AT6 OYEH! Reflex Silver T6 SWB Kombi with added ABT

[John A]

My list of things to do now stands at:

• Front parking sensor retrofit
• Sort out the errant trailer electrics (always shows a trailer connected in reverse until the electrical circuit is broken by illuminating the brake lights)
• Clutch (and therefore flywheel) - it is struggling with getting all the lowdown torque and I have a feeling it probably needs uprating, although you think they'd be able to cope with 300 lbs ft, because it can't be much more than that
• Bit of investigation into what feels like a bit of breathlessness. I wonder if there's a slight boost leak, although nothing has been shown when I plug in (apart from the occasional boost pressure regulation issue) and it did make me consider there might be a small hole in the intercooler, as these are mostly likely to spring a leak from being bashed with a stone, right?

Other than that some full LED headlights might be nice and I did consider another brake upgrade to a 360mm LR disc at the front with the Audi S4/5 Akebono 6 pot caliper, although I read it was likely to need a spacer fitted to clear the caliper and I can't be bothered with that.

 

[John A]

Very little to report of late.
First camping trip of 2025 at Campervan Campout went without incident.

An indicator bulb went out but without the characteristic double-speed flashing, so it could have been gone for a while…
The filament looked intact as well, so not sure what the problem was other than a new bulb sorted it.
Interestingly enough I had a look at Autobulbs Direct for a replacement and they didn’t list one, but I found out the right lamp elsewhere online and they were stocked in Halfords.

I also (don’t tempt fate) think I’ve sorted the issue with the trailer electrics.



My van was retrofitted (prior to my ownership) with these Jaeger electrics - I’m guessing it was a PF Jones supplied kit with a Westfalia detachable towbar.
I towed once - in January 2024 - and since then, every time I select reverse the first time after starting, the OPS was inactive and the display showed a trailer, until I hit the brake and (at a guess) opened a circuit which tripped the module back into working.

I decided I’d have a look for a new module as I was told to replace the socket and that the best idea was to “rip it all out and start again” at £500

I found the identical module on Amazon for £120 and ordered there as it would be easy to return. So far so good - it seems to have solved the problem, so that every time I select reverse the first time, it triggers OPS.

 

[John A]

Managed to get from the first to the last camping trip without writing a single post....

The last camping trip of the year (and bear in mind, I only do three - four at a PUSH) was at BusFest.
It rained and, when I put the awning up and tightened one of the storm straps, it yanked itself clean off the side of the awning. Lying in bed in the back of the van at around 3:40 am on the Saturday morning, thinking every bit of canvas on site was going to get flattened and I would wake up and we wouldn't be in Kansas anymore, I was relieved to see that actually nothing had happened, despite the missing strap.
Thankfully, it's covered (or at least appears to be) by Olpro's lifetime guarantee. I sent it off about 6 weeks ago and haven't seen it since, so I hope it's back in time for Campervan Campout.









In other news, A T6 sailed through its last test without an advisory and had an oil and filter change. I did also ask for the brake fluid to be done but they changed the fuel filter instead...
I go so far towards booking it for brake fluid but after I'd decided that I'd sorted out my garage for a reason, had all the tools and most of the know-how, then I should probably do it myself.
I only banged my head twice, blew at least 8 fuses trying to run my compressor and dropped the brake fluid reservoir cap down into the engine bay and had to take the undertray off, so I'd consider that a win. I did much research looking at how many litres of fluid I should be using to flush it and didn't find anything conclusive other than "about 2 to 5 litres".
Out of the five litres I bought, I used one. I emptied and refilled the reservoir and it didn't take me long to hit clean fluid (it wasn't that dirty to begin with). Pedal feels good, van stops as it should so I'd call that job done I guess, even with the slight nagging doubt I didn't use enough fluid....

However it was really nice to work indoors for the first time



Elsewhere:

• Washer jets - the same washer jet clogged again. Only the right hand one, the original left jet has been fine, but I've now had to replace 2 of the right side. Took ages to find the revised part number for the newer T6.1 heated yet, but a pair were sourced for under £40
• Wheel colour change - probably bronze/gold. This will coincide with having the front bumper repainted, as I've cracked the front valance (the fancy ABT one) so that needs to be repaired as well
• I will pull the plug on an OPS retrofit. I keep looking at the options and there is/was a firm in Coventry who could supply and fit for less than £600, but I am still not convinced the replacement plastics will be right. I might as well spend £400 on the kit from Car Systems and have the plastics painted gloss black.

 

[Skyliner33]

@John A what tools diy you buy / use for the brake fluid change?

I do mine on the motorbike, but I can reach the brake pedal/lever and the calliper bleed nipple at the same time.

 

[John A]

@John A what tools diy you buy / use for the brake fluid change?

I do mine on the motorbike, but I can reach the brake pedal/lever and the calliper bleed nipple at the same time.

I’ve got a 100 litre compressor and a Sealey pneumatic bleeder tool (VS020 I think?), so it’s a 1-person job and it just pulls the fluid out and into a bottle.

 

[John A]

Small updates:

I watched my pal put a new battery on his T5.1 and saw he had a battery cover, which I didn't realise was a thing.
So when Vanstyle had a free shipping event, I bought one and the retaining clip that goes in to the trim to hold the screw in.



This was fitted after I'd put a new battery on it. I can't remember what I bought now - a 70Ah Bosch 096 AGM I think. The original VW AGM battery was down to 11.5 V and I was struggling to crank it over when it was really cold.

I had to trim a bit off the outside edge for it to fit, but that was 2 minutes with a Dremel.



However, the plastic clip doesn't seem to want to stay seated, so you can lift the corner and lift the clip out with it. Wonder if I am missing something



The bumper (and particularly the ABT bits) had started to pick up some knocks.
There was a split in the right hand leading edge and the corner on the left hand side in the arch had been knocked off where it had cracked. Fortunately I managed to pick it up and keep hold of it.









I dropped it off for paint this week at Auto Clinic in Rushden and am really happy with the result.
They told me the crack in the front edge was full of filler, so it must have been done before I bought the van (nearly) 3 years ago and it's finally worked itself loose. I know there was a crack on the edge of the corner, which I finished off when I caught it reversing off a kerb side.





I had also scratched the passenger door when reversing into a tight space next to a wall. I thought I was parallel to it, but what I hadn't realised was that the front edge of the wall had been knocked and was leaning forward, so when I turned slightly to finish the move, I caught the line of tiles on the door. Not terrible but a 5 inch scratch all the way through the paint, so it needed doing.

Next job is the wheels, as I caught one at speed through a roundabout and did two opposite corners in a tight car park, which I entered knowing full well what would happen.
I think they will go bronze.

 

[John A]

Well I said the next job was the wheels, but recently I went to open the passenger side sliding door and, when it wouldn't unlock on the third try, I decided something must be up...
Couldn't open it from the inside either and when I tried, the lock mechanism seem to be resisting and wouldn't release the locking rod to open the door. Knowing there are a few known issues with the locks ranging from them getting wet, to bits of plastic coming loose and the whole lock mechanism falling off its mount, I thought it would be worth giving the door a thump from the inside while working the door handle.
It worked....
When the door opened, it was clear the bottom roller hinge was not doing what it should as you could hear it dragging along the channel.

I looked at all the options and suggestions of replacement parts, including here and YouTube, and did my usual ivverin' and ovverin' over whether to buy OEM or aftermarket.

This is one good reason why you don't buy OEM...



So I did the only sensible thing after spending 5 hours looking for a new roller hinge and paid the £181 plus post (£189 in all).

What got me in the end was that when I looked at the aftermarket versions, they didn't all have the pivoting catch and none had the cable guide. It was helpfully pointed out that the cable guide was bolted on, so I found that out the hard way



Due to a DHL delay, the part I ordered didn't arrive until after the weekend.

I took the old roller off at the bracket for reasons best known to myself.
When I did I saw the large, vertical wheel had completely seized up and probably has a knackered bearing. I think that had altered the position of the roller in the channel, which caused the door to sit slightly lower (the rear roller needed fully adjusting up as well...)



The reason for removing the bracket was, looking at how the spring linked the cable guide to the pivoting catch, I thought it would be easier to refit as a complete, built up unit.

I wish I hadn't bothered - I think it made it harder to try and line up the bracket with the door and when I'd put it all back together, I was getting a lot of resistance when the door was fully open and it wouldn't close at all.

I put paint marks on the detent peg and the catch to see where it was lining up.





That looked like the door was sticking out too much.
I tried raising the door on the bracket, I tried adjusting it fore and aft, but it didn't do any good.
It was only when I looked more closely, I saw the rollers weren't sitting square in the channel and were trying to slide inside the catch in the sill, which was why there was so much resistance.

Even now looking at this I can see the vertical roller isn't inline with the channel.



It took removing the hinge and the catch to realise what I'd done wrong. I left the bracket in place and unbolted the roller hinge and the cable guide, which means refitting the spring...

Once I'd done that and set the height of the bracket to match the height of the hinge, the door closed. It needs the spring as that's how it is able to grab the striker on the lower catch when it's open, but I am waiting for a small hook and pick set to arrive.
Anyway - what a nause. A job that should have taken about 20 minutes ran in to at least an hour on and off. Fortunately I have a garage big enough to fit the van in, so I can leave it in there with all the doors open and not risk anything getting nicked or wet.



AT60 also took us to Camper Mart this year - it was a busy one as we did some stuff for the Show and Shine, did an hour of live broadcast, an hour of pre recorded programme that I'd already put together, presented the Dubsta Sound Off, presented the Show and Shine awards and finished off with an interview with Shelly from Jazz Events.

On the way to Camper Mart on the Saturday, I took the opportunity to take my Corrado to Hilton Performance Restorations in Bridgnorth, who are hopefully going to sort out the shoddy work that VDR Motorsport did when engine converting it. Coincidentally I'd also managed to break the driver's side door lock on this one as well....





I am not a towing expert and I think this was only the fourth time I have towed a trailer.
I don't know what power my T6 is running - it's a 2.0 TDI 140 (EU5) with a stage 1 map, so I guess somewhere around 180 bhp and 400 Nm torque (that torque figure feels a bit overstated to me, but if the standard van is 350 Nm, then it can't be far off.
It tows really well - I know the trailers on their own don't weigh a huge amount but with it empty, you wouldn't know it was there. With the car on it (about 1200kg), it's absolutely fine and still shows around 32 mpg.

In other T6-related news, I have noticed the headlight washers haven't worked in a while - I do need to put screenwash in and I know they won't operate below a certain level of liquid, but I have a feeling I might have used the wash wipe in the freezing weather and possibly popped a hose off.

I also got suckered in by the email from Travelin-Lite about the modded W8 Interior light. I know it's a lot of money for an interior light, but I like the submarine lights and miss them from the ambient lighting in the cab.



Wheels next, if I have any money left over from fixing the Corrado.

 

[John A]

I've only gorn a bleedin' done it, ain't I?!


My £5.83 spring hook and pick set turned up at about 15:20 this afternoon and, after having to take a work call (boring) I'd got the spring seated by 15:30.
Thank god for that, because I was slightly beginning to doubt my technical ability and motor function and I hate attempting a job and then making it worse.

I left the keys in the kitchen so I've not had a chance to actually lock the van and try unlocking it again, as I had to take more work calls (boring) but fingers crossed it's all good.

 

[John A]

Since I replaced the roller hinge on the left side sliding door, that door has failed to unlock a couple or three times. I daresay there is a separate problem to the hinge, but it was definitely buggered and the main roller had stopped rolling, so maybe I should do a bit more investigating.

Next on the list of things I didn’t need to do, but did anyway - the Travelin-Lite W8 light (modded version). The modified version adds a hard-wired adaptor to the connector, in case you don’t have room to fit the light into the overhead console.
I don’t know whether I did or not or if I could have got away with a standard one and their adaptor loom - I didn’t check, I just assumed that they all needed to be modded. Anyway, never mind. The cost was probably no different to buying the modified version vs the unmodified version and the loom.

I have had half a dozen cars now that have that submarine-style lighting - possibly starting with a 2005 Mondeo, but I can’t be certain - but I did like it when I first noticed it.
Would it make a difference to my overall happiness to have it in the van? No idea - I rarely drive it in the dark if I can help it, as I will leave work before it gets dark if I can.
I just thought, “bugger it, I’ll have one of them….”, so I did.

Fitting is reasonably straight forward:
Take the old light out
Feed the yellow illumination cable through the headliner and down the A pillar (you have to undo that as well) - I use a nylon draw tape that I got in Wickes. I've used it for loads of things now, including rewiring the tailgate in my 2001 Clio when I replaced it.
Use the supplied Posi-tap to tap into the back of the headlight switch for illumination
Swap your handsfree microphone
Plug it in
Job done

First problem was one of the release clips on the headlight switch wouldn’t release. Having anticipated this happening (and wanting to replace my light switch, which had a crack in the bezel) I bought another one from eBay. I’ve opted for a couple of B7 Passat switches now because they have the fancy silver trim on them and also they’re about £12 second hand.

To get the light switch out, I ended up breaking it, which meant it came out very easily actually.
I then used the bare end of the illumination wire to test which connection to tap into - I wanted the dimmer resistor to act on the red LEDs whereas some folk like them to be on all the time. I don’t see the point in them being on in the daytime.

Second problem - when I plugged it in, when the switch was in the off position, the light would come on with the door and vice versa, so I knew a pin swap would be needed. Also, TL’s instructions said that some T6s would need a pin swap and added a handy diagram.



This is great except my T6, and probably lots of others, only has 3 connectors to the light switch…

I tried to get the pin out using a pick, but came to the conclusion that it needed a tool each side. I had the Laser terminal tool but no idea what I did with it, so I bought a new one at £16-odd. I saw that Sealey do a version which is about £4 cheaper and there are lots of tools on Amazon, but if they're cheap and bend easily, they're a waste of money.

I took the connectors out, bridged them at least twice, popped two fuses and finally worked out which pin did what and where it needed to go in the plug.

This is the before:



And this is the after (or at least the relevant positions of the connectors before refitting it):



I can’t actually remember and the quality of my photos is not good enough to tell, but I think I swapped the two outside connectors over. I know I should have done it properly with a multimeter, and a pencil and bit of paper, but I couldn’t be bothered and if it didn’t work, I was going to send it back anyway.

It needs to come out again to fit the LEDs that TL didn’t send me, so I’ll check again then and take a proper photo in daylight, not in my garage.




Was it worth it?
£110 with a discount code
£12.75 for a new headlight switch
£16 for a terminal tool

Absolutely not, but I’ve done it now, so it's too late.
I still haven't the wheels done bronze, mostly because I've spent far too much money on that stupid Corrado.

 

[John A]

Renewal time at the end of this week and the start of my fourth year of ownership of A T6....
Sub £400 after speaking directly to Howden's Thatcham branch.

I've paid for insurance, all with A-Plan/Howden:
2023 - £320
2024 - £498
2025 - £449
2026 - £380

With no points, no claims, full NCD, etc.
Now here's the thing. I knew to call the Thatcham branch after meeting A-Plan at the festivals, Run The Ring, etc.
When I called them back in March 2023, the call was forwarded to the Stratford on Avon branch due to capacity - I am now told that Thatcham has a set number of partner branches that will offer the Thatcham Scheme for modded vans, rather than it be a random divert/forward.

The bit for me is that the Thatcham branch offers the discounts to club members, if you make an enquiry at a show, etc., and I assumed that these discounts would be applied by any branch arranging your insurance, but I learned last week (when insuring directly with the Thatcham team) that no discount had been applied.
That's a right bummer, because I'd highlighted the discount I believed was applicable in both 2024 and 2025 and was reassured that it was a discounted price. This is no shade on A-Plan or Howden, but if you do have a discount code, you may want to make sure you talk directly to the Thatcham branch and, if your call is diverted to another branch, hang up and ring again.

I've got three out of four vehicles insured with Howden now because their service has been pretty good and they gave me the best price on the non-dailies, beating both Keith Michaels on the price of my RenaultSport Clio and Lancaster on the non-standard Corrado.
Lancaster were particularly bad as they wanted to charge me a sizeable admin fee for changing address on the policy when the other insurers had auto-refunded due to what I assume was less risk at the new address.
I'd also previously been with Flux but when I changed my daily from an A4 to an A6, they wanted to increase my premium by over £750. It was only just £400 in the first place.
I've since changed the A6 for an Octavia vRS and this year's renewals are coming in at a shade over £300.
Bring on my 50th birthday and a lifelong membership to Saga....

 

[John A]

The above gave me a bit of misty-eyed nostalgia over some of the past (Audis) and present cars - particularly the non-dailies I've not seen for a few weeks/months because they're in the garage again.....

My 2013 Audi A4 Avant SE Technik


I daily-drove this for nearly 5 years. It had S5 front brakes and Still Static H&R very low coilovers.
In SE Technik trim, it got an MMI nav, auto lights/wipers/mirrors and leather. Had I bought one 6 months newer, I would have had DAB, heated leather and an electric boot lid. It was £35/year to tax and, as an Avant (because estates are cool), it had 163 bhp and not 136 in the saloon. You can get higher output version but not in Technik trim and I wasn't prepared to pay the premium for an S-Line.

Until I bought this....

2017 Audi A6 Avant TDI Ultra S-Line Black Edition (is that a long enough name?)



It had all the stuff that the A4 didn't have - DSG, LED headlights, ambient cabin lighting, electric boot, MMI 4G with CarPlay, heated leather and a proper pan roof.
It rarely did more than 43-44 to a gallon and was always doing a regen, but it wouldn't or couldn't complete on my commute to work. I think the pressure differential sensors were knackered, so I bought a pair and didn't get around to fitting them before I sold it - a decision based on driving position (pedals offset to the right due to the differential - not a problem on LHD cars and was worse than the A4), the economy not being right and Mrs John decided she didn't want to daily drive the T6 anymore. There was no way she could daily this as her commute was 1 mile each way and the emissions control system on this would have been knackered.

The A6 went up for sale on the Friday and had sold by 10 am on the Monday morning.
In the 8 or 9 months I'd owned it, I lost about 600 quid.
By 2pm on the Monday afternoon, I had this:

Skoda Octavia vRS



It's a Gen 3 EA888 2.0 TSI - 245 bhp and on the 19" Xtreme alloys.
I've no idea if the black bits and the 19s are standard kit - Skoda initially sold the pre-facelift version of the Mark 3 as a 220 bhp car, with a 230 bhp option, then as a 230 with a 245 option and special edition. By the time this was registered, they were all 245 as standard and being DSG, gets the clever e-diff as part of the package. It's a cheap Golf GTI Performance Pack, which I couldn't afford and probably wasn't big enough.

I don't think there any options on it, so it doesn't have front OPS, heated seats pr a heated windscreen, which are the only options I'd have had.
Because it has lane assist (I assume that's standard), I was able to code in auto high beam and road sign recognition, which were quite pricey for a tick box. The latter is no good anyway, but never mind eh?
I also bought a second hand set of power folding mirrors and modules, which was a couple of hours to fit and code, so that adds puddle lights and auto folding on lock/unlock.
I have a Whiteline RARB to go on and am considering a set of four pots for the front.

Then there's this 1994 VW Corrado which was a 16V and now has a 20VT conversion.



It's a dreadful story involving a company called VRD Motorsport and a thread in itself.
After engaging with VRD to do a job that involved taking the running gear out of one 20VT converted Corrado and putting it into this one, I eventually got it back 18 months later and not a very good state.

It's now at Hilton Performance Restorations, whether the cost of the remedial work has exceeded the money I spent to have the job done in the first place.

Lastly, the 2001 Renaultsport Clio 172 track car



My second 172 - the first was a Flamer that I sold to buy a Mark 2 Golf, that I sold and bought the first 20V Corrado.
The Flamer used a bit of oil and had a few other previous-care issues.

This one feels a bit stronger and in my ownership it's been welded properly as they have a habit of going rotten, it's on springs and Cup-spec dampers, rear seat removed and a half-cage installed (but all the interior plastic and headlining retained), pair of Bimarco buckets and harnesses, Personal steering wheel, semi-slicks on lightweight 15s, proper engine mounts, noisy exhaust (cheap = noisy), sports cat, track day pads, RARB and a proper shifter.
It's currently in the garage as the ABS module needs to be replaced and I'm waiting for it to be done on an "I'll get round to it" basis, which is normally a bit cheaper. Well, it better had be!

Ideally, both the Corrado and Clio will be done and back with me by the end of April so I can actually enjoy them. The Corrado has been a work in progress since the end of 2020 and I've not actually been able to to drive it properly. The work done under VRD's instruction was described as "dangerous" and "a fire risk".

 

[John A]

Milestones
80k hit today. I’ve had the van since the end of March 2023 and it had (I think) 51,000 on it when I collected it, so a shade under 30,000 miles in 3 years.


And because it’s now £140 to fill the bloody thing with fuel, driving it is now a hypermiling exercise. As much as 47mpg is.


Which puts me on track to get > 620 miles from a tank. I reckon all long journeys would take it closer to 700, but I’ve had to commute to work (11 miles) as well.



This also looks like a near target of 400 miles between full regens as well.

 

[John A]

Haven’t bought any diesel since 28 March
Although I did use my Clio for a couple of journeys, so no wonder really.

Spent the afternoon this weekend giving the inside the first scrub since….slight shame…probably before Busfest last year and I’m not sure I’d cleaned the windscreen inside since before Camper Jam 2024



I have no idea if this is leather or pleather, possibly the latter although I suspect it also cost an arm and a leg. It’s from LLL Parts, who are an official parts dealer, with the ABT embroidery.
I cleaned it with The Leather Repair Company’s Deep Leather Cleaner & Protection Conditioner Care Kit. The only the seat base has been cleaned and conditioned/protected here.
Leather or not, the conditioner absorbed into the surface very quickly like it hadn’t been treated in years. The cleaner is really good and lifts all the dirt, leaving a matte finish.








It scrubs up alright for a ten year old van.
I also cracked out the Tornador to clean the carpets, which blew most of the dirt and dust away better than the Hoover would have sucked it out.
The Harrison Trim Supplies can mat has not fared very well. The heel pad is really worn and the stitching has broken - not what I would expect for not much more than 18 months and 12,000 ish miles.

 

[John A]

Back (on) Black - for now



The grey Supermetal wheels (is that what they are) were a little worse for wear.
I'd caught two opposite corners in a very tight car park, knowing full well I was going to before I even went in. Had done the offside rear straight-lining a roundabout and they needed a tidy up.
But who wants boring old satin grey.....



This is apparently Lamborghini Bronze satin and were done by R.S. Repairs in Rushden

When I took them off at the weekend, I discovered (again) another missing locking wheel bolt.
I can only assume that I didn't torque it up properly and it's worked loose and fallen out.

For £10.79 I was able to buy a set of four, without a key, matching the set already on the van, which was possibly cheaper than buying a new set with a key.



And now I've got three spares for when one inevitably falls out again.....

I've also noticed today that the van doesn't seem to be running right.
It feels like it's choked randomly through the rev range, especially mid range. I also noticed when I parked it at work, it felt hot (although that may have been more to do with me trying to drive it through the full rev range to see if it made a difference). Haven't had a chance to plug it in, but not sure what it will tell me given there aren't any warning lights on. Completed a full regen earlier this week, so it won't be that.

 

[John A]

Got to love a shiny bronze wheel.
Although it’s actually a satin finish, so it’s not shiny at all….

 

[Skyliner33]

Got to love a shiny bronze wheel.
Although it’s actually a satin finish, so it’s not shiny at all….

View attachment 326809

I do like that, if they came in that colour I might be tempted to get a set. I'm still not convinced by Bronze on Pure Grey though.

 

[John A]

I would have b ought the Chargers in bronze, but these were much cheaper. It's entirely possible they've cost less for the grey wheels and a bronze refurb than the Chargers were.

I'm not far off a set of tyres I reckon and I've got half an idea just to keep trying budget tyres - Nankang have an AS-3 now which is only £100

 

[John A]

It's been to hot to fit the wheels back on, so I have left them in the garage.
The pair of tyres that had been on the front are about on the wear markers, so they must be 2mm. The ones that had been on the back are around 3.5 - 4mm (either my eyesight or my gauge is not particularly accurate) - that's a set of tyres that had been on since April last year. That translates to about 9,000 miles.
So I don't recommend the Giti Control P10 for wear.

In other van-related news, a running issue made itself known middle of the previous week. Felt down on power, but intermittent and accompanied by the tell-tale sound of a boost leak. No lights on the dash, VCDS only giving an intermittent overboost code. Google telling me that the two can go together. Tried to find a mobile tech to come and do a smoke test, but they were all having a bank-holiday holiday.
Texted my friendly local go-to tech to ask if he had a smoke tester - he was also on holiday - but told me to go down and see his partner.

Him "You've come for a smoke test because you think you've got a boost leak"
Me "Yes but I've only come to see how soon you can do it"
Him "Now. What makes you think it's a boost leak?"
Me "It sounds like a boost leak and it doesn't work properly"
Him, opening bonnet, "fair enough..."
Him, closing bonnet approximately 8 seconds later, "you're intercooled is fxxxed"
Me "Are you the van whisperer now.....oh that is oil all over the front bumper...."



Him "get the bits you want and try not to drive it otherwise you'll block the DPF"

Prior to that, I'd noticed it driving it to Stratford on Avon (65 miles?) - it was running a regen cycle every 40 - 50 miles, so on a return trip it did 4 regens as the first happened practically straightaway. Didn't show any oil mist then - didn't drive it for 2 days and then when I took it down to the garage, there's the leak.

I looked at upgrade intercoolers and the Darkside hard pipe kit. I don't know if it's actually worth going for as I am never going to ask for more power from this van - it's fine as it is (about 180 bhp), is never driven hard and to make it worthwhile, will need injectors, turbo, full exhaust and for probably what, a 50-60 bhp gain and at least a £4k spend?

With the intercooler and the hard pipe kit coming in around £600+ and then some labour on top, I've gone OE.
Or at least OE spec. I'd already had a Mahle intercooler at £179 in my eBay list on the basis that it was the likely offender. The expected seller offer turned up to make it £170 and then a handy voucher appeared....



The keen eyed among you will have spotted that came out at £145.34
They're listed as the A and B revision intercooler with alloy end tanks. The C revision (which I assume is newer and £500+ from VW) has plastic end tanks. Other than whether they are more likely to crack, there probably isn't a lot of difference, but for £145 I'm not going to complain.

I've also had half a plan to put silicone boost hoses on through a combination of a half-thought of an existing boost leak, the longevity of silicone vs 10 year old rubber, the cost of silicone vs brand new rubber from VW and, also, that I had convinced myself when I did the silicone boost hoses on my diesel Focus (to replace perished rubber at half the cost) they definitely helped because they don't expand in the same way that rubber does. That last one may have come from the McDonald's school of Mechanics though.

Anyway



£190 delivered puts these nearly £80 cheaper that the Forge version. They come with the fitting on the end to clip straight into an OE intercooler, so should seal well.
Not expected until at least tomorrow (Thursday 28th May for anybody reading this in their augmented reality glasses, sitting on the toilet 20 years from now) and I doubt I will get a slot to fit it in until next week, at which point it may as well have a service and MOT.
For now I'll park it in the garage and drive the un-airconditioned torture machine (back pain) through the rest of this heat wave.

 

[John A]

• Bit of investigation into what feels like a bit of breathlessness. I wonder if there's a slight boost leak, although nothing has been shown when I plug in (apart from the occasional boost pressure regulation issue) and it did make me consider there might be a small hole in the intercooler, as these are mostly likely to spring a leak from being bashed with a stone, right?

Oh look, I'd even said it myself this time last year!

 

[John A]

The problem I've now got is, do I attempt it myself or do I take it to the garage?
Changing the intercooler is not the bit I have the problem with, it's removing the bumper and, more specifically, refitting it.
I just can't trust myself to remove the plastic clips without breaking them and then get the thing back onto the mounting brackets properly.

That alone is enough to make me go - the garage can do it