Fridges & Cold Beer -- How I Done It --

It's really difficult to get a handle on the power consumption on this thread, but I caught a stat of a compressor coolbox, with a jacket, taking only 20Ah over 3 days if left unopened?

So, on a more van-centric note, how do top-loading built-in compressor fridge compare? Do they benefit from being built in for the equivalent of a jacket, or could they?

The sums I'm trying to do, like everyone, is the size of battery vs fridge vs solar. How many watts of energy via solar during the day do I need to give the battery enough to power the compressor fridge all day and all night? and be net zero loss of battery health in the morning?
 
It's really difficult to get a handle on the power consumption on this thread, but I caught a stat of a compressor coolbox, with a jacket, taking only 20Ah over 3 days if left unopened?

So, on a more van-centric note, how do top-loading built-in compressor fridge compare? Do they benefit from being built in for the equivalent of a jacket, or could they?

The sums I'm trying to do, like everyone, is the size of battery vs fridge vs solar. How many watts of energy via solar during the day do I need to give the battery enough to power the compressor fridge all day and all night? and be net zero loss of battery health in the morning?

it depends on how many times you open the fridge, how quickly you go through the contents of the fridge . . . . to then replenish it with warm stuff. How much other loads will be on the battery.

ie LED lights at night. . . USB chargers for phones and tablets etc etc.


***
rough easy calculations . .

note: you can only use half an AGM SLA battery - so 100ah is battery really is only 50ah.

note: 100w of decent mppt solar will give 5/6ah - but only for 6-9hrs of the sunny day.

1- add up all your loads to get a rough idea on power draw. per hour? then average it out over a 24hr period
2 - from above how large a battery do you need to run that for 24hrs? (accounting for the 50% DOD of SLA battery)
3 - now size your solar to replenish the power drawn from bothe the above over 24hrs.
4 - now add safety margins to the above to cover say a cloudy day over a weekend

****


So back to the top question, Rough guess would be:

1x compressor fridge * (6-0.5ah draw) ( average - 18hrs@0.5ah + 6hrs@6ah = 24hrs@45ah total )
1x 100Ah AGM or better battery * . (50% dod = 50ah total)
1x 100-200w solar panel with MPPT charger * (during summer months) (6-12ah charge)
(100w example 6hr@6ah + 3hrs@3ah + 15hrs@0ah = 24hrs @ 45ah total)
(200w example 6hr@12ah + 3hrs@6ah + 15hrs@0ah = 24hrs @ 90ah total)

so you can see that 100w will be pushing it, but with perfect weather it would be self sufficient.

150-300w solar you help the safety margin . .



+++

based roughly around this weekend (two TE fridges plus USB phone chargers and LED lighting) . . .



1616599339177.png

1616599366277.png

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VS


this weekend.. (twin compressor fridges plus USB phone chargers and LED lighting) . . .




1616600123742.png

1616600223491.png

1616600455201.png
 
@Dellmassive , once again very useful. Im in the process of having my van converted and working through my sums. Current plan is to have 100Ah Lifos battery as leisure battery in the van, which will run the fridge plus LED lights (thanks again for your recommendations on lights thread). When off-grid will have a 100w solar panel on the roof connected via Victron MPPT plus will have additional ability to run a mobile (likely the lensun suitcase type) 200w panel set which Im hoping will give me up to 3-4days worth of power (longer term plan to also run a 2nd battery bank as a back-up). My question is what do you find the usual USB charging/LED light set up draws?
 
led lighting strings.. these draw around 0.5 per string . . . 1ah for two strings, 2ah for 4x strings (when on and running)

you can see that here: https://www.t6forum.com/threads/flag-poles-and-fairy-lights-how-i-done-it.21232/post-289549

***

loads on power here over at the full thread:






***

USB chargers. . . are usual 2:1 due to the 50% drop in voltage from 12vdc to 5vdc USB, so 1Amp@12v will give roughly 2A@5v USB. (or 2ah when charging)

we use this style now as we always have loads of USB stuff to keep charged . . .


1616607434638.png



we have one of these too . . .



1616607518329.png
 
led lighting strings.. these draw around 0.5 per string . . . 1ah for two strings, 2ah for 4x strings (when on and running)

you can see that here: https://www.t6forum.com/threads/flag-poles-and-fairy-lights-how-i-done-it.21232/post-289549

***

loads on power here over at the full thread:






***

USB chargers. . . are usual 2:1 due to the 50% drop in voltage from 12vdc to 5vdc USB, so 1Amp@12v will give roughly 2A@5v USB. (or 2ah when charging)

we use this style now as we always have loads of USB stuff to keep charged . . .


View attachment 109721



we have one of these too . . .



View attachment 109722
Thanks, what about this one for similar price: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08J3RW85M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_W1BK6KVXZ5PZ04YWXGA6?psc=1

That's really useful and neat calculations. Sounds like a 100W solar relies on a big battery. I was erring towards 200W and it sounds sensible now.

But how about built-in fridges?
 
That one is epic . . . . . . . !

but also mains powered . . . so you need a 240v supply.

That's really useful and neat calculations. Sounds like a 100W solar relies on a big battery. I was erring towards 200W and it sounds sensible now.
- i think 150w to 300w is the sweet spot . . . . 200w is bang on.



But how about built-in fridges?
- havent got one to test personally . . . . but I'm led to believe they have the same compressor tech as the portable units . . . so power usage should be comparable? (specific unit data to be supplied so we can run the numbers, just like above)
 
The PSU is mains but not the input, will look again.. Yeah, 12V 5A power

- havent got one to test personally . . . . but I'm led to believe they have the same compressor tech as the portable units . . . so power usage should be comparable? (specific unit data to be supplied so we can run the numbers, just like above)
Okay, how about:

Dometic Waeco Coolmatic CB40 Top Loading Compressor Refrigerator

Technical Specifications:
Dimensions:H660 x W300 x D500 mm
Total Capacity:40 Litres
Voltage:12/24 volts DC
Temperature Range:+10°C to -12°C
Power Input:approx. 45 watts

CB40 Refrigerator Current Consumption:0.64 Ah/h at +20°C ambient temperature, 1.01 Ah/h at +32°C ambient temperature, both at +5°C interior temperature
Insulation: PU foam all around

CB40 Refrigerator System:Fully hermetic compressor with integrated control electronics, electronic thermostat, low voltage protection / electronic fuse, automatic reverse pole protection
Material:
Outside: zinc coated sheet steel
Inside: stainless steel
Base: plasticColour:grey/pale grey
Weight:approx. 20.0 kg
 
The PSU is mains but not the input, will look again.. Yeah, 12V 5A power


Okay, how about:

Dometic Waeco Coolmatic CB40 Top Loading Compressor Refrigerator

Technical Specifications:
Dimensions:H660 x W300 x D500 mm
Total Capacity:40 Litres
Voltage:12/24 volts DC
Temperature Range:+10°C to -12°C
Power Input:approx. 45 watts

CB40 Refrigerator Current Consumption:0.64 Ah/h at +20°C ambient temperature, 1.01 Ah/h at +32°C ambient temperature, both at +5°C interior temperature
Insulation: PU foam all around

CB40 Refrigerator System:Fully hermetic compressor with integrated control electronics, electronic thermostat, low voltage protection / electronic fuse, automatic reverse pole protection
Material:
Outside: zinc coated sheet steel
Inside: stainless steel
Base: plasticColour:grey/pale grey
Weight:approx. 20.0 kg


perfect . . . re spin on the numbers . .

Consumption:
0.64 Ah/h at +20°C ambient temperature,
1.01 Ah/h at +32°C ambient temperature


****


So back to the top question, Rough guess would be:

1x compressor fridge * (1-0.5ah draw) ( average - 18hrs@0.5ah + 6hrs@1ah = 24hrs@24ah total )

1x 100Ah AGM or better battery * . (50% dod = 50ah total)
1x 100-200w solar panel with MPPT charger * (during summer months) (6-12ah charge)
(100w example 6hr@6ah + 3hrs@3ah + 15hrs@0ah = 24hrs @ 45ah total)
(200w example 6hr@12ah + 3hrs@6ah + 15hrs@0ah = 24hrs @ 90ah total)

so you can see that 100w will be pushing it, but with perfect weather it would be self sufficient.

150-300w solar you help the safety margin . .



+++

though i think they are exaggerating the numbers there . . .

45w (as stated in the spec above) @ 12v is 3.75A or 3.75ah (w=v*a)

so i think they are quoting the "tick-over" power when the fridge is down to temp of 0.5 - 1.0A /ah. to make things look better.

in real life you will see the 45w draw when the fridge is full cooling mode . . of 3.7ah


+++

so another re spin accounting for the 45w stated would be . . .

1x compressor fridge * (0.5-3.8ah draw) ( average - 18hrs@0.5ah + 6hrs@3.8ah = 24hrs@31.8ah total )

+++


either way it looks to be the same average outcome.

1x compressor fridge
1x 100Ah AGM or better battery
1x 100-200w solar panel with MPPT charger


---
 
Has anyone gone with one of the newer Dometic ones? CFX3 55?

They're expensive and hold price well so surely must be worth it??? (in some way/shape/for??)
 
48L / £900 . . . so thats £18.75 per Ltr as a price comp.


Dometic CFX3 55






About this item
  • The Dometic CFX3 55 is the ultimate powered cool box with impressive cooling
  • Enjoy reliably fresh food and cold drinks thanks to the VMS03 variable-speed compressor cooling tec
  • Its optimised software ensures superior cooling, freezing and energy efficiency
  • The Dometic CFX3 55 cool box features durable and lightweight fender frames to protect the cool bo
  • The strong, spring-loaded aluminium handles make it easy to lift and transport


Product description
This ultimate powered cool box produces seriously impressive cooling, allowing you to bring more of the food and drinks you love wherever you go. Its robust design is built for tough outdoor use. Enjoy efficient cooling and freezing with convenience thanks to a mobile app which puts the control of your Dometic CFX3 at your fingertips. Go further, stay longer, and experience more.

With the Dometic CFX3, you have control of your outdoor experiences like never before. The CFX3 gives you the power to change your state of mind and put your well-being first. On-road, off-road, outback or in the backyard, your ordinary and extraordinary adventures will be fuelled by fresher, safer food, less waste and more confidence, giving you the power to be present in any moment.

You can store an incredible amount of fresh food and drinks in the Dometic CFX3 thanks to the internal compartment design. The CFX3 eliminates the dairy compartment, which means more room for all your favourite foods. Choose how you organise the space with a removable wire divider and enjoy a more even distribution of cool air with the extended evaporator, now on all inner walls of the unit.
  • Generous storage capacity of 48 l
  • Heavy-duty yet lightweight ExoFrame construction with fender frame protected edges and aluminium alloy handles
  • Powerful VMSO3 compressor cooling technology efficiently refrigerates and deep-freezes to –22 °C
  • Easy-to-read High-Resolution Colour Display and soft touch buttons enabling seamless control and monitoring of cool box performance
  • CFX3 App allows temperature control via WiFi or Bluetooth and provides performance history
  • 3-stage dynamic battery protection system prevents dead car battery or allows deep draw on dual batteries
  • Includes removable wire baskets with dividers for optimal storage organisation




1617560971421.png
 
It's a little off topic, but since you are talking about consumption, I have found that the LED tape on a PWM controller seems to use a LOT less power when on 30% PWM, yet the light output does not seem much less.

In practice, this means we always use the lights on 30% PWM for general use, and may just up the cooking area light to full while cooking.

So for 3m total of led strip (rated 3.6W/M) we draw 0.35A on normal (33% PWM) use, and 1.1A on full power.

And on fridges, in the last year our 50L vitrifrigo has ran constantly, there were only a couple of occasions, during the grey/warmish months, when we needed the EHU on, our panel is 160W. During summer camping, the battery was always back up to 100% by lunchtime.
 
It's a little off topic, but since you are talking about consumption, I have found that the LED tape on a PWM controller seems to use a LOT less power when on 30% PWM, yet the light output does not seem much less.

In practice, this means we always use the lights on 30% PWM for general use, and may just up the cooking area light to full while cooking.

So for 3m total of led strip (rated 3.6W/M) we draw 0.35A on normal (33% PWM) use, and 1.1A on full power.

And on fridges, in the last year our 50L vitrifrigo has ran constantly, there were only a couple of occasions, during the grey/warmish months, when we needed the EHU on, our panel is 160W. During summer camping, the battery was always back up to 100% by lunchtime.
nice . .

we have a thread for LED tapes etc as well . . .

have a look here:





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@Dellmassive I know you always give everyone advice on every option which is great info (keep it up if you can ), what are your personal thoughts on this Vs cheaper models (I also know you have one of each )!

I've got both, as you say. . . . and to be honest they perform the same.

i had them both running all over xmas for almost 3months flat out at -22degC - no issues with either.

both run floorlessly 24/7 for 3months.

+++

I like having the "brand name" for bragging rights , and it keeps its re-sell value . . . but that's about it.

you could argue there is a slightly better build quality . . . . that's true, but both still function the same.

+++

so if you can afford a brand name and cant sleep at night without having the supposed best bit of kit - then just get it.

if your on a budget and just want the job done, then get a clone machine, put all the money you have saved into another item . . . . .

at current rates you could get two clone machines for the price of one branded version.

+++
 
I've got both, as you say. . . . and to be honest they perform the same.

i had them both running all over xmas for almost 3months flat out at -22degC - no issues with either.

both run floorlessly 24/7 for 3months.

+++

I like having the "brand name" for bragging rights , and it keeps its re-sell value . . . but that's about it.

you could argue there is a slightly better build quality . . . . that's true, but both still function the same.

+++

so if you can afford a brand name and cant sleep at night without having the supposed best bit of kit - then just get it.

if your on a budget and just want the job done, then get a clone machine, put all the money you have saved into another item . . . . .

at current rates you could get two clone machines for the price of one branded version.

+++

Thank you, it seems you've convinced me and the bran counter that we’ll pick one of the cheaper models.


Now.... which one...
 
I've got both, as you say. . . . and to be honest they perform the same.

i had them both running all over xmas for almost 3months flat out at -22degC - no issues with either.

both run floorlessly 24/7 for 3months.

+++

I like having the "brand name" for bragging rights , and it keeps its re-sell value . . . but that's about it.

you could argue there is a slightly better build quality . . . . that's true, but both still function the same.

+++

so if you can afford a brand name and cant sleep at night without having the supposed best bit of kit - then just get it.

if your on a budget and just want the job done, then get a clone machine, put all the money you have saved into another item . . . . .

at current rates you could get two clone machines for the price of one branded version.

+++
Hi @Dellmassive as far as I can see the Dometic CFX3 has only 1 compartment inside. Is that right? Do any of the other makes have just one compartment? Somehow I think that would make it easier for getting more stuff in. Thanks very much
 
i have the older version . . . . which has a small wall separating the internal volume into two separate sections . .

it looks like they have removed the internal wall to to give you a slightly larger area internally.

this is what you get:

1617727217472.png1617727228626.png1617727268648.png1617727280918.png


have a look here for more info:





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Im almost ready to buy one of these.... unless anyone has anything negative to add???

Alpicool T50

It look to be similar to most other (kitgarten etc) but this has dual zone control so can fridge and freeze at same time.

Alpicool T50.PNG
 
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