Disabling Electric Tailgate Auto\Pressure Sensitive close

roadtripper

2021 Caravelle Executive
VIP Member
T6 Legend
This has been a concern of mine for some time and rather than continue to accidentally hijack this thread I thought I'd start a new one.

The problem

The short summary is that I have an electric powered tailgate on my T6.1 and, as can be seen in my avatar, I also have a rear kitchen and rig windbreakers on the tailgate and in future I am potentially going to have a tailgate awning. My issue is that my tailgate is configured to auto close when enough pressure is put on it, and that's really bad if it closes on the deployed kitchen or when things are rigged.

Other references

This has been asked, but no real solution found, in a couple of other threads:



In that last one there is a tantalising clue from @Robert that there may be settings reachable in VCDS, but not really enough for me to invest in a cable (yet)

Ideal Solution

In an idea world I would like to just disable the auto close. Close via the button is fine as very unlikely it will be triggered by accident.

I am baffled as to why there are switches for the side doors to do exactly this as standard, but not the tailgate.

Things tried

I've been tinkering with virtual trailers as part of trying to charge the van when it sits on the drive. This does seem to block opening from the remote but nothing else, manual opening is fine and when open the auto close still triggers.

I have tried forcing the tailgate to stop by hand on the assumption this may lock out the system. It takes two hands to do that as there is quite some force with the weight of the tailgate. It does lock it out for a short while but a few minutes later everything, including auto close, re enables.

Propping the tailgate. I had wondered about getting some DIY props (the kind that hold plasterboard up) to brace the tailgate. I'm a bit concerned about the forces involved but the bigger issue is I don't want to have to carry 1 or 2 big props around all the time just in case. I think it might work for others in a camping use case, but the stop in a car park on a day out and have the kettle on, probably not.


Current Plan

Unfortunately when you have the powered tailgate it's not an additional module to the soft close but a whole new all in module. I had hoped to be able to put a switch in to just disable the powered element but it seems the only option is to disable everything, powered open and close, soft close and (I think) the electric latch release.

So far I have tested this by pulling the 30amp fuse. This certainly works but I haven't yet risked seeing what happens if the tailgate is mechanically latched or turned the ignition on. It's a bit tricky as the fuse is one of those with additional clips at the side to hold it in.

20230918_173726 (1).jpg


So my plan at the minute is to intercept that power line either at the fuse or the harness coupling block and switch it so I can make the tailgate safe when needed.

I plan to just depin the fuse feed or connection block and make connections in such a way I can quickly return to stock rather than cutting cables

It's a 30amp fused circuit so switches to do this are quite big. Instead I have some spare 646 relays and may use a smaller switch and one of those wired NC so there is only a power draw when disabled.

It's a bit less convenient than a switch at the rear but removing the rear side panels in the 6.1 Caravelle looks like an absolute mission and I don't want the parasitic draw of an RF type switch.


Conclusion

So, anyone got any other thoughts about something a bit less crude?
 
Build something like this but for 30A:


Surprising that there’s not really too many blade fuse switches around ready made
I'm thinking about those, most seem to protrude a long way up and might be at risk under the seat. At least with the full blade fuses a standard 6.3mm male blade should fit the receptacle.

I've seen people split a fuse tap and bend the second connector to make a connection sideways, but that relies on finding one that is in two bits not fully moulded...
 
I'm thinking about those, most seem to protrude a long way up and might be at risk under the seat. At least with the full blade fuses a standard 6.3mm male blade should fit the receptacle.

I've seen people split a fuse tap and bend the second connector to make a connection sideways, but that relies on finding one that is in two bits not fully moulded...

I would go with standard blades rather than try to split fuse taps or fuses. But the blade should be closer to 5mm

1695486330752.jpeg

I think you can make pretty sharp turn right after the blade crimp as long as you make sure the cables dont move around, tie them down with cable ties after the bend to keep them from moving. There’s also split spades - maybe these could be used with a slight bend and of course some extra insulation.


1695486473606.png
 
I'd also been looking at these designed for non contact current monitoring of circuits:


s-l1200.webp
 
I've also got hold of some 646 relays in the same bases that should clip into the spare ways in my seat base fuse carrier

20231004_214319.JPG
 
So finally got around to at least MK1 of a solution as our big roadtrip is coming up.

Rather than a relay I found one of these from a previous project. It's a high current toggle switch with a safety cover. Normally it's designed so that you lift the cover and turn it on, then a quick push of the cover flicks it off. I want it to work the other way around so I turn the tailgate module off and it's normally on.
20240203_141316.JPG
There's a little tab on the cover that engages with the switch so I had to Dremel that flush to use it the wrong way around.

I then used some salvaged from an eBay Golf fuse box repair wires to populate the empty fuse holder next to the one with the 30A fuse in.

20240203_143833.JPG

One loops up to tap into the existing fuse position with a standard spade terminal, it's a fraction wider than a fuse blade but there is plenty of space. The other one is but crimped to a wire that runs to the back of the seat base and back. The return wire ends in a spade terminal back into the original fuse position.

The switch is screw terminal not spade sadly. So I terminated in a small ring crimp. When on I'll use some heatshrink over the whole terminal and screw to ensure nothing comes loose or shorts

20240203_143846.JPG

I then drilled a spare seat base back I had found on eBay with a step drill, secured the switch and cover, tightened the screws and heat shrinked. Annoyingly I couldn't find my roll of cloth tape so I had to loom the two wires with normal tape.

20240203_150028.JPG

Some fettling of the cable run and get everything back in place and the final result is quite pleasing. The switch is tucked well into the recess and it's unlikely to get knocked and the cover protects it. But when we park up and have the tailgate up and kitchen deployed I can now flip the cover and switch up to disable the tailgate power with the ignition off like this:

20240203_153431.JPG
Then when pack away the kitchen and rain guards I can flip the cover down and repower the tailgate.

Interestingly it closes with a rapid beeping very different from the normal warning. However once closed normal behaviour is returned.

I've not risked turning the ignition on with the tailgate disabled and I'm going to try and avoid that.

But now I don't need to worry about the pressure sensitive close accidentally triggering and wrecking the kitchen pod and tailgate.
 
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