Too Many OBDii Faults For My Liking!
Sorry to ad another swerve ball to the mix, just read this document here https://www.ablemail.co.uk/sites/default/files/products/ablemailbatterychargerselectionguide.pdf which mentions a T5 4Motion that has Stop/Start, but NOT Regenerative braking...
I think you need to contact VW and see if they can give you a definitive requirement for the battery for your van. It would seem that you are caught in that no-mans land between EU5/EU6 and everything else.
I think you need to contact VW and see if they can give you a definitive requirement for the battery for your van. It would seem that you are caught in that no-mans land between EU5/EU6 and everything else.
I can't see how this would go away by changing battery or any related coding. The description suggests the alternator is not communicating with ECU.
I think the following are proof of disconnect (compared with data exctracted from a MY2013 Amarok having the same battery management as yours SW:7H0-907-534 HW:7H0-937-090:
14-2 Dynamic Field Signal - missing real time value
14-3 Exciter current - missing real time value
26-1 Generator current - missing real time value
26-2 Generator current reserve - missing real time value
18-1 Battery voltage - deviates significantly of "commanded" value at 14-1 Generator voltage (spec)
14-3 Exciter current - missing real time value
26-1 Generator current - missing real time value
26-2 Generator current reserve - missing real time value
18-1 Battery voltage - deviates significantly of "commanded" value at 14-1 Generator voltage (spec)
That is 15.0V vs 14.080V - typically the voltage at battery is 0.3..0.1V below the commanded. My guess is that now the alternator outputs just a "safe" voltage.
No need to apologise any help much appreciated, I'll have a read of the link.
Thanks mmi
I'm assuming your guess is the Automator is on it's way out?!? I haven't had (so far) any problems with the battery going flat.
EDIT 8.37pm: I have just lifted the battery to get an exact measurement of the battery tray and the negative terminal was only finger tight. Could this have been enough to cause this fault?
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No, I don't think so unless it has done 200 thousand miles. The communication wire from alternator is presumably a thin, white/yellow, wire - thus a bit vulnerable. I would check that. IMO the first step is to resolve this fault.
And, I don't expect to see any battery problems even the fault on as the alternator just keeps charging at "safe" level.
Sounds "good"
-- definitely a candidate for at least the other faults, the glow plug faults... Perhaps time to clear the faults and see what comes back.
I've read the pdf now but I'm struggling to see why it makes a difference to my battery choice unless I'm missing something.
Regenerative braking is the part that puts significant voltages and currents into the battery whenever it is in effect.
If the van is only stopping and restarting, all you are looking for is a battery with a good capacity, but it has no need to be of a type that is able to cope with the voltage spikes of the regeneration, it will be charged at a normal rate (ie less than 14.6v) whenever the alternator is turned on.
If the van is only stopping and restarting, all you are looking for is a battery with a good capacity, but it has no need to be of a type that is able to cope with the voltage spikes of the regeneration, it will be charged at a normal rate (ie less than 14.6v) whenever the alternator is turned on.
Inspite of what has been said since discussing battery adaption I think I will just go with a 019 type and take the risk that associated issues will be solved by the replacement and coding.
Ah but coding! Tayna today told me that they could sell me a Bosch (like yours) as the 019 ENDUROLINE AGM START STOP CAR BATTERY 95AH doesn't come with BEM! I have watched the video in your post mentioned above and must say it is still difficult to know how you do code a battery if you don't have this.
Bosch batteries are made by Varta, so use their code, the type and capacity you know from the battery label (AGM/EFB/Wet and 70Ah/90Ah/100Ah) and the serial number you can just make up.
The reason there is space for a serial number, is so that if you were to swap out like for like (manufacturer, type and capacity) the serial number would be different, so the ECU knows the battery has been changed and can reset its adaptions to start afresh with the new battery.
What to use if you installed a Yuasa battery for example, I don't know, you'd have to do some research to see if any of the available options had similar characteristics and use that.
The reason there is space for a serial number, is so that if you were to swap out like for like (manufacturer, type and capacity) the serial number would be different, so the ECU knows the battery has been changed and can reset its adaptions to start afresh with the new battery.
What to use if you installed a Yuasa battery for example, I don't know, you'd have to do some research to see if any of the available options had similar characteristics and use that.
Thanks Grim Reaper
Unfortunately I wasn't intending to spend as much as the Bosch one is at the moment, hence asking about the Enduroline, as they couldn't/wouldn't offer any concessions one the Bosch.
I understand what you ares saying about the likes of Yuasa but surely this isn't the case with all batteries other than those made by Johnson Controls (now Clarios), unless they own the BEM code idea? Surely people all over the country with stop start vehicles aren't having to do their own research to replace their battery!
Unfortunately I wasn't intending to spend as much as the Bosch one is at the moment, hence asking about the Enduroline, as they couldn't/wouldn't offer any concessions one the Bosch.
I understand what you ares saying about the likes of Yuasa but surely this isn't the case with all batteries other than those made by Johnson Controls (now Clarios), unless they own the BEM code idea? Surely people all over the country with stop start vehicles aren't having to do their own research to replace their battery!
What about the Exide 95Ah one at £125/£135 delivered? There's a code for Exide in the van, you might get some discount with SMED33 code on their website as opposed to ebay site but you have to go through to checkout to enter it so I've not tried it to see if it works.
Not so much that but from what info I can find, it would seem VW have done a deal with all those listed and determined their battery characteristics so that the charging system can be optimised for each right from the start.
If you choose install a battery from a different manufacturer from those already in the system, you would need to pick one from the list that has closest characteristics to the battery you are going to fit, so the ecu gives the best charging profile or knows how it can use the available capacity to its maximum.
One thing I’ve noticed about the Enduroline and Powerline batteries sold by Tayna, is how low their CCA rating is in relation to all the others, I would say they are using a different battery chemistry or manufacturing process to the rest, that results in them not being able to push out as much current under load.
If you could find a battery from the available manufacturers in the list in the ecu, with the same low CCA and the same Ah, then it would be the obvious choice of setting to use if you installed one of Tayna’s offerings, there must only be a few battery manufacturers around the world, and like I found that Varta make batteries for Bosch, if you can find the people that make the Enduroline and Powerline ones for Tayna, it might be one of the manufacturers in the list.
If you choose install a battery from a different manufacturer from those already in the system, you would need to pick one from the list that has closest characteristics to the battery you are going to fit, so the ecu gives the best charging profile or knows how it can use the available capacity to its maximum.
One thing I’ve noticed about the Enduroline and Powerline batteries sold by Tayna, is how low their CCA rating is in relation to all the others, I would say they are using a different battery chemistry or manufacturing process to the rest, that results in them not being able to push out as much current under load.
If you could find a battery from the available manufacturers in the list in the ecu, with the same low CCA and the same Ah, then it would be the obvious choice of setting to use if you installed one of Tayna’s offerings, there must only be a few battery manufacturers around the world, and like I found that Varta make batteries for Bosch, if you can find the people that make the Enduroline and Powerline ones for Tayna, it might be one of the manufacturers in the list.
See if there's anyone near you with VCDS to program it in (if your Autel won't do it)
Grim Reaper,
Do you think it will be exactly the same for me as per your post #15 at the link below, in the sense that a Varta code should work if I don't have one on the battery?
Upgrading Starter Battery
Do you think it will be exactly the same for me as per your post #15 at the link below, in the sense that a Varta code should work if I don't have one on the battery?
Upgrading Starter Battery
Yes, assuming you can recode module 61 from EFB to AGM, your code at the moment is 030B7A73 and it needs to read 030B1A73.
From your screenshots you appear to be able to change the adaptations for Rated Battery Capacity, Manufacturer and Serial Number.
From your screenshots you appear to be able to change the adaptations for Rated Battery Capacity, Manufacturer and Serial Number.
will let you know how I get on.Similar threads
