Stop/start Doing Your Head In? Disabling It - How We Done It -
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
I just fitted this today , 2018 van , works perfectly, plug and play . Thanks for the linkHere you go.
Car Automatic Stop Start Engine System Control For VW T-cross T6.1 Skoda fabia | eBay UK
For VW T-cross T6.1 Skoda fabia. 3 modes Introduction Turn off the start and stop first, wait for more than three seconds. Function: Close the auto stop start engine. Find the original car plug switch interface, and the original car start and stop switch button can be transferred.www.ebay.co.uk
Just plugged in and it worked. Not had to program it.
One of the better things I have purchased for my van. I always meant to get one for my last car and never got a round tuit.I just fitted this today , 2018 van , works perfectly, plug and play . Thanks for the link
After trawling pages of info, I'm not sure what will work on my van!
T6.1 2020 so NOT the Bosch ECU
It appears it can be done in VCDS by tweaking the adaptation channels for voltage and temperature, is this the case for my van, are there other adaptations, presumably there isn't simply a disable adaptation?
I've just replaced the battery, and the start-stop is kicking in constantly, which I find dangerous at times - The T6.1 DSG has a significant lag between hitting the throttle, and the van moving, then add to this a sudden cutting out of the engine just as I'm pulling out of a junction, and a dangerous delay occurs. The traffic round here can be heavy, so you really need to know exactly when the van will move to filter into a gap.
T6.1 2020 so NOT the Bosch ECU
It appears it can be done in VCDS by tweaking the adaptation channels for voltage and temperature, is this the case for my van, are there other adaptations, presumably there isn't simply a disable adaptation?
I've just replaced the battery, and the start-stop is kicking in constantly, which I find dangerous at times - The T6.1 DSG has a significant lag between hitting the throttle, and the van moving, then add to this a sudden cutting out of the engine just as I'm pulling out of a junction, and a dangerous delay occurs. The traffic round here can be heavy, so you really need to know exactly when the van will move to filter into a gap.
As a short term ‘fix’ try coming up to a stop gently - as if you are going to inch forward rather than stop.
My T5.1 isn’t blessed with stop start but my Golf (of the same year) is. That’s a DSG and I find slowing to a gentle stop, like a chauffeur, means the stop/start doesn’t kick in. If I am harder on the brakes and stop more decisively it does. So when my son drives stop/start always kicks in as he hasn’t mastered the drive like there is a child in the back that’s looking for any excuse to spill something!
In the eleven years of owning the golf (since new) I’ve never felt stop/start to be dangerous and the car is still on the original battery, altenator, starter etc etc, but there are times/certain junctions where I feel I prefer the above technique rather than having it shut the car off. I rarely use the on/off button as there are times I want it turning off - saves me fuel and I like peace and quiet wherever I can get it.
I took a punt and opted for this module from ali express for £15.
Fitted it a few weeks back. So far zero issues. Been checking with obdeleven and vctool to see if there are any issues with it that are not showing. Nothing reports back.
It was worth the £15. If it was junk would have punted it in the bin and not been overly bothered because of the price.
Van, 2022 t6.1
Fitted it a few weeks back. So far zero issues. Been checking with obdeleven and vctool to see if there are any issues with it that are not showing. Nothing reports back.
It was worth the £15. If it was junk would have punted it in the bin and not been overly bothered because of the price.
Van, 2022 t6.1
I'm aware of the light braking technique, unfortunately it's hilly round here, and you need to be hard on the brakes to stop the van rolling.
The T6.1 has a very well documented lag in drive take-up, of which loads have had remaps to get rid of it. No idea why VW thought a lag was a good idea? When I command the van to move, I want it to actually move!
In 1 second, a car at 30mph has travelled 14 metres, and at 60mph 28 metres, so a 1 second lag is very significant when pulling into traffic.
OK, as you are in a T6.1 then try this technique. When you come to a complete stop, your engine will stop. Then if you release the brake pedal, not completely, but almost, the van will start. you can still hold it on the brakes, then set off. Its a matter of learning the DSG box.
A £15 lead from eBay or other supplier will fix it without anything else. Plug and play. Don’t recall when fitted mine (it’s in this thread I think) and zero issues with it.
Is it easy to check this regularly for signs of excess heat?
We have had a couple of items with cheap Chinese electrical equipment start showing signs of heat stress with one actually releasing smoke! (in the house, not the van). The insides of the power adapter had totally melted - just glad we spotted it before it became a bigger issue.
I don’t trust these sites for electrical items for this reason and anything the brother in law gifts us (he loves these sites and the two problem items both came from this route) now just goes straight to Currys for recycling.
Nothing to note regarding 'smoking'. It's £15. Better than potentially damaging your starter motor or battery.
Have a look here.
I fitted this nearly 4 years ago and still working ok.
I’ve fitted a stop start cancelling cable that I bought from aliexpress here are some pictures that @Skyliner33 asked for.
Just got to test it next time I take the van out.
John
Just got to test it next time I take the van out.
John
I did some experiments with VCDS today, and looked at the adaptation channels -
Stop/start deactivation - Mode not in operation.
Minimum ambient temperature for stop/start - ERROR channel not available.
Maximum ambient temperature for stop/start - ERROR channel not available.
Minimum voltage for stop/start - This one is active, and shows the minimum cranking battery voltage at which stop/start will work. It's factory setting is 7.6V, so I set it to 12V as recommended, it accepted the value, but the stop/start still worked. I tried setting it to a higher value, but it will not accept anything above 12V.
So there must be another hidden parameter at play, probably a time element, i.e. the voltage must drop below the set value for more than a set time before it disables the stop/start. As my battery is new, and upgraded from 70Ah to 95Ah, the van starts instantly, so the cranking voltage drop below 12V set point, would have only been for 1/4 -1/2 a second.
It looks like VCDS can't do this any more, unless anyone has any other methods? Thanks for the input and other workarounds, I think the way forward if VCDS doesn't work is actually press the damned button every start up, then eventually get a cable / widget for the switch.
Stop/start deactivation - Mode not in operation.
Minimum ambient temperature for stop/start - ERROR channel not available.
Maximum ambient temperature for stop/start - ERROR channel not available.
Minimum voltage for stop/start - This one is active, and shows the minimum cranking battery voltage at which stop/start will work. It's factory setting is 7.6V, so I set it to 12V as recommended, it accepted the value, but the stop/start still worked. I tried setting it to a higher value, but it will not accept anything above 12V.
So there must be another hidden parameter at play, probably a time element, i.e. the voltage must drop below the set value for more than a set time before it disables the stop/start. As my battery is new, and upgraded from 70Ah to 95Ah, the van starts instantly, so the cranking voltage drop below 12V set point, would have only been for 1/4 -1/2 a second.
It looks like VCDS can't do this any more, unless anyone has any other methods? Thanks for the input and other workarounds, I think the way forward if VCDS doesn't work is actually press the damned button every start up, then eventually get a cable / widget for the switch.
I’m not suggesting waiting until it smokes but does it feel hot/warm to touch would be my concern.
As for starter motors I don’t see the issue if a Golf version can last over a decade and over 125k miles with stop/start enabled. Are Transporters really that much weaker?
Im glad I know to that which you are referring!
Im pleased to report mine didnt feel at all warm after driving round with it flopped oit for a few days to ensure it was doing its job.
You can attach a cheap Chinese thermometer?!
Whether you buy from a UK dealer or direct from Asia you’re pretty much getting the same item but at a different price.
I briefly worked at a leading UK temperature and pressure control company in 1994, shocking high production failure, re-worked parts and rock bottom pay / morale.
The Chinese overtook us some time ago.
All I know is when BigClive does a tear down of Temu (and the like) products there are some shockers in there. Literally.
I have no problem with buying Chinese but, there are grades there too. Some of their stuff is pretty amazing design, quality and value but some of the cheaper stuff is a waste of resources at best and a danger at worst.
Take e-bikes. The likes of Trek, Canyon etc last a long time and don’t seem to set fire to your house when charging. Much of the electrics probably comes out of China although overseen by Bosch or whoever.
Meanwhile the cheapo ones on Amazon don’t last long at all and seem to come with other risks.
As with everything in life - it’s a scale.
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Have any of you ever had an issue with these products causing other light issues? I am circa £2k in to a random light issue and cannot figure out why its happening. Basically my full beam on the passenger (left) is staying on. Sorry to those who have seen me bang on about this on other threads.
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