Idle speed randomly increased to 1000 for no apparent reason

osman

Steve O
VIP Member
T6 Guru
Hi my van has suddenly decided to increase idle speed warm (up to temperature )or cold after a a lot of miles and even when first started there is no pattern .. but it’s increased to around 1000 often restarting the engine cures it but not always .
Any ideas ?
 
Sounds like the DPF is regenerating.

If you can measure the voltage at that time (with a cigarette lighter voltage meter) it should be around 15v.

The fans will sometimes run when you switch off too.

Perfectly normal to have a regen.
 
Sounds like the DPF is regenerating.

If you can measure the voltage at that time (with a cigarette lighter voltage meter) it should be around 15v.

The fans will sometimes run when you switch off too.

Perfectly normal to have a regen.
This sounds optimistic ! excuse my ignorance but what is the DPF ? I do have a volt meter so will measure .
The issue has been going on randomly for a few weeks now . Sometimes several days go past and it’s normal then it does it again .. but it’s increasing in regularity (It seems ).
I’ve owned the van for two years and never experienced this before .
 
excuse my ignorance but what is the DPF ?
DPF Regeneration
Every filter, regardless of what it is designed to trap, will have to be cleaned and emptied on a regular basis so that there is space to continue trapping more things. This process of cleaning and emptying a Diesel Particulate Filter is called DPF regeneration.
The soot created by the process of combustion which is collected in the filter is burnt off to make sure that the filter does not become blocked and that it can carry on trapping more soot. The Diesel Particulate Filter needs to be heated to a very high temperature in order to burn off the particles of soot. This can be achieved in one of two ways: active regeneration or passive regeneration.

Passive Regeneration

When you drive for a long time at high speeds, the exhaust reaches very high temperatures. Driving at 70mph or above for a while will heat the exhaust enough to burn off the soot particles which have been trapped by the DPF. But most drivers to not drive at high speeds often enough or for enough time to rely on this passive regeneration to clear the DPF of soot particles.

Active Regeneration

Since many drivers do not use their cars to drive long distances on the motorway on a regular basis, manufacturers had to come up with a different way to clear the DPF of particles. They came up with a system in which active regeneration is activated when the amount of soot gathered in the DPF reaches a certain level. In most cars, this level is set at 45% of the DPF’s total capacity. When the soot gathered reaches this amount, it triggers the process of post combustion fuel injection which increases the temperature of the exhaust. This way, even if the car is not travelling at high speed, the exhaust becomes hot enough to burn off all of the soot which has collected in the DPF.
If the active regeneration process is initiated, but you reach your destination before it has had time to burn off all of the soot, there is a possibility that the DPF warning light will appear on your dashboard. You should be able to clear this partial blockage simply by driving your car faster than 40 mph for roughly a quarter of an hour or so.
 
What @Qnapper said.

The DPF is the diesel particulate filter. It’ll use active regeneration to burn off the soot and you’ll notice an increased idle speed when this is in progress.

If you have a Carista (about £25) you can monitor the soot level with your mobile.
 
I’ve got Carista and it says regeneration is usually not necessary at this soot level but sure enough I can see it going down currently 6.8 grams and stopped going down .. van is still running fast at idle and engine sounding pretty loud !
 
I’ve got Carista and it says regeneration is usually not necessary at this soot level but sure enough I can see it going down currently 6.8 grams and stopped going down .. van is still running fast at idle and engine sounding pretty loud !
Then that's a regen going on. Keep the engine running or go for a normal drive and it will be good after.

Also, do you normally do long or short journeys. Does the engine get up to correct temperature? Many short journeys and not letting the engine complete a DPF cycle will eventually lead to a clogged DPF and lead to other issues.

Monitor the soot levels with Carista and you'll be good :thumbsup:
 
Then that's a regen going on. Keep the engine running or go for a normal drive and it will be good after.

Also, do you normally do long or short journeys. Does the engine get up to correct temperature? Many short journeys and not letting the engine complete a DPF cycle will eventually lead to a clogged DPF and lead to other issues.

Monitor the soot levels with Carista and you'll be good :thumbsup:
I do a mix of short and long journeys .. a fair amount of short journeys but enough fairly long trips 200 mile + to keep things healthy .. engine gets to temp on most trips even the little ones .
Thanks for the advice .
 
DPF Regeneration
Every filter, regardless of what it is designed to trap, will have to be cleaned and emptied on a regular basis so that there is space to continue trapping more things. This process of cleaning and emptying a Diesel Particulate Filter is called DPF regeneration.
The soot created by the process of combustion which is collected in the filter is burnt off to make sure that the filter does not become blocked and that it can carry on trapping more soot. The Diesel Particulate Filter needs to be heated to a very high temperature in order to burn off the particles of soot. This can be achieved in one of two ways: active regeneration or passive regeneration.

Passive Regeneration

When you drive for a long time at high speeds, the exhaust reaches very high temperatures. Driving at 70mph or above for a while will heat the exhaust enough to burn off the soot particles which have been trapped by the DPF. But most drivers to not drive at high speeds often enough or for enough time to rely on this passive regeneration to clear the DPF of soot particles.

Active Regeneration

Since many drivers do not use their cars to drive long distances on the motorway on a regular basis, manufacturers had to come up with a different way to clear the DPF of particles. They came up with a system in which active regeneration is activated when the amount of soot gathered in the DPF reaches a certain level. In most cars, this level is set at 45% of the DPF’s total capacity. When the soot gathered reaches this amount, it triggers the process of post combustion fuel injection which increases the temperature of the exhaust. This way, even if the car is not travelling at high speed, the exhaust becomes hot enough to burn off all of the soot which has collected in the DPF.
If the active regeneration process is initiated, but you reach your destination before it has had time to burn off all of the soot, there is a possibility that the DPF warning light will appear on your dashboard. You should be able to clear this partial blockage simply by driving your car faster than 40 mph for roughly a quarter of an hour or so.
Where did you grab this from? It’s not accurate to how our vans work, which maybe where some previous confusion has come for other members, myself included when i first got my van.

Passive regen is only passive in that the driver isn’t ‘actively’ informed, but the van is ‘actively’ doing the regen. Driving at high speeds will not get to the type of temps needed, so soot levels do not reduce on long journeys ‘passively’.
 
Where did you grab this from? It’s not accurate to how our vans work, which maybe where some previous confusion has come for other members, myself included when i first got my van.

Passive regen is only passive in that the driver isn’t ‘actively’ informed, but the van is ‘actively’ doing the regen. Driving at high speeds will not get to the type of temps needed, so soot levels do not reduce on long journeys ‘passively’.
It is general coverage from internet as member osman asked "but what is the DPF ?"
 
what is the DPF ?
DPF Regen, Yellow light & AdBlue - Whats it all about? -

The DFP light is becoming a more apparent issue with modern diesel vans, unfortunately, it’s a fact of modern diesel life.


View attachment 38995

what is a DPF?

Diesel particulate filters (DPF) are very effective in cutting emissions, trapping even the finest soot particles produced as the engine burns diesel fuel.
Their lifespan is dependent on factors such as fuel quality, driving style, use and oil consumption. The filter uses a catalytic coating containing precious metals. Passive regeneration converts the particulate matter contained in the catalytic converter into CO2. This process takes place at temperatures between 350 and 500°C and can run continuously, particularly if you drive your car mainly on long runs.

View attachment 38996
.

What causes a diesel particulate filter blockage?
Short journeys at low speeds are the prime cause of blocked diesel particulate filters.

This is why van makers often go as far as recommending city-bound short-hop drivers choose a petrol car instead of diesel (and it’s why diesels are something of a rarity in the city car sector).

Other things that are bad for DPFs include poor servicing. A diesel particulate filter on a poorly serviced car may fail sooner than a well maintained one, generally, they should last for at least 100,000 miles.

It’s important you use the right type of oil as well – some oils contain additives that can actually block filters.

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View attachment 38997
.

The best way to maintain a DPF is to make sure it’s fully able to regenerate itself when it’s full of soot (when the warning light appears).

There are two types of regeneration: passive and active.

Passive regeneration
Passive regeneration occurs when the car is running at speed on long motorway journeys which allow the exhaust temperature to increase to a higher level and cleanly burn off the excess soot in the filter.

So it is advised that drivers regularly give their diesel vehicle a good 30 to 50 minute run at sustained speed on a motorway or A-road to help clear the filter.

However, not all drivers do this type of driving regularly – which is why manufacturers have designed an alternative form of regeneration.

Active regeneration
Active regeneration means extra fuel is injected automatically, as part of the vehicle's ECU, when a filter reaches a predetermined limit (normally about 45%) to raise the temperature of the exhaust and burn off the stored soot.

Problems can occur, however, if the journey is too short, as the regeneration process may not complete fully.

If this is the case the warning light will continue to show the filter is still partially blocked.

In which case it should be possible to complete a regeneration cycle and clear the warning light by driving for 10 minutes or so at speeds greater than 40mph.

You will know whether active regeneration is taking place by the following symptoms:

  • Engine note change
  • Cooling fans running
  • A slight increase in fuel consumption
  • Increased idle speed
  • Deactivation of automatic Stop/Start
  • A hot, acrid smell from the exhaust
What do I do if neither active nor passive regeneration work?
If your warning light continues to stay on, turns red, or additional DPF lights come on, do not leave it too long before getting it checked out.

More damage can be caused this way and what could be an inexpensive fix can become something much more expensive.

Some garages can clean blocked DPFs, in a process called forced regeneration.

This usually costs around £100 and, while it’s not a 100% guaranteed fix, it’s usually successful in removing the excess soot and allowing the DPF to work and automatically regenerate again.

It’s a failure to correctly regenerate that is the cause of most diesel particulate filter issues: they become blocked, which increases exhaust emissions, stifles engine performance and sometimes even puts the engine into a restricted ‘limp-home mode’.

On some models the engine may not restart after a number of miles – again, consult your handbook for details.


I make lots of short journeys, how will this affect my DPF?
The particles are trapped on the walls of the DPF, stored and continually disposed of. We call this process 'regeneration'. The DPF system needs the car to be driven at a constant road speed so the regeneration process can be completed successfully. Lots of short journeys, and trips that involve stop/start traffic, may cause the regeneration cycle to be unsuccessful. A single, longer journey may be all that is required for regeneration to be successfully completed.

If your typical driving profile involves short trips in heavy traffic, you may wish to reconsider your choice of car, and may prefer to choose either an electric or hybrid model or one with a small petrol engine instead. - the easy solution to all of this is just to take the van for a long run up the motorway every now and again. Or when the warning light comes on.

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View attachment 38998

what to do now? - here is the official VW word (DPF LIGHT):

Roadside assistance: 0870 333 0475
1) How many warning lights are on?

One: go to step 2

More than one: Please contact roadside assistance on 0870 333 0475

2. Is the fuel low warning light on?
Yes: The light is on. Refuel the vehicle and go to step 3.

No: The light is not on. Go to step 3.

3. Drive at least 60Km/hr @ engine speed between 1800-2500rpm, at least 15 minutes until light goes out. (Automatic; Select Sport) Did the light go out?
Yes: The light did go out. Filter successfully regenerated.

No: Go to step 4.

4. Can you take the vehicle to your closest authorised repairer?
Yes: If you can take your vehicle, drive safely.

No: If you cant take your vehicle, please contact roadside assistance on 0870 333 0475


source: Diesel Particulate Filter Warning Light | Yellow | Volkswagen UK


A static service regen just uses more fuel and takes longer.... it's better to just go for a drive and enjoy the ride =)


Adblue . . . . what is it?


View attachment 38999

One of the latest techniques used to clean up diesel emissions is known as selective catalytic reduction (SCR). A solution of urea in water is used to treat exhaust gases and remove harmful pollutants, including nitrogen oxides (NOx), of which nitrogen dioxide (NO2) is the most harmful.

The fluid used in most vehicles is known as AdBlue, a registered trademark owned by the German Association of the Automobile Industry (VDA), which ensures standards are maintained. The fluid is stored in a tank in the car, but unlike petrol or diesel it is not injected into the engine; instead it is fed into part of the vehicle’s exhaust. A chemical reaction converts the harmful NOx exhaust gases into harmless nitrogen and water.

Is it safe to drive with the AdBlue warning on?

It’s not a major safety issue, but if you don’t top up, you’ll eventually run out of AdBlue and you won’t be able to start the van.

When the warning light first comes on you’ll have plenty of time to refill – so don’t panic. Just make sure you don’t put off topping up. - just fill with the required amount & dont over fill the tank!


Also, remember when filling with AdBlue....

Before you start the engine....

Switch the ignition ON and ** WAIT ** !!!! ........


For 30 or so seconds until the dash MFI registers the new AdBlue amount.

Once the new value/range is shown...
Then you can Start the engine..

This helps with the miss reading AdBlue problem, failure to do this will result in the problem above of the system not reading the refilled amount.


T6 Owners Manual: (Behold the Book Of Knowledge)
T6 Owners Manual

Page 346 people . . . . . .


27-jpg.38920


Adblue related issues are known to bring up the MIL engine light (the money light !)

View attachment 39000

Heres VW office take on this light . . . (Engine emissions light)

1. Does the lamp flash or light permanently?
Permanently: Remove the key for 30 seconds then refit and start the engine. Go to step 2.

Flash: Go to step 2.

2. Is the vehicle vibrating and down on power?
Yes: Contact roadside assistance.

No: Go to step 3.

3. Can you take it to an authorised repairer safely?
Yes: Take caution while driving to an authorised repairer.

No: Please contact roadside assistance on 0870 333 0475


But you can get an idea of the problem yourself by reading the fault codes, you can use VCDS, Carista or others to read the fault codes and google them. Emissions lights can be due to EGU, SCR, Adblue and many other things . . . . . so its a good idea to arm yourself with some back ground knowledge before panicking and hitting the dealers . . . .



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Links for your info:


Car Warning Lights | Volkswagen UK
Diesel Particulate Filter Warning Light | Yellow | Volkswagen UK
Recharge AdBlue Warning Light | Yellow | Volkswagen UK
What Volkswagen Dashboard Lights Mean | Warning Icons & Symbols


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reported VW T6F answers:

@DerekFKS85 (emissions light) Van back. They say it’s an adblue issue but there’s no fault logged, so how do they know?? I’ve to drive it as normal to see if it the light comes on again. If it does it’s going in for a ‘few’ days and they’ll supply a replacement van. Let’s see.

@Neil Nicholls (emissions light) I had a similar issue, and mine was the EGR valve. Mines at nearly 50k, 204 engine, Had the light come up, and Vw assist came out, cleared the fault, but it was back within a week.
The dealer agreed the Egr needed replacing, and had my van in for a week, because they had issues with it !
Picked it up, fault still showed.

@Tony Morris : Just had a similar issue, yellow engine management light illuminated. Carista came up with fault code P154B so contacted VW Assist who have confirmed the problem is a faulty DPF pressure sensor. Due to be replaced tomorrow I'll see if it solves the problem.

@Ashypants : 15560 - EGR Sensor 1 - P046C 00 [108] - Implausible Signal - Intermittent...
Update having been into Sheffield Van Centre - EGR valve - VW are aware but won’t do anything until engine management light comes on.....hmm. - Actuator Stuck - known issue will be fixed with a “software update”



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Carista - How I Done It -
Vcds / Vagcom - How I Done It -
T6 Service Intervals & Inspection, Flexible & Longlife

Dellmassive`s -- "how I Done It" -- Thread

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or this if you’ve got time to kill:
 
more info:





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more info:





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This is where I have seen this text before. Whilst there is a lot of relevant info in there I have a couple of issues with some misleading bits considering our vans specifically.

The passive regen info is incorrect. See my post above.

You do not drive at revs just until the light goes out as far as I am aware. This only gets you back to ~35g of soot (can’t recall actual number) where the regen is not finished. A regen needs to finish at ~6-8g. Can someone clarify exactly when the dash light goes out in this situation?
 
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we managed to catch a full regen . . . :thumbsup:

Results - DPF Regen, Yellow Light & Adblue - Whats It All About? -

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Yes, I saw that.
Was your dpf dash light on during it? The only time I have seen mine is when I trigger a regen through Carista, then the dash light comes on until it is done.
However, on all the ‘passive’ regens I have monitored (which is quite a few), the van does not light the dash, it just does it.

When talking a mate through his regen issues, his dash light went out and he assumed it was done. However, his revs were still at 1000 so I told him it wasn’t. This maybe the route of confusion for a lot of people over this regen issue. But I only have one data point, so not reliable. I also don’t know if software version changes this.
 
most regens just happen in the background. (increased revs + burn smell from DPF + fan over-run)

and happen (on my van) about twice per full tank 1/3 and 2/3 tank levels - i always fill tanks empty to full.

its only a very high build up that will trigger the yellow warning light. . . . this is mostly people that do short city driving that stop the engine during regen so it cant complete the cycle.

then regen will restart at next drive cycle when engine is up to temp . . . then get switched off before completing . etc etc etc.

the yellow lamp then triggers to give the user a chance to change the driving style in an attempt to bring the ash level down a bit before damage occurs to the DPF.

i dont know at what exact point the yellow lamp is triggered? - maybe @mmi has data on that trigger point?
 
i dont know at what exact point the yellow lamp is triggered? - maybe @mmi has data on that trigger point?
Unfortunately never managed accumulate enough soot to trigger the yellow DPF lamp. It would need a serious amount of journeys less than 7 minutes ;)

Anyways, the principles when and what warning lights are triggered can be found in the linked document on page 64. However, the capacity of T6 DPF is significantly larger thus the numbers are different.
 
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