Dynamat, and time on my hands at the moment, I've done the rear arches from underneath, similar to the way that Bognor & Absolut seem to go about the rear. Spare car in the background as requested by @Littleblackflash
Edited to add that I've now looked again at @BognorMotors Grey 6.1. They do the arch deadening a bit neater than I have managed. It looks like they cut petal shapes to go around the tub, then a rectangular piece across the back vertical side.
2 minute jab max. 4 torx screws, two into the back bumper, two upper in the lining, an 8mm self tapper into the bottom of the sill, and one of the wide push on tin washer nut trim fixers. All very obvious. Once they are removed, the lining drops down a couple of inches, then can simply be lifted out.
Hi, Do you put the Dynamat on the top side of the arches as well (on the inside of the vehicle I mean) or just underneath on the outside? Basically is one layer enough? Thank youSorry, we are drifting off topic, OP asked about doors, we end up on rear arches.
View attachment 66790
As I have piles of Dynamat, and time on my hands at the moment, I've done the rear arches from underneath, similar to the way that Bognor & Absolut seem to go about the rear. Spare car in the background as requested by @Littleblackflash
View attachment 66791
View attachment 66791
Edited to add that I've now looked again at @BognorMotors Grey 6.1. They do the arch deadening a bit neater than I have managed. It looks like they cut petal shapes to go around the tub, then a rectangular piece across the back vertical side.
