Propex HS2000 and it’s feed voltage..

[DaveyB]

I have one of these installed under my van as per another thread, however, since it being installed I have noted that the black control unit (the one with the rotary dials) keeps registering a fault.
Ultimately the red led light flashes 3 times, which indicates that the battery voltage is either below 10V or above 14.8V.
From what I could tell the system only seemed to be going into fault after driving.
Having spoken with a couple of companies at CamperJam this weekend I had a bit of a closer look, and ran some tests.
By pulling the fuse out of my leisure 12V circuits fuse board, effectively isolating the heater, then running the engine/ stopping it, replacing the fuse, the heater never goes into this Voltage fault mode. Sun is still powering the solar, battery voltage up around 14V, all is fine.
So conclusion. The heater is seeing the spike created by the intelligent alternator, and isolating itself for safety. The way around this, either drive without the fuse in and just replace it when you get where you are going, or fit an in-line switch in the 12V supply to the heater to isolate it when not in use.
I have called Propex Leisure in Ringwood Dorset, who make the units to feed this information back to them. They hadn’t got a clue, no doubt don’t understand the vehicles they fit these units to. But I asked them to make a note and add it to their files. Won’t hold my breath.

So if you have a Propex LPG heater in your T6, you may want to fit an isolating switch (i’m just going to use a standard single unipolar CBE switch - with led to remind me that i’ve not isolated it!). Because it is a pain in the botty trying to clear the fault and takes a lot of messing around, as pulling the fuse at that point doesn’t work.

Be interested to hear if anyone else with a Propex Heater has found this issue.

 

[Pauly]

Any ideas how long the overvoltage situation occurs for ?
I’m wondering if you could fit some sort of delayed relay to the heater supply so it doesn’t power up when initially firing up the engine ??

 

[Pauly]

Actually thinking about it you could wire the supply through a normally closed relay that is triggered by the ignition so every time you turn the key on the relay opens and disconnects the supply
I assume you don’t want to run the heater while your driving, the only downside would be if you needed to run the engine while camping as if it was cold the heater would be offline while the engine was on ??

 

[Pete C]

I have this heater, but fitted an isolating switch as you describe, as I saw little point having it permanently connected and drawing current all the time.
Therefore not had any issues like you describe, and we only run it when engine is off.

Pete

 

[andys]

I don't have one of these but couldn't you fit a voltage regulator in line between the fuse and the heater to handle the spike?

Edit: Those 2 better suggestions appeared before I finished typing ^

 

[DaveyB]

Any ideas how long the overvoltage situation occurs for ?
I’m wondering if you could fit some sort of delayed relay to the heater supply so it doesn’t power up when initially firing up the engine ??

No idea how long the spike lasts for or when it occurs during the charging cycle. Haven’t bothered trying to datalog it.

Actually thinking about it you could wire the supply through a normally closed relay that is triggered by the ignition so every time you turn the key on the relay opens and disconnects the supply
I assume you don’t want to run the heater while your driving, the only downside would be if you needed to run the engine while camping as if it was cold the heater would be offline while the engine was on ??

Yes that would be a good way of resolving it as well. Good suggestion.
I’d not be looking to run the heater at the same time as the engine, and if I tried it would probably go into fault anyway, as the alternator would be kicking in and charging, so the heater would cut out due to the voltage.

 

[VDubnewby666]

Interesting thread @DaveyB - I’m thinking of getting an underslung propane tank and heater fitted by the guys in Dorset so will ask about this to see if they will fess up to you letting them know

 

[DaveyB]

@VDubnewby666
The tank is well worth it.
But in all honesty if you want the HS2000 heater they will not entertain fitting it how I did as it is too much work for them. They only did mine as I had done all the ducting first. All they did was bolt the unit in place, pipe the gas to it and check for leaks.
I had to finish off the recirc ducting when I got home.
They’ll happily fit the heater and then drill a whacking great hole through your floor and put a vent on the end. That was a finish I just did not want.
Happily come round and show you the set up and talk through your options etc.

 

[xpfloyd]

Thanks for posting this @DaveyB . I’ll install with an online switch when I eventually get round to fitting mine

 

[DaveyB]

Thanks for posting this @DaveyB . I’ll install with an online switch when I eventually get round to fitting mine

@xpfloyd
It is only a heater though, it doesn’t have an optional WiFi or Router.

 

[xpfloyd]

Damn autocorrect

 

[Caulkhead]

@VDubnewby666
The tank is well worth it.
But in all honesty if you want the HS2000 heater they will not entertain fitting it how I did as it is too much work for them. They only did mine as I had done all the ducting first. All they did was bolt the unit in place, pipe the gas to it and check for leaks.
I had to finish off the recirc ducting when I got home.
They’ll happily fit the heater and then drill a whacking great hole through your floor and put a vent on the end. That was a finish I just did not want.
Happily come round and show you the set up and talk through your options etc.

So are you effectively saying that as a complete fit of both the underslung tank and heater that they are not compatible to have fitted to a T6 ?....... as it’s something that we have been contemplating........ !

 

[xpfloyd]

So are you effectively saying that as a complete fit of both the underslung tank and heater that they are not compatible to have fitted to a T6 ?....... as it’s something that we have been contemplating........ !

No it’s fine, you just can’t get Propex to install it using the OEM ducting parts like @DaveyB did so that it looks like a factory install. Instead you need to drill 2 holes through your van, one for air in and one for air out. That’s the route I will be taking. If you want the OEM look you would have to install yourself.

Using OEM ducting looks really cool though if you can be bothered with the extra effort

 

[DaveyB]

So are you effectively saying that as a complete fit of both the underslung tank and heater that they are not compatible to have fitted to a T6 ?....... as it’s something that we have been contemplating........ !

@Caulkhead, perfectly summed up by @xpfloyd.

 

[VDubnewby666]

@VDubnewby666
The tank is well worth it.
But in all honesty if you want the HS2000 heater they will not entertain fitting it how I did as it is too much work for them. They only did mine as I had done all the ducting first. All they did was bolt the unit in place, pipe the gas to it and check for leaks.
I had to finish off the recirc ducting when I got home.
They’ll happily fit the heater and then drill a whacking great hole through your floor and put a vent on the end. That was a finish I just did not want.
Happily come round and show you the set up and talk through your options etc.

Thanks @DaveyB Really appreciate the information,action and your kind offer which I will take up before getting the work done

 

[Ads_Essex]

I don't have one of these but couldn't you fit a voltage regulator in line between the fuse and the heater to handle the spike?

Just re-read this topic after seeing someone complaining of a fault on a newer thread..

Regarding Andy’s suggestion, would anyone know if that would / would not work? For a camper build it sounds like a solution to needing to run both the heater and the engine - unless there’s a way to stop the voltage spikes of the alternator..

 

[Dale]

Had both an external tank and Propex heater fitted though shocked as I fillled the tank up (from near empty) at the nearest LPG station yesterday and it cost a shade under £8:50 amd I now have more internal storage space to boot
The heating vent is fitted as requested (due to other issues) and works a treat, very happy.

 

[Caulkhead]

Looks good, I’m booked in for the same on the 2nd November, did you ask fir the vents to be fitted in those positions or is that at their suggestion ?
I understand (I think the problem ) with running the Gas heater if the engine is running, but in what instance would you have the engine running if using the Gas heater as you have the engine heater ?

 

[Dale]

Looks good, I’m booked in for the same on the 2nd November, did you ask fir the vents to be fitted in those positions or is that at their suggestion ?
I understand (I think the problem ) with running the Gas heater if the engine is running, but in what instance would you have the engine running if using the Gas heater as you have the engine heater ?

I asked for the heat outlet vent to be where it is as it was the best position available due to other things, in door step inlet is standard.
I agree re using the heater as I'll only be using it when parked up.

 

[Andrew Wilkinson]

Great thread guys, very helpful as I have exactly this problem with my Propex heater and wondered if someone had come up with a solution. I isolated it at the weekend by removing the fuse and the flashing light issue hasn't yet resurfaced but I guess reading the comments I can expect that it will. Now where do I get a nice sexy isolating switch?