Orion Smart 12-12-30A HOT!

@Dellmassive thanks for that, I was thinking of using 2 sensors to monitor each battery independently or wouldn't that work if they were installed in parallel?
I've ordered 2 from Amazon as they're the cheapest and will arrive tomorrow!
I could always add one to the starter battery and keep an eye on that.. it let me down a few weeks ago for no reason whatsoever..thats another story for another day
If you're talking about the BM2 then you can have one on each battery. (One on the parallel LB pair and one on starter)

.....


Smart shunt is just one on the LB parallel pair, and nothing on the starter.
 
@Dellmassive it's the Victron Smart Battery Sense I've ordered, I may just put one on the 2 leisure batteries and the other on the starter battery to keep an eye on it.
Ok.

It's not advised to fit one on the starter battery as vw have there own one on the NEG battery post already. ( On the T6)

I've not seen one fitted on the starter battery .... Though they are rated 500A, they do a 1000A version aswell.

Most people just fit a BM2 monitor on the starter.


Here is an example of a BM2 plot....

Screenshot_20221228_100710_Multi-Batt Mon.jpgScreenshot_20221228_100654_Multi-Batt Mon.jpgScreenshot_20221226_093620_Multi-Batt Mon.jpg


...


I have a BM2 on both the starter and one on the LB. (That keep an eye on the voltages)

And I also have a Victron Smart shunt on the LB.(this keeps am eye on the current and power in and out of the LB./)
 
You’d expect a new Victron DC-DC at some point, the low efficiency (i.e. the cause of the heat) of the current orion unit just doesn’t seem up to their usual standards. It can’t be that hard to make an efficient unit as practically everyone else has managed it!
 
Orion it’s a buck boost, so if your supply cables are undersized, the voltage received has to bo boosted to the charging voltage set. Hence allot of work and heat. Mine used to be 55C and swapped it for a normal victron dc dc convertor. The converter has a potentiometer and you can adjust the output voltage. I don’t need a 3stage dc dc. Set at 13.65v works at about 70% duty, and allot cooler. That means I can leave it on for hrs.
 
I think Raul has a point. I don't claim to be a designer of chargers (I lay them out on semiconductors, not design the Schematics) but turning the input to the batteries down, would reduce the current and heat.
But rereading your original post, you say you removed 1 (reading between the lines) lead acid batt (you don't say it's capacity) and put in 2 x 110Ah batteries. This would suggest the charger is having to push out more current and that means more heat (in simple terms).
 
@Revidnortheast After saying they can be named, I just tried the demo library on the Victron connect app and it won't allow it to be named at all.
I am sure that I named mine, but I don't have that vehicle at home at the moment. I'll check next week.
 
I think Raul has a point. I don't claim to be a designer of chargers (I lay them out on semiconductors, not design the Schematics) but turning the input to the batteries down, would reduce the current and heat.
But rereading your original post, you say you removed 1 (reading between the lines) lead acid batt (you don't say it's capacity) and put in 2 x 110Ah batteries. This would suggest the charger is having to push out more current and that means more heat (in simple terms).
I was just having the same thought. Also this means that the new batteries are no longer under the seat (or at least one of them isn’t near to the charger).
Could the length and cable thickness to the new batteries be causing this heat problem?
 
@Bigsidavies the original battery was a 110Ah standard lead acid, which soon proved to be inadequate so was replaced with the 2 110Ah AGM Leisure batteries, one under the drivers seat, in place of the original and the other under the passenger captain seat. Both connecting + and - cables (I can't remember the size exactly) were at least the thickness of the original cables (I think 8mm²)
 
@Samro the sensors should be delivered today so I'll remove the seats this morning and get the wiring checked over for any loose connections. I'll try and install both sensors and see if they can be named individually, if not its no big deal as I can send one of them back to Amazon.
 
The heat shouldn't be a surprise from the specs on the Orion unit, its efficiency is quoted at only 87% so if 13% is lost (as heat) at its full 360w then that's about 47w, i.e. a similar amount of heat to a 40w traditional lightbulb - and you wouldn't stick your hand on that when it's on!

By contrast, Renogy quotes efficiency up to 97% on their unit and Victron's own solar MPPT convertors quote around 97% too so their DC-DC seems a weird outlier in their range. I can't find efficiencies quoted for my Votronic unit, but it never seems to get remotely warm so I would guess it's around the >95% region too.
 
@Revidnortheast After saying they can be named, I just tried the demo library on the Victron connect app and it won't allow it to be named at all.
I am sure that I named mine, but I don't have that vehicle at home at the moment. I'll check next week.
to rename the Victron Smart shunt. . . . .

open APp and connect to the unit. .

1672393330065.png1672393351120.png

then click the settings cog


1672393371013.png

then product info . . .

1672393389170.png


then edit and save . . .

1672393404532.png



.
 
Orion it’s a buck boost, so if your supply cables are undersized, the voltage received has to bo boosted to the charging voltage set. Hence allot of work and heat. Mine used to be 55C and swapped it for a normal victron dc dc convertor. The converter has a potentiometer and you can adjust the output voltage. I don’t need a 3stage dc dc. Set at 13.65v works at about 70% duty, and allot cooler. That means I can leave it on for hrs.
Thats a good point, . . . ( volt drop)

volt drop over a longer cable run / thinner cable would cause the unit to work harder.

i think we are still waiting for some pics of the install to see what's going on. - ie locations of kit and cables installed.
 
@t0mb0 if the unit had given off the same amount of heat since either the original install or the 2 battery upgrade, I would be so surprised at the heat and smell. The Victron just started to give off the "hot electrics" smell about 2 months after everything had been installed which sort of sent me into a "fire panic"
I'm out on the morning dog walk now and going to take the seats out to check all is normal
 
to rename the Victron Smart shunt. . . . .

open APp and connect to the unit. .

View attachment 183467View attachment 183468

then click the settings cog


View attachment 183469

then product info . . .

View attachment 183470


then edit and save . . .

View attachment 183471



.
That's the Smartshunt. I tried renaming the Smartsense on the my demo library in Vic Connect and had no joy. I'll try it in the flesh when I get to my work van next week, as it's at work!
 
oh Smart Battery Sense . . .

i have this one on the shed system . .

1672398334758.png

1st conect:

1672398352082.png

looks like it needed a FW update . . . .

1672398371791.png


which now adds the preview:

1672398415182.png

and logging features.

1672398432493.png



but the product info page shows the name edit:


1672398467522.png


and the VE Smart Network name ( BT )


1672398494359.png
 
The heat shouldn't be a surprise from the specs on the Orion unit, its efficiency is quoted at only 87% so if 13% is lost (as heat) at its full 360w then that's about 47w, i.e. a similar amount of heat to a 40w traditional lightbulb - and you wouldn't stick your hand on that when it's on!

By contrast, Renogy quotes efficiency up to 97% on their unit and Victron's own solar MPPT convertors quote around 97% too so their DC-DC seems a weird outlier in their range. I can't find efficiencies quoted for my Votronic unit, but it never seems to get remotely warm so I would guess it's around the >95% region too.
Agreed. The Victron Orion is hands down the worst piece of kit I have in my installations, but in fairness to Victron I am unable to install it under my seats in an orientation that meets the criteria detailed in the installation manual!
1672397956427.png

It is impossible to get enough room above the Orion, as this is supposed to be 10cm above and below.

This is mine:
1672397066638.jpeg

So, I broke the rules here and fitted extra cooling fan to compensate. The swivel base above the Orion still gets warm but is a lump, so it helps to dissipate the heat.

The orientation of the inverter and MPPT (under the passenger seat) are incorrect too, but I've had no issues, even with extensive use of the inverter.
1672398752669.jpeg

In order to fit our kit under the seats, we sometimes fit things a little outside of the manufacturer specs. I would suggest that the Orion DC-DC is less suitable to install incorrectly than other products!
 
@Dellmassive thanks for that, I'm just back in from the dog walk so will rip the seats out now and wait for Amazon to work their magic.
@Samro my install looks the same as yours and agreed there seems to be nowhere on a T6 to fit in with the manufacturers install spec so no wonder things get a little heated. I'm going to put some spacers between the cooling fins and backboard. I'll try and remove the board and get some holes in it too to at least get some airflow through to it.
 
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