P
Phil_G
Guest
For interests sake, could someone reveal whats actually happening behind the scenes when a new battery is 'adapted' please (ie in tech detail)?
Ta
Phil
Ta
Phil
Flat battery
- Thread starter Stripy
- Start date
The battery monitor has in is program a number of profiles to match the different battery types and when a new battery is added the adaption process tells the battery monitor what battery type and capacity has been installed so it selects the correct profile to follow as it measure use and controls the charging accordingly.
My OEM 2nd battery has just completely collapsed 0 volts,
I noticed when my upgraded ICE system, was playing through the rear speakers only (fronts use separate amp wired into 2nd battery)
This will have to be a trip to the VW dealers, OH JOY
I noticed when my upgraded ICE system, was playing through the rear speakers only (fronts use separate amp wired into 2nd battery)
This will have to be a trip to the VW dealers, OH JOY
Van no worky worky this morning, yesterday it was slow to start, took it for a 1hrs run, today barely turned over. Called out VW assist (subb'ed out to AA) who confirm the '17 '67 batch of T6's have dodgy batteries. He jumped it for me and I ran it round to my local VW van centre, which was open !! and the sales guy also confirmed the same. Glad it happened at home rather than camping !
Another Moll EFB+ replaced under warranty
I have had my suspicions about the battery for over a year now [1]. So I bought a little voltmeter to plug into the 12V socket near the gear shift. (Warning: I have two and both read 0.2V low). The (corrected) voltage was around 14.5V while the engine was running and it dropped to between 10.8V and 11.6V almost as soon as I turned off the engine, radio, dash-cam, etc.
Occasionally I charged the battery in the hope that I would always be able to start but the benefit only lasted a day or two. Then in mid-December, I had just returned home from the shops and five minutes later tried leave for the next errand but the battery failed to crank the engine. On the drive, I was able to charge it and I struggled on, charging the battery occasionally over Christmas and the New Year. Then last Tuesday the battery failed to start the engine 10 miles from home so I had no choice but to call VW Roadside Assistance. They sent an AA patrol which arrived 50 minutes later. Having started the engine with a Jump Starter, the AA man checked the battery and advised me to, “Get that (battery) changed as soon as possible”. So I drove straight to the local VW dealer (Marshall, Didcot), thinking that if the van did not start again, it was on their forecourt. The van was booked in for Friday.
On Friday the Moll EFB+ 70Ah battery was replaced with a Varta EFB+ 70Ah. The voltmeter now shows 13.0V - 13.5V while the engine is running and 12.0V - 12.5V when stationary. They also ran a Heath Check while they had the van. The staff at Marshall were very pleasant and helpful and answered all my questions.
Richard.
[1] Trickle charge?
I have had my suspicions about the battery for over a year now [1]. So I bought a little voltmeter to plug into the 12V socket near the gear shift. (Warning: I have two and both read 0.2V low). The (corrected) voltage was around 14.5V while the engine was running and it dropped to between 10.8V and 11.6V almost as soon as I turned off the engine, radio, dash-cam, etc.
Occasionally I charged the battery in the hope that I would always be able to start but the benefit only lasted a day or two. Then in mid-December, I had just returned home from the shops and five minutes later tried leave for the next errand but the battery failed to crank the engine. On the drive, I was able to charge it and I struggled on, charging the battery occasionally over Christmas and the New Year. Then last Tuesday the battery failed to start the engine 10 miles from home so I had no choice but to call VW Roadside Assistance. They sent an AA patrol which arrived 50 minutes later. Having started the engine with a Jump Starter, the AA man checked the battery and advised me to, “Get that (battery) changed as soon as possible”. So I drove straight to the local VW dealer (Marshall, Didcot), thinking that if the van did not start again, it was on their forecourt. The van was booked in for Friday.
On Friday the Moll EFB+ 70Ah battery was replaced with a Varta EFB+ 70Ah. The voltmeter now shows 13.0V - 13.5V while the engine is running and 12.0V - 12.5V when stationary. They also ran a Heath Check while they had the van. The staff at Marshall were very pleasant and helpful and answered all my questions.
Richard.
[1] Trickle charge?
Hi. My t6 battery just went dead and set the alarm off at 7am. Tried jump starting from a donor vehicle, leaving the battery in situ. I tried the +ve to +ve and -ve to bare metal and nothing? Checked the leisure battery and showed empty so charging that from mains but this shouldn’t charge to van battery? Any ideas and can I lock the van manually again (pressing the pillar button) or will that set the alarm off again?
If your vehicle battery is too flat to start the vehicle, and you aren’t charging it, then it will probably do the same thing again.
You jump start a vehicle with jump leads by connecting +ve to +ve and -ve to -ve. Don’t worry about connecting to bare metal.
Pete
You jump start a vehicle with jump leads by connecting +ve to +ve and -ve to -ve. Don’t worry about connecting to bare metal.
Pete
I have just replaced my battery on a 2016. 140 hp. With stop start. Ordered it from tayna battery they have a choice for £100 it’s a AGM the same size as my original. After fitting I reset the clock and auto windows all the rest is ok. I have a battery tester and have been checking it over the last week and it look like it is all running ok. The stop start is working again and voltage is dropping as normal when lifting off throttle.The battery is charging to between 70 and 80 % I think this is normal to allow space to charge more if needed.
I haven’t coded or used a battery reset tool so I will keep monitoring it . I am sure it is better to code if you have the equipment but if not it looks like it should self learn.
I haven’t coded or used a battery reset tool so I will keep monitoring it . I am sure it is better to code if you have the equipment but if not it looks like it should self learn.
that will be a poor connection causing volt drop,
either bad jumper cables or corroded clamps on cable join.
either way . . .
fully charge the starter battery from the mains over night or as long as it takes to fully charge with a decent smart charger.
And NO charging the leisure battery wouldn't reverse charge the starter (some DC-DC chargers have a reverse charge, but its only small current and normally via a solar setup)
Most people have moved over to portable jump-packs instead of jump cables. (see below)
also look at fitting a battery monitor so you can see what's going on and when the battery needs a charge..
more info:
Really helpful links, thanks very much. I like the idea of a wired in trickle charger.
Similar threads
