Want To Add A Second Leisure Battery
- Thread starter Daviesmd
- Start date
Yes but s few points to take into consideration.
Normally 2x (or more) same batteries would be used so that they age and wear equally.
Same battery types and sizes should be used...
It might be worth getting two new batteries and start a fresh.
If the batteries are not next to each other then the interconnect positive cables must be fused at both ends.
The correct gauge cable must be used (and correctly fused)
Normally 2x (or more) same batteries would be used so that they age and wear equally.
Same battery types and sizes should be used...
It might be worth getting two new batteries and start a fresh.
If the batteries are not next to each other then the interconnect positive cables must be fused at both ends.
The correct gauge cable must be used (and correctly fused)
Yes.
The preferred method is to use opposite ends of the battery bank..... so as above you would take the main positive from battery A and main negative from battery B..... though this more applies to larger UPS/Boat/larger battery banks.
If the batteries are next to each other and the interconnected cables are short and decent gauge it wont realy make mu h difference.
The most important thing is over gauge the cable . . . . Fatter the better.
You already have a ctek 20A charge . . . So the assumption would be that the existing feed cable is suitable....
The factory setup comes with a 100A capable cable and down fused to 80A.... you will need to check your feed cables to make sure they can carry a sustained 20A current from the ctek without heating up etc. (When they leisure batteries are low they will easily draw up to the maximum the source can supply.. in your case 20A fron your 20A ctek. Or over 50A in the case of a vsr. Or 40A in the case of my redarc bcdc1240)
Again larger the cable the better..... even if its fused much lower.
The preferred method is to use opposite ends of the battery bank..... so as above you would take the main positive from battery A and main negative from battery B..... though this more applies to larger UPS/Boat/larger battery banks.
If the batteries are next to each other and the interconnected cables are short and decent gauge it wont realy make mu h difference.
The most important thing is over gauge the cable . . . . Fatter the better.
You already have a ctek 20A charge . . . So the assumption would be that the existing feed cable is suitable....
The factory setup comes with a 100A capable cable and down fused to 80A.... you will need to check your feed cables to make sure they can carry a sustained 20A current from the ctek without heating up etc. (When they leisure batteries are low they will easily draw up to the maximum the source can supply.. in your case 20A fron your 20A ctek. Or over 50A in the case of a vsr. Or 40A in the case of my redarc bcdc1240)
Again larger the cable the better..... even if its fused much lower.
Daviesmd
Member
Ok i have some cable left from wiring the solar panel:
Nominal Cross-Section: 4mm2
Rated Temperature: -40~ + 90 Degrees
Rated Rating: DC 1.8kv, AC 0.6/1kv
Rated Current: 25~32A
So will fit a 20a fuse in between the two batteries
id go way larger . . .
maybe just get a wire kit like this . . . https://www.travelvolts.net/product-page/wiring-kit-for-ripca-elogic-el1225
what are your loads on the battery bank?
remember that 20A ctek is just a charging current . . . . . . but if you connect an inverter or other to the battery bank it may draw 20A-100A (which will blow that 20A interconnect fuse)
so your interconnect cable and fuses etc need to be good enough for your total expected load>>>>
ie 12v socket - 10A
led light 1-10A
inverter 1-100A
etc
etc etc
i use 100A cable for the feeds and grounds for the battery bank. . . . . and then use smaller cable for all the outgoing circuits.
more info :
Installing 12v Socket /s - How Its Done -
maybe just get a wire kit like this . . . https://www.travelvolts.net/product-page/wiring-kit-for-ripca-elogic-el1225
what are your loads on the battery bank?
remember that 20A ctek is just a charging current . . . . . . but if you connect an inverter or other to the battery bank it may draw 20A-100A (which will blow that 20A interconnect fuse)
so your interconnect cable and fuses etc need to be good enough for your total expected load>>>>
ie 12v socket - 10A
led light 1-10A
inverter 1-100A
etc
etc etc
i use 100A cable for the feeds and grounds for the battery bank. . . . . and then use smaller cable for all the outgoing circuits.
more info :
Installing 12v Socket /s - How Its Done -
Daviesmd
Member
Daviesmd
Member
Just checked I have 30 amp fuses from the main battery and in between the battery and ctek so will go with a 30 amp rated fuse between batteries?
I don’t have a huge draw - the battery output goes to a fused box and each has its own fuse - max draw will be 25amp across the board before a fuse blows.
Have usb charging and lights mainly
I don’t have a huge draw - the battery output goes to a fused box and each has its own fuse - max draw will be 25amp across the board before a fuse blows.
Have usb charging and lights mainly
No, you are missing the point! You should use 16 mm cable to connect the batteries and fuse at each end with 100 amp fuses. Both batteries can be connected to body earth using 16 mm cable as well. I would also suggest that you consider upgrading the Ctek at some point as it will be a bit under powered for 2 x 100 ah batteries.
Well, they would say that wouldn't they! No, I thought you had 2 x 100 ah batteries in mind. It will be fine for 140 ah. 20% of total battery capacity is the charging current to aim for.
Do you mean 30 amp fuses between the two batteries? or between the starter battery and the leisure battery? If you have 30 amp fuses between the two leisure batteries this is going to seriously limit the loading that you can apply to these batteries.
I have 1 X 140 amp leisure battery, 150 watt solar panel in mybT6 to campervan ( self build)
I've fitted a Sterling Power unit 2 1/2 yrs ago because of the smart alternator/ regenerating brakes ( after advice) as it was early days of the regenerating brakes, smart alternator etc. Never had any of that myself till now!
Working on a couple of hundred quid for the Sterling was way cheaper than a new alternator !!
It works great charging is controlled, no issues , leisure battery runs a week if weather good powering weaco fridge, led interior lights radio occasionally, we tend to go "analogue" on holidays
No issues with van electronics either ( he says fingers crossed)
I've fitted a Sterling Power unit 2 1/2 yrs ago because of the smart alternator/ regenerating brakes ( after advice) as it was early days of the regenerating brakes, smart alternator etc. Never had any of that myself till now!
Working on a couple of hundred quid for the Sterling was way cheaper than a new alternator !!
It works great charging is controlled, no issues , leisure battery runs a week if weather good powering weaco fridge, led interior lights radio occasionally, we tend to go "analogue" on holidays
No issues with van electronics either ( he says fingers crossed)
FYI-
just a rough google image for twin battery . . . (yes i know the batterys are just wired in parrellel and not ballance method, but thats fine)
note the thickness of cables.
the battery positive & negative interconnect is an unfused thick red/black cable
the main body earth is a thick black chassis ground.
any out going circuits need fusing close to the battery.
the main supply cable is thick and needs fusing at both ends of its run.
just a rough google image for twin battery . . . (yes i know the batterys are just wired in parrellel and not ballance method, but thats fine)
note the thickness of cables.
the battery positive & negative interconnect is an unfused thick red/black cable
the main body earth is a thick black chassis ground.
any out going circuits need fusing close to the battery.
the main supply cable is thick and needs fusing at both ends of its run.
Daviesmd
Member
Hi I have it in between the two batteries as I read it needed a fuse between them on site.
The cables are super thick and couldn’t cut it with regular cutters lol. The weakest point at the moment is the 30 amp fuse.
Your right the setup is overkill at the moment with just sub and lights. It this is in prep for a fridge freezer
The cables are super thick and couldn’t cut it with regular cutters lol. The weakest point at the moment is the 30 amp fuse.
Your right the setup is overkill at the moment with just sub and lights. It this is in prep for a fridge freezer
