[Guide] Solar Cables? . . . - How I Did It -

Dellmassive

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[Guide] Solar Cables? . . . - How I Did It -

its time for another guide . . . This time on solar cables.

we use these cables for permanent install and for mobile installs.

lets start with the Solar PV MC4-MC4 cable.


Solar PV cable is not actually standard cable . . . its more specialised.

take a look at this cable i got to make up some extension leads:





1624022224456.png


you can see in the spec it states:

  • Ammonia resistance,UV and ozone resistant,pollution and halogen-free ,
  • Good fire-resistant performance, protect against short circuits and ground leakages ;
  • Inner Conductor: Flexible Tinned Copper Wire ;
  • Dielectric: LSZH Halogen Free Copolymer ; LSZH Halogen Free Copolymer (UV Resistant) ;
  • Colour: RED;
  • Storage/Operating Temperature: -40°C to +90°C ;
  • Minimum Installation Temperature: -5°C

This cable has a very wide temp range, from the hottest summer days to the coldest winter deep freezes.

it also has to be UV resistant to stop the sun degrading the sheathing.

The sheathing is made up of two parts, an inner and outer.

the centre metal core is also Tinned copper to help resist corrosion.

The cable comes in various sizes, this example is a 4mm2 / 16 AWG.

+++++++++++++

This is the new cable, 15m of red and 15m of black.



1624022629884.png



you can see the specs printed on the cable for the EN & TUV standards . .


1624022674803.png


stripping the cable back you can see the construction. The RED outer jacket and the Black inner keep the Tinned coper centre away from the elements.


1624022774721.png


making the MC4 cables is a simple process provided you have a few basic tools.

lets take a look at the bench. Here we have the cable, a set of MC4 connectors, a cable stripping tool and a MC4 crimp tool.


1624022912644.png


the MC4 connectors are designed like this . . . again they are specially designed to be waterproof, sun proof, weather proof, windproof and need to interlock with each other, requiring a special tool to be opened.

as you can see they come in male and female locking pairs. . . .

which way round they go depends on the install and where the plug is to be fitted . . . . there is a standard convention that follows the flow of power from the panels down to the controller. (more of that later)

1624023171573.png


lets look at making and end off. . . well start with the red colour cable and a female end.

you will see that the centre crimp pins come in two types, one for the male and one for the female. . . step1 is crimping on the pin so you need to know which pin is for what.

to make it easy for myself i always remember they are opposites . . .

ie

the FAMALE MC4 connector takes the PIN style centre.

the MALE MC4 connector take the HOLE style centre.


so to make a female MC4 end we need the PIN style centre crimp.

++++

First up is to strip about 15-20mm of the outer sheathing. i like this handy stripper as it cuts through the hard shell and leaves a nice clean end. its actually a coax cable stripper but works very well (I've this one for donkeys years).

1624023615627.png
1624023627925.png

this is a similar version . . . deleyCON Stripper For Coaxial Cable Universal for all: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

1624023910925.png


Next up is setting the pin. you can see the cable center goes inside the pin and the tabs will be folded down with the crimper butted up against the sheathing.

1624023992083.png

the centre pin site in the MC4 crimpers like this. . . .

1624024068362.png

once crimped it should look like this . . . .


1624024105273.png

++++

standard crimpers :





1624024530453.png

++++

and the starter kit:





1624024620109.png


++++

next get the rest of the connector and assemble on the cable like this . .


1624024163451.png

the crimped pin now need to be pushed down inside the MC4 connector until it clicks into place, there are small tabs that lock it down there so it cant pull back out.


1624024263522.png



The rubber bung goes down next . . .

1624024466322.png


then the finger ring . . .


1624024685446.png


then the end cap screws on to lock it all together . . . . leaving you with a waterproof, connection.

1624024744202.png

.
 
p2

black

Next up is the Black cable . . .

we start with the 15-20mm outer sheath striping . .

1624028868538.png


this time we are making a MALE end . . . so we need the correct pin.

remember the opposites - so we need the HOLE canter pin . . .

again the strands go inside the connector and the tags butt up against the sheathing.



1624028911018.png


next up crimp the tags down with the MC4 crimper.

here you can see I've double crimped. . .

first crimp was on the largest setting . . . then double crimped on the middle setting for a good tight crimped connection.

1624029042682.png


the connector is assembled like this . .

1624029133536.png



we need to push the crimped end down into the housing until it clicks and locks into place . . . again the pawls will lock it in down there so it can be pulled back out.

1624029202245.png


...



Then slide down the rubber bung . .


1624029238768.png

then the finger ring . . . .


1624029273759.png

and finally the end cap and screw it down tight.

The MC4 tools come in a variety of shapes and colours.

apart from slitting apart a closed connector they are also used for assembling the connectors . .


The Black Renogy version shows an example. :






1624029447772.png


1624029481259.png


these generic blue are good to keep in the tool box. . . .

they are cheap and work very well at assembling the connectors and opening then up once the are clicked together.






1624029569954.png


i also have a set of these metal alloy versions . . . .

they ok but i think i like the Blue ones best . . .



1624029677716.png




...

once you have both ends on they should look like this . .

1624029731026.png



if you are making MC4 extension leads . . .

you need to cut both cables to the required length . . . ie 1,2,5,10,15meters

and then crimp on a opposite connector on the other end.


MC4 Male --> MC4 Female

MC4 Female --> MC4 Male


++++


Because your new MC4 extension cables can be fitted either way around . . . it means that the cable colour at this stage doesn't actually matter.

you could use just black cable for both link leads. . . . and you will see cables sold that way - just black. or red for that matter.

i still prefer to use red and black cable.

i like to use RED for the PV positive from the panel.

and

BLACK for the NEG from the PV panel.




++++
 
Last edited:
p3

Direction

this had me a bit confused at first . . as to what went where.

but once you know the rules it makes sense and is obvious.


The first rule is - always work from the PV panel backward to the controller,

this way you are following the source of the power/voltage and effectively following the current flow.

Imagine the current from the PV panel to be like water flowing down a pipe - the pipe being the PV cable.


we start at the PV panel which will have these set of MC4 conectors . . .


1624085830820.png

The PLUS from the panel is here on the MALE MC4 . . .

1624085875150.png


and the MINUS from the panel is here on the FEMALE MC4 . . . .

1624085906598.png


++++

The idea being that on installed domestic and commercial systems you can have very high array voltages that can be very dangerous. The MALE connector centre conductor is tucked away out of harms way, so there is no chance of accidentality touching it and getting a nasty shock .

The FEMALE MC4 is less protective leaving the center pin more exposed,

+++++

following from the convention above and following the power from the panel, next up is the extension lead . .

we need . .


Panel MC4 Male --> [ Extension MC4 Female --> MC4 Male ]

Panel MC4 Female --> [ Extension MC4 Male --> MC4 Female ]


Here you can see a wide selection of MC4 link cables, again the colour isnt critical . . just the connection format.


1624086416125.png

+++

looking at this example you can see a red and black cable. . . each cable has a male & female end.




1624086524982.png

this is were i like to start using the coloured cables . . . you could mark up the ends that would match up to the Paenel.

1624086617114.png

its the same here with this Renogy set . . .



1624086732382.png

++++


next in the chain is the PV Solar controller . .

this could be under your seat . . . in the back of the van . . . . . velcro onto the back of the panel . . . . in your garage or shed. - it doesn't matter.

all that's important is you follow the standard. . .



Panel MC4 Male --> [ Extension MC4 Female --> MC4 Male ] --> Controller MC4 Female input

Panel MC4 Female --> [ Extension MC4 Male --> MC4 Female ] --> Controller MC4 male input


i like to make up short input leads on all my controllers. . . that enables me to use any panel and cable setup on any controller.

it also allows you to fit branch connectors to add more solar panels in the future. (more on those later)

this is an example of a Renogy PWM controller . .

not that i use a red cable with a FEMALE end on - ready to accept the incoming power flow. (POS)

and a black cable with a MALE end on - ready to accept the incoming power flow. (NEG)

1624087564000.png1624087573627.png1624087582289.png

while were at the controller its worth noting that until this point i use the PV rated cable shown at the top . . .

but at this location i like to use the soft silicone cable.

its much easier to work with,
is very flexible,
is high temp resistant,
feels nices and rubbery
can take high power,
BUT - its softer sheathing means it more fragile and susceptible to physical damage. . . . so i keep these link leads short under 30cm.

i use this 10AWG red/black silicone cable - its perfect.

1624088175814.png1624088195922.png

..




1624088329388.png

1624088352627.png

++

you should end up with this . . .


1624088937453.png

+++

you can now add and remove and combination you want.

without worrying about connecting up something wrong.

++++

NOTE:

Connecting up a panel, controller or battery incorrectly will at least blow a fuse or at worst start a fire and burn you van to the ground.

I like to use differential connections for the PV side (MC4) and Battery side (Anderson) to reduce the risk of a possible miss connection.

Always fuse any connection to a battery. !

Fusing the solar panel is not required in this application (ie below 50V array voltage and 20A), unless you are paralleling up lots of panels.(but that beyond the scope of this guide)


++++
 
Last edited:
As always, excellent information thank you @Dellmassive.

Could you direct me on Amazon to a solar cable MC4 inline fuse for using to connect into a battery generator, in lieu of the battery croc clips, for 'plug and play' purposes please?

Thankyou. :thumbsup:
 
@Ricardo T

you could use this for the battery side as a quick disconnect . .


connect this fused side to the battery.





1624286792657.png


+++


then connect this un-fused side to the solar controller.








1624286856337.png


.
 
Thanks @Dellmassive ...So I have a Ecoflow Delta arriving tomorrow, and wish to connect up my portable Bluefusion solar panels to this to recharge....the Delta comes with an XT60 to MC4 cable for this purpose.....not sure if this will already have the inline fuse attached already...would you expect it to? Cant quite make it out in the picture on Amazon (Although currently unavailable on there so found one elsewhere.)
Thank you :thumbsup:
 
gotcha . . .

you dont need a fuse for the panel . . . . (but can fit one if you want to).

see here for ECOFLOW and Solar panel.


ECOFLOW comes with X60 - MC4 cable in the box.





.
 
Mine arrived like this, do you think I will be able to get the remaining head off so I can replace the plug?
I have emailed Renogy and asked for a replacement lead but guess that could take weeks
78A05A60-ECED-40D5-B7DC-6B3FF917CE7F.jpegB50A6BB1-0CC2-4D4E-931B-9C2FC78AC559.jpeg
 
@Nigel W

it look like the female MC4 connector is damaged. (thats very odd . . was it out the box like that?)

they will just pull apart.

you can fit your own connector on the end,

or get a MC4 cable and cut it up.

or just tape it up with electrical tape as a temp measure. . .


Until you get a replacement from Renogy. . . . (keep us posted)
 
@Nigel W

it look like the female MC4 connector is damaged. (thats very odd . . was it out the box like that?)

they will just pull apart.

you can fit your own connector on the end,

or get a MC4 cable and cut it up.

or just tape it up with electrical tape as a temp measure. . .


Until you get a replacement from Renogy. . . . (keep us posted)
it looked complete until I squeezed the two prongs to separate then it just fell apart. I’m guessing whoever assembled it overnighted, broke it at the top and that just left the clip holding together. I have tried to remove the remaining piece but there is nothing to grip to let me turn it and don’t want to cut it just yet in case they want more pics.
I have opened a ‘case’ with Renology and will keep you updated.
 
Hi @Dellmassive,

Thanks for producing this thread - came at the right time for me! :)

I would like to make up my own cable from battery to solar controller, materials below. Is there any issue over what type of fuse I use? The Renogy inline MC4 version seems more straightforward. What do you think?

Anderson connectors
10 gauge silicone wire (this will be used inside the van only)
20amp inline fuse or Inline blade fuse holder (replacing the 5amp fuse with a 20amp)

Thanks in advance. CZ.

PS. This is to go into the system we previously discussed.
Joining a Renogy 200w folding panel via controller to my existing leisure set up.
 
@czmate1999

- the MC4 fuse is for fusing large solar arrays and is not needed to this application.

the Anderson connectors, fuse holder and fuse look ok.

remember that the Silicone cable has very soft sheathing . . so its good for short link leads . . but not long cable runs.


as an example is have a couple of these. . .




1624470993476.png

  • Ideal for 40W-100W 12V Photonic Universe folding solar charging kits
  • Thick cable to minimise power losses
  • Battery plugs compatible with 50A Anderson plug
  • Can be used for other low voltage applications with current up to 8A



......



with this:




1624471084460.png

..




1624471134668.png




...


maybe look at adding a 20A inline fuse . .




1624471344586.png

.
 
@czmate1999

looks good. . .

though i wouldn't trust those blue crimpers for the 50A Anderson connectors.

you need a good proper crimper for those . . . . . . . .

i like the HS-16 . . . ( you can use them on the red,blue,yellow crimps too . . but not for MC4 )




1624623271289.png



....

Here are my HS-16 crimps on andersons . .


1624623550838.png

1624623556985.png

1624623563684.png





.

++++


i would also look at getting some heat shrink for the cable ends at the Andersons can have a large opening where the cable goes in. ( possible short circuit risk by coming into contact with other cables, connections or devices )

its good practice to insulate the cable / connection as shown above.


+++





1624623726980.png






.
 
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