Depends who is using the Hunter, I’ve seen some proper dinlo’s trying to use a Hunter. Also, once a tyre is worn on the edge it will continue to pull even after wheel alignment, can you swap front tyres from left to right?
My T6 is pulling to the left (RHD)
- Thread starter Kevin Mitchell
- Start date
Well I had this on my T6. Took it for a Hunter realign twice. Told it was drag on the tyres. Twaddle I thought. Swapped wheels over much better. I then started to swap them all around until I got the best fit. Drives spot on. Better than it has in my ownership.
wheel swap first.
wheel swap first.
I'll give that a bash this week!
I had the wheels aligned manually at first, once I had installed my coilovers. It pulled to the left straight away, so I returned to the garage to have them look at it again, which they said it was spot on. Not being happy with that I went to a separate garage with a good reputation for track Cars etc, they did the hunter alignment and said it was very close, it was just the rear toe needed adjusted. I have quite a lot of front camber but apparently you can't change this without adjusting the subframe? And funnily enough I have slightly more camber on the front right as to left.
I'm going to try the tire swap though, would be really interesting to see if this makes a difference.
Cheers
Old thread but ours is doing this too!
Hold wheel straight and the van will go left, and quite a bit, so it needs holding to the right slightly to drive straight.
New springs, wheels and tyres.
Had dmf and clutch, the aligned and all in the green? I took it back to the garage they said subframe needed slight adjustment, so they did that then give me the hunter print out - all green. Still does it!
Worse with camber for sure.
Running 20” wheels and 275 35’s. It would be nice to get it driving straight…
Hold wheel straight and the van will go left, and quite a bit, so it needs holding to the right slightly to drive straight.
New springs, wheels and tyres.
Had dmf and clutch, the aligned and all in the green? I took it back to the garage they said subframe needed slight adjustment, so they did that then give me the hunter print out - all green. Still does it!
Worse with camber for sure.
Running 20” wheels and 275 35’s. It would be nice to get it driving straight…
Mine still does it, had all the above done too. Someone mentioned a software update was required, but i've not been to VW to ask them about that.
I'm having similar issues, van pulls to the left, need to pull to keep steering wheel straight otherwise it shifts about 10mm to the left and it steers off into the undergrowth.
Been to two separate wheel alignment places who both say everything is fine, however after reading some of the posts here I will be returning and asking for an unloaded setting test and see what that brings up.
Today's test sheet..
What are the measurements that would indicate a mis-aligned subframe? There are no wheel centre to wheel centre measurements on this printout to compare wheelbase on left vs right (should the Hunter kit have this feature?) and the guy at the garage said the caster would be different if there was any rotation of the subframe (ie if the subframe was rotated anti-clockwise, the left caster would be more upright vs the right)
What are the limits on the Unloaded settings?
Been to two separate wheel alignment places who both say everything is fine, however after reading some of the posts here I will be returning and asking for an unloaded setting test and see what that brings up.
Today's test sheet..
What are the measurements that would indicate a mis-aligned subframe? There are no wheel centre to wheel centre measurements on this printout to compare wheelbase on left vs right (should the Hunter kit have this feature?) and the guy at the garage said the caster would be different if there was any rotation of the subframe (ie if the subframe was rotated anti-clockwise, the left caster would be more upright vs the right)
What are the limits on the Unloaded settings?
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I have a similar sheet to sparkywig from last year (where they also said there was nothing wrong) but the measurements are different to yesterdays (may have had less weight in the van as the 3 rear seats were not fitted)
The front caster and camber limits are different to the Hunter's as are the rear camber and toe limits.
The front caster and camber limits are different to the Hunter's as are the rear camber and toe limits.
It looks like neither tyre shop/garage has made any attempt to correct the thrust angle at the rear wheels by adjusting the rear wheel toe in settings to be the same on left and right. Having recently watched too many Hunter alignment videos trying to understand my Hunter print outs, it seems that sorting the Thrust angle is a critical starting point to sort out before going on to aligning the front wheels.
This video might help understand the Thrust angle relevance -
Cheers
I just made 3 subframe aligning bolts and replaced my front subframe (dsg 4motion upgrade thread)
Subrame was out of line when I pulled it down, but more importantly the front stretch bolts weren’t half as tight as the back set of bolts, I had complained to alignment shop that it pulls and falls into the road camber, even when the camber pitches to the centre,
I also adjust the s/wheel to stay in line, and my readouts are also red on o/s/r wheel.
I have stance+ coilovers, okayish.. 275/40/20’s on et45… which is horrible as the centre of the wheel is over the centre line of the steering pivot line, which adds to it pulling on the crap domed roads in berks.
So i found bits of rubber under my big subframe bolt washers, a noticeable amount at the front two, tells me my subframe is definitely tramping about.
So I would concern about these garages that “adjust” your subframe.. why .. ?
Subframe bolts are 12mm 10.8 strength, the highest bolt metal strength capable, pull them up to 150nm then a full 180’ turn past that…. I used a 2ft breaker and a 3ft tube to pull them up nice, I guarantee those bolts would not do that again …
I’d say thats a good 200-250ft/lb put on those bolts maybe more…
I bet your alignment garages will not retighten your subframe to that capacity, unless you supply new bolts and the tightening sequence..!!?
Bolts are £12 each from vw’s
Here’s the old ones I used with some wheel nuts I turned in lathe and dabbed some braze to secure… they pulled the subframe up nicely and front subframe lined up perfectly, i mean spot on, rears lined up too but the holes in chassis legs seem a couple of mm’s closer, respectively not wrongly..
Subrame was out of line when I pulled it down, but more importantly the front stretch bolts weren’t half as tight as the back set of bolts, I had complained to alignment shop that it pulls and falls into the road camber, even when the camber pitches to the centre,
I also adjust the s/wheel to stay in line, and my readouts are also red on o/s/r wheel.
I have stance+ coilovers, okayish.. 275/40/20’s on et45… which is horrible as the centre of the wheel is over the centre line of the steering pivot line, which adds to it pulling on the crap domed roads in berks.
So i found bits of rubber under my big subframe bolt washers, a noticeable amount at the front two, tells me my subframe is definitely tramping about.
So I would concern about these garages that “adjust” your subframe.. why .. ?
Subframe bolts are 12mm 10.8 strength, the highest bolt metal strength capable, pull them up to 150nm then a full 180’ turn past that…. I used a 2ft breaker and a 3ft tube to pull them up nice, I guarantee those bolts would not do that again …
I’d say thats a good 200-250ft/lb put on those bolts maybe more…
I bet your alignment garages will not retighten your subframe to that capacity, unless you supply new bolts and the tightening sequence..!!?
Bolts are £12 each from vw’s
Here’s the old ones I used with some wheel nuts I turned in lathe and dabbed some braze to secure… they pulled the subframe up nicely and front subframe lined up perfectly, i mean spot on, rears lined up too but the holes in chassis legs seem a couple of mm’s closer, respectively not wrongly..
I upgraded my front suspension arms with T32 bushes as soon as I got it, I am thinking of getting an adjustable control arm bolt set for my rears, so I can eliminate any non adjustable pivots to get it in line.
Will be making sure the thrust axis is spot on for the 4motion driveline…
I just put T32 arb’s on it, new lower front ball joints as passed some miles, then I will be going to get Laser alignment done, not a hunter whatever difference that is (just a make i know) hopefully it will drive better..
www.t6forum.com
Will be making sure the thrust axis is spot on for the 4motion driveline…
I just put T32 arb’s on it, new lower front ball joints as passed some miles, then I will be going to get Laser alignment done, not a hunter whatever difference that is (just a make i know) hopefully it will drive better..
VW T5.1 being upgraded to T6 4motion running gear
Well thats an intersting start here .... just as the title states .... so my 15plate T5.1 has a knackered DSG box, n/s stub axle moves up/down, massive clonk/bang out of park etc ... vibration in high gear at low speed .. swishing sound from a dry n/s diff bearing... I couldn't find the same...
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