In the end I fitted 9mm Battons cut from the old ply and fitted 12mm ply on top then the usual alto Lino. I put sound deadening between the battons then gold thermal insulation over the top. I then cut and carpeted a strip of ply and spaced the original step and it looks spot on. The profile of the cut matches exactly the inner sliding door panel and this makes a great template . I can load photos if anyone is interested
 
Thanks - very useful - Is the spacer underneath the step just 12mm ply or is it layered to more than that?

Simon
 
Copied the actual floor 9mm plus 12mm screwed together then sikaflexed down. The outer trim piece is x2 9mm ply screwed together and fills the gap to about 25mm then covered / wrapped in carpet
 
Oops when I look at my photos looks like I used x2 12 mm ply as the packing pads - sorry
 
I can confirm that the Caravelle step is the right height for the Reimo Powerrail floor if that helps anyone. In this photo I haven't quite finished trimming the floor edges so the step is pulling out slightly at the sides. Thats fixed now.
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@OllieGBR ....Yes I like the kitchen. It’s from Northern Rose campervan conversions in Sherburn in Elmet near Tadcaster. N Yorks .Its a premium kitchen in high gloss grey / black trim and has the inset catches/ hinges. Chap to speak to is called Kev. They can precut for the smev 9xxx etc. I had to fit it myself , I think they just sell them now. I can send some photos if you wish .
 
Hi,
I’m looking to soundproof and insulate my van, prior to putting in a 3/4 bed and new ply floor. However I found some damp on the existing ply floor, by the drivers side rear door pillar. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where it’s coming from and how to stop it please?

Also the holes in the floor where I’ve removed the bench seat mounts, would the soundproofing be sufficient to seal it when heated up and applied? Or would I need something extra?

Lastly when I remove the anchors I was considering using roofers silicone to plug the holes... any thoughts?

Thanks in advance

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If you search for roof rail bolts or similar you will find a lot of advice on these.

Pete
 
Hiya

So I've hit a bit of a nightmare...as in what to do for the best...having bought the jazzy pro van floor from dodomat which is supposed to go straight down and then your ply floor...
that would be all well and good, but im using factory seats and brackets...

so.... i have unlike most... used 5.0mm ply baton pieces and using tiger seal put down level with all the floor raised sections (most do 9mm ply batons which does sit a tad higher but they use 12mm floor ply methinks)
so then putting the pro van floor down on this... i can not use 9mm ply to get me under the seat bracket trims and get the 3mm alctro flooring under...

some have said go thinner ply... this worries me even though i have proper ocd done far too much baton laying.... and the pro van floor although foam and then hard at its top... is not very flexi..
if i were to just do sound deadening over the lot i could then do what i require but this wasnt in the plan...

ps it cost me nigh on £250 for 4 bits of pro van floor that i have now cut to brackets...i could cry.... thus wanted to use.....but have a vibe i may not...

pictures will show maybe better than my explanation, many thanks in advance... hopefully some words of wisdom as i have been in a bad mood for days trying to work out what to do...

is there a stick down sound deaden/insulation that is thin enough to assist maybe...

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First off, the silent coat sound deadening is designed to essentially add mass to the surface it is stuck to which reduces its ability to transmit vibration. I'm not sure how effective it will be if stuck to ply but obviously it will do something.

A couple of options spring to mind with regard to the seat brackets but nothing proven in the real world....
1) Could you trim the outer flanges of the seat bracket covers so that a thicker floor could be used?
2) I'm not sure how pliable the Altro floor is but would it be possible to recess the ply directly under the brackets so that the floor dips down just enough to allow the brackets to clip on? Admittedly they are not particularly secure so wouldn't be able to clamp anything down with any useful force.
 
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