Pulls to the left at speed , more so with heavier load
- Thread starter djgriff
- Start date
-
- Tags
- off-centre steering
Ok so both sides are 134cm exactly, so i think i can rule this out. however i did just a message from CRS performance: "The Rake angle is completely wrong and loading the van makes matters worse, We can fix this so don't worry" guess i will be paying them a visit!
Thanks for all the help in diagnosing, didn't realise the rake angle would effect the steering but there you go
It’s wise to upgrade your front lower control arm bushing to T32’s bushes, they are solid and not sectioned out.. massive improvement.
Has your subframe been loosened for any reason..? tracking, dmf change ..? if so probably not tightened enough…new bolts ..?
Both my old n new transporters show no sign of issues when fully loaded, I think they drive better and more planted ….
Has your subframe been loosened for any reason..? tracking, dmf change ..? if so probably not tightened enough…new bolts ..?
Both my old n new transporters show no sign of issues when fully loaded, I think they drive better and more planted ….
Thanks for the insight, I do have a sneaky suspicion it isn’t take related as it’s been there before I loaded it up. Just seem a hell of a lot more visible once loaded up. Currently in the Isle of Skye and driven 600+ miles in the last 2 days.. it definitely gets worse after driving for a little while. Starting to think I will end up changing everything related to the steering system at this point. Did a a break test, went to the left on first push, then straighten up and break again and it breaks in a straight line.. something is very wrong with it
Well I would have a wild guess and say it's subframe bolts, not fully squeezed up,
brake tests have to be performed on a very flat road, otherwise road camber can effect the result, as may well have been proven.
It sounds like mine used to be on the "soft" front subframe bolts.
Before I worked on it, mine had been apart in its 140K life, I found guage marks inside the dsg bellhousing were it had been struggled to remove or refit, so mine had been apart and not torqued enough on front subframe bolts, I was complaining like you about the horrible drive.
My rear fr/subframe bolts were so tight on removal, fronts were soft, putting it together, 2nd time on new subframe bolts, I had fully torqued the rears, 150nm +180'.. they went tight there abouts, fronts were still pulling soft at 150nm + 180', so I kept pulling on my 4ft bar until I felt the same tension apply on both fronts, it is bolt tight and does not "fall" into cambers now. I did drive it once after first install, dsg oil leak made me pull it apart again, but that 1 drive I did, it dragged into the kerb on a certain section of road, those bolts were pulled to spec. settings, felt soft on torquing fronts at spec. so 2nd time I squezzed them more and compressed the subframe bushes good.
These front bolts are fully accessable, I wouldn't go pulling your old ones up as you may cause issues.... buy new ones £12 each and go through torquing them as I did, if you find bits of rubber under big washer, as I did, happy days you should be easy fixed.
Thanks this sounds like it might be the culprit. I will get my local garage to change them. Seems like a cheap first base to try, thanks
To be honest that leaning on the wheel to compensate for the road camber in the picture applies pretty much to all vehicles, even motorbikes will have to lean in against some road crowns, with a combination of sloping ground, sidewinds and more aggressive road surfaces you can be constantly fidgeting with steering input.
The main issue would be where the vehicle shifts it's stance and handling on the road under braking or when fully laden... coil bound rear springs would make the van handle differently with, effectively, a solid rear end.
The main issue would be where the vehicle shifts it's stance and handling on the road under braking or when fully laden... coil bound rear springs would make the van handle differently with, effectively, a solid rear end.
My T6 was exactly the same steering angle to go in a straight line, as is my 6.1 as was the 6.1 loan van I had when in for a service.
Thanks, at least it’s not just me then, puts my mind at ease at least! Appreciated
Had a bird strike last night , poor thing. However knocked out the lower right plastic next to the fog light, nothing bad, but just climbed under to clip back in and noticed I’ve sprung an oil leak on the right side of the sump, one more thing to get fixed when back.. hopefully nothing major
Last edited:
Keep a really regular eye on the oil level in the engine and the size of that slick on the sump and you might be ok, worst case you ignore it and finish the final 550 miles on a recovery truck.
You're not the only one chap, we're all nursing our vans along but realistically you can't ignore stains, oil or otherwise.
You're not the only one chap, we're all nursing our vans along but realistically you can't ignore stains, oil or otherwise.
More likely another case of crankshaft seal failure than a sump leak.
Have a search it’s a common problem.
Yes as long as the sump oil level is maintained and the seal failure isn’t caused by a main bearing cap bolt failure as in very rare cases.
Just be aware that oil contamination of the timing belt could cause belt failure and catastrophic engine damage. If you remove the timing belt top cover you will be able to see if the timing belt is oily or not.
At some point you will need to de-grease and clean before identifying the cause of the leak.
Yes, depends on specific engine type, maybe an induction hose and airbox cover.
Similar threads
