[Guide] Accelerator Pedal Kickdown Removal

Drifterman

Copter Doctor
VIP Member
T6 Pro
The only thing I didn't like about my T6.1 was the annoying 'kickdown' resistance in the accelerator pedal. There's no good reason to have it fitted on a vehicle with a manual gearbox, so I thought I'd work out what causes the resistance and get rid of it. I didn't want to risk breaking my accelerator quadrant and being stuck without my van, so I bought a 2nd-hand one form eBay so I could do my research and it worked out perfect - I figured it out really quickly. I've done it now, and the van drives so much better; it's got to be one of the best modifications ever....and [if I hadn't bought a spare to practice on] it was free!

Here's how I did it:

Remove the trim under the dash to access to the accelerator Pedal (just pop down the clip to release it (inc the section that wraps around the steering column):
Accelerator Mod 01.jpg

You should now see the accelerator quadrant, with the pedal linkage attached. Using a flat screwdriver, pop the upper ball-joint off to disconnect the linkage:
Accelerator Mod 02.jpg

Now that's out the way, you will be able to access the 3 M10 mounting nuts on the quadrant and the electrical connector - remove them all and the quadrant will slide out off the studs:
Accelerator Mod 03.jpg

This is what you'll be left with:
Accelerator Mod 04.jpg

Now head off to your workbench with the quadrant and secure it so you can split it apart. You can see the 5 Philips screws that hold the electrical contacts cover on and the 8 clips that hold the middle section to the main body:
Accelerator Mod 05.jpg

Remove the 5 screws.
Accelerator Mod 06.jpg

Here's what you'll find inside. This is the wiper arm with the brushes that slide across the carbon contacts as the pedal is moved - don't get them dirty. The arm is well secured onto the square-drive shaft that goes through into the main body of the quadrant - rather than try to pull it off now, wait until the mid-section comes off and it'll draw it up off the shaft with it.
Accelerator Mod 06a.jpg

Next up, carefully prise off the 8 clips that hold the mid-section to the main body of the quadrant. I used a right-angled scriber to get it behind the clips; just taking your time, work around the clips to carefully pop them onto the shoulder of the lock until they're eventually all unlocked (it may be a case of going round them all a couple of times to get them all off together). Once they're all released, slowly raise the mid-section off the main body, keeping it level. As it comes up, it'll slide the wiper arm off the shaft and release it all together:
Accelerator Mod 07a.jpg

Once it's off, this is what you'll be left with in the main body of the quadrant:
Accelerator Mod 07.jpg

At this angle, you can see the spigot and the 'resistance' block that it enters. Pushing in as you press the accelerator, the spigot forces its way through the spring in the block, which is the force we feel - this is the bit we need to get rid of.
Accelerator Mod 08.jpg

It seems like our friends at VW knew it was going to annoy a lot of people and they made it easy for us to remove. The resistance block is installed by slotting into 2 guides and it literally just slides out. No tools or force required, just pick it out with your fingers:
Accelerator Mod 09.jpg

Now it's out, you can see why it needs such a force to overcome when you press the accelerator - the angle on the spigot is about 60 degrees; with very little taper on it, it's always going to need a fair bit of force to push through the springs in the block. In this photo, you can also see the slots the block slips in to:
Accelerator Mod 10.jpg

Lastly, here's the block itself:
Accelerator Mod 011.jpg

Putting the quadrant back together is just the same in reverse. It took me less than 6 minutes to get it apart and back together. If you add 10 mins for removal from the van and another 10 to refit, that's a mod that'll take you less that 30 mins. It's honestly one of the simplest and best mods you can do; having taken the van for a drive, I can honestly say it's a game changer and makes it drive so much better. Even though it cost me the price of a spare part to experiment on, it's the best £30 I've spent.

If anybody wants to try it out and has any questions, feel free to ask... :)

Accelerator Mod 06a.jpg

Accelerator Mod 09.jpg
 
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OK, OK this sounds good - I wonder if the same/similar process works on other VAG vehicles...?

(Scurries off to have a look at various VAG cars in the carpark....!)
 
Don't understand the point of these on a manual. :confused:

Are VW penny-pinching (same components for manual & DSG), was it a mistake during build or did supply-chain issues result in DSG versions being fitted to manuals? Answers on a postcard. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
Don't understand the point of these on a manual.
I can't see the point of them on a DSG tbh - passenger comfort and feathering the pedal isn't easily achieved with a lump in the accelerator in my experience, DSG or man...

(Unless someone can point to a logical something I've missed!)
 
I can't see the point of them on a DSG tbh - passenger comfort and feathering the pedal isn't easily achieved with a lump in the accelerator in my experience, DSG or man...

(Unless someone can point to a logical something I've missed!)
In a powerful auto it's useful for avoiding aggressive kick-down inadvertently, but not sure that translates to a DSG Transporter.
 
Hi Copter Doctor, I've got a 2022 DSG T6.1 and the restrictor you've removed is really annoying. It sounds like your solution would be perfect for me. Do you think removing the block would affect the kick-down function on my bus?

TIA

Statters42
 
Welcome to the forum @Statters42, if you want to tag another member use the @ symbol and the member user name (not the members title) so @Drifterman in this case.

This post is mostly about removing the resistance block given it appears the VW are fitting the same part to auto and manual vehicles, and there is little point to it in manual.

In an auto box there is a point to it being there, it's so you need a deliberate effort to trigger a kickdown and get the box to downshift to overtake (rather than putting the box in manual and doing it yourself)

Without the resistance you will have the box going into kickdown with no real feel as to when that will happen which might cause some surprises when trying to accelerate.

The kickdown will continue to work at the same point of travel regardless of if the physical resistance wedge is there or not. Whether that improves drivability or becomes a liability is open to question.

Also note the comment from @TeeCeeJay as I've used the speed limiter on my MY21 T6.1 DSG a few times and it would be much harder to use without the physical stop as you'd just move into the zone that the limiter was disabled by full pedal travel with no physical feedback.

Having said that it looks just as easy to put the block back, but I'd keep it in a safe place just in case or if you later sell the van.
 
Welcome to the forum @Statters42, if you want to tag another member use the @ symbol and the member user name (not the members title) so @Drifterman in this case.

This post is mostly about removing the resistance block given it appears the VW are fitting the same part to auto and manual vehicles, and there is little point to it in manual.

In an auto box there is a point to it being there, it's so you need a deliberate effort to trigger a kickdown and get the box to downshift to overtake (rather than putting the box in manual and doing it yourself)

Without the resistance you will have the box going into kickdown with no real feel as to when that will happen which might cause some surprises when trying to accelerate.

The kickdown will continue to work at the same point of travel regardless of if the physical resistance wedge is there or not. Whether that improves drivability or becomes a liability is open to question.

Also note the comment from @TeeCeeJay as I've used the speed limiter on my MY21 T6.1 DSG a few times and it would be much harder to use without the physical stop as you'd just move into the zone that the limiter was disabled by full pedal travel with no physical feedback.

Having said that it looks just as easy to put the block back, but I'd keep it in a safe place just in case or if you later sell the van.
Thanks for your reply and the correction - I'm sure you can tell I'm a bit new to this!. Hope this is a better effort!

I thought the kick-down resistance might be in addition to the resistance block, i.e. an additional resistance for the kick down. When overtaking the van accelerates strongly at low revs but when you get to higher revs - about 3500 it all tails off and feels like it's not got Wide Open Throttle. Worse still if you press down through the resistance to get WOT at this revs it changes down putting the revs at near redline levels and therefore poor acceleration. It then changes to a higher gear and feels like it doesn't really know what it's doing. I've tried putting it in manual and it is better - in fact when overtaking this is my preferred method as I can match the gear to the revs better but it still doesn't seem to use WOT so it feels like the performance is being compromised. Thanks again for your input and if you have any ideas I'd greatly appreciate them.
 
Good morning @Statters42

Some good points there from @roadtripper

FWIW, here's my thoughts: I'll be honest (and given my van is manual), I'm not sure what the driving experience would really be like if you take the block out on a DSG model. All I would say is that it takes very little time to do it and it's completely reversible...... so why not give it a go? If you try and and you don't like it, just put it back in...

As an aside, are you aware you can get your DSG re-mapped? We all know the fuel map is shocking, but I've heard lots great things about DSG gearboxes that have been re-mapped as well....might just be the thing you need to make the drive better if taking the pedal block out doesn't work for you? Just a thought....
 
Good morning @Statters42

Some good points there from @roadtripper

FWIW, here's my thoughts: I'll be honest (and given my van is manual), I'm not sure what the driving experience would really be like if you take the block out on a DSG model. All I would say is that it takes very little time to do it and it's completely reversible...... so why not give it a go? If you try and and you don't like it, just put it back in...

As an aside, are you aware you can get your DSG re-mapped? We all know the fuel map is shocking, but I've heard lots great things about DSG gearboxes that have been re-mapped as well....might just be the thing you need to make the drive better if taking the pedal block out doesn't work for you? Just a thought....
Thanks @Drifterman for your points. As you say the only real way to tell is to try it and reverse it if it doesn't work out right. I've looked into the remapping of DSG but whilst there are definitely some issues with the stock map, I think that is a separate can of worms. I'll post here what happens as the van is in with my local garage having a couple of things done at the moment. Once again thanks for your input.
 
Thanks @Drifterman for your points. As you say the only real way to tell is to try it and reverse it if it doesn't work out right. I've looked into the remapping of DSG but whilst there are definitely some issues with the stock map, I think that is a separate can of worms. I'll post here what happens as the van is in with my local garage having a couple of things done at the moment. Once again thanks for your input.
Hi @Drifterman. Was just wondering on the off chance whether you still had your secondhand quadrant and if so whether you might part with it? It would enable me to swap quickly should the van be difficult to drive as previously discussed. Thanks gain for your input.
 
Hi @Drifterman. Was just wondering on the off chance whether you still had your secondhand quadrant and if so whether you might part with it? It would enable me to swap quickly should the van be difficult to drive as previously discussed. Thanks gain for your input.
I think you could find the DSG throttle control to be different as I don't think the block being removed will have any effect on kickdown of a DSG, my (slightly) educated guess is that the block is designed as a fuel saving feature. The kick down switch will likely be an additional part to what's inside a manual version.
 
AFAIK the T6.1 is a wholly electronic throttle so won't need a separate kick down switch, kick down will just be mapped into the area of the resistance track that corresponds with where the kick down resistance block is. It's effectively just a volume control that gets harder to turn at the end because of the resistance block.

All I would expect to happen on a 6.1 DSG is that you will no longer feel additional resistance on the full travel of the throttle pedal. Everything else will stay the same.
 
Based solely on feedback provided on this forum, I tend to think that the DSG remap is the way to go.
 
Hi @Drifterman. Was just wondering on the off chance whether you still had your secondhand quadrant and if so whether you might part with it? It would enable me to swap quickly should the van be difficult to drive as previously discussed. Thanks gain for your input.
Hi @Statters42
Yes, I’ve still got the other quadrant. PM me and we’ll sort out getting it over to you
 
Hi @Drifterman, that's a great find for anyone who likes to drive by "feel" (and not be forced by a machine on how to drive). I havent taken delivery of my T6.1 yet, but will definitely be looking at this when i get it.
There also may be a third "half way" fix for owners who are stuck between maybe doing this mod or not. Here goes my suggestion - by the photos you can see the angle on the spigot is about 60 degrees, which is the cause of the strong pedal resistance. What if the spigot angle was tapered more to say 45 degrees or even more, which would then allow the spigot to more easily enter the resistance block? This way you would still has some pedal resistance, depending on how much you have changed the taper.
This would require going one step further in disassembling the throw arm and coil spring to get good access at filling the spigot face angles.
Might be worth a try for those who aren't sure on the with or without options?

Also, seeing you have already done the tough investigative work, do you think it necessary to remove the electrical contacts cover at all seeing as those 5 screws only fix into the middle section (which comes off via the 8 clips anyway)?
 
Hi all, I've been following this thread and just wanted to add my 2 cents ( feel free to scroll past if you disagree :)). Based on how our systems work which is identical at Toyota, the switch, especially on a manual transmission is an override for the speed limiter so you can accelerate past your set limit in case you need to. Wide open throttle is achieved just before depressing the switch so removal doesn't give any extra power. Just my take on this based on my experience :thumbsup:
 
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