Just got the seats off and it's all a bit snug in there. Going to get the ply off and get some air holes drilled in
Orion Smart 12-12-30A HOT!
- Thread starter Revidnortheast
- Start date
I know I've got the solar controller right behind where I want to drill a few hols so rather than push any heat through the back of that, I'll put a couple in above where it sits. Think I'll upgrade the solar controller as soon as too.
you can swap that out for a Victron MPPT 75/15 (smartsolar HAS BT)
its a direct swap, works with your setup and uses the same victron APP.
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make sure all those RED battery POS cables are fused as well . .
.
.
you should have one MIDI fuse under the passenger seat,
and THREE MIDI fuses under the drivers seat . . .
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can see from the pic angles if all you cables are fused.
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example:
.
.
you should have one MIDI fuse under the passenger seat,
and THREE MIDI fuses under the drivers seat . . .
++++++++++++
can see from the pic angles if all you cables are fused.
++++++++++++
example:
@Dellmassive that is certainly one of my next steps. It will be great to keep everything under one app that actually works together for best results. I just wish the original conversion guys had felt the same way instead of fitting "make do" parts.
I can see one of them is fused. The new install under the passenger seat isn't due to my ignorance.. it will be fused by the end of tomorrow though .
Thanks so much for pointing that out!
Thanks so much for pointing that out!
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Diagrams, Schematics & Wires -- How I Done It --
Diagrams, Schematics & Wires -- How I Done It -- ************************************************** Dellmassive`s -- "how I Done It" -- Thread ************************************************** Kit List And Stuff -- How I Done It & What I Use --...
yeh, i wasnt sure . .
but BOTH sides of the POS twin battery link cable needs to be FUSED.
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so from what im seeing . .
this needs a 60A or 100A MIDI fuse here, depending of the cable thickness. ( as close to the battery terminal as possible )
on these three, , , ,
im assuming :
one is the battery-battery link - so needs fusing here as well.
one is the ORION output to leisure battery - - so needs fusing here as well.
one is the link down to you smaller circuit fuse box - so needs fusing here as well.
then you also nee to make sure the starter battery connection is fused.
++++++++
#
#
roughly speaking like this, but with the extra battery and double fused link.
this needs a 60A or 100A MIDI fuse here, depending of the cable thickness. ( as close to the battery terminal as possible )
on these three, , , ,
im assuming :
one is the battery-battery link - so needs fusing here as well.
one is the ORION output to leisure battery - - so needs fusing here as well.
one is the link down to you smaller circuit fuse box - so needs fusing here as well.
then you also nee to make sure the starter battery connection is fused.
++++++++
#
#
roughly speaking like this, but with the extra battery and double fused link.
@Dellmassive that's much appreciated, everything is ordered and hopefully here tomorrow sometime. I'll get it all done as got a 4 day trip to the Highlands from Sunday evening
1st stage of cooling started.. drilled 3 22mm holes through the ply to "try" and give a bit of airflow. Used 4 x 10mm spacers to get it off the back of the ply as that would only serve to insulate any heat. Waiting for Amazon to deliver the Victron Smart Battery Sense Voltage and Temperature Sensors and the rest of the goodies arrive tomorrow... gotta love a good tinkering in the van!
Looking good...
That should help a bit with airflow.... Your installing in an open seat base so at least warm air can escape.
While your waiting for your deliveries, have a look over here .......
www.t6forum.com
You might find some bits interesting.
That should help a bit with airflow.... Your installing in an open seat base so at least warm air can escape.
While your waiting for your deliveries, have a look over here .......
Dellmassive’s "How I Done It" blogs.
-- Dellmassive`s -- "How I Done It" -- thread -- ************************************************** Dellmassive`s -- "how I Done It" -- Thread ************************************************** Kit List And Stuff -- How I Done It & What I Use --...
You might find some bits interesting.
Quick question guys.. The Victron Smart Battery Sense Voltage and Temperature Sensors are arriving today. I now know the T6 has a battery monitor already installed so not to add another on the starter battery.
In you opinion would you fit the Victron Smart Battery Sense to each of the leisure batteries (as I ordered 2) OR would you bin that idea and fit a smart shunt, which if I'm right in reading, would give me the Soc in the same way the Smart Battery Sense sensors would anyway?
It's no big deal to return the Smart Battery Sense modules and order the Shunt.
Thanks
In you opinion would you fit the Victron Smart Battery Sense to each of the leisure batteries (as I ordered 2) OR would you bin that idea and fit a smart shunt, which if I'm right in reading, would give me the Soc in the same way the Smart Battery Sense sensors would anyway?
It's no big deal to return the Smart Battery Sense modules and order the Shunt.
Thanks
@Dellmassive thanks for that link... I feel like it's Christmas Day again seeing all of that info
They look like two different things to me? If you just want to know temperature/voltage then those battery sense gizmos will do it. If you want to know state of charge (plus instantaneous current/voltage) with any reliability then you need a shunt based device such as the smart shunt.
As above, they do different jobs.
For me, I went for a BM2 voltage logger on the starter and LB. (For voltage over time data)
Then added a vic' smart shunt on the LB for SOC, voltage and current in / out etc.... Shows you how your dc-dc is charging your battery bank.
And how your loads are draining your LB.... Plus a "time to go" estimate showing how long you can run for.(before needing a recharge)
For me, I went for a BM2 voltage logger on the starter and LB. (For voltage over time data)
Then added a vic' smart shunt on the LB for SOC, voltage and current in / out etc.... Shows you how your dc-dc is charging your battery bank.
And how your loads are draining your LB.... Plus a "time to go" estimate showing how long you can run for.(before needing a recharge)
@t0mb0 and @Dellmassive cheers for the replies. I think I'll keep the battery monitors and finish the rest of the mods when it all arrives tomorrow. Its been an expensive day but I'd rather know what's going on than just simply "hope" it's all going on.
@t0mb0 is spot on.
The battery sense will give you an accurate voltage of each battery and temp. It wont give you an accurate indication of state of charge. For that you'd need a shunt that counts the amps in and out. As @Dellmassive says, the only way is with a Smartshunt and they are excellent value for money.
The idea is that the smart sense's network charging devices such as chargers, including the MPPT. This is important on lithium to prevent charging during freezing conditions, but it is also good to know the temp of you batteries when they are buried under the seats as a hot sealed AGM battery could be an early indication of failure.
I've had AGM batteries (On boats at at work) explode and blow the top off robust battery boxes twice in the last 10 years,
Both have occurred where customers have been careless enough not to recognise that the smell of rotten eggs is a good indicator of a dangerous situation!
Both happened after the customers noted that batteries were low and they consequently placed them on charge.
Despite the high value of the installations, insufficient temperature sensing was installed and the chargers merrily pumped in 30-50 Amps until there was a bang!
Temp sensors should be fitted per battery and not just to one within a bank.
Here is a picture for your interest. This particular battery was part of a bank of 6 two years old on a 1/2 million pound Fairline Motor Yacht!
The battery sense will give you an accurate voltage of each battery and temp. It wont give you an accurate indication of state of charge. For that you'd need a shunt that counts the amps in and out. As @Dellmassive says, the only way is with a Smartshunt and they are excellent value for money.
The idea is that the smart sense's network charging devices such as chargers, including the MPPT. This is important on lithium to prevent charging during freezing conditions, but it is also good to know the temp of you batteries when they are buried under the seats as a hot sealed AGM battery could be an early indication of failure.
I've had AGM batteries (On boats at at work) explode and blow the top off robust battery boxes twice in the last 10 years,
Both have occurred where customers have been careless enough not to recognise that the smell of rotten eggs is a good indicator of a dangerous situation!
Both happened after the customers noted that batteries were low and they consequently placed them on charge.
Despite the high value of the installations, insufficient temperature sensing was installed and the chargers merrily pumped in 30-50 Amps until there was a bang!
Temp sensors should be fitted per battery and not just to one within a bank.
Here is a picture for your interest. This particular battery was part of a bank of 6 two years old on a 1/2 million pound Fairline Motor Yacht!
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I’ve seen the same with boat batteries, that acid goes along way.
Batteries are better off under the van, more beer space.
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