Melted solar cable set up

Having just taken delivery of

DOKIO 200W 18V Foldable Solar Panel Kit Lightweight(5.3KG,73x54CM) Monocrystalline(HIGH Efficiency) with Controller USB Output to Charge 12V Batteries (All Types: Vented AGM Gel) RV Camper Boat​

I am reading this with much interest/fear!:eek:

My leisure battery is in a cubby hole at the rear of the van with the split charger etc mounted in a cupboard above it.
The plan was to leave the cables connected to the battery and Dokio controller which will be fixed to the side of the van.
Obviously I need to introduce a fuse into the live cable (what size would you suggest) before it reaches the controller.
I hoped then to leave the extension cable curled up in the cupboard, maybe now I should leave it disconnected to be sure but having purchased

KUNCAN 25FT Sae to Sae 2 Pin Extension Cable DC Power 16awg Heavy Duty Battery Quick Disconnect/Connect Wire Harness with Sae Connectors with Dust Cap​

This cable has a rubber cap on the end and not only that wont be rolling around and merely routed out of the van and connected to the solar panel as and when we are using it.
Doubtless eventually we will end up having to replace the controller OR go for a roof top fixed system UNTIL then, have we a safe set up would you say?

At a minimum it needs to be fused as close to the battery as possible. The fuse needs to be below the max rating of the cable, although it’s not clear how big that cable is. Assuming the cable is sufficient, fuse at just above the rated current delivery of the charger.

Also, crocodile clips aren’t really meant to be a semi-permanent way of attaching to the battery. You’d be much safer with a reputable brand controller (victron, votronic, etc) hardwired via a fuse into the battery and then use mc4 connectors to hook up the panel when you need it.
 
@hatjoepeg

i would fit a fuse next to the RED battery connection . .

the 200w kit can deliver 11.36A so i would fit a 15A fuse.

1625055622058.png


+++


i would fit one of these inline with the POS connection as close to the battery connection as possible.


1625056711823.png







1625055740040.png

and down rate the fuse to 15A (for the 200w panel version) (7.5A for the 100W version)





1625055911514.png






+++


As for the Panel . .

you could use that SAE extension cable with rubber cover / boot. - that may help.

but still leaves an issue if the boot gets knocked off.

though the fuse above will help.

Me personally - i would swap out the SAE connectors for proper PV MC4 connectors.

i dont like as SAE connectors as they dont lock into place -leaving them vaunrable to being knocked appart and have exposed pins.

i like these MC4 style.




1625056164029.png


.

+++++

The other option is just to upgrade to solar controller for an MPPT unit.

like the Victron as an example.





1625056399622.png



++++


Ideal setup would be:

Fused battery connection to Victron MPPT -> located in back of van.

to

Victron PV MC4 link cable to panel location -> coiled up in cupboard

to

Dokio panel with MC4 connectors fitted instead of the SAE


Then just get out panel and connect to MC4 extension cable.


...


like this . .



1625057556695.png


.
 
Last edited:
@hatjoepeg

i would fit a fuse next to the RED battery connection . .

the 200w kit can deliver 11.36A so i would fit a 15A fuse.

View attachment 121745


+++


i would fit one of these inline with the POS connection as close to the battery connection as possible.


View attachment 121750







View attachment 121746

and down rate the fuse to 15A (for the 200w panel version) (7.5A for the 100W version)





View attachment 121747






+++


As for the Panel . .

you could use that SAE extension cable with rubber cover / boot. - that may help.

but still leaves an issue if the boot gets knocked off.

though the fuse above will help.

Me personally - i would swap out the SAE connectors for proper PV MC4 connectors.

i dont like as SAE connectors as they dont lock into place -leaving them vaunrable to being knocked appart and have exposed pins.

i like these MC4 style.




View attachment 121748


.

+++++

The other option is just to upgrade to solar controller for an MPPT unit.

like the Victron as an example.





View attachment 121749



++++


Ideal setup would be:

Fused battery connection to Victron MPPT -> located in back of van.

to

Victron PV MC4 link cable to panel location -> coiled up in cupboard

to

Dokio panel with MC4 connectors fitted instead of the SAE


Then just get out panel and connect to MC4 extension cable.


...


like this . .



View attachment 121751


.
and that is the beauty of this forum!!
Many thanks @Dellmassive , a complete and simple solution.
Anyone reading this not having paid VIP membership - shame on you!!
 
So the Chinese seller on Amazon has apologised after initially accusing me of wiring this system up incorrectly ! And is offering me £20 for the cables and controller ! And an additional £10 as an apology …. Well so that’s about how much the cables and the controller is truly worth I imagine .
More importantly shall I just let this company carry on selling something this dangerous ?
Or should I take this a stage further and press for them to stop selling it without a fused positive connection or at very least a covered protected solar cable connection and a serious clearly printed warning of the dangers of this setup.
update ….
I’ve done a rough calculation of how much I need to upgrade the controller and cables and asked for them to refund me enough to cover those costs… will post their reply
 
Last edited:
FYI . .

i ment to post this the other day.

have a look at this RENOGY 100w suitcase kit.

it comes with a PWM controller.

1625130394658.png


have a look at the fused RED battery clamp.

1625130418449.png


...



the locking MC4 PV connectors for the panel to controller link.




...



1625130450743.png



...



the only think i dont like is that they have used MC4 connectors for the battery to controller link.

this leads to the possibility of plugging the battery direct to a panel - which is bad.


1625130537820.png


..


so i swapped that out for the standard Anderson battery connector.




1625130681588.png
 
So the Chinese seller on Amazon has apologised after initially accusing me of wiring this system up incorrectly ! And is offering me £20 for the cables and controller ! And an additional £10 as an apology …. Well so that’s about how much the cables and the controller is truly worth I imagine .
More importantly shall I just let this company carry on selling something this dangerous ?
Or should I take this a stage further and press for them to stop selling it without a fused positive connection or at very least a covered protected solar cable connection and a serious clearly printed warning of the dangers of this setup.
update ….
I’ve done a rough calculation of how much I need to upgrade the controller and cables and asked for them to refund me enough to cover those costs… will post their reply
Update .. I got the refund and some pretty grovelling apologies … of course I’m the first customer that has brought the design flaw to their attention ! Yeh right.
 
If it’s not CE approved I wouldn’t buy it, if it is I would treat it with caution.
When I was working offshore cheap electrical devices were increasingly causing fire safety risks. People using a 1K phone with a £4 charger from Ebay.
Sorry to necropost

CE approval for low voltage products is self certified - I.e. not worth anything at all. Anyone can buy a reel of CE stickers and put them on anything. There is no accreditation or register.

The CE mark is required for goods to be sold. Look at the Wikipedia entry for details on known CE scams and remember that only big brand household names can be trusted - everything else must be assumed to need safety checking and caution.

Amazon are the biggest front for this - anyone can sell virtually anything on Amazon and there are no gateway quality checks. All you can do is keep reporting the dodgy crap and keep supporting the known good brands/sellers.
 
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