Front doors sound deadening

[Littleblackflash]

I’ve dynomatted my van and now I’m adding a dodo acoustic thermal liner.

Where’s best to add it to the door and tailgate? I’ve dynomatted both the inner and outer skins. Do you add the thermal liner under the door trim or direct to the door outer skin!

 

[Littleblackflash]

anyone?

 

[Ann3x]

I did mine over the sound deadening on the outer skin for the tailgate, doors I just did what I couild reach as I didnt want to remove the door skin.

Afaik silver reflective material like dodomat themo should be facing silver side inwards and exposed to an air gap ideally (afaik). In reality, not sure itd make a huge difference.

 

[Littleblackflash]

Thanks

Did it make much difference to the sound?

 

[andys]

There was a study not long ago that showed that a reflective side to insulation made absolutely no difference whatsoever to heat insulation unless it was actually open to sunlight. For extra sound deadening I put closed cell foam behind the door card, but you can't go too thick or it won't go back on easily. Be careful with extra layers on the outer skin too, it doesn't take much to get in the way of the window mechanism.

 

[Dieseldonkey]

Maybe have a look at this thread @Littleblackflash . Good write up and pictures from @Dellmassive on how he sound deadened the doors...

Audio Upgrade Stage-1 . . . . Blam Relax 200rs Speakers From Skipton.

 

[Shaun Witts]

I am about to install new door speakers (from Skipton Car Radio) and was planning on lining the inside of the door skin as well as the metal carrier assembly. I was thinking that it should be fairly easy to remove the carrier assembly to gain good access to the door skin, but reading the manual, it seems that you have to unclamp the window from the regulator.

So my question is: Is it worth the effort to remove the door carrier assembly (the metal cover behind the trim) in order to line the inside of the door skin, or is it good enough just to line as much as possible with the carrier assembly in place?

Thanks.

 

[andys]

On my T5 I just stuck what I could through the speaker hole, on my T6 I removed the window carrier and covered the door skins - it was no different. You run into the law of diminishing returns with sound deadening like Silentcoat etc after a while. It only needs enough mass adding to stop the panel resonating, after that you’re just adding needless weight. What is of more benefit is then adding a layer of closed cell foam to the front of the inner window carrier panel or back of door panel, as well as the sound deadening. Also ensuring the speakers are sealed in at the back.

 

[$immo]

I am about to install new door speakers (from Skipton Car Radio) and was planning on lining the inside of the door skin as well as the metal carrier assembly. I was thinking that it should be fairly easy to remove the carrier assembly to gain good access to the door skin, but reading the manual, it seems that you have to unclamp the window from the regulator.

So my question is: Is it worth the effort to remove the door carrier assembly (the metal cover behind the trim) in order to line the inside of the door skin, or is it good enough just to line as much as possible with the carrier assembly in place?

Thanks.

As @andys said, if your taking out the speaker, put your hand through and place on what you can reach. Saves you taking off the inner skin etc.

 

[Base1388]

I am about to install new door speakers (from Skipton Car Radio) and was planning on lining the inside of the door skin as well as the metal carrier assembly. I was thinking that it should be fairly easy to remove the carrier assembly to gain good access to the door skin, but reading the manual, it seems that you have to unclamp the window from the regulator.

So my question is: Is it worth the effort to remove the door carrier assembly (the metal cover behind the trim) in order to line the inside of the door skin, or is it good enough just to line as much as possible with the carrier assembly in place?

Thanks.

I did prop the bottom of the carrier assembly out and dynamatted the whole door skin
Then the carrier assembly panel and inside door card

IMO Massive difference

 

[Base1388]

 

[Base1388]

 

[Base1388]

They say and I agree the extra door seals make the door shut so much more solid
Sure it does

Bot after this lot WOW sounds like its being shut like a sledge hammer ! solid !

 

[Ads_Essex]

..Also ensuring the speakers are sealed in at the back.

What do you mean, Andy - sealed from rainwater ingress?

 

[Shaun Witts]

I did prop the bottom of the carrier assembly out and dynamatted the whole door skin

Where you able to do this without unbolting the window clamps from the regulator?

 

[andys]

What do you mean, Andy - sealed from rainwater ingress?

No, silicone gasket between speaker and spacer and a collar behind. I didn't take any photos I'm afraid but I got the idea from a thread on this forum a couple of years ago. The only thing that vibrates now in my doors is the glass!

 

[andys]

Where you able to do this without unbolting the window clamps from the regulator?

It's possible, but undoing the window clamps isn't a big deal, just tape the windows securely to the door top first. Really isn't necessary though, you'll get enough through the speaker hole to damp the resonance as much as covering the skin.

 

[Base1388]

Where you able to do this without unbolting the window clamps from the regulator?

yes

 

[Nick Reed]

Hi all,
I am just about to finish my sound deadening project with only the front doors to go on the T6.
I don’t want to over buy silent coat. Anyone done this recently? If so how many sheets did you use?
Many thanks
Nick

 

[Minimucks]

Hi all,
I am just about to finish my sound deadening project with only the front doors to go on the T6.
I don’t want to over buy silent coat. Anyone done this recently? If so how many sheets did you use?
Many thanks
Nick

Recently done my inner door skins and door plastics in dodo mat. I used approx 4/5 sheets per item.