I could send you my own VCDS but I would need some sort of security as it is the unlimited VIN £570 pro version.
T6 OEM LED-headlight retrofit
hello, @Flyingspanner that is very kind of you. i'll see and of course i would give you a security no problems.
Just taken it for a drive.. redid the 55 basic setting (all that i can do which doesnt seem much tbh), but this time acknowledged it afterwards. Redid a scan and I have no faults. Nothing. The lights do the whole moving and setting themselves when I turn the ignition on.
The only thing is that my drl's and sidelights.. there is still no difference.
Could this still be the modules? As the module that seems to be problematic is the drl & sidelight?
one thing having just re-read things:
@Robert you said this:
"When switch is at 0 (DRLs ON) and engine is running your voltages at PIN 12 and PIN 10 should be approximately 14.7 V.
When switch is at (side lights ON) and engine is running your voltage at PIN 10 should be approximately 14.7 V and PIN 12 should be like that
https://www.t6forum.com/attachments/20180214_222927-1-jpg.19044/
which should give a reading of approximately 11 V on any ordinary volt meter.
Can you compare against your findings and advise?"
and i have:
engine on:
position 0
pin 10 14.7 14.7
pin 12 14.7 14.6
side light
pin 10 14.6 14.6
pin 12 14.6 14.6
isnt sth wrong there? im not getting the pin 10 14.7v and pin 12 about 11v?
this is with the lights obvs unplugged so that cuts the modules out of the equation no? is my bcm not providing the correct voltages then? or have i missed sth?
Just taken it for a drive.. redid the 55 basic setting (all that i can do which doesnt seem much tbh), but this time acknowledged it afterwards. Redid a scan and I have no faults. Nothing. The lights do the whole moving and setting themselves when I turn the ignition on.
The only thing is that my drl's and sidelights.. there is still no difference.
Could this still be the modules? As the module that seems to be problematic is the drl & sidelight?
one thing having just re-read things:
@Robert you said this:
"When switch is at 0 (DRLs ON) and engine is running your voltages at PIN 12 and PIN 10 should be approximately 14.7 V.
When switch is at (side lights ON) and engine is running your voltage at PIN 10 should be approximately 14.7 V and PIN 12 should be like that
https://www.t6forum.com/attachments/20180214_222927-1-jpg.19044/
which should give a reading of approximately 11 V on any ordinary volt meter.
Can you compare against your findings and advise?"
and i have:
engine on:
position 0
pin 10 14.7 14.7
pin 12 14.7 14.6
side light
pin 10 14.6 14.6
pin 12 14.6 14.6
isnt sth wrong there? im not getting the pin 10 14.7v and pin 12 about 11v?
this is with the lights obvs unplugged so that cuts the modules out of the equation no? is my bcm not providing the correct voltages then? or have i missed sth?
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With these vehicles,I always do voltage readings with the load connected as the BCM sends out a fishing voltage and can disable the circuit. Use a very small pin and backprobe the terminal. Don’t pierce the wires as this encourages moisture to enter the cable and is unnecessary (some seal the wire with liquid tape if they are in a rush).
Also what is your BCM (J519) part number?
Look closely at the thread around Robert’s post to see if you can spot any anomalies to your install.
I can’t check on my van as I have removed it all.
Remind me if you also fitted rear LED lights too?
Could you have something still connected at the headlight plug which is feeding the 14v when it shouldn’t, even though you swapped at the BCM plug? The PWM wires out of the BCM (old location prior to moving to 5/6) have they been disconnected from the LED lights completely, or are they still connected in some way to the 14 pin plug?
Also what is your BCM (J519) part number?
Look closely at the thread around Robert’s post to see if you can spot any anomalies to your install.
I can’t check on my van as I have removed it all.
Remind me if you also fitted rear LED lights too?
Could you have something still connected at the headlight plug which is feeding the 14v when it shouldn’t, even though you swapped at the BCM plug? The PWM wires out of the BCM (old location prior to moving to 5/6) have they been disconnected from the LED lights completely, or are they still connected in some way to the 14 pin plug?
I Wonder???
When I fitted my rear LED lights, I had a problem where the rear sidelights would dim (opposite to your problem I know) as I needed to isolate the rear lights from the front.
It could be your rear lights are giving full voltage overriding the dimming function the front.
If this is the case, you need to isolate them, I will have a look at a diagram later.
I did post this at the time and you may want to see if you can find that section in the post.
When I fitted my rear LED lights, I had a problem where the rear sidelights would dim (opposite to your problem I know) as I needed to isolate the rear lights from the front.
It could be your rear lights are giving full voltage overriding the dimming function the front.
If this is the case, you need to isolate them, I will have a look at a diagram later.
I did post this at the time and you may want to see if you can find that section in the post.
Hi there,
not fitted rear leds, nope - not touched the rears.
BCM is 7E0937090
not quite sure about this: "The PWM wires out of the BCM (old location prior to moving to 5/6) have they been disconnected from the LED lights completely, or are they still connected in some way to the 14 pin plug?"
My bcm was empty at 5 & 6 before? For me these wires were the new ones from 14 pin plug pins 10 rhs and lhs?
I did plug & play looms where i took pins 5 6 7 9 11 12 from the 10pin and had new wires 1 2 3 4 (to the RCM) 10 and 14 to the BCM.
this was my cabling:
if i use a long pin, i'll go through the seals in the 14pin plug then to get the values? this should seal up again once the pin is removed it being silicone..
For info, my parking lights do the dimming function perfectly.
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The aim is to go down between the seal and pvc wire insulation and make contact with the terminal pin. Don’t put a hole in the seal.
I have never seen a levelling system not take the headlights down and up when you key on
I have used brand new control modules and second hand ones in the past and they have always taken the lights down and up and self levelled, I always assumed this was a base function of the control unit/firmware and the coding only tweaked or optimised this operation
Any units without basic calibration will show a fault for a couple weeks then clear themselves (I assume it just takes learned values from driving ?)
I would question if you unit/system is actually working ?
I have used brand new control modules and second hand ones in the past and they have always taken the lights down and up and self levelled, I always assumed this was a base function of the control unit/firmware and the coding only tweaked or optimised this operation
Any units without basic calibration will show a fault for a couple weeks then clear themselves (I assume it just takes learned values from driving ?)
I would question if you unit/system is actually working ?
Ah ok, well it seems to function now that.
The "only" thing that i am seemingly having issues with is the DRLs and sidelights having the same brightness..
I'll see if i can do some more measures of volatges using pin 7 and 10/12.. but with the plugs connected this time.
I can check once again the BCM and triple check that the pins are correctly there but other than that im a bit at a loss as to why i have a different voltage..!
This self test of LED light range control system is called "Reference run" and 55 (Headlights Range module) allows for some configuration of this feature via its own adaptations.
There is a choice of 2 settings.
First one triggers test when engine is started
and the second one when ignition is switched on.
EDlT:
Also when faults in the module are being cleared and there is no actually malfunction of this system, the test is being triggered.
The idea of running basic setting is so you adjust the beam in the centre of its range to avoid the possibility of it running out of movement.
Whenever it is in, or placed in, or left in basic setting it won’t do the range party trick with key on in my experience. Some cars have left the factory with the headlights pointing just in front of the car due to an oversight during production recently. No range movement during key on at all with (55 not calibrated correctly) event logged in the memory.
Glad you got it sorted!
Check your fine adjustment unless you used a previously enjoyed set of light units:
Whenever it is in, or placed in, or left in basic setting it won’t do the range party trick with key on in my experience. Some cars have left the factory with the headlights pointing just in front of the car due to an oversight during production recently. No range movement during key on at all with (55 not calibrated correctly) event logged in the memory.
Glad you got it sorted!
Check your fine adjustment unless you used a previously enjoyed set of light units:
- Put the van 5 meters from a white wall at night and turn the lights on( engine running if you still have a Moll battery fitted ).
- Turn on main beam. It should sit on the same horizontal line as dipped beam and the centre of the main beam semi circle should be on the vertical centre line of the dipped beam.
- You can adjust it with two small adjusters on the headlight housing, not the adjusters for the main light setting, think they are 5.5 mm or similar. I have yet to see a new headlight correct new out of the box.
- Now back away to 10 meters and you should see a perfect overlap when turning on main beam
@scotia
Well done, you won’t be disappointed! I am writing a manual with measurements and instructions with terminal pins rather than repair wires to keep costs right down.
As you know I removed my LED lights, wiring and sensors which allows me to get everything photographed and measured from a known working configuration.
Lots of time and effort required to do it properly though, something I have little of at the mo.
Keep in touch, next time I’m skiing in Les Portes du Soleil, if we ever get the virus under control, oh and the Russians haven’t kicked off the next conflict , I may pop over the border for a meet up.
I read the Swiss and Sweden have enough bunkers for more than every member of their population, the UK have 3% of the population covered. Nice
Well done, you won’t be disappointed! I am writing a manual with measurements and instructions with terminal pins rather than repair wires to keep costs right down.
As you know I removed my LED lights, wiring and sensors which allows me to get everything photographed and measured from a known working configuration.
Lots of time and effort required to do it properly though, something I have little of at the mo.
Keep in touch, next time I’m skiing in Les Portes du Soleil, if we ever get the virus under control, oh and the Russians haven’t kicked off the next conflict , I may pop over the border for a meet up.
I read the Swiss and Sweden have enough bunkers for more than every member of their population, the UK have 3% of the population covered. Nice
LUNGU RAZVAN
New Member
Hi.I can install the headlights on the car without Headlights Range modules and Auto-leveling?
.LUNGU RAZVAN
New Member
I mounted the wires according to the ERWIN scheme. The headlights work perfectly but sometimes turn off the short beam for 1 second. I attached my coding. Where am I wrong?
LUNGU RAZVAN
New Member
THANK YOU ROBERT. Now it works perfect
Retrofit led headlights , led taillights and ACC
Retrofit led headlights , led taillights and ACC
Should be good to go with that, even has a coding dongle so you don’t need to faff about. Not the same sensors as mine, factory rear sensor has a stone guard fitted.
