Power-closing door problems

[T6 - G]

Hi help needed with power sliding doors. I’ve checked all forums without being able to the fault. Van: T6.1, 2020, Combi.
NS door, dash light flashing. Checked the 1.27 ohms on the trap sensor strip ok. Changed over the control units between doors, not the issue. Cleaned rails, no good. When I turn the ignition on, hold the switch the door opens, hold the switch door closed. I can repeat this process. Soft close works fine. Child door lock works fine.
The Light on dash flashes. Door handle, Key fob do not work..
Any ideas of what next to check?? - I feel it’s a sensor, but I’m not sure where left to look?

 

[roadtripper]

Do your interior lights work as expected and/or central locking?

I'm wondering if the power opening/closing is not working as it believes the door is already open and/or closed?

 

[T6 - G]

Update - I've changed the control unit from inside the one sliding door to the other sliding door - this is not the issue. Checked the fuses in the dash - not the issue. Checked the fuses under the passenger seat - not the issue. I've changed over the large control units + small units again in the rear - not the issue. Moved all of the wires in the sliding door, no change. Purchased the Carista - Sliding door opening motor - Current too high, code 12313. The motor works when holding the button down, both to open + close, therefore i don't think the motor is at fault, unless its the current? Is there anything else is left to check? - I've read all of the articles on the forums, I've found various fault finding ideas, but nothing seems to work... Help would be appreciated.

 

[Pauly]

The dash light flashing is how the van indicates it has sensed a problem, you need a fault scan of the van to get some direction

 

[n10n]

Purchased the Carista - Sliding door opening motor - Current too high, code 12313. The motor works when holding the button down, both to open + close, therefore i don't think the motor is at fault, unless its the current?

The motor would take too much current if

a) the door is mechanically too heavy to move so that the motor has to do more than normal amount of work
b) the supply voltage to the motor is too low - the current will go up if supply voltage goes down
c) the motor is indeed somehow broken, eg cannot spin freely

I think a) and b) sound most likely so I would first inspect / lubricate rollers etc mechanics of the door. If that didn't help I would start measuring voltages. Eg first by checking starter battery and aux (if fitted) are fully charged, unpinning the supply wire from motor connector and checking I get solid voltage there when it's separated from the motor and the door is operated. Or maybe even by pulling a temporary wire from the module to the motor. Wiring inspections tend to be slow and tedious - any kind of elimination checks to rule out *what the issue is not* may help.

Did the fault reported by Carista have any additional information like (even incorrect) date, frequency etc?

 

[T6 - G]

The motor would take too much current if

a) the door is mechanically too heavy to move so that the motor has to do more than normal amount of work
b) the supply voltage to the motor is too low - the current will go up if supply voltage goes down
c) the motor is indeed somehow broken, eg cannot spin freely

I think a) and b) sound most likely so I would first inspect / lubricate rollers etc mechanics of the door. If that didn't help I would start measuring voltages. Eg first by checking starter battery and aux (if fitted) are fully charged, unpinning the supply wire from motor connector and checking I get solid voltage there when it's separated from the motor and the door is operated. Or maybe even by pulling a temporary wire from the module to the motor. Wiring inspections tend to be slow and tedious - any kind of elimination checks to rule out *what the issue is not* may help.

Did the fault reported by Carista have any additional information like (even incorrect) date, frequency etc?

Thanks for the advice - yes, a) or b) sounds the most likely - I'll get the multi meter out tomorrow and see what readings i'm getting from the motor. I replaced the van battery last week as I thought it could be a voltage issue. No leisure battery fitted. I will also check the top rail sensor, i did wiggle the wires, but nothing happened. The door did start working a week or so ago for a few days then it stopped. I'd charged the vans battery, then the door started working, hence why i thought the van battery was dead - the volts were low 12.26 - new battery around 12.6+. I have also charged the new battery just in case, no joy.

 

[Caravelle Dan]

I'm sure the pinch sensor should be about 1.2Kohm. Also of you look at Channel 010 (from memory!) On the appropriate Door Control Module you can see at what position the last fault event occurred and the details of the last 3 faults. The faults are numbers which indicates what the fault is. Im in the process if trying to get to the bottom of my door issue, made harder by the massive back order for parts from VW.

 

[T6 - G]

I'll also run another dianotics - there were other fualts

 

[T6 - G]

This morning, I've checked the pinch sensors again on both doors - 1.2 ohms both sides, I also built a set of resistors to by pass the strip, just to double check, this has not solved the issue, therefore I don't think it's the pinch sensor. The ohm reading on the top positional sensor on both sides is the same, so assuming this is ok, however i'm not 100% sure? Motor check, as the switch is flashing, there's no power to the motor. Pressing the button after ignition is on, the system by passes the circuit, the door opens and the motor is reading 12v. I've checked the volts etc. to the motor from the control unit, both left and right side register the same volts when the motor is on operation. It doesn't feel like it the actual motor is the issue or the control units as these are switched from the left door to right door and the right door still works perfectly, the left door has the issue. With the motor unplugged, the ignition turned on to by pass mode, the latch motor works. I wiggled every wire I can find, the dash light is still flashing. I've used Carista again, fault 12313 - sliding door opening motor: Current too high. Other details logged: Freeze frame - Priority 4, Malfunction frequency counter 1, Unlearning counter 40. The latch motor opens and closes the door when the override is on, following ignition turn on / off. I'm really struggling to understand where the issue could be... There's no signs of water or damp anywhere by the door / rear quarters. When the fault is reset in Carista, i was expecting the switch to stop flashing, then start flashing as soon as the button is pressed. After reset the switch is still flashing, but all codes are cleared. The code reappears as soon as the button is pressed. Every time i use the door in by pass mode, it opens and closes. Any other ideas very much welcomed...

 

[n10n]

You have gone quite some lengths in investigations already. I still feel the wires from from the module to the motor would be most suspect, ie white/orange and white/brown in this image. Feed (red) and ground (brown) too but they're shared with latching etc so should affect more than just opening and closing.

Looking at the wiring diagram and V293 motor, 4 of the wires go to something like magnet switches or rotary encoders within the motor unit - I don't recognise that symbol. I think, though I'm absolutely not sure of this, these would indicate the stop positions of the travel. If so, and door stop position could not be detected due to their wires or stuck magnet switch, could lead to high current as the motor would keep trying to move the door past it's actual close position. So... that's just an idea and not sure if a viable theory.

 

[n10n]

Also I found some references to Sharan (not a T6 I know) sliding doors requiring basic settings to learn their ways.

This page suggests there might be a similar procedure for T6 sliders - I haven't ever needed that and I do not know if this would even work. Also requires VCDS (or probably OBD11) access.

EDIT: and found symbol similar to used in the diagram meaning speed sensor so most likely the two sensors in the motor unit are indeed rotary encoders.

 

[n10n]

And finally, a silly thought I'm sure but let's just make sure we're on a same page and talking about items 1 and 11 in this image, left side of course.

 

[T6 - G]

Ok, thank you for the wiring diagram, the logic seems right around the motor system. I do have an update - I was thinking, even with the new battery the start-stop function on the van wasn't working. I thought it would be wise to disconnect the battery and fully charge. I headed out to make sure the start/stop wasn't working which is was definitely not. After being out for an hour, I headed back home, i stopped the van to park up on the drive way, the start - stop worked and then if by magic the light on the dash went out. When i finished parking, i tried the door and it worked fine. My original theory of the battery / lack of power somehow seems right, which could also suggest why the motor was not working correctly. The new battery, Bosch S5, A13 - 95ah, AGM s on charge. I tested the battery on the meter before installing in the van, it was showing around 12.6V/12.8V.
Is there any reason why the left hand side door opening system could be very sensitive, requiring a fully charged battery? / Could the start-stop function be linked to the door system in anyway?
The power right hand side door has never stopped working and the rear power tail gate has not stopped working. All the wires in the around the battery seem in very good condition, i'd checked when i took the old battery out. Also the battery area all looked fine and clean. The sliding door rails are nice and clean on the right hand side. This is very strange...

 

[Caravelle Dan]

Ok, thank you for the wiring diagram, the logic seems right around the motor system. I do have an update - I was thinking, even with the new battery the start-stop function on the van wasn't working. I thought it would be wise to disconnect the battery and fully charge. I headed out to make sure the start/stop wasn't working which is was definitely not. After being out for an hour, I headed back home, i stopped the van to park up on the drive way, the start - stop worked and then if by magic the light on the dash went out. When i finished parking, i tried the door and it worked fine. My original theory of the battery / lack of power somehow seems right, which could also suggest why the motor was not working correctly. The new battery, Bosch S5, A13 - 95ah, AGM s on charge. I tested the battery on the meter before installing in the van, it was showing around 12.6V/12.8V.
Is there any reason why the left hand side door opening system could be very sensitive, requiring a fully charged battery? / Could the start-stop function be linked to the door system in anyway?
The power right hand side door has never stopped working and the rear power tail gate has not stopped working. All the wires in the around the battery seem in very good condition, i'd checked when i took the old battery out. Also the battery area all looked fine and clean. The sliding door rails are nice and clean on the right hand side. This is very strange...

I find this very interesting. I have been chasing a fault with my LH door that appeared to disappear when I changed the battery last winter, I had about 8 months with not a single fault and as soon as the weather changed (or perhaps the load on the battery) I am having issues again. However I never get a flashing dash light. I get an intermittent 'Data Transfer Loss to Sliding Door'. I've replaced the guide rail reader coil and the upper bar kettle with transponder, swapped the door sender unit between doors and still get the same fault. I am wondering if a larger upgraded battery might make it go away again.

 

[T6 - G]

The fault had been very intermittent, but I had noticed the door did play up if it the weather was wet (could have also been cold) - I thought water was getting in some where and causing issues, but the van is dry in all of the places i'd been working.
The Varta battery that came on the van, 2020 T6.1 was a 75ah and 800A, the new bosch S5 A13 battery capacity is slightly bigger at 95 Ah 850A. I've now purchased a victron battery charger / conditioner as well as the victron battery indicator so i can view the charge levels. After reading up, the battery charger I have been using may not have been powerful enough to get the battery to full charge. I read that 80%+ charge is needed for the start - stop function to work on the van. I'm going to keep the van on the charger and see what happens - I'll provide updates if the fault re-occurs and the battery charge is showing max. I will also check the volts on the battery when fully charged. I'm wondering if the new battery i'd purchased was in fact fully charged or below 80%...

 

[roadtripper]

Which Victron model did you buy?

Any charger will generally get a battery charged, it's not usually an issue of it not being powerful enough. However lower current chargers will take a longer time to charge and in extremes with a charger that uses multistage charging there are sometimes maximum times for each stage to complete (if not the charger decided the battery is faulty and stops charging)

There isn't a link between the door and the start stop - but if your problematic door is a bit stiffer then both may be symptoms of a battery not holding it's charge as well as it did.

Batteries will not generally be delivered fully charged. If you recently changed the battery and didn't do the coding to tell the BCM then start stop will not work until the BCM is confident it has learned the new battery - usually between 10-15 reasonable drives.

 

[T6 - G]

I coded the new battery when fitted. I’ve moved the doors manually, the left side did not seem any stiffer than the other side which also has been moved manually. I wouldn’t have thought the start stop was on the same circuit, thanks for confirming.
New charger on order, due tomorrow.

Victron Energy​

Blue Smart IP65 12-Volt 15 amp 230V, Battery Charger, Bluetooth (UK)​

The charger I have is an old basic car charger, low amps. The light goes from red to green when charged, the new battery didn’t go green. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Victron-En...mzn1.fos.4c560c31-6601-464f-a219-d10a40a4ca65

 

[T6 - G]

Right, new charger arrived as well as the Victron Energy Battery Indicator that i'd purchased. The indicator shows a charge level %, with a colour code: red, amber,green on a light bar. Monday I charged the battery to ensure a full charge. Tuesday I fitted the Battery indicator, this was showing a charge between 60-80%, amber reading. Turning the ignition on, the left hand side door light was flashing, and the door had stopped working. Today, I have charged the battery again, the indicator is now showing green 80-100% charge level, the side door light has stopped flashing and left hand door is working again without an issue. Following my investigations I do feel that the battery level impacts the left hand door, making it stop working... The van is standard combi without leisure battery. I plan to check the indicator light / door light over a period of time to verify my findings. Is there anything on the van that could be draining power when it's turned off that i'm not aware off / need to check? - Battery charge level now at 14.5 volts according to the charger.

 

[n10n]

The van has a "smart" alternator which charges the main battery only to 80% in order to leave some room for the regenerative braking. Hence it's sort of ok for the battery to be seemingly little bit low after a drive, works as designed. Obviously this normal little bit low charge should not affect the sliding door functionality. The van also has a quiescent current monitoring so you should get a fault code in Carista if there was something draining the battery too much when turned off.

Otherwise sounds like you might be on to something - if the other door systematically works ok I still suspect a poor connection somewhere in the door electrics wiring.

 

[T6 - G]

Thanks for the outline of the charging system, good to know the 80% level from the battery. Therefore, my indicator light should most likely be amber..
This morning I've switched the van on, door switch flashing, start/stop symbol with X, so not working. Battery 12.8 volts on the multi meter, the battery charge indicator light amber, between 60-80% charge level.
I've charged the battery again, indicator light changed to green, volts on battery 13.8V from the multi meter. I then checked inside the van, dash light had stopped flashing, left hand door opens without issue. No issues reported in Carista, suggesting anything in the van is draining the battery.
So there's definitely an electrical fault, somewhere in the system on the left hand door. From a google search: 1) The current required to carry a given power decreases when you increase the voltage because the power is the product of the current with the voltage (and power factor). 2) For a given power, we require that the product of the transmission line voltage and current is constant. So, holding the power constant, an increase in voltage results in a decrease in current.
So based on the above, when using Carista, I have the message, motor current too high when the door light flashes. There is no such issue reported, when the voltage is above 13.8V. There is something within the left hand door system that is not working correctly. Any ideas of what i should check next ....