Renogy DCC50S + 100Ah Smart Lithium Install

I would look at how you’re intending to charge the battery, the 50s charges equally 25 for charger and 25 for solar. I assume the 30s is 15/15?
if you are planning solar I would go 50s as finding a panel with <25 voc will be difficult.
My opinion only from my limited knowledge, I’m sure someone else will chip in…
Thanks Andymc. So if there is no solar do I assume then the charge would be 30/50a ? It is £70 difference in price between both models and trying to weigh up is it worth it ?
 
That’s correct max 30/50a charge from either or 50/50 both. The 30s wasn’t available when I got mine but on reflection I would still go 50s as it future proofs the system to some extent. I can always add solar if I go off grid.
 
That’s correct max 30/50a charge from either or 50/50 both. The 30s wasn’t available when I got mine but on reflection I would still go 50s as it future proofs the system to some extent. I can always add solar if I go off grid.
thanks Andymc. Its a minefield out there and I just want to look at a solution that has some upgrade options . Especially when I read of the CTEK products and their limited solar panel capability. I am intending using a electrical co to install the system and need to design my own system rather than take a solution because that is what they offer. In my opnion, Renogy is not widely installed or adopted by the convertors so far but suit my needs.
 
There are a few people on here with Renogy gear, Dellmassive has done loads of testing on the different options. Also I liked the Renogy kit and the ease of install.
Where are you based?
 
Morning All, please can anyone help me, attached is a picture of my wiring schematic, I am adding the Renogy Dc50 to my system also, my question is by wiring directly to the battery and in effect creating a new charge system do I disconnect the old split charge relay or keep it and remove just the leisure side to the relay so the Renogy is instead of the old format. If that makes sense.

image.jpg
 
You need to remove the SCR......

You might need to fit a new larger power feed and ground for the 50A charger and battery.


Can you do a better pic of that page... It's too fuzzy to see.

Maybe do 4x closer pics.
 
If Renogy do ever get back to me, I am also going to ask them about the recommended fuse sizes:

ModelVehicle Input FuseCharger Output Fuse
DCC30S45A40A
DCC50S75A65A

If anyone knows where to source a 45, 65 or 75A fuse I would love to know. I assume the next best alternative is the 5A lower fuses which I can buy, so I will do 40A at both ends for my DCC30S charger.
Morning. Dis you ever get to the bottom of this? Am about to do the same install tomorrow and discovered the same issue - no such thing as a 75A midi fuse so gone for 70A instead. Did you have any issues with 70A?
 
looks like you might have to remove the split charge relay. - and replace with the DC-DC

and pull the fuse for the built in charger? - and replace with a mains smart charger?

are you planning to fit a separate smart charger for when on EHU?
 
Morning. Dis you ever get to the bottom of this? Am about to do the same install tomorrow and discovered the same issue - no such thing as a 75A midi fuse so gone for 70A instead. Did you have any issues with 70A?
Went with 80 amp.
 
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looks like you might have to remove the split charge relay. - and replace with the DC-DC

and pull the fuse for the built in charger? - and replace with a mains smart charger?

are you planning to fit a separate smart charger for when on EHU?
Hi Dell spot on so I’m replacing built in charger with Lifepo4 type, no issue there, the dc dc charger is Renogy, but the split charge relay existing charges fridge while I’m travelling, do I just disconnect connectivity from split charge to battery but keep everything else live.
 
im not sure how everything integrates with that Sargent panel you have. ( I've not had one to setup a test ) ( other people with the Sargent might add some extra info)

ill assume you would move the fridge over to the leisure battery anyway. - as it will powered by the dc-dc charger when driving ( as well as charge the battery)

then fridge runs from LB when parked. ( so no need for the fridge switch over relay)
 
im not sure how everything integrates with that Sargent panel you have. ( I've not had one to setup a test ) ( other people with the Sargent might add some extra info)

ill assume you would move the fridge over to the leisure battery anyway. - as it will powered by the dc-dc charger when driving ( as well as charge the battery)

then fridge runs from LB when parked. ( so no need for the fridge switch over relay)
Thanks Dell fridge on on 240 when parked and gas, no 12v only when travelling.
 
post some pics of the setup, install and batterys so we can see whats what.
 
Hi again everyone, I’ve edited the schematic picture so hope it’s an improvement, so my question is with the existing setup, what charges the LB circuit? And what powers the Sargent unit.
Thanks again. D7468166-4234-45A4-A62A-2E083DE00273.jpeg5E2F111C-0048-4D79-8AE2-FDA681952642.jpeg
 
@raptor

so you have a Renogy Smart Lifepo4 and Renogy DC50 DC-DC.

got a few recent pics of the setup.

battery + dc-dc + Smrt Bat Protect.

++++

are all the loads connected VAN SIDE of the smart battery Protect?

are all CHARGE sources connected to the BATTERY SIDE id the smart battery Protect?

do you have a BM2 voltage logger to see whats going on?

what loads are connected to the 12v system?

how do you monitor the battery?

++++


have a look at the BM2 units


View attachment 121145



have you seen the Renogy BT-2 module and APP . .


to monitor the DC-DC + Battery?




View attachment 121146
I have a similar setup and hoping @Dellmassive can clear up a bit of confusion please on the BT module as you seem to have done a lot of valuable testing on this stuff’

I have a the Renogy DC 30 and a 100Ah smart lithium battery without BT, but have the smart battery monitor screen. I bought the screen thinking it was best to monitor the battery itself rather than the charger, as it will report on current in and out of the battery as well as charge state when it’s not charging.

It looks like the BT module can be connected to the charger or the battery? Is there some advantages to connecting it to the charger please?

Also, with the Renogy DC30 charger is 10mm sq cable between batteries large enough and is there an advantage to upgrading to 16mm sq or even 25mm sq?

Many thanks in advance.
 
I have a similar setup and hoping @Dellmassive can clear up a bit of confusion please on the BT module as you seem to have done a lot of valuable testing on this stuff’

I have a the Renogy DC 30 and a 100Ah smart lithium battery without BT, but have the smart battery monitor screen. I bought the screen thinking it was best to monitor the battery itself rather than the charger, as it will report on current in and out of the battery as well as charge state when it’s not charging.

It looks like the BT module can be connected to the charger or the battery? Is there some advantages to connecting it to the charger please?

Also, with the Renogy DC30 charger is 10mm sq cable between batteries large enough and is there an advantage to upgrading to 16mm sq or even 25mm sq?

Many thanks in advance.
I have the Renogy charger and battery in the van now.

I have a bt2 module connected to both.

The App gets you access.

On the battery you can see all the stats, volts, power in/out etc.

On the charger you get same info again as well as access to the program ING to play with the charge profile and set the current limiter etc.



Eg .


Screenshot_20220812-162731_DC Home.jpgScreenshot_20220812-162718_DC Home.jpgScreenshot_20220812-162713_DC Home.jpgScreenshot_20220812-162700_DC Home.jpgScreenshot_20220812-162650_DC Home.jpg
 
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