[Guide] Accelerator Pedal Kickdown Removal

I’m sure someone tested the throttle output ages ago and said that without pushing through it you only got 90% throttle ?
@mmi was it you ?

I could test it if needs be but haven’t got time today
 
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I’m sure someone tested the throttle output ages ago and said that without pushing through it you only got 90% throttle ?
@mmi was it you ?

I could test it if needs be but haven’t got time today
Not sure - but anyways below fresh data readouts what ECU reports:

Foot off​

Accelerator_pedal_A_OFF.jpg

Down to the stopper​

Accelerator_pedal_B_FULL.jpg

Through the kick-down (at floor)​

Accelerator_pedal_C_KICKDOWN.jpg

In the VCDS the values above are found as:
IDE07826​
IDE00086​
IDE01880​
 
That seems to say that 100% throttle opening is achieved before pressing through the stopper, position A and B don't represent throttle opening but pedal positioning ( er carry out an evaluation called accel pedal position where we check w.o.t position but not position A and B to confirm. Again just my 2 psetas :), can't find my 2 cents coin
 
I guess I was wrong then, perhaps tecalling pedal position rather than throttle but good to confirm WOT is achieved before the stop
 
Hi @Drifterman, that's a great find for anyone who likes to drive by "feel" (and not be forced by a machine on how to drive). I havent taken delivery of my T6.1 yet, but will definitely be looking at this when i get it.
There also may be a third "half way" fix for owners who are stuck between maybe doing this mod or not. Here goes my suggestion - by the photos you can see the angle on the spigot is about 60 degrees, which is the cause of the strong pedal resistance. What if the spigot angle was tapered more to say 45 degrees or even more, which would then allow the spigot to more easily enter the resistance block? This way you would still has some pedal resistance, depending on how much you have changed the taper.
This would require going one step further in disassembling the throw arm and coil spring to get good access at filling the spigot face angles.
Might be worth a try for those who aren't sure on the with or without options?

Also, seeing you have already done the tough investigative work, do you think it necessary to remove the electrical contacts cover at all seeing as those 5 screws only fix into the middle section (which comes off via the 8 clips anyway)?
Morning @Hopeful
I did contemplate changing the profile of the spigot to smooth out the travel through the resistance block; in the end, I didn't want any resistance at all though, so it was a no-brainer to simply remove it. Plus, once it's altered, there's no going back if you don't like it/can't get the feel right.

The electrical contact lever arm is an interference fit onto the shaft. When you remove it, it'll just move within the upper section of the quadrant and won't be aligned to the shaft is you then try to refit it without separating them. If it's out of alignment even slightly, it won't go back on and it'd very probably break if you got the force in the wrong place; for the sake of 2 mins to remove the 5 screws and the cover, I definitely wouldn't do it without separating them.

Hope this helps :)
 
@Pauly @Pedro20001
Morning Gents - my extra two groats (caveated by the fact that mine's a manual - may differ in DSG models):
Not sure why the readout uses the pedal position language and terms it does, but I can definitely confirm that WOT is only achieved when the pedal is 'on the floor' (i.e. through he resistance block and the full range travel is achieved by the wiper arm within the accelerator quadrant). If WOT was achieved when you got the stop, there'd be no point in it - the contacts the wiper makes beyond the stop are obviously what provides the signal to DSG to 'kick down', but they also enable the fuel scheduling to reach WOT.
 
Hi, mine a manual too, all 110 hp of it :) and from my understanding it purely is to manually override the speed limiter in case you need to accelerate past it. That's how Toyota have it set up, although as my missus says, I am sometimes wrong ;)
 
When the stop was fitted and no speed limiter set, the revs would 'top-out'. Push past the stop and revs increased - it definitely (in my experience) increases the fuel scheduling

N.B. ....it does the same on the Helicopters I fix.....and they're not a Toyotas either ;-)
 
What we need is a full VCDS record of a DSG and a manual :cool:

The interesting bit to me there (microcontroller background) is not how the position signal is mapped to the throttle demand but that at full mechanical travel the position signal doesn't appear to be full scale.

However it's quite common using ADC (analogue to digital) inputs to stay away from the ends of the scale for a variety of reasons, the ADC itself can get less accurate and the physical resistance tracks can alter near the ends where they have to turn into connections.

I note there are 2 readings which matches the 2 physical wipers in the pictures. Would be interesting to see the track arrangements but from the evidence so far as a critical control I suspect there are 2 independent measurements going on to provide validation. I suspect if they ever significantly differed that would be a fault rather than failing over - you'd generally need 3 measurements to do that as with 2 you know they differ but not which one is correct.
 
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